Outer Limits 4x4 Board

droopypete wrote: I don't know how proficient you are at reversing a trailer,

Ones ability to reverse a trailer is inversely proportional to the quantity of people watching

fool_injected wrote:

droopypete wrote: I don't know how proficient you are at reversing a trailer,

Ones ability to reverse a trailer is inversely proportional to the quantity of people watching

never a truer word was spoken

Its so light I'll just unhitch and walk it backwards

Wheels etc have been removed and its now on jacks ready for some welding.
Things have slowed again, as I've decided to save for a welder.
Even a cheapy is going to be good to have around the place.
Better than paying others, and/or sponging off me mates welders.
Then all I gotta do is learn how to weld.
Got plenty of off cuts to practise on.
Then I'll probably think of heaps of uses for a welder over time.
It'll be an arc welder, as this is all buget will allow.
This is keeping in mind maintainence costs and consumables associated with migs.

christover

Trailer is now known as the Tadpole, ie baby Frog

I can't just sit around waiting for a welder
So I've looked around fer more tasks while waiting.
Have found front half of guards is a bit floppy, so I am in the process of fitting tie down bars that will double as support for guards and also act as a slider to push guards away from obstacles.
pix to come when I get started.

christover

bunnings had one for $100 dont know what their like your doing some top work on that

boner59 wrote:bunnings had one for $100 dont know what their like your doing some top work on that

Thanks.
Yeah I checked those welders out, they would do for my few welding needs, but I only had 100, so nothing left for a mask, gloves, rods etc. So I bought more metal to play with while I wait for pension day.
Altho slow annoys me, its probably good for getting things right.
I do keep learning as I go.

christover

sucks being on the pension big time used mine to fix my zook

boner59 wrote:sucks being on the pension big time used mine to fix my zook

I look on the bright side.
If I break my zook, I don't need to go to work on Monday
Also on cold dark Mondays I get to sleep in these days
All of my money, effort and attention is for the zook, tho the new lady probably deserves some too

But yes, it ain't as easy on a pension as some believe.
christover

Chris

Aldi have a welder for $79.00 (or did last week, usually maintain special prices on these sorts of things) comes with the old style face mask. Then you can save for the auto darkening ones which seem to start around $65-75 (Bunnings, repco etc).

Tadpole is looking good.

DiddyZook wrote:Chris

Aldi have a welder for $79.00 (or did last week, usually maintain special prices on these sorts of things) comes with the old style face mask. Then you can save for the auto darkening ones which seem to start around $65-75 (Bunnings, repco etc).

Tadpole is looking good.

Thanks, will look into that.
Altho I mistrust Bunnings cheap stuff, they do honour the 3 years warrantee.
I assume Aldi warrantee, but I dunno if I can trust them??
Will definately be getting an auto helmet, I ain't fast enuff to use the old style.
I know cheapies can't be as good, but I assume Bunnings wouldn't take the risk of faulty welding masks, I hope .


christover

Just look for Australian Standards logo, record the standard that the helmet meets. The go home and research the standard.

Bad JuJu wrote:Just look for Australian Standards logo, record the standard that the helmet meets. The go home and research the standard.

good idea.
Eyes are important.
I was temporarily blind after a radiator exploded in my face, very scarey, so I know I wanna look after me vision. Thanks for a good idea.

I think I achieved what I set out to.
I removed one of my triangle braces, and replaced it with the slider bar, should spread the load better than tacking it to the side?
christover

I would not recommend an auto helmet. Even in industry (I visit lots of engineering workshops and see lots of professional welders at work) they are uncommon.

The cheap ones are slower to react and have very hit and miss shade ratings.

If you look for one with fast reaction time and AS approval.... I think you will be well over $79.... more like $479

also, in "out of position" work (like 90% of work on a car it seems) it is easy to shield the solar panel from the arc by shadow so the darkening doesn't work.

when you add the greater cost, more to go wrong, poor reliablity of the cheaper ones, lower durability (knock i backwards off your head and risk breaking it) and the dark tinting even when not darkened, they are not always the best solution.

"proper" auto darkening helmets, such as "speedglas" brand, are still hundreds of dollars.

If you are working at a bench all day welding, they are great. under a car, then grabbing a grinder, then smacking your head on a diff, then stepping back and standing on it etc etc.... just get the $18 cigwleld special.... it's all I have had for 11 years... I;m on my second, and have thrown a few lenses at them.

I think I'd like a speedglas when I get a tig though- its a much cleaner process so it will be more suited.

Steve.

I got my Speedglas at a trade day, for a bit over $130.

It has extra sensors at the temples, not just the ones on the forehead so its next to impossible to shade all the sensors from the welding action. It also had the large format viewing window which makes it easier when working in position too.
I had to trim 25mm off the bottom edge as I must have a short head... when looking down/over the top of a job the bottom edge hit on my chest/neck.

Bad JuJu wrote:I got my Speedglas at a trade day, for a bit over $130.

It has extra sensors at the temples, not just the ones on the forehead so its next to impossible to shade all the sensors from the welding action. It also had the large format viewing window which makes it easier when working in position too.
I had to trim 25mm off the bottom edge as I must have a short head... when looking down/over the top of a job the bottom edge hit on my chest/neck.

Thats a great price. Have heard a few good things about speedglas helmets. Those specs sound impressive, but I know nothing myself. But I'll learn

wow - that's a killer price Juju :envy:

Steve.

Decision on which welder to get was taken out of my hands.
Got a nice old stick welder from a mate of Dads for zilch, including hammer and rods.
Aussie made, too, unlike most modern cheapies.
Now I just need to get a helmet and learn how to use it. ;D
Does "Twin Arc" mean anything important ?
And "100% copper wire" ??
christover

Good little budget welder that will last for years yet.
Twinarc refers to the dual circuits. You will notice there are two different poles to screw the electrode cable to. One is for high amperage the other is for low. The scale at the bottom should explain which circuit to use for what amperage/voltage.
Don't try to save money by using chinese rods, they aren't worth the hassle for a learner.
Don't forget to wear a long sleeve shirt and pants.
Have fun.

want33s wrote:Good little budget welder that will last for years yet.
Twinarc refers to the dual circuits. You will notice there are two different poles to screw the electrode cable to. One is for high amperage the other is for low. The scale at the bottom should explain which circuit to use for what amperage/voltage.
Don't try to save money by using chinese rods, they aren't worth the hassle for a learner.
Don't forget to wear a long sleeve shirt and pants.
Have fun.

Thanks, I can't wait to play.
But I better wait fer a helmet first
Which I also hope not to skimp on, I like my eyesight.
christover

Just get a cheap standard type first then save for the auto type later. You get a standard one for the price of a six pack of beer.

just cruizin' wrote:Just get a cheap standard type first then save for the auto type later. You get a standard one for the price of a six pack of beer.

That is still an option.
A 6 pack and take a day off building

But yeah, that may happen, still has to wait till thursday though.

christover

Chris, I have my old auto helmet, the head band is on the fritz but the glass still works fine, you can have it if you want, i also have some rods that have been stored high and dry, if you want you can have them too, (they are satincraft rods that make even crappy welders look good )
Give me a call if you want them (you know my number)
Peter.

droopypete wrote:Chris, I have my old auto helmet, the head band is on the fritz but the glass still works fine, you can have it if you want, i also have some rods that have been stored high and dry, if you want you can have them too, (they are satincraft rods that make even crappy welders look good )
Give me a call if you want them (you know my number)
Peter.

thanks
I have 3 numbers, will try them all.
christover

droopypete wrote:Chris, I have my old auto helmet, the head band is on the fritz but the glass still works fine, you can have it if you want, i also have some rods that have been stored high and dry, if you want you can have them too, (they are satincraft rods that make even crappy welders look good )
Give me a call if you want them (you know my number)
Peter.

Pete is my hero
Thanks to Pete, I now have a good helmet, so its time to learn how to weld.
christover

I'm no qualified welder, the best advice i can give you however is DO NOT LEARN TO WELD ON YOUR TRAILER.

Practice on off cuts, different angles, welding thick gauge to thin gauge etc before even going near your trailer. This way you can blow holes in non important stuff first.

sierrajim wrote:I'm no qualified welder, the best advice i can give you however is DO NOT LEARN TO WELD ON YOUR TRAILER.

Practice on off cuts, different angles, welding thick gauge to thin gauge etc before even going near your trailer. This way you can blow holes in non important stuff first.

Thanks.
I do intend to do it this way.
I have a pile of offcuts to play with of many different sizes.
Its the thin stuff that worries me most.
I've been watchin a few online welding instruction videos, and a few welding tips on web, and searching forums etc.
But practise will be more important than theory.

christover

I was doing better welding (not good just better) on the thin 2mm stuff than the 5mm stuff, which surprised me.

So I checked out the rods packet info, they are only quite thin, and the highest recommended current was 80amps.

I was set to 80 on the small stuff, but I had it on 120 for the thicker stuff.

So I'm guessing that is the reason.

I'm also guessing I may be better off with a thicker rod ( welding rod that is ) for the heavier stuff, like spring hangers to 5mm chassis?

christover

have a read of the welding bible in general 4x4 tech and u may want to PM anvill4x4 i think it is or v8 patrol as his has done plenty.

plenty of info there.

nicbeer wrote:have a read of the welding bible in general 4x4 tech and u may want to PM anvill4x4 i think it is or v8 patrol as his has done plenty.

plenty of info there.

thanx, will do that right now.
I have done a lot of research, watched a few tuition videos, asked a lot of mates and experts.
Still can't weld yet