Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Still frustrated and trying to diagnose this from the lounge over a few bourbons. Im pretty sure the coller isnt sliding all the way on. What is on either side of the coller 2 and 4 high?

Bent selector not letting it engage

Hey Boner do you mean the fork or the rail itself?
What are the symptems of a worn shifter sheet?
Nik

NIK wrote:Hey Boner do you mean the fork or the rail itself?
What are the symptems of a worn shifter sheet?
Nik

check both and you have the symptoms of both

The actual locking collar does it only go one way (can it be installed backwards) are the to collars interchangable?
Nik

I just put 6.5's in my transfer case and had to replace the shifter sheet because mine had pretty much disintegrated. It's easy to do without pulling the case apart and can be done with the case still in the car. My shifter used to pop out of gear completely and be stuck in neutral not sure if thats what your problem with the case is tho

Had a look at my case today, I pulled the stick and checked the condition of the shifter sheet, spring, holder and the shifter itself.
All parts looked good compared to spare parts I had. The shifter holder did have a slight bend in the tab so I bent it back cleaned and regreased everything and put it back together. The slots where the shifter locates in the rails looked ok as well.
No luck still dosnt work.
It dosnt stat in 2wd or 4wd high but locks into 4lo good, so would the problem be in the short fork that engages and disengages the front drive shaft?
Or would it be in the long fork not engaging high range properly?
Now that Ive typed it the 2nd sounds more it.
Nik

NIK wrote:Had a look at my case today, I pulled the stick and checked the condition of the shifter sheet, spring, holder and the shifter itself.
All parts looked good compared to spare parts I had. The shifter holder did have a slight bend in the tab so I bent it back cleaned and regreased everything and put it back together. The slots where the shifter locates in the rails looked ok as well.
No luck still dosnt work.
It dosnt stat in 2wd or 4wd high but locks into 4lo good, so would the problem be in the short fork that engages and disengages the front drive shaft?
Or would it be in the long fork not engaging high range properly?
Now that Ive typed it the 2nd sounds more it.
Nik

Have you got a manual so you can check it out

Yep thats what I was looking at while typing. I think I will pull it down and replace the "middle" section of the case including the shift rails with one of my spares and see how that goes.
Layto I checked out those bearings for you, there is nothing stamped on them.
And for anyone thinking of ordering the 2 extra needle rollers they are about $40 each!!! Should have listened to ya Steve
Nik

NIK wrote: And for anyone thinking of ordering the 2 extra needle rollers they are about $40 each!!! Should have listened to ya Steve
Nik

Or free if you bought the rebuild kit that I did

NIK wrote:Yep thats what I was looking at while typing. I think I will pull it down and replace the "middle" section of the case including the shift rails with one of my spares and see how that goes.
Layto I checked out those bearings for you, there is nothing stamped on them.
And for anyone thinking of ordering the 2 extra needle rollers they are about $40 each!!! Should have listened to ya Steve
Nik

Cheers mate, i know what you mean about the $$$, thats why i was looking to get them somewhere other than suzuki.

Layto....

I checked my spares too.
No part numbers visible.
NSK bearing website doesn't list a needle roller bearing in that size either unfortunately.
http://www.jp.nsk.com/app02/BearingGuid ... g80837.htm

Are you sure your kit came with all 4 needle rollers, 2 for the intermediate shaft and 1 each for the high and low gears?
Nik

does anyone get the "chatter" effect when they blip the throttle? Its like when it decelerates it sort of goes "clak clack clak" and kinda jerks when it slows down/decelerates (if you bounce or drop the accelorator quick enough)... Is it normal?

EDIT: i mean when i low range 1st btw..

Yes I am certain......

Also got the tiny little one for free too (thanks Chris) but it's in the car atm and cbf getting it.

There you go I paid $79US plus postage then $14 for the small output bearing then $80 for the 2 needle rollers!!
Anyone else buying I suggest you check out this local place.
Nik

Dee wrote:does anyone get the "chatter" effect when they blip the throttle? Its like when it decelerates it sort of goes "clak clack clak" and kinda jerks when it slows down/decelerates (if you bounce or drop the accelorator quick enough)... Is it normal?

EDIT: i mean when i low range 1st btw..

i think driving like that will be the quickest way to smashing your gears.

11_evl wrote:

Dee wrote:does anyone get the "chatter" effect when they blip the throttle? Its like when it decelerates it sort of goes "clak clack clak" and kinda jerks when it slows down/decelerates (if you bounce or drop the accelorator quick enough)... Is it normal?

EDIT: i mean when i low range 1st btw..

i think driving like that will be the quickest way to smashing your gears.

even when i just take my foot off the throttle and it decelerates it tends to do it.
I dont drive around making it do it for fun..

Ok, can someone with the formular`s work out what diff ratio I need.

1. Ive got a 1600mpi motor, auto with 2.83 1st gear ratio, 6.4/1 TrailTough transfercase ratio`s and either 35" or 37" rubber. The end result must allow 100 - 110 kph at 4000rpm.

thanks

Be careful going over 100k's... If you break the first layer of the gravity barrier you could take off...

Dee wrote:Be careful going over 100k's... If you break the first layer of the gravity barrier you could take off...

I was wondering when this was going to start again.

Follow the link in my sig and there is a gear calc on our club website.
Nik

Dee wrote:

11_evl wrote:

Dee wrote:does anyone get the "chatter" effect when they blip the throttle? Its like when it decelerates it sort of goes "clak clack clak" and kinda jerks when it slows down/decelerates (if you bounce or drop the accelorator quick enough)... Is it normal?

EDIT: i mean when i low range 1st btw..

i think driving like that will be the quickest way to smashing your gears.

even when i just take my foot off the throttle and it decelerates it tends to do it.
I dont drive around making it do it for fun..

Check ur unis are lined up I had a noise when decellerating and this was it.

GRPABT1 wrote:

Dee wrote:

11_evl wrote:

Dee wrote:does anyone get the "chatter" effect when they blip the throttle? Its like when it decelerates it sort of goes "clak clack clak" and kinda jerks when it slows down/decelerates (if you bounce or drop the accelorator quick enough)... Is it normal?

EDIT: i mean when i low range 1st btw..

i think driving like that will be the quickest way to smashing your gears.

even when i just take my foot off the throttle and it decelerates it tends to do it.
I dont drive around making it do it for fun..

Check ur unis are lined up I had a noise when decellerating and this was it.

Have you checked pinion bearing in the rear diff, mine was making the same noise and turned out to be that. under power there should be no noise, under very light or no power the chatter.

Dee wrote:does anyone get the "chatter" effect when they blip the throttle? Its like when it decelerates it sort of goes "clak clack clak" and kinda jerks when it slows down/decelerates (if you bounce or drop the accelorator quick enough)... Is it normal?

EDIT: i mean when i low range 1st btw..

Yes it is normal an is the effect of lots of reduction and the play in the drivetrain.

Mine does it, normally as I go for the clutch when slow speed maneuvering in 1st low.

80 series cruisers do it really badly.

obviously the sharper your inputs, the worse it will be so smoothness will help, but I don't consider it unusual.

Steve

Bentzook wrote:Ok, can someone with the formular`s work out what diff ratio I need.

1. Ive got a 1600mpi motor, auto with 2.83 1st gear ratio, 6.4/1 TrailTough transfercase ratio`s and either 35" or 37" rubber. The end result must allow 100 - 110 kph at 4000rpm.

thanks

Well if you really want to drive in 1st gear and do 110kmh at 4000rpm then you will need diff ratios around the 1.3 to 1.4 mark.

FINALY got my case in and it stays in high range!
Just some notes awsome low for general stuff maybe even too low in 1st but when it comes to technical rocks etc I still would like lower but hay I like it slow
Road speed with 4.8s and 33s was about 80km/h at 4000rpm so until I change diff gears I,ll be changing cases when Im not out bush.
Also the rock ring, great product vey easy to instal I was worried before I ordered it but its just a matter of bolt it on with longer bolts and some washers in places. Cut a slit in the long arm to slide it over the ring bolt it up then weld to the ring. Bolt the short arm on and weld a brace between it and the ring, very easy no messing with custom mounts
I did however have to trim it to clear the step downs in the floor pan but it wouldnt be nesassery if you had a b/l.
So order up people very impressed over all.
Nik

What was the problem?

I THINK it was something to do with the selector being bent maybe or the case warped (unknown origin but had same symptyms for last owner resulting in new gearsbein destroyed) so I swapped out the whole middle section and it worked
Nik