Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have bought the cal offroad c,v's. The short side fit perfectly but the long side is 5mm longer and the lockers are 1 year old, so what now, i've got a 9'' grinder or 4'' grinder with nice thin cutting wheel, but not happy about using them on heat treated chromo.

Also did not get circlips, what's the go there i've heard of people not running them but that also seem's dodgy to me.

I went for pricing information on the cal's cv's... Its going to be interesting to see how much the quotes are going to be for. They seam to be the best so far, and its one more thing im not going to worry about, as i really cant be bothered pulling the front end down in the bush -

I just want to make the car more reliable, and i really couldnt care if there going to be noisy.

swb gq running 37 claws and std gearing,

Reddo wrote:I went for pricing information on the cal's cv's... Its going to be interesting to see how much the quotes are going to be for. They seam to be the best so far, and its one more thing im not going to worry about, as i really cant be bothered pulling the front end down in the bush -

I just want to make the car more reliable, and i really couldnt care if there going to be noisy.

swb gq running 37 claws and std gearing,

I run 37" mtr's and run yuri reinforced cv's and have not done a cv yet. Have run nissan trials last year and willowglen recently as well as numerous club trips.

Dave

what are the yuri's worth?

CruiserPatrol wrote:

Reddo wrote:I went for pricing information on the cal's cv's... Its going to be interesting to see how much the quotes are going to be for. They seam to be the best so far, and its one more thing im not going to worry about, as i really cant be bothered pulling the front end down in the bush -

I just want to make the car more reliable, and i really couldnt care if there going to be noisy.

swb gq running 37 claws and std gearing,

I run 37" mtr's and run yuri reinforced cv's and have not done a cv yet. Have run nissan trials last year and willowglen recently as well as numerous club trips.

Dave

Did you get new inner axels, or are you still running the std items?

Well i got my first quote, from cal off rd and to me, thats really not that expensive.


Giving it a little thought, can;
1) you get an inner axel made up to run the gu cv's in the gq front end?

2) The only problem with the cal cv is if either one does let go, your sorta farked, because the inner shalfs are would be 30 spline, meaning you couldnt run a std cv on that axel. Which would mean you'd have to carry two whole std units in the truck (both long and short side).

3) Yuri cv's are just a heat treated item with the locking ring (i just asked them via email, if they upgarde the inner axel, but im sure they dont) , which sofens the cv, compensating for the shock loading and making it stronger. This would be a better set up if you busted them, meaning you'd only have to carry a cv, not the whole front end set up.

hmmm what to do.

Reddo wrote:This would be a better set up if you busted them, meaning you'd only have to carry a cv, not the whole front end set up.

Good in theory, but 90% of the time the CV breaks it strips the splines off the end of the inner axle, so you'd want to carry the whole lot anyway.

The long side shafts make great garden stakes.

Wendle wrote:

Reddo wrote:This would be a better set up if you busted them, meaning you'd only have to carry a cv, not the whole front end set up.

Good in theory, but 90% of the time the CV breaks it strips the splines off the end of the inner axle, so you'd want to carry the whole lot anyway.

The long side shafts make great garden stakes.

true

The questions have been asked i will try to answer. First yes I got a new short side just in time for our comp and one shake down run late thursday at a reduced cost (Thanks Cal for your help ). Gearing is as follows 3.9 diff gears and a set off marks reduction gears and turbo 700. Tyres we have down graded from 42's to 40's but they are now stickys. Engine is still the $200 stock V6 that came with a free car. AND YES I DROVE HER HARD IN A COMP THATS WHAT SHE IS BUILT FOR. But mind you after driving and comping stock cv's on 37's for the last 4 years and only ever killing 3 in that time i think i know how to look after them. So if you where there watching you my have noticed that when the time called for some go the steering was allways straight, and if i had to back up it was allways slow. Now i'm still to pull them out but it was noted before stage 4 the they where very noisy and grabing on both sides. The first one that i had to change ( before the comp ) snapped the balls in half and was clicking for bit well before it went. Now when i was putting it away on the monday after the comp one wheel locked up badly so i will be pulling them out for a look very soon. Please note that i'm more than happy still with the Cal cv's They have got me to 8th place at tt and 2nd with Mal last week AND I KNOW THAT WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN IF I RAN STOCK C.V'S

bad mudda wrote:I have bought the cal offroad c,v's. The short side fit perfectly but the long side is 5mm longer and the lockers are 1 year old, so what now, i've got a 9'' grinder or 4'' grinder with nice thin cutting wheel, but not happy about using them on heat treated chromo.

Also did not get circlips, what's the go there i've heard of people not running them but that also seem's dodgy to me.

i too had this problem, but i spoke to cal, and he assured me that using a 4" with 1mm cutting disc would be fine, i did it and no probs that i know of,

just take it nice and easy and it wont get that hot,

ozy1 wrote:

bad mudda wrote:I have bought the cal offroad c,v's. The short side fit perfectly but the long side is 5mm longer and the lockers are 1 year old, so what now, i've got a 9'' grinder or 4'' grinder with nice thin cutting wheel, but not happy about using them on heat treated chromo.

Also did not get circlips, what's the go there i've heard of people not running them but that also seem's dodgy to me.

i too had this problem, but i spoke to cal, and he assured me that using a 4" with 1mm cutting disc would be fine, i did it and no probs that i know of,

just take it nice and easy and it wont get that hot,

So can you send the bit you have to cut off back for a refund? Would at least be $50

WICKED wrote:

ozy1 wrote:

bad mudda wrote:I have bought the cal offroad c,v's. The short side fit perfectly but the long side is 5mm longer and the lockers are 1 year old, so what now, i've got a 9'' grinder or 4'' grinder with nice thin cutting wheel, but not happy about using them on heat treated chromo.

Also did not get circlips, what's the go there i've heard of people not running them but that also seem's dodgy to me.

i too had this problem, but i spoke to cal, and he assured me that using a 4" with 1mm cutting disc would be fine, i did it and no probs that i know of,

just take it nice and easy and it wont get that hot,

So can you send the bit you have to cut off back for a refund? Would at least be $50

It turns out that evan though the lokka is only 1 year old it still has the thrust block in it, so i'll pull the diff out and remove them .

well i got my self a set and man i love em,
never broken one running 37" tyres and i give them hell

tho one is starting to click a little......

bad mudda wrote:It turns out that evan though the lokka is only 1 year old it still has the thrust block in it, so i'll pull the diff out and remove them .

Probably a good idea, wish I had of done it when I was running Nissan axles. I used to have to trim off probably about 1 in 3 stock axles to get them to fit, both short and long sides.

Thought i might clear this one up. AT4 anthony has since found that both cvs are fine. and with the inclusion of steering stops on his front diff, his cvs which he thought were broken are hardly making noises. He flogged his car that hard on boxing day it cooked the auto and motor! Ant is a testimony to how strong these are, and i would be surprised if he busts another soon since he added the steering stops. But if someone is going to bust another it will be anthony! It would seem that oversteering is to blame for the first failure, so yes a very preventable break.
P.S. run if you see Anthony driving at an event it will be awesome!
Mal V.[/quote]

after input from the guys who know!! either run cals or yuri's

what do u guys think?? thinking of getting a set of yuri cv's $780 a pair but will use standard axles?? how easy will axles break??only broken them when cv breaks. or should i just get a full set off cals $1800 i have done a fair bit of reading but am undecided???


this is how we commonly break cv's watch the vid, 35's and front auto lokka. not even giving it to it.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fusea ... d=53237337

thanks aaron

I'm happy with the cal's , before i bought them i broke 3 x cv's within 2 trips, it stung a bit to cough up the cash but they have been pretty well proven in the comp's, so i was happy to pay for a good product.
The best thing is when you really load them up for the first time past what a stocker would do, then load them up a heap more and still nothing breaks .

how easy will axles break?

well my last break was a front axel , the cv itself is still perfect

hi gents

well, i've finally got around to getting these fitted (mate is doing it while im in WA). He fitted up the long side and put the spindal hub back on etc etc, and he's found its about 1mm short of being able to put the circlip on. Has anyone else found this? I suggested placing a bolt in the end of the cv (as i used to do with the toyota) However he has it has no thread.....

Any tips for trying to pull the bugger out??
advise?

Reddo wrote:hi gents

well, i've finally got around to getting these fitted (mate is doing it while im in WA). He fitted up the long side and put the spindal hub back on etc etc, and he's found its about 1mm short of being able to put the circlip on. Has anyone else found this? I suggested placing a bolt in the end of the cv (as i used to do with the toyota) However he has it has no thread.....

Any tips for trying to pull the bugger out??
advise?

Yeah, the Nissan CV's are a finicky fit in that area, especially if you run grease in the knuckle (outside of the CV bell). I actually surface ground the little cone thing behind the circlip about 50 thou to make it less painful. If you've got enough groove exposed to put a small screwdriver in the shaft will usually move out very easily.

well, what a load. latest update, is that we got the long side sorted out, because the brass bush was around the wrong way, long side goes home and fitted up fine, BUT NOW

the short side is 6mm to long, and is stopping the spindal hub from being bolt up. Tried driving it with a hammer and wood and you can here it hitting something on the inside of the diff. the center has a air-locker fitted. Tried spinning the tail shaft around and still wont go home, tried turning the cv around 180 and other variouse distances, and still wont go home,,,,

Both the orginal cv and cal are ex-actually the same length, in splindes, and overall length, so what the fark is stopping it from going home???

Tried ringing cal off rd and all i get is a message bank.

help anyone??

For the money that went over the table, how come everyone is having so many problems fitting them? And to have to cut 6mm of a brand new cv to get it in is a joke. This shit should be plug and play, not cut and booty fab a 1000 dollar cv upgrade. Where on the website is the feedback section.

over it, they can go back if the problem isnt sorted out this week.

Reddo wrote:well, what a load. latest update, is that we got the long side sorted out, because the brass bush was around the wrong way, long side goes home and fitted up fine, BUT NOW

the short side is 6mm to long, and is stopping the spindal hub from being bolt up. Tried driving it with a hammer and wood and you can here it hitting something on the inside of the diff. the center has a air-locker fitted. Tried spinning the tail shaft around and still wont go home, tried turning the cv around 180 and other variouse distances, and still wont go home,,,,

Both the orginal cv and cal are ex-actually the same length, in splindes, and overall length, so what the fark is stopping it from going home???

Tried ringing cal off rd and all i get is a message bank.

help anyone??

For the money that went over the table, how come everyone is having so many problems fitting them? And to have to cut 6mm of a brand new cv to get it in is a joke. This shit should be plug and play, not cut and booty fab a 1000 dollar cv upgrade. Where on the website is the feedback section.

over it, they can go back if the problem isnt sorted out this week.

If your orginal CV and the Cal CV are the same length then it shouldn't need triming. I've had this problem before with stock CVs and all I did was jack the other side up and got a mate to wiggle the other wheel and it went straight in.

Cheers Mick.

Reddo wrote:well, what a load. latest update, is that we got the long side sorted out, because the brass bush was around the wrong way, long side goes home and fitted up fine, BUT NOW

the short side is 6mm to long, and is stopping the spindal hub from being bolt up. Tried driving it with a hammer and wood and you can here it hitting something on the inside of the diff. the center has a air-locker fitted. Tried spinning the tail shaft around and still wont go home, tried turning the cv around 180 and other variouse distances, and still wont go home,,,,

Both the orginal cv and cal are ex-actually the same length, in splindes, and overall length, so what the fark is stopping it from going home???

Tried ringing cal off rd and all i get is a message bank.

help anyone??

For the money that went over the table, how come everyone is having so many problems fitting them? And to have to cut 6mm of a brand new cv to get it in is a joke. This shit should be plug and play, not cut and booty fab a 1000 dollar cv upgrade. Where on the website is the feedback section.

over it, they can go back if the problem isnt sorted out this week.

Go to page 4 on this thread.

i believe the arb airlockers have a small block in the centre which causes the issue
when i transfered my locker into the troll i was given a heads up about this, so i had the block removed and have never had a drama. put plenty of load on it numerous times. cv's in & out a few times for axle maintance

PROBLEM ISSSS DUMMPADDARRR

I have an older locker and i need to take the thrust washer out so I'll have to take the center out and then find some information on how to remove this washer from the diff center.


So, cal said that;
1) There are number of diffrent lengths throughout the GQ series, and the cals are made to fit the longest
2) If your locker is more than 2 years old, you have to remove the washer, as the cal's are made to fit the newer arb locker, not the older type. Arb removed the washer in there newer lockers
3) They are now looking to supply this information and adding it to the box your cvs come in..
4) I have to talk to ARB to get this information on how to remove this washer..... Apparently its very easy to do..
5) I can cut it but he advised against it, but stressed to keep the axel cool


Well, there you go, its going to be a bit painful, but at least there is some light at the end of the tunnel.


So at least some more dots are connected in relation to fitting the cals cvs to the GQ....

Thanks for the above advise guys, i was woken up mid sleep with this problem and im very crook with a cold, so i wasnt in the best of moods when i posted up.

Thanks

Jimmy

Good luck with it mate. I'm sure it will be worth it in the end.

Cheers Mick.

I still reckon GU front end with a spare short n long straped down in the bach all with manual hubs (and a spare on of them too) is as gooda option as any

Having said that, that's coming from someone on a budget who,likes spairs easily accesable, last thing i want is to break a cv or shaft and have to wait a week for a replacement.

well got a call back from ARB, nice guys actually..

After talking to them, he had heard about the problem, and after asking the Tech floor gents, who assemble/build the lockers, they said that i could just drive the trust bush out of the center of the locker.

Now to me that works until we started talking some more....

1) The trust bush supports the airlocker pins, and if you knock it out, you run the risk of the pins falling out/becoming bent, rendering the locker busted and smashed... you only re-lie on the new cal cvs to do the job of the trust washer, and preventing this from happening.. I wonder if ARB will replace the locker if it goes bang this way, after advising me to remove the trust washer..

2) Cut the axel, which may be an option, however, i was worried that if i cut it, and fucked the temper of the steel, and later on down the track busted my cut axel, would cal cover it, as they have done before.

3) If i decide to cut it down, im going to take it to Jack Mac in victoria and get it turned down properly. Dunno what i'd do with the bill..

4) What i decided to do is drive out the trust washer, and then see how big it is. If there is plenty of meat on it, i'll take off between 4 and 6mm and reinsert it into the locker. The locker was built to have the trust block in there, so i'll look to keep it.

so there you go, all questions answered and some information given..

My father talked to a guy tonight about it, and he said they just cut them when putting them in..

cheers mick, been a headach to say the least lol

But she'll be! and there ya go.. Im off to work

A few things.

just pull the bloody thrust block out mate, you are worrying about nothing.

if you dont want to do that cut the axle down on a band saw or cold saw and bash em in.

If you had of discussed it with cal when you bought them he would of told you this and if you didnt want to pull the thrust block out they could of cut the axles for you.

no i am not affiliated with Cal off road at all. There just seems to be alot of wingeing, that is really about minor issues.

IMO i think this is a storm in a tea cup

get over it

uzdnabuzd wrote:A few things.

just pull the bloody thrust block out mate, you are worrying about nothing.

if you dont want to do that cut the axle down on a band saw or cold saw and bash em in.

If you had of discussed it with cal when you bought them he would of told you this and if you didnt want to pull the thrust block out they could of cut the axles for you.

no i am not affiliated with Cal off road at all. There just seems to be alot of wingeing, that is really about minor issues.

IMO i think this is a storm in a tea cup

get over it

oh really, you think so do you.. well done..

No its not a storm in a tea cup, its an explanation of the troubles I have encountered and the explanations to why they happened...

This makes other aware of the problems before they start installing them, and get the job done in one go. What if i was paying a professional to install them? How much would i be set back? Not everyone had access to there car every night, I have a different situation to a lot of owners, so i have to pay to get the work done, I fly home and i get a week to use my car, and enjoy it.

Be aware i purchased these in January, and only just got around to getting these fitted within the in the last couple week, so i only just found this information out, so how about you keep your hand off the key board..

At the time, this information was not around, and there still isnt any information listed on the cal off rd web site regarding the fact i had to drive the trust washer out..

Cal have only just started putting the information about this into the cal off rd box. Should of called them, why?? As far as i knew when i purchased the Items, i didn't know i might have had to do any of the above. I corresponded with them via email, and there was no questions asked to how old my locker was or is...

Only after i had problems this week did i come back to this thread and find the answers, and you want to pay me out for double checking with the manufactures of the product of what to do.

Did you read the above, cal didnt recommend me to cutting the axle down..
Arb said the trust washer can be removed, but at the cost of the pins failing. How awsome is that, i have fully sick tuff cv's, but my center just went bang in the bush.

I know how to cut down a CV if i want to, and since its my money to throw away on the above items, and the intial outlay, I'll ensure i get it done properly, not a booty fab job with my 9 inch grinder... and attack them like a bull at a gate. I'm not just thinking short term with the cvs, im also thinking long term,and if i cut them down, and lets say further down the track i want to sell them? Will i encounter problems from the potential buyer, who knows.

I'm not having a go at anyone who has done this, not at all, I just want to see if there is a better way of fitting the cals, and keeping the trust washer in there, and not having to cut my axles down.

If i need to get them cut down, and Jac-mac cant do it, i'll seek to send the short side back and get the proper item.

Since i bought the product i have earnt the right to express my feedback and frustrations back to others who might be looking to buy them, and hopefully saving them some time, and or offering an alternative option to take.

I have no doubts they will be a fantastic item, and do the job I want them to do. But it has to be said Hind-site is a wonderful thing, and if i knew what i know now, i would of done it differently, but a few of us had to find out the hard way.


Jimmy