Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Side View


Top View


Passenger Side Underneath (with sensor)


Drivers Side Underneath (with heater hose)

Nice work there Bluesuzy. How is the access to the bolts that secure youre right hand bend to the heads, easy or pita?

Nicbeer yeh i chopped the shite out of the loom, i cut all the wires off as long as i could get them up to each of the plugs, as im going to extend them and use one or two waterproof plugs at the firewall.
Im mounting my ecu on the firewall behind the glovebox, it sits right behind the big tube crossbrace that goes east west under dash. Its as high as i can be bothered getting it. In the event of very deep water, ill have my winchbitch ready with some sidecutters to cut the cableties securing ecu to firewall, then remove the plugs and she's out of the water.

Ha Ha yeah the bolts in the flange, into the head were worked out accordingly

Just enough radius in the pipe to put a bolt in the hole, and screws in by hand till the flange, then tighten with a spanner..

My wiring was a mess too...But in the car everyone comments how neat the wiring is! One harness on the firewall, Goes into the little hole top corner on the passenger side.

My ECU bolts up on sum flat pannel behind the glovebox.

Finished adapter plate, sprayed it with first handy can of spraypaint.

ooooooooh shnazzy aqua!
Looks hot!

Pity its in a spot where u wont see it much!

I had to burr bit the starter motor hole abit cos of my inaccurate grinding I used the 1.3 stater machined down also.

What u plan on using pj?

I will propably use the 1.6 starter, or the 1.3, whatever fits the best.

What airbox did you use by the way? I was gonna fab one up using a commodore paper panel filter as you can get em anywhere and theyre cheap, but that looks like it does the job great!

I am using the 1L airbox, But using the filter element the opposite way because of how i have it positioned.

Seems to drive fine with it, Havent tested it with out it but.

It maybe restricting the airflow alittle..Or so i have beem told..

Hmm might still make my own box methinks.

BTW is there any consensus on how far the engine mount needs to be moved and in what direction?

Guys, ive cut off all the old tank mounts to fit the vitara tank, and also cut off the shock crossmember as i found the tank hit it too. Ive placed the tank up where im going to mount it, and it looks mighty close to the diff, so im worried. I have the tank butted up against the tube at the back of the chassis, and the seams on the tank with the mounting holes are about 10mm away from the underside of chassis. Did anyone else mount it there and did the diff seem close?
I reckon if i grind off a tab on the diff pumpkin, there will be about 2" maybe more between the tank and diff, its a bit hard to guestimate. I took photos, but left the bloody camera at work.

I've only ever done it with 2" bumpstop spacers, and there's always been heaps of room.

Steve.

Did you put the spacers in because of the diff hitting the tank, or were the spacers fitted for an unrelated reason?

Here is some pics of how close it is, it is a bit hard to see cos of the angles though, it looks a little closer than it is i think in the pictures.

Small update to my install, ive finished the mounting brackets and new shock crossmember, just have to weld it in.

Also fitted the engine into place, now i know engine sits 25mm too far back on RHS mount i will make up another mount to make it fit correctly... that or my usual method of hammering it till it till the holes line up.

Also about halfway through the wiring, looks a little messy right about now.

Not that anyone would be interested, but i was having clearance problems with tank because as i found in tassie when filling up for first time, its a bloody LWB tank. Ah well, now i have just under 70litres capacity. But as i found out when accidentally getting SERIOUS air on the beach on a washout i didnt see when coming the opposite way, the tank doesnt clear the diff, but i only hit the sealing flange and bent it up about an inch, tank doesnt leak at all so its all still good.
My crossmember held up fine and i didnt bottom out the shocks, but i made a nice big dent in the bottom of the bumpstop on chassis it landed that hard.
Had to come home early anyway as it was falling apart around me.

Falling apart? jeez.

Hows yours going pj?

oops

Yeh it runs, but doesnt move. Utilised the computers thermo function too, now runs a thermo fan, works great. There is a bit of a tapping sound in the engine though that im a little worried about, i think the bellyfull of water it copped didnt do it any favours.
Yours still running?

Yeah mine has a tapping noise too like a diesel somtimes...

Still going strong, although overheated other day cos radiator rusted out and blew top housing

But then after that with no dramas, other then replacing radiator after a 50min round trip overheating..Still going strong.

Need to hook up my powersteering wire too to the ecu, still in engine harness sumwhere. Just a idle up thing i think. Yet to make up a plate diagram for the vit steering..And to be engineered.

Great info!

I am pulling a 2000 baleno 1.6 engine now to put in my new project.
Got a deal with the wrecker so i could pull the engine myself before they pick it up from the salvager.

I see that you are making your own adapters.
I am getting a local machine shop to make these in a CNC lasercutter from my CAD drawing. This does not cost so much so with a bunch of guys getting together and bying at the same time, it costs us less than 100 aussie dollars each. Picture below:
http://www.offroad.no/forum/post-a27808 ... pter02.jpg
We just drill the M10 in the gearbox and rethread up to M12 cause those bolts are easy to find.

I see that some of you is allready on the road with your cars and i have som questions:
- VSS do you use the older swift sensor with any success?

My car has the second HOS, it is obd2. Do I need the second sensor to make it run ok, or is it just for diagnose of the cat (wich is not being tramsplanted)?

-my engine is the WU-TWC wich means it has the special heated three way cat. Does this make things more difficult?

Older swift VSS should be fine.

You'll get a check engine light if you delete the second 02 sensor.

Steve.

if its a baleno motor with dizzy you can use early vss, if it has igniter packs use either baleno or jimny vss. the second sensor is only for the cat and has its own light, just don't hook them up if you don't want, the ecu check engine light won't come on.

I have used an early VSS in a coil pack baleno without an issue, however, in this instance it's not controlling shifting as the car runs a trimatic.

Steve.

Thanks for the replies!

I'll try to source the swift VSS anyways and try i guess..
My engine has the Coil on plug with no dizzy and the electronic speedo and the VSS in the gearbox. So how can i use the baleno VSS?

What does the ECU do with the VSS signal?
adjust the ignition and fuel mix for highway driving?
If so, I guess it will just get worse gas milage without it?

Cut the last pieces of the loom out tonight. Just have to make sure I got it all before I return the donor to the wrecker.
Will not put the engine in a car for while as that car is still a heap of parts..

I ran without the vss sensor for 3 months and i was getting about 250k's a tank... So i installed one out of a vitara, Still same 250Kms a tank (perfect dint-less tank)

Has to be worked out with the 33's though..Not to worry.

My tank is only half the size now! Oops!

The Baleno vss is in the gearbox. Correct.
The Baleno speedo is electronic.

So you need a swift(i couldnt find 1 out of 10!) Or any vitara vss, Pull it out of the speedo cluster as these cars run cable speedo.

Also grab the baleno cluster if allowed! I have the Baleno Tacho in mine + The speedo..

The tacho will be needed for your model motor as it has different internals. The Sierra tacho wont work.
Installing is as easy as power, earth and tacho signal!

Unless you go aftermarket.

If i connect the original sierra tach to both of the baleno coils + terminal it will get the correct amount of signals pr rev. i guess.. Have to isolate the coils with diodes of course so they do not interfere with eachother. (no, not LEDs, diodes )

might just work?

Many have tried.. No go.

Wiring possible pinout.

This info is with respect to terminal arrangement of ECM (PCM) coupler when viewed from harness side looking at computer.
There are three connectors / looms connecting to the ECM each of which is a different size so you can't mix them up.

The left-hand one has 26 wires and is referred to as connector A with pins A1 through to A26.

A1 is at the top left going along the top row to A13 then to the bottom row directly below A1 is A14 then along the bottom row to A26.

B1 through to B16 on the second (Middle) connector.
B1 is at the top left going along the top row to B8 then to the bottom row directly below B1 is B9 then along the bottom row to B16.

C1 to C22 on the last (Right hand) connector.
C1 is at the top left going along the top row to C11 then to the bottom row directly below C1 is C12 then along the bottom row to C22.

Now to explain the function of each connection.
I have included the colour of the first few wires on each connector so you can tell you have the orientation correct.

A1 - Diagnosis switch terminal - (V/Y)
A2 - Test Switch Terminal - (V/W)
A3 - DLC
A4 - Duty Output Terminal
A5 - Tachometer
A6 - Main Relay
A7 - Check Engine Lamp
A8 - A/C Cut signal for A/C Amplifier (if equipped)
A9 - A/C Condenser Fan control relay (if equipped)
A10 - Blank
A11 - Power Source (for sensors)
A12 - ECM (PCM) Ground
A13 - Power Source
A14 - A/C on signal from A/C amplifier (if equipped)
A15 - Blank
A16 - Electric load signal for position lamp and rear window defogger switch
A17 - Electrical load signal for blower fan motor
A18 - Engine coolant temperature signal to TCM (4AT only)
A19 - Throttle valve opening signal to TCM (4AT only)
A20 - Ignition Switch
A21 - Radiator fan control relay
A22 - IAC Valve
A23 - CO Adjusting resistor (if equipped)
A24 - Ground for CO adjusting resistor (if equipped)
A25 - Power for back up
A26 - Power source


B1- Ignition coil assembly for No.1 and No.4 cylinder - (Br/Y)
B2 - Fuel pump relay - (Y/Bl)
B3 - Direct Clutch solenoid (3AT only)
B4 - 2nd brake solenoid (3AT only)
B5 - EGR Valve (Stepper motor coil 1) (If equipped)
B6 - EGR Valve (Stepper moor coil 3) (If equipped)
B7 - No.1 injector
B8 - No.2 injector
B9 - Ignition coil assembly for No.2 and No.3 cylinder
B10 - Blank
B11 - Heated oxygen sensor heater (HO2S Heater) (If equipped)
B12 - EVAP Canister purge valve (If equipped)
B13 - EGR Valve (Stepper motor coil 2) (If equipped)
B14 - EGR Valve (Stepper motor coil 4) (If equipped)
B15 - No.3 injector
B16 - No.4 injector

C1 - Ground - (B/O)
C2 - "2" range signal (3AT Only) - (Y)
C3 - "N" range signal (3AT Only) / Torque reduction signal from TCM (4AT Only)
C4 - "P" range signal (#AT Only)
C5 - Engine start switch
C6 - ECT Sensor
C7 - TP Sensor
C8 - MAP Sensor
C9 - VSS (+) (3AT Only) / VSS (M/T and 4AT Only)
C10 - CKP Sensor (+) (without immobiliser) / CMP sensor (with immobiliser)
C11 - CMP Sensor (without immobiliser) / CKP Sensor (+) (with immobiliser)
C12 - Ground
C13 - "L" range signal (3AT Only)
C14 - "D" range signal (3AT Only) / "R", "D", "2", or "L" range switch from TCM (4AT Only)
C15 - "R" range signal (3AT Only)
C16 - power steering pressure switch
C17 - Sensor Ground
C18 - IAT Sensor
C19 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) (If equipped) - (W)
C20 - VSS (-) (3AT Only)
C21 - CKP Sensor (-) (without immobiliser) / Blank (with immobiliser)
C22 - Blank (without immobiliser) / CKP Sensor (-) (with immobiliser)
Hook the signal wire of your fuel mixture display to C19 which is a white wire.
For a kill switch you can use the fuel pump relay output at B2
PLEASE READ!!!
Be sure to disconnect your car battery before removing connectors from the computer.
Be sure to disconnect connectors from the ECM before adding to or altering the ECM wiring.
Never install a voltmeter or Ohmmeter into the ECM connector’s terminals when the ECM is installed. (Disconnect ECM first)
Never touch inputs / contacts of the ECM with your fingers.

Basically I am trying to say the computer / ECM is a very sensitive and expensive item... If you are not sure about it don't touch... they are susceptible to ESD electro static discharge.

G'day

I could not access the clubaleno site but I found the manuals by going to:

http://clubaleno.co.uk/manuals/Service_ ... anual%201/

Download these 2 files to work out what you need:
http://clubaleno.co.uk/manuals/Service_ ... toFind.pdf

http://clubaleno.co.uk/manuals/Service_ ... 20List.pdf

If the site is gone I don't know how much longer these files will be available.

Regards

Chris

CluBaleno is gooone. Forever.

Now RedlineGti.com have a baleno section.