Page 8 of 13
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:11 pm
by PJ.zook
Isnt the centre third of the lights reflective?
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 3:31 pm
by christover1
PJ.zook wrote:Isnt the centre third of the lights reflective?
Yes.
But I mean no reflectors behind the globes, just black plastic.
Real cheap have festoon globes, that I hate cos they fall out.
Next up has bayonette globes, much better.
Top of the line has silver dishes behind the globe = twice the light.
My zook ones have reflectors.
I will paint behind globes with silver hobby paint if needed

Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:28 pm
by christover1
I'm excited
Finaly got me hitch, he was apologetic for delay, he got busy.
Thanx to Bernard from Tradesmans Trailers
tradesmans_trailers@hotmail.com
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:32 pm
by Gwagensteve
christover1 wrote:
But I mean no reflectors behind the globes, just black plastic.
I will paint behind globes with silver hobby paint if needed

Chris - if they have an ADR approval don't worry about them, just run them until you can afford something better. If they work at all, you're already ahead of 90% of trailers.

Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:40 pm
by christover1
Gwagensteve wrote:christover1 wrote:
But I mean no reflectors behind the globes, just black plastic.
I will paint behind globes with silver hobby paint if needed

Chris - if they have an ADR approval don't worry about them, just run them until you can afford something better. If they work at all, you're already ahead of 90% of trailers.

very true.
I'm sure they will stay.
They are same bolt holes as my zook ones, so can change if needed.
But the better ones stuck out the back too far.
LED's did have a $35each option, but they looked dodgy.
This is a good compromise, and as you say they will do to get in going.
christover
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 6:18 pm
by Big D
just a quik question on that trailer hitch, can it be removed and replaced (onto a normal tow bar? I have a standard ball tow bar now, but say i wanted to get 1 like that, then swap over again wen needed, is that possible?
Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 12:14 am
by christover1
Big D wrote:just a quik question on that trailer hitch, can it be removed and replaced (onto a normal tow bar? I have a standard ball tow bar now, but say i wanted to get 1 like that, then swap over again wen needed, is that possible?
yes you just unbolt it and bolt back standard tow ball.
christover
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 4:51 pm
by christover1
I did just notice this hitch has a bush right thru it, with a flat section to prevent tongue and hitch rubbing together.
At least I think it goes in that way
Got the hitch mounted to trailer, destroying Ozito drill no.4.
This time they refunded so I could get a better one, a Makita this time.
Know nothing of them, but gotta be a step up from Ozito crud.

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 5:54 pm
by muppet_man67
Makita is good. Plenty of pro's use makita stuff.
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:54 pm
by Gwagensteve
Nice work Chris
Steve.
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:35 pm
by christover1
Gwagensteve wrote:Nice work Chris
Steve.
thanks.
Paint and a grinder can hide any dodgy welding quite well
2 x 12mm bolts should suffice if welds aren't up to it.
Getting it straight was a challenge, cos its plate wasn't straight.
christover
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 4:57 pm
by christover1
I finished the hitch and lights today, and finaly got to road test it.
Still gotta do a rev light and number plate light, yet.
It passed the road test, but I had to fight hard not to go bush and get some crossed up pix.
Trying to keep it clean to work on.
It tows ok, not to heavy for the car.
May need reflectors on it, cos I could easily ferget its there
I ran as much wiring internally as possible, with the rest running thru some tubing.
No rattles from the hitch, but the slipper springs complain on bigger bumps.
Happy so far, now it needs some skin and a tail gate.

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 5:58 pm
by Big D
maybe u should paint ur car the same as ur trailer? looking a bit tired i think

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:46 pm
by christover1
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:16 pm
by Gwagensteve
No amount of washing and polishing will stop those panels looking tired
Steve.
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:43 pm
by christover1
Gwagensteve wrote:No amount of washing and polishing will stop those panels looking tired
Steve.
I should have taken the photo from his good side
Or his less bad side
Dents, scratches, gouges and wrinkles are trophies

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 10:34 pm
by Danzo
I still recon you should have made it a foot longer at the back

, seriously the jockey wheel or what ever you use at the front will be taking a lot of weight when its not attatched to the car, Understandibly you dont want it to tip over, but you could have put another dropdown leg at the back for when its not being towed- could have tucked up nicely.
Nice job though dont get me wrong, Love the hitch assembly

Just what you need when flexin

Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 10:42 pm
by christover1
Understand what ya mean.
In actual fact axle position is around stock for trailers, ie 40% of box length. It just looks odd because of the larger tyres and big wheel arches that reach the back.
Main reason for overhang length is to increase the departure angle, as it is intended to go hardish core.
It is a touch front heavy, but not excessive.
Some dimensions were the result of using what I had or scrounged up cheap, also
Thanks for opinions, tho, always helps.
Probably will have legs at rear in the end, theres a spot for them. But for now it stays on car.
christover
Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2007 10:46 pm
by christover1
I'm wondering if I should get some mud flaps for the rear?
Maybe I should check Vic Roads web site for rules again.
Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2007 4:33 pm
by christover1
I fixed the slipper spring rattle with real complex a high tech system.
I shoved some heavy rubber pipe around the bolt the springs, on droop, get caught by.
The issue is caused by only using a single leaf, cos the 2nd leaf on a double leaf spring is angled down to stop loose drooping.
christover
Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 10:21 pm
by christover1
It's still only a rolling chassis, but I have decided it needs a shake down run, before I spend more time and money, just to see if it's up to it.
So plan is to take it on our next easy medium trip.
So hopefuly collect some action and/or pose shots asap

Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 1:13 pm
by christover1
Decision made.
Going for 1.6 (1.55) galv for trailer floor and sides.
$90 for a 2400 x 1200 sheet inc tax. (I hate tax)
$10 to cut it in half and they waved the $15 extracting from the warehouse fee. Threw in a few free offcuts, too.
All my needs will come out of 1 sheet.
Thanks go to BWS steel in Canterbury rd Bayswater.
Helpful chap and a 4wheeler, too.
I can forgive the ownership of a Range Rover cos he looked after me
Also thanks for everyones input, advice and links to good deals.
Thanks Jtraf for a very tempting offer on alloy cp.
Now just have to wait for it to be ready.
christover
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 1:36 pm
by Big D
lol it took u awhile to choose

I rekon its a good choice but. Galvanized steel is hard to beat ofr toughness
Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:25 pm
by christover1
Big D wrote:lol it took u awhile to choose

I rekon its a good choice but. Galvanized steel is hard to beat for toughness
MMMM yep
Had to wait for pension day, and had to do a waterpump, clutch thrust bearing and a uni b4 I could get to it.
I'm sure the car is jealous of my time with the trailer
But to be honest, I do make choices slowly these days.
Too many wasted $$ in my youth

Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 8:33 pm
by christover1
thanks to cj here is a small vid of Frog and Tadpole in action.
As usual vid makes hill look flat :'(
Pix and more vid to come.
christover
http://youtube.com/watch?v=cg5wBZP0xEQ
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 9:03 pm
by christover1
I bent it already.
A touch of rock rash on the guard.
Claire forgave me once I promised to cut off the bits that hangs down too far
Very happy with its performance so far, but needs a tad more weight, or less spring. It a bit boucy on rocks.
christover
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:18 pm
by Spike_Sierra
just a question.
is there a stop point in the hitch or can the trailer fully flip over?
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:47 pm
by christover1
Spike_Sierra wrote:just a question.
is there a stop point in the hitch or can the trailer fully flip over?
No, there is no stop point, other than I'd stop if it did
I had this worry too, but in heaving around the shed, it needs to be very, very high before it wants to tip. Annoying while building it

but a blessing while towing it
christover
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:43 pm
by christover1
After fitting floor section, which took longer than expected, I did the bounce it around to check for rattles.
10 minutes of hitting, shaking, leaning on floor to see what was rattling, I gave up.
Then while getting off the trailer, I noticed my car door was open, and leaning on the other bit of galv
No floor rattles, and only wasted ten minutes, and got a good laugh at myself
I have trimmed the offending guard metal out the way, and all else seems cool.
More pix to come, got too dark to get any today.
christover
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:46 pm
by sierrajim
christover1 wrote:After fitting floor section, which took longer than expected, I did the bounce it around to check for rattles.
10 minutes of hitting, shaking, leaning on floor to see what was rattling, I gave up.
Then while getting off the trailer, I noticed my car door was open, and leaning on the other bit of galv
No floor rattles, and only wasted ten minutes, and got a good laugh at myself
I have trimmed the offending guard metal out the way, and all else seems cool.
More pix to come, got too dark to get any today.
christover
Thats funny $hiat
