Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hay i fitted a 2inch body lift to my 96 coily sierra a few weeks ago and i notesed ever sine i fitted it i get a clunk noise in the frunt, it only happens when you go around a corner and the stearing wheal goses past a surtain point but it wont do it if you go slow or tern the wheal on the spot you have to be going a bit quick and the car leans a bit, i can also feel it in the flore slightly any idears on what it could be iv had a look underneef and cheched a few things are tight but cant figger it out any idears?

cheers scott

Gwagensteve wrote:Suzuki's came with full floating rear axles, rear locking diffs, and PTO's... doesn't mean they came into Australia like it, or that you could ring suzuki and order one.

There's no requirement for a pad on the accelerator, and one wasn't fitted from new in Australia.

Steve.

In which country had a sierra with a full floater rear

AFAIK, Canada had NT's with a full floating rear.

Canada vehicle rules stated that the handbrake had to apply to both rear wheels. In order to do this and still use the transfer mounted drum handbrake, suzuki set up a rear diff lock that applied with the handbrake so both rear wheels were braked.

It's my guess that the full float rear was part of the rear diff lock package.

The rear diff lock is for handbrake only and apparently grenades if you try and drive on it.

Of course, once suzuki went WT, the drum handbrake disappeared so there was no need for the lock any more.

ofr57 wrote:has any body replaced there rag joint with an Rag Joint Eliminator


how much does it effect steering in ways of bump steer

well i got mine today ... but it doesnt seem to fit looks like the steering shaft should be half an inch shorter

i thought this would just be a bolt in job

i think i see how it could be done

i push the eliminator further back onto the spline of the steering box then trim some of the excess off would that work?

Question re diffs. I've got a Lockrite that's going into my front diff in a few months time (93 WT). I have a NT centre which gives me the 4 pinion carrier needed so that's fine. I'm not going 26 spline at the moment due to the $$$ required for the heavy duty CV's.

I've got a spare rear WT diff here though that has been welded. Assuming that the diff is in decent condition (which it may not be!), if I start busting CV's in future can I use the centre from the WT rear diff (remembering that it's been welded), fit the Lockrite, and use it in the front with 26 spline axels?

Never had a diff apart yet so not sure if the welded gear is chucked as part of the Lockright fitment, or whether I'd need an open rear diff to be able to do it.

Some weeks ago i posted asking if anyone had put a E15ET out of a Front wd exa or et, in a zuki.. well i wanted to have a go and put one in mine. took 3 weeks of work and two weeks of waiting for parts. BUT it's in and fired it up on the weekend!






really bad pics i know, doing the zorst tonight so i will get some better pics for those that want a laugh!!

Adam

what Box?

stanza or datto...

it's a 120y box, u use the exa flywheel and clutch, through out aswell... only thing is the input shaft needs a 18 to 20mm trim. An u also need to turn down a bearing for the datto shaft. they dont make a roller with the right dims. Also use a 120y starter, tho u will need to mod the factory oil cooler.

Adam

well i got some more pics, got all the zorst dun and drove it to work today.. part from the clutch needing some adj and 1 loose hose clamp. All tip top.
Still have to rig up my air box and snork. also tidy up some lil things, but comes on boost early and has more low down then the 1.3 .... also a heap more on boost.








an also my brother soft top with the 2ltr

what gearbox does your brother run with the pinto, and how easily does the whole package go in? also is it too nose heavy for descents?

Is there any thing i can do to achieve any more height.ive alredy done shackles,springs,body lift...
i dont want to do a virtual lift..

Is there anything i can do to move my diff forward anymore than just re-drilling the spring perches? (with driveshaft spacer)

Can i redrill the rear spring perches and move the diff back by only getting a driveshaft spacer??

Where have you bought your reduction gears from??

Well, it is the "silly" question thread - the right question is how can I run less lift, not more.

Otherwise: you have to drill the U-bolt plate and the spring perch.

Yes to both ends- that's all you need to do to get about 30mm at each end.

Trail tough for my gears.

Steve.

esky wrote:what gearbox does your brother run with the pinto, and how easily does the whole package go in? also is it too nose heavy for descents?

it's the ford box aswell, 4 speed.... ide not try to do this less u have a lwb. we went through so much to get this in.. if u looked at the level of effort from 1 to 10.... would be about a 8.... not really super hard, but lots of inhouse fab work

zookkid wrote:Is there any thing i can do to achieve any more height.ive alredy done shackles,springs,body lift...
i dont want to do a virtual lift..

To answer you straightly you can go sprung over, get bigger tires or get some portal diffs.

zookkid wrote:Is there any thing i can do to achieve any more height.ive alredy done shackles,springs,body lift...
i dont want to do a virtual lift..

You could do a "virtual lift" on your diffs by counter-sinking the spring plates closer to the axel - this might score you 0.5" to 1".

Perhaps moving your spring mounts further away from the chassis (not a very cool solution).

Otherwise the other more obvious ones are to get springs with more arch, or increase the size of the body lift (2" still seems to be the max advisable)...

That said - I have to agree with Steve though - more lift is not cool. Less lift is definately where it is at. My little car sits on 35s and i am disappointed that i took the easy route and fitted a 2" body lift. It is clearly 2" taller than it needs to be. I might have to channel 2" out of the body and doors to fix this in the future.

Silly Question:

I wasn't on the OL board much between 2004 - 2008.

What was the date / what event occurred that meant that every reply to a tech question had to include:

1. you'll never engineer that
2. you live in qld, you can't do that
3. you'll never engineer that

You could do a "virtual lift" on your diffs by counter-sinking the spring plates closer to the axel - this might score you 0.5" to 1".

i was thinking on doing this and run flatter springs [/code]

ofr57 wrote:

You could do a "virtual lift" on your diffs by counter-sinking the spring plates closer to the axel - this might score you 0.5" to 1".

i was thinking on doing this and run flatter springs [/code]

i was too. but it goes against the "lower is cooler" rule.

plus i like my car to look factory

ok is the ruber on the inside of the spring that is around the shock do anything? cos if you can see in the pic it has worn the paint of the shock and now squeaks realy bad over every litle bump and is driveing me insaine, iv tried puting grease in there and it stoped for about a day, so can i cut it of or dose it help protect the shock?



cheers scott

i'd say thats to keep dirt and shit away from your shock seal. i wouldn't remove it.

yeah mine does the same
why dont u give me your shocsk and coils and that will solve the issue??

As above, it just stops the larger crap from getting on top of the shock. I don't have it on mine and it's fine. In saying that both my fronts are completely stuffed, they are bent and the shock tube rubs on the spring.

jonno_racing wrote:yeah mine does the same
why dont u give me your shocsk and coils and that will solve the issue??

lol nar i think ill keep them , so there nothing i can do to quieten the squeak it only dose it on the drivers side.

cheers scott

crc?? hehe i just put up with mine and turn the sterio up

also why is your online name davepatrol but your name is scott?

jonno_racing wrote:crc?? hehe i just put up with mine and turn the sterio up

also why is your online name davepatrol but your name is scott?

i made my own acount under scottysj80 but havent recieverd the email yet its been like 6 montes so i just use my dads acount unless you no how to fined my lost email?

greg wrote:Silly Question:

I wasn't on the OL board much between 2004 - 2008.

What was the date / what event occurred that meant that every reply to a tech question had to include:

1. you'll never engineer that
2. you live in qld, you can't do that
3. you'll never engineer that

When Grimbo realised it sounded like tech.

Steve.

greg wrote:Silly Question:

I wasn't on the OL board much between 2004 - 2008.

What was the date / what event occurred that meant that every reply to a tech question had to include:

1. you'll never engineer that
2. you live in qld, you can't do that
3. you'll never engineer that

I want to know at what point during those "years off" you started asking tech type questions ...

greg wrote:

ofr57 wrote:

You could do a "virtual lift" on your diffs by counter-sinking the spring plates closer to the axel - this might score you 0.5" to 1".

i was thinking on doing this and run flatter springs [/code]

i was too. but it goes against the "lower is cooler" rule.

plus i like my car to look factory

i gotta be alittle taller since I've got a LWB
I've been thinking
roza springs , longer shackles, shave diffs , high clearance spring mount plats , and reducing the size of the perches

on this note has anybody got pics on how people have opened the rear of the front wheel wells and pushed them back?

I understand the process but i would just like to get a visual referance

Ah greg its good to have you back
Nik