Page 8 of 10

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2005 12:29 pm
by sierrajim
just an update.

Now have hole in rear diff compliments of a large rock, two busted transfer case mounts and the thoughts of 3/4 rear and tube tray.

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2005 12:33 pm
by redzook
38.5's? :cool:

Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2005 9:26 pm
by Dozoor
Nice :)

Posted: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:25 am
by sierrajim
they are 36x12.5 Swamper SX's on 15x10 allied beadlocks.

Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 4:15 pm
by sierrajim
I've actually got some time to do some work on the car this weekend so i thought that i'd better fix the diff.

The easy way to access it is by cutting off the rear end :twisted:

Thats now done as you can see.

Whilst i've got the welder out i thought that i may as well go buggy leaf in the rear. So far i'm about 1/4 of the way there with the buggy leaf.

Ive got a set of sierra rears with the military wrap and was thinking of using the end with the wrap and having two leaves each side.

Any advantages or disadvantages?

Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 1:57 am
by Barathrum
i like the cut rear. its exactly the same as what i did with mine. it is so much easier to work on the rear when there is no body in the way :D

Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:24 am
by sierrajim
i now have most of the tray frame built and the left hand side buggy leaf is 99% done.

Will finish off mounting the tray tonight and do the buggy leaf for the right hand side on Wednesday.

The tray has been made so that i can move the diff back another 300mm when i sort out the next stage.

Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:26 am
by sierrajim
BTW the back brace (not the actual one just some scrap) is just sitting there right now and there are a couple of temporary supports just tack welded in place.

Re the tubing, do i need to use seamless for a car as light as a zook?

The main hoop is but does it need to be for the rest of it?

Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 11:27 am
by Guy
I really dont see why you would, of course its better to have seamless, but the cage is for low speed work etc, not a Nascar..

I would feel comfortable driving a 4by that had a cage with the bracing made from HREW ..

Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 11:44 am
by Barathrum
DOM isn't seamless.
just remember even though it might be built for low speed work, if you happen to filp or roll at the top of a BIG hill by the time you get to the bottom you may be travelling fairly quick.

Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:14 pm
by ljxtreem
iv herad some bad shit about steam tube cagges and the ocupents of the car having to be cut out :?


Tray looks grouse James :D


Mock

Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2005 10:20 am
by Guy
Barathrum wrote:DOM isn't seamless.
just remember even though it might be built for low speed work, if you happen to filp or roll at the top of a BIG hill by the time you get to the bottom you may be travelling fairly quick.


I agree but I have seen an RHS pipe rack stand up to a roll in a 75series (probarbly saved the guys life)

If the cage is properly thought out and wel constructed it will be fine

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:04 am
by sierrajim
And some pics of the back and cross braces done.

The tray is also now painted, other half of the buggy leaf just about done and diff being removed to weld up the big a$$ hole in the cover plate.

Will redrill the springs at the same tome to move the rear diff back a little more.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:18 am
by redzook
looks good :cool:

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:36 am
by sierrajim
I'm not sure if i need cross braces running the other way.

My engineer says it will be stronger (obviously). But am unsurs as to if they are necessary for a vehicle as light as this that will not be doing high speed work.

The extra cross braces will mean that there is an additional +/- 3m of tube.

As it is the front half of that cage will use around 4.2m on top of the 6m already there. I don't want to add any more weight than i need.

What are your thoughts?

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:54 am
by Rhett
Ive rolled mine quite a few times both slow and fastish for a zook on my cage and it hasent let go yet and most of it is made from galvernised fence tube.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:58 am
by Rhett
When you say buggy leaf are you going 3/4 or 1/4? Im going to put lux springs in the back of mine with 3/4 shortly and I was wondering if I can stick the top spring out past my chassie rail or will it kink?? Any one done this??

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:18 am
by sierrajim
It's 3/4 in the rear.

One of LJEXTREMES mates had the lux springs in the rear of his zook with 3/4.

HJis leaves extended past the rear of the chassis, my only problem with this is that you are placing a substantial load on the end of the 3/4 spring that could cause the spring to let go. I would say it would be best to have the 3/4 spring supported along it's entire length.

From memory he trashed the springs real quick with axle wrap.

He also had the lux springs in the front. Lots of travel

The common compliant that i have heard is that the 3/4 rear makes the vehicle unstable on steep climbs.

I'm looking at running air operated lock off pins to disable the buggyleaf in the rear.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:29 am
by Rhett
Unstable? - Bounces, walks to much, slides of the springs?? Did he run a track bar? I wanted to hang the springs out to exend my wheel bas to run 37s.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 11:06 am
by bigsteve
Josh's leaves didn't extend that much out from the chassis.

and the axle wrap would of more likely been because the lux spring was reversed plus only 2 or three in the pack and a 12.5 inch wide tyre.

Wide tyre + welded diff + lots of soft spring in front of the axle = wrap

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 1:46 pm
by sierrajim
i agree that the axle wrap was not caused entirly by the spring being past the chassis. It would have been a minor contributor to the problem.

The only problem with having the 3/4 spring past the chassis is that it creates a weak point in the spring that could possibly break.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 1:56 pm
by bigsteve
sierrajim wrote:i agree that the axle wrap was not caused entirly by the spring being past the chassis. It would have been a minor contributor to the problem.

The only problem with having the 3/4 spring past the chassis is that it creates a weak point in the spring that could possibly break.


I still don't think it'd be that much of an issue given that the lux rear has the military wrap and when fitted in reverse (aka Josh) that end of the spring poking out from the chassis would have 2 full leaves around the shackle bush.

I think it would be stronger than a single spring but personally would only like it sticking out maybe an inch tops.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 4:03 pm
by Rhett
What is the advantage of runing a lux spring in reverse??

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:54 pm
by Barathrum
Rhett wrote:What is the advantage of runing a lux spring in reverse??


lux rear springs have an offset pin. the pin is offset towards the front. if you reverse the spring the pin would be offset towards the rear, hence give you a better departure angle, and extending your wheelbase at the same time without moving the hangers. i've got reversed lux rears in the back of mine. i'm not sure if the spring will flex more or less because of the location of the axle in relation to the shackle. someone might know. but i guess i'll find out as soon as i can flex mine up.

Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2005 9:59 pm
by Barathrum
i just realised that Rhetts question was in regard to useing the lus spring in reverse as the top spring in a 3/4 setup not as the main spring. my anwser was in regard to using a lux spring as your main leaf pack. I don't have a 3/4 setup so i'm i can't comment on using the springs in a 3/4 setup.

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 9:56 am
by sierrajim
after a long night on Tuesday we finally got it back together.

Gembrook on Wednesday, all seemed to work fairly well except for a semi f@rked transfer case mount and a leaking rear diff.

The buggy leaf works fairly well, there is not a lot of weight on the rear so it does not have excessive travel and seems quite predictable so far.

I ended up installing bump stops in the rear which i think i'll cut down a bit then see how that works for a little more compression.

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 10:53 am
by DeWsE
Top stuff sierrajim!

Looks really good, just need a heap of wheeling photo’s now
;)

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:04 am
by sierrajim
like these?

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:16 am
by Barathrum
sierrajim wrote:like these?

that's better

the first one looks like a sweet little track

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 11:29 am
by DeWsE
Dude that is just so tidy! Bring on the pic’s