Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Tidy?

Not when you see it in real life.

he he
ive seen it he he he he

real tidy

Mock

nice paint colour though

Mock

Tidy = Functional

well in that case almost tidy.

May have asked this before?

Do you need a trac bar in a 3/4 setup if the springs are mostly supported all the way and are the zook springs and not luxs.

cheers

couple of updates.

The winch is now on and have sold the swampers to change over to some 36" Simex's.

Fabricating the new diff cover plate Tuesday night, inlet manifold gasket being done tuesday, dual batteries being finished Thursday night.

Then we find the next weak link.

BTW

Transfer case mount now a urethane bush with a bolt straight through.

forgot the pics

I like the winch bar, where did you get it from or was it your own creation?

it came off josh's car. It's kind off bent after using it as a recovery point

I've modified the mounts and fabbed the winch mount, works well but will change the fairlead for a machined alloy one when i get some plasma.

looks good james
pedes look cool too

Lifted zook on peedes

he he

mock

progress please

Progress

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 5&start=30

The zook is sitting at rest on 31" tyres (simex on Hilux) and waiting for some upgrades.

Looking at rangie V8, auto and transfer. Have been thinking ofthis for a while so no i'm not an Overkill Clone.

Possibly cruizer diffs or just keep the MQ's for the moment. Will run leaves for a while then conversion to coils.

Need to build cage for up coming OZROCK. Unfortunately won't be done for the first round but should be done for the second.

Then we build the buggy . Just waiting on specs for OZROCK.

My other half is becoming rather annoyed that i spend so much time working on 4WD's and not with her. She doesn't mind me spending the $$$ just not the time. Hence finishing the zook in stages.

Will most likely put a back wall in the cab when i do the cage as well.

Welded rear working fine as is the Lokka in the front.

Damn with that amount of mods wouldn't it be cheaper to start again and sell this one?

Your basicly going to change every mechanical part

Sell it cheap to me

Why start again? As it is now with no reg it's relatively worthless, so i may as well just modify it.

The rangie drivetrain conversion shouldn't take too long, then some quality time with the other half, then the cage, then some quality time, then the suspension.

sierrajim wrote:Why start again? As it is now with no reg it's relatively worthless, so i may as well just modify it.

The rangie drivetrain conversion shouldn't take too long, then some quality time with the other half, then the cage, then some quality time, then the suspension.

I just think if you are going to change the motor, gearbox, tcase, diffs, springs, rollcage..... That doesn't leave much of the original, thats all.

Should be sweet as when you finish it.

It will still have a Suzuki body and chassis (mostly zook anyway)

Looking at boggers again for when its done.

Tim D wrote:

sierrajim wrote:This is my zook you are talking about?

Mq diffs to 60 series is about width more than anything. The MQ diffs are a fair bit wider therefore offering better stability.

Am also looking at the possibility of running GQ diffs, more expensive to start with but have better CV strength than the 60 series so i won't have to fork out for heavier CV's later on.

It looks like the 1.6 will be dumped as will the 5 speed sierra box and series 3's then replaced with a rangie V8 and auto running straight LPG.

Just want to see how WEROCK gets off the ground as i see no use in spending the time building a rig that only gets used once a year. What are you looking at doing?

I was wondering how your car handled with leafs all round and still had the tub before the tray ?
Was it too short ?
Not enough travel ?
How did it go then ?
thanks mate

Tim,

The sierra worked quite well before the ute chop, in fact i'm wishing i didn't chop it from a cosmetic point of view.

The main reason for the chop was basically to stretch the wheelbase and allow for a little more up travel with a larger tyre.

The only changes that were made to the suspension when the ute chop took place was the redrilling of the pearches to move the rear diff further back and the installation of the buggy leaf. Coils with 4 link was to occur shortly after which would move the diff 7 or so inches further back again.

For Victorian style driving wheel travel isn't everything, particularly when the car is fairly low and relatively wide. Quite often excessive wheel travel can become unstable (especially drop shackles that unload easily).

With "enough" travel and lockers most recreational obsticles can be driven with relative ease. The definition of enough travel will depend on what you build the car to do. In VIC, TAS and SA most driving is dirt/mud/sand where wheel travel is not as important as momentum and traction.

NSW and QLD guys will be able to add some more info on their thoughts of wheel travel on their terrain.

It may not be an easy thing todo but you need a good balance of both.

My advice to you would be to (if not already) install lockers and see where you want to go from there.

James

Yes to quote an old saying , 5" of good suspension is better then 12" of junk

I think your right with the balance theory .

sierrajim wrote:I've had a little clearance issue with the booster and the steering shaft uni joint. Now sorted just had to extend the spline on the column to make clearance.

its appears i too have the same problem on the rocky.
any chance of stealing a piccie?

and yes...ur bus is kool-very

Spartacus wrote:

sierrajim wrote:I've had a little clearance issue with the booster and the steering shaft uni joint. Now sorted just had to extend the spline on the column to make clearance.

its appears i too have the same problem on the rocky.
any chance of stealing a piccie?

and yes...ur bus is kool-very

This vehicle was not intended for on road use.

What i did was cut the input splines off an old zook steering box and welded it to the end of the steering column at the firewall, sleeved it with a small piece of tube and all was good.

It pushed the firewall end universal joint out another 3" or so giving me some clearance for the booster.

ahh thanx for that.

tank pics as requested

Thanks jim,

is that the LWB 55L or the 42L SWB tank?

cheers

nicbeer wrote:Thanks jim,

is that the LWB 55L or the 42L SWB tank?

cheers

Tank came out of 1990 SWB Vitara hard top.

I did need to modify the filler neck. If it were road registered i would have put a false floor over the top.

OK, Nuki is back on the go now that the Hilux is essentially done.

This will be done as cheaply as possible as i want a vehicle to run OZROCK until i have time to build the buggy. I'm not even thinking this will be competitive but just want to get out and have fun wheeling it.

Plans are:

The spare Hilux diffs that i have lying around here (4.88's)
Most likely coils in the rear with 4 link
leaves in the front (Hilux rears)
remove the tray and refit rear panels dove tailed
6 point cage

Just trying to decide on the engine, gearbox, transfer at the moment. Options are:

Retain the 1.6, run on gas into a Vit auto with Vit transfer

2WD Hilux eng (maybe even diesel ) auto into 1.0ltr transfer

As i said this thing will just be a fun buggy. Any ideas appreciated.

sweet as why not take the luxy in we rock????

The Hilux is to (well i'll try to) stay nice and straight. Not sure about Werock terrain but Ozrock terrain would have completely destroyed every body panel on the Hilux.

Also prefer manual in the Hilux for its intended use and auto in the zook for its intended use.

so why the change in diffs? Can understand the desire to change engine/box, kinda accepting the other mods, but I keep wondering where your headed.

Basically, you want a Buggy, but for whatever reason not prepared to do it now, that is cool and I understand, but then your suggesting basically changine every other feature of the vehicle bar the $400 body? So, me thinks, why not just buld a buggy and be done with it, parting the ol zuke out to refinance the new toy.

Realistically, the time investment, not to mention the financial one, would have to be similar, and more than likely get you closer to where 'you wanna be' in the long run......

None the less, look forward to reading more....

Cheers,

Drewfus

There's a few reasons why i want to do this thing the way i am planning on:

1. I have a ton of spares for Hilux diffs for my other rig
2. Rock crawling is a very new thing to us Victorians, hence if you can learn in something cheap it can save you big $$$. I would rather clock up hours and learn what i want to build for myself in something that i don't have $10-20k tied up in.
3. This project will cost me (on top of what i already have here) 4 or so lengths of tube, 4 shocks, transfer case and rear disconnect.
4. Time, the body is set up, the chassis is braced all i need to do is the transfer mounts, link mounts and cage. Still lots of work but as i said most of it is done.

Oh, and thanks to Possum Hunter for the gearbox, now confirmed the running of Vit 1.6 on gas with Vit auto into Vit transfer with the possibility of duals.