Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Dont know if anyone has said this as i couldn't be stuffed reading every post but you can also get a 180 holley,it is basicly a webber but is spun 180 deg so it wont flood up hills but will when going down which isn't as bad cause you can use your brakes to still get down so you don't get stuck in a gully with a car that wont climb out.
Adaptor plates are still the same just need a longer throttle cable,swift i think.Also SUZIsport stafford,brissy usually has both in stock or takes a day to get them.

The problem is the fuel bowl is vented open to the air horn and raw fuel pours into the carb throat going uphill, but not downhill. You have to seal that opening with ?Liquid Solder?. The fuel bowl is now sealed, but you have now created another problem: your fuel pump is now pressurizing the fuel bowl and forcing raw gas out the main jets. To solve this (while you have the carb apart to seal the fuel bowl opening) examine the external vent casting. I am talking about the vent connected by a rubber hose from the carb to the charcoal canister.



If you examine the air horn closely you will notice the casting for the vent goes under the air horn next to the opening you sealed previously. Use an 1/8 drill bit to drill from the air horn into the tube created by the casting. By doing this you have once again vented your fuel bowl, but the raw gas will not flow back into the throat of the carb.

Copied from http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/webers.htm

that is one option but it is not the best. You need to vent the fuel bowl into the throats but do it by installing a new vet tube. see pic for details.

just got a 32/36 weber on my zook, runs great, alot better havnt had it flood to much yet but am going to try get it out and find out.

let us know if ya have any dramas. sure we cam help if ya do

i've just put on my weber dfev.it runs alright but when i turn off the car it trys to keep going for abit and splutters out the top.I've tryed changing the timing but that dosnt help. this is how its set up so far
prim / sec
mains 140/137
air 165/170
idle was 50 but it wouldnt idle so i drilled it out abit /50
prim emul. f66 sec emul f50
the numbers in side the chokes are 3.5
i thought it might be too much fuel in the carby i've tryed to lower the float down this didnt do much either.
any ideas would be appreciated

yeah happens to mine to mate, cant figure out what it is ive just put it down to excess fuel in the bowl when you turn of the car, getting by just turning it of and then putting the car in gear, stalling it turns it off lol

Are you guys both running fuel cutoff solinoids??? Does it do it all the time even when the engine is still cold?
Dan

nah dont think i have a fuel cutoff solanoid, and no it doesnt happen when the engines cold for me, just if ive been on an average drive and go to turn it of and it runs on, doesnt seem like a big problem just abit annoying

yeah i've been playing with it all day its when the engine is hot that it does it.it still runs abit ruff so ive gotta find some more jets and keep on tunin.its defiantly too much fuel left in there.

went to the carby shop today and he said its because the butterfly isn't closing properly and letting air in to make it run on. i asked about fuel regulators and cut offs and he said that that wouldn't help it.he said turn the mix screw out about 8 turns instead off 1-2. i tryed this didn't stop it that much.but i get new idles tomorrow.

what jetting setup are you running?

Mine used to run on but only if i turned it off after a decent flogging.

I have a 84 model with a weber. i went to http://WWW.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/webers.htm and used their advice for jetting it works but i have bored 3rd oversize and took 40tho off the head and a ram flow air cleaner sits on 120 all day on the highway

i'm using what i've typed in just before.i'm getting 60 n 60 idles tomorrow and getting some 130 mains soon.i've got a ramflo for a air filter.my mixture screw dosn't do too much and the guy i talked to said thats the only size u can get.he said about 8 turns out but the jets hardly even in still.i read on other forums about 1 to 2 turns out.

ok. this is what i was taught many years ago when playin with webers on escorts and cortinas. with engine warmed up and idleing, screw in idle screw slowly till engine starts to chug and stall. then screw out 1 to 2 turns untill it idles the smoothest . idle is set. this is what ive worked on and its worked well for me.

I think your main jets could be a tad small.
Try 60 idle jets and 140 mains with 170/160 air jets.

thanks man. the idle jet is real sensitive. the guy today said that the idles should be screwed in all the way and you change the idle speed on the mix screw. but it wouldn't idle like that and the mix screw didn't do much.ill c what happens tomorrow when i get the new jets.

jradical wrote:i'm using what i've typed in just before.i'm getting 60 n 60 idles tomorrow and getting some 130 mains soon.i've got a ramflo for a air filter.my mixture screw dosn't do too much and the guy i talked to said thats the only size u can get.he said about 8 turns out but the jets hardly even in still.i read on other forums about 1 to 2 turns out.

Hey man what other info do you have on your engine?? Size? Extractors? Other mods? That run on problem is due to fuel still entering the carb and being ignited by hot spots inside the cylinder wall. The way to solve this is to get an fuel cutoff solinoid, i got mine off a weber on the old falcons, bolts straight in.

My jetting;
primary/ secondary

Idle 60/50
main 145/135
air 160/170
e-tubes F50/F50
aux venturies 3.5/4.5

As per previous post i put this on a dyno and it came out with 12.1:1 a/f at full noise, slightly on the rich side but safe. Could increase the air a lil.

Im in Mt Gravatt so if your up that way pop in and ill have a sus.

Cheers Dan

i figured it all out the reason for run on is the accelerator return rest screw wasn't set correct so when it was pulled back it would leave the butterfly open abit, also i had to make my spring pull back harder.i put those 60 idle jets in on my way home the sarvo and set the idle goes alot better just loses abit of power up high.should i put a 50 idle back in the secondry.

also im running ramflo, extractors, 2 inch exhuast n straight through muffler.

Well anyways thought id pop up a pic of my accelerator cable setup. Its very simple and clean. Uses a weber control linkage wheel slightly drilled out to accomadate the suzuki cable end. Should be goin for another dyno run this weekend with the fresher motor. Will keep yas posted.
Dan

it would be interesting to see the power / torque curve with the weber on it. Hows the tuning ATM?

I gave up on my weber awhile ago but I still follow how others are going.
I had another look at the pic showing how to seal the float bowl and it talks about sealing on the main part of the carb, I only sealed the top portion of the carb.
Does anyone have a better pic of what to seal on the main body?
Nik

I was thinking about how my weber use to hesitate when you gave it more on hill climbs and what could be causing it. Im thinking lack of fuel?
From memory the float has ten mill of travel but on mine the float would bottom out just before full down travel when set correctly as the bowl wasnt deep enough so this left 8 - 9 mill of fuel. Now with the bowl at the back the jets are at the front of the car so on a hill the jets would only be just under the fuel and a quick hit of the throttle would use the small amount of fuel quicker than its coming in allowing it to suck air?
Whats your thoughts on my theory, tell me if Im wrong cause Ive spoke to a few people including mechanics and they said its possible and the carb shop said its a definate and is suprised it even runs backwards as it would starve for fuel.
This was the major reason I got rid of the weber so if I could fix it Id give it another crack.
Nik

Anyone got any input on my theory? Its no use asking the carby shops as you get "no one uses webers anymore" or " You,ll never get it to run backwards"
They must be useable offroad as the yanks love them, but then again..
only stirring dont take offense
Nik

you could get a twin carb setup of evilbay and run twin side draughts or for gsx zook m/cycle carbs

I have a set of twin su carbs but allcarb said it wouldnt go any better than the weber and would be a pita to set up custom manifolds etc
Nik

he's full of it i'll have a chat to my mate he used to fit carbies on harleys twin carb set ups s/us x2 on 1340s and twin webbers on real mini's i ll pm you when i talk to him over the weekend look on uk/ebay under suzuki sj413 or related link

NIK wrote:Anyone got any input on my theory? Its no use asking the carby shops as you get "no one uses webers anymore" or " You,ll never get it to run backwards"
They must be useable offroad as the yanks love them, but then again..
only stirring dont take offense
Nik

Yea your theory is exactly rite. Pretty sure ive outlined this somewhere in this thread a while ago. Its pretty much got to do with the gravity affect on the fuel in the bowl and where it enters the throat, the main jets etc. Simple really the weber has the fuel bowl mounted either to the rear or front of the zuk engine, it will run either way but will have the same problems only reversed. I have mine backwards (fuel bowl facing the rear), take gravity into effect going down steep hills and its obvious to see that the fuel is forced into the throats, richening everything up and eventually stalling the engine. On severe inclines, with bumps everynow and then the jets will be above the level of the fuel in the bowl, thus starving the engine for fuel.

I have set mine up so it is quite bareable offroad, the float is set so the fuel level in the bowl in on the high side(helps on inclines). The needle movement was set as small as possiable(helps alot on the bouncy stuff). The needle movement was set by trial and error on road. To set it i simply kept bending the tab until it started to starve for fuel up high revs on flat ground, then backed it off slightly.

The SU carbs you speak about what size are they? Keep in mind that the runners into the head are roughly 28mm each and there a 4 of them. The SU or sidedraught type carbs would be the best possaible carb for offroad use as there fuel bowls are usually located under the carb, therefore no angle will force fuel into the throat or starve it cept for unside down . Two inch and a half should feed the zuk motor quite well, and will flow more than the weber, provided u have an efficient manifold.
As for most carby places in reguards to the weber 32/36 on a 1.3L

"Geez that will never run, it came off a 2 liter, its wayyyy to big"

Cheers Dan

we used to run 2x1.1/2 su/s on 1310 cooper s minis the only thing was we had to find a cam to match but in them days the bigger the cam the better i think they had 35/75 grinds in them

just talked to my mate and he said that su/s will be the way to go as they work like a motorcycle carb don't matter what angle you get they won't flood and will out perform webbers if you can fit two it will fly so i might buy some of uk ebay hope this helps