Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thanks Grinch mate i know what ur saying as i get 3.2k per L of gas at the moment but that is around town driving and giving it some most corners straights or were ever the road goes

With it running rich well my last dyno everyone was saying it was lean as a biatch and now it seems to run the right amount by the GRA site..

Timming well i got a in car adjustment just turn the nob and retard it more etc and once the weather gets hot again etc i'll wind it down a bit and reatrd it ..

Don't worry about what i said the other night zac just had one of those moments .. at the time it sounded like u were being a smart ass ..


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With the head gasket and cracked head and stuff well i got the head off and had a good look and i noticed a bit of the gasket on No.6 was a bit torn/burnt and No.6 cylinder had a bit of coolant in it more then the little dribble like the others from removing the head.

Seems like it has leaked or blown there before becuase they welded half the water jacket

Anyway here are some pics when i did my clucth and my head and my pistons and shit ..

Pistons well i don't know what there ment to look like but there was no lip on the bores and i didn't find a hole in the piston thank god hehe























Well here are a few pics

Mulisha,


Is that an Exedy Safari Tuff clutch.? How much did it cost you.

Cheers
Grant.

raptorthumper wrote:Mulisha,


Is that an Exedy Safari Tuff clutch.? How much did it cost you.

Cheers
Grant.

Yep and it was $650.

Rick.

id be getting the head crack tested and machined if you say it looks like its been welded before theres a good chance its cracked again, if it has id be getting a brand new head, as once they are repaired they usually have a high failer rate. going by the black marks at the back of the block it been gone a while and the big build up of carbon on no.6. has that motor been rebuilt latly or is it just been painted? jackson engineering in nambour have a good name for machineing.

IMO that is absolutely crazy if you have an in car timing adjustment. There is no way in the world that youll be able to adjust your timing accurately. That's a recipe for disaster. that is if you want a reliable motor.
It should be able to be tuned to run however the outside temp is

GRINCH wrote:id be getting the head crack tested and machined if you say it looks like its been welded before theres a good chance its cracked again, if it has id be getting a brand new head, as once they are repaired they usually have a high failer rate. going by the black marks at the back of the block it been gone a while and the big build up of carbon on no.6. has that motor been rebuilt latly or is it just been painted? jackson engineering in nambour have a good name for machineing.

Thanks mate were it was welded before is in the pic above .. 3rd pic from the bottom have a look at the water jacket u can see were the half welded the hole..


This is the retard system i'm using..

http://www.msdignition.com/tc_18.htm

Cheers

Rick

great thread for others to see what not to do

I think that when you get the head fixed up you should run less boost so that you have a motor that is more reliable in all conditions. No use having a lot of power if you cant trust it when your out bush. Maybe somewhere in between your first and last tune.

Jimmy

Lean is mean, it is also hot and f#*!s things up, under no circumstances would you run an LPG boosted engine leaner that lambda .85, rather closer to .80 especially on higher boosts. It will make more power at .9 but the combustion temps will melt stuff. If you want to do it right and run high boost build a bottom end for the job. Forged pistons and H beam rods.
Cracking of the heads is not the issue, get a rockwell hardness test, the excessive heat softens the alloy, either get the head stripped and re hardened if it is soft and then fully machined and new guides as they become loose from the hardening process, or get a new core that is suitably hard.

Joel

You already have the motor out you may as well set it up right now.

Can't cost that much for the bottom end, the head work might cost a bit though.

But money well spent, because it will be a rock solid motor and will cop as much thrashing as you can give it.

Would be a huge pain in the ass to do it half assed and then always babying the motor because you know its going to break one day in the bush...

Mulisha wrote:A bit of a update

Got a intercooler fitted and tunned to 15psi 206rwkw and 1500ft.lb




That power was made on 33's and my orginal 195rwhp was made on 31's..

Before the cooler and that on 33's made 152rwhp


I'm real happy with the car just gota get the gearbox out now and fit a new clucth so going to ring a few places tommorow becuase if i go over 2200rpm clucth just gets fryed and just revs the engine! Ask GU BUG

How hard is the gearbox to get out got quoted $600 to take it out then i gota get a custom clucth which is $600 so i wanna save some $$$ and might pull the gearbox out myself..

I'll get some pics up of the engine bay with the cooler and stuff tommorow ..

I new the standard clucth had no hope

Anything over 8psi bye bye clucth

If anyone knows of good clucth builders as i'm going to get custom made one becuase off the shelf ones i don't think will hold up.

Thanks everyone by the way for ya help along the way and will keep u posted..

Rick.

May I ask what torque measurement is the 1500 ft.lb?
These 1500ft.lb at the flywheel with around 3000 rpm equal over 630 kW Power.
Peter

All the torque figures will be rears wheel so therefore are multipled by gearing, tyres, differentials etc.

Joel

rick what i done with me head was purchased a bare new casting from all heads in melbourn which use a genuine nissan casting then do a air bleed kit to fully rmove air from the cooling system and ensure coolant gets through out the whole engine. this was then shipped to all cylinder head services in sydney where i had all new bit put into the head after it was ported and polished and a slight shave. firmer springs used. new hi flow water pump also used. removed radiator and replaced with a custom 50mm 3 core unit and used twin au thermos. didnt touch the bottom end at all.. car hammers now,,

IMO dont run thermos if you plan on doing alot of offroad work. They shit themselves to easily. I ran genuine AU thermo fans on mine until about 2 weeks ago when they crapped themselves, 2 hrs from anywhere. pain in the arse Put the shroud and mechanical fan back on and its perfect Runs better more constant water temps than ever before. Alot more reliable

I like what raptor thumper and Rick have done..but what sought of performance hike would you get on a 4.2 petrol by just bolting on the turbo and maniforld of a turbo diesel 4.2.

I rarely push it over 3 000 rpm anyway so would the basic diesel outfit enhance the petrol. Would be an almost bolt on fit and with a straight gas set up using the EFI manifold off the 4200 or 4500 would be a fairly simple jobby.

What do you think?

RoadNazi wrote:I like what raptor thumper and Rick have done..but what sought of performance hike would you get on a 4.2 petrol by just bolting on the turbo and maniforld of a turbo diesel 4.2.

I rarely push it over 3 000 rpm anyway so would the basic diesel outfit enhance the petrol. Would be an almost bolt on fit and with a straight gas set up using the EFI manifold off the 4200 or 4500 would be a fairly simple jobby.

What do you think?

Mate to be honest i would have done ALOT og things different to what i did..

Firstly i wouldn't have brought a turbo kit.

I would buy a Genuine Garrett t4/t3 turbo using the cast manifold.
I would use GRA gear still as i find it the best.
I would have done all the work myself and fitted the intercooler first up getting rid of two dyno tunes and only getting one with a desired boost etc.
I would have pulled my engine out first up and took the head off check for cracks and shit and make sure it's all good and go double valves springs.
Then i would have fitted a Safari Tuff Clutch and put it all back in and then bolted everything up then got a 3" exhaust put on with a resniator and got it dyno'd etc and been all done.

I think i have done alright in the end as i have got a brand new head now

I got a new water pump, brand new AMS or something brand head, new valves and springs new guides new everything really no head work also got a graphite head gasket kit with fire ring o ring or something.. new head bolts and also a sensor to connect to my horn in case my water in the radaitor goes below a certain level and cooks the engine and fark the new head.. all comes with 1 year warranty/10,000 KMS against cracking or anything and gasket kit came with 3 year 60,000kms agianst blowing etc etc.

I'm going to clean the block up tonight and start fitting tommorow and put some oil throw it and clean a thing bit of water etc in out and then do a complete oil change with new spark plugs and new oil filter .

That's were i'm up to and if anyone finds the need to bagging out what i have done so far can u just keep it to ya self becuase bogged i don't see u helping in anything u say on the forum apart from "search" or some bullshit whenever anyone asks a new questions isn't this forum here for this type of use asking questions etc etc and u seem to find it frustrating as ur been here since stone age and seen every question asked and answered ..

Cheers

Rick.

Good on ya Mulisha, I reckon you have done a good job for ur first go.

Unfortunately I think you just need to ignore the bagging and take onboard all the good info you have been given.

Dazza

Any reason you would rather a cast manifold?

azzad wrote:Good on ya Mulisha, I reckon you have done a good job for ur first go.

Unfortunately I think you just need to ignore the bagging and take onboard all the good info you have been given.

Dazza

Cheers mate i sure ahve learnt alot from this bad and good.

When i first thought about the turbo option i asked the guy over the phone "so do i my extractors and have the turbo on my carby side"?

I learnt alot along the way and plan on learning alot more.

Cheers

Rick.

Jimbo wrote:Any reason you would rather a cast manifold?

Way cheaper option compared to my stainless tunned length manifold and to gain that little amount or whatever it did in the end really wouldn't be worth IMHO rather go ballbearing turbo upgrade and pay for the new clutch..

Cheers

Rick.

i think you will find the turbo will void any warranties

Rick,

I am in awe at what you have achieved..my question was not bagging yours, coz secretly if I had the dosh I would want to go down the path too, but since I don't then I am trying to find an easy option.

Also trying to satisfy myself of a nagging question as to what a td4.2 turbo and manifold would do for ( or not) a petrol 4.2. I read somewhere that it was thought the standard turbo diesel setup if used on a petrol motor would not have enough puff. I thought well it improves the diesel so it should improve the petrol and as the manifolds bolt up it has to be an easy setup..EFI manifold (4500 as they are better designed to getting at plugs etc compared to the GQ...should fit the head as well???)

Even if it only gave a quarter what you achieved I would be happy, compared to the slug of carby petrol I have now.

Any hoo..don't know of anyone that has done what I am thinking..so I will just keep living the dream.

GRINCH wrote:i think you will find the turbo will void any warranties

told the guy i had a turbo and ran 15psi boost and he reakons it will be fine ..

i can only take his word for can't i .. he seemes quite nice really..

Rick.

RoadNazi wrote:Rick,

I am in awe at what you have achieved..my question was not bagging yours, coz secretly if I had the dosh I would want to go down the path too, but since I don't then I am trying to find an easy option.

Also trying to satisfy myself of a nagging question as to what a td4.2 turbo and manifold would do for ( or not) a petrol 4.2. I read somewhere that it was thought the standard turbo diesel setup if used on a petrol motor would not have enough puff. I thought well it improves the diesel so it should improve the petrol and as the manifolds bolt up it has to be an easy setup..EFI manifold (4500 as they are better designed to getting at plugs etc compared to the GQ...should fit the head as well???)

Even if it only gave a quarter what you achieved I would be happy, compared to the slug of carby petrol I have now.

Any hoo..don't know of anyone that has done what I am thinking..so I will just keep living the dream.

I reakon u should invest in a different turbo for it and use the stock manifold as it will peform fine..

Other then that it should go good !

U will be surprised what a $180 delivered intercooler and extra 6psi does

Rick.

Mulisha wrote:That's were i'm up to and if anyone finds the need to bagging out what i have done so far can u just keep it to ya self becuase bogged <snip the teary eyes part>.

plenty of people gave you advice and it obviously wasnt what you wanted to hear, so you ignored it.. why should I care?

Dude, if you want the engine to live, change tuners. 15lbs on an 8.2 comp ratio is about 10.5 comp ratio on boost. On gas it should handle about 25 degrees of total timing all day IF it is fueled corectly. LEAN IS DEATH. I see this far to often working on turbo combo`s WOZ WMmotorsport 32051951

I was going to run the cast manifold but it places the turbo too close to the firewall (IMO) and also my tuned length manifold was only a bit more than most of the cast ones. I do agree with your ballbearing turbo. I thought u did get a ballbearing garret in your package!!!

Hopefully the head was on its way out anyway and its failure wasn't due to the tuning. There was a fully rebuilt motor with 5000km advertised on here a couple of days ago that you should buy instead of getting the head relplaced. Probably work out cheaper and you will have a motor that is in a lot better nick

Anyway keep us posted

Jimmy


PS: Do you still ahve that sump?

bogged wrote:

Mulisha wrote:That's were i'm up to and if anyone finds the need to bagging out what i have done so far can u just keep it to ya self becuase bogged <snip the teary eyes part>.

plenty of people gave you advice and it obviously wasnt what you wanted to hear, so you ignored it.. why should I care?

You remind me of this manager at work a few years back.

He disappeared one day.

And all ran well after that.

rOd wrote:

bogged wrote:

Mulisha wrote:That's were i'm up to and if anyone finds the need to bagging out what i have done so far can u just keep it to ya self becuase bogged <snip the teary eyes part>.

plenty of people gave you advice and it obviously wasnt what you wanted to hear, so you ignored it.. why should I care?

You remind me of this manager at work a few years back.

He disappeared one day.

And all ran well after that.

WOZ wrote:Dude, if you want the engine to live, change tuners. 15lbs on an 8.2 comp ratio is about 10.5 comp ratio on boost. On gas it should handle about 25 degrees of total timing all day IF it is fueled corectly. LEAN IS DEATH. I see this far to often working on turbo combo`s WOZ WMmotorsport 32051951

In 1 of PGS previous posts, his own tune on hise car was running 13deg at full boost.
I am curious how you can safely run 25
The tb42 is not like the more advanced import motors which can handle this

ive seen chapmans run a lot more then 25