Page 10 of 23
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 12:26 pm
by GRPABT1
It would make sweet fark all difference though I'd imagine, especially on a modified rig.
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 12:57 pm
by Moph
Have been looking into aerodynamics in the last few days to see whether an air deflector at the front of the bonnet would be 'worth' anything on my trip to Perth. Came to the conclusion that it's not worth anything but found the following document by Kenworth that is very interesting reading.
http://www.kenworth.com.au/kenworth/pdf ... _Guide.pdf
Of particular interest were their findings that an aero bumper is worth 2%, sloped hood 2% and flush headlights 0.5%. So yes, recontouring a given projected frontal area to make it 'slipperier' certainly does help economy, but it's a package deal to get any kind of real-world improvement. Adding an air deflector might help keep bugs off the windscreen but won't significantly improve economy.
The biggest differences were the fitment of a full roof deflector in front of the trailer (5-10%) and side extenders to minimise truck/trailer gap (1-7%).
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 1:36 pm
by PCRman
In my case I had a lift fitted that lifted the rear more than the front. This meant that my hood, windscreen and roof angles were shifted more to the vertical, thus increasing my foward facing surface area and I seemed to use more fuel. Since fitting front spacers I'm more level (but still not stock front to back yet) and I've clawed back a few tenths of a liter per 100.
I agree that making significant gains would require an overall restructure.
No door handles, minimmise panel gaps, no roof rack or spotties, lowered, narrow low profile tyres, custom front bumper, some LED underbody lights.....wait a minute
I wonder how much difference putting a small rear spoiler on to try and reduce eddies at the back door might make
hehe
“Eddies,” said Ford, “in the space-time continuum.”
“Ah,” nodded Arthur, “is he? Is he?” He pushed his hands into the pockets of his dressing gown and looked knowledgeably into the distance.
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:25 pm
by GRPABT1
I'd say you'd gain more Highway mileage by fitting a torquier motor like an efi 1.6 or diesel
Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:02 am
by nicbeer
PCRman wrote:
hehe
“Eddies,” said Ford, “in the space-time continuum.”
“Ah,” nodded Arthur, “is he? Is he?” He pushed his hands into the pockets of his dressing gown and looked knowledgeably into the distance.
Hitchhikers guide?
Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:43 am
by PCRman
I laughed till i cried the first time i read that line.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 1:20 am
by ofr57
is crank scrapers go along the same theory as dry sump engines ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Crank-sc ... ccessories
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:46 am
by cj
ofr57 wrote:is crank scrapers go along the same theory as dry sump engines ?
No, but you can use them with a dry sump if you wish. They also do windage tray inserts for the G series engines.
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:11 am
by ofr57
cj wrote:ofr57 wrote:is crank scrapers go along the same theory as dry sump engines ?
No, but you can use them with a dry sump if you wish. They also do windage tray inserts for the G series engines.
are they actually a feasible product or just another hiclone
Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:14 am
by Gwagensteve
They're more of a drag racing thing - they stop the crank picking up oil at high revs and sapping power.
I don't think there's really much of an application in an off road motor.
Steve.
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:28 am
by GRPABT1
All good sumps will have a crank scraper, as mentioned they help keep the oil off the crank and prevent it sapping power. I can't see them being a bad thing in any application, that said I wouldn't bother adding one on a fourby.
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 2:47 pm
by GRPABT1
Ok what size bolts are WT drive shaft flange bolts?
My spacers came with the small nt size bolts.
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 3:08 pm
by sheps
GRPABT1 wrote:Ok what size bolts are WT drive shaft flange bolts?
My spacers came with the small nt size bolts.
10mm mate
Posted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 3:14 pm
by GRPABT1
thought so thanks.
Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:51 am
by thnk_again
hey guys i put a 2" lift kit in my sierra (leafs allround) now the sway bar doesnt reach the links any idea's?
Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:02 am
by Highway-Star
thnk_again wrote:hey guys i put a 2" lift kit in my sierra (leafs allround) now the sway bar doesnt reach the links any idea's?
When I bought my 40mm lift from ARB it came with spacer plates to go between the sway bar and the little verticel bits that hang down from the chassis at the front.
I was pissed off though, as I wasted $10 on the stupid things, and threw the sway bar out the back of the shed. I dont run a sway bar anymore. The only Sierra owner I know who runs a sway bar is my father, but considering he likes doing 5 point turns on the side of 30 degree+ hill climbs maybe he can justify it.
So yeah, spacers or ditch the sway bar altogether.
Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:59 pm
by GRPABT1
thnk_again wrote:hey guys i put a 2" lift kit in my sierra (leafs allround) now the sway bar doesnt reach the links any idea's?
What's a swaybar?
Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:37 am
by thnk_again
yea, drove it with out it on the road and it was awesome heaps better now with new springs and shocks,
another qestion what tyres?
i just want to use it to go fishing but i have to cross mudflats that are tidal and sand. i was thinking cooper sst? what you guys think?
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:10 pm
by ofr57
The older model swifts had the same motor as sierra's didn't they?, they where just east - west instead of north - south. there is no other spec difference is there?
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:12 pm
by ofr57
thnk_again wrote:yea, drove it with out it on the road and it was awesome heaps better now with new springs and shocks,
another qestion what tyres?
i just want to use it to go fishing but i have to cross mudflats that are tidal and sand. i was thinking cooper sst? what you guys think?
without gearing i would go somewhere around 29" tall and if your driving sand i would go a all terrain instead of a mud tyre
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 5:23 pm
by nicbeer
anyone know if a std sierra tailshafts will handle 2"sus and 1/2" transfer lift.
will it need spacers or new shaft with bigger uni/operating angle.
Posted: Sat Nov 29, 2008 5:36 pm
by sheps
ofr57 wrote:thnk_again wrote:yea, drove it with out it on the road and it was awesome heaps better now with new springs and shocks,
another qestion what tyres?
i just want to use it to go fishing but i have to cross mudflats that are tidal and sand. i was thinking cooper sst? what you guys think?
without gearing i would go somewhere around 29" tall and if your driving sand i would go a all terrain instead of a mud tyre
lol sandy mudflats
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:55 am
by Gwagensteve
nicbeer wrote:anyone know if a std sierra tailshafts will handle 2"sus and 1/2" transfer lift.
will it need spacers or new shaft with bigger uni/operating angle.
Should be fine so long as you don't have excessive axle wrap.
Steve.
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:37 am
by croatian4x4
i must be going blind.
What are the original Sierra WT tyre size and profile??
I can see the rim sizes in the bible but fail to see details on the yre sizes?
Cheers,
cw
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 12:30 pm
by Highway-Star
croatian4x4 wrote:i must be going blind.
What are the original Sierra WT tyre size and profile??
I can see the rim sizes in the bible but fail to see details on the yre sizes?
Cheers,
cw
205 / 70 R 15
Which if converted to imperial, is approximatly:
26 x 8 R 15
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 12:56 pm
by croatian4x4
Highway-Star wrote:croatian4x4 wrote:i must be going blind.
What are the original Sierra WT tyre size and profile??
I can see the rim sizes in the bible but fail to see details on the yre sizes?
Cheers,
cw
205 / 70 R 15
Which if converted to imperial, is approximatly:
26 x 8 R 15
Cheers mate
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:19 pm
by croatian4x4
Got 4.9s installed in my case now.... only just noticed that the 4wd indicator ball bearing popped out on the floor whilst i was fiddling around reinstalling the case. (dont ask how i managed thast :s)
Is it just a matter of lowering the case, removing the 4wd indicator switch and then "dropping the ball back in", or is there a special way that the little fella has to go in?
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 4:17 pm
by ofr57
i believe its as simple as you said ... but I'm not 100% since mine doesn't work
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:32 pm
by croatian4x4
ofr57 wrote:i believe its as simple as you said ... but I'm not 100% since mine doesn't work
Thanks mate, can anyone else confirm this?
Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 2:00 pm
by ofr57
Is there any reason that the link that connects the two steering arms together will flog out .. I've done 2 now