Outer Limits 4x4 Board

JAKE wrote:BUNDERA maaaaate just go into TOYOTA and ask for the toyota landcruiser mid wheel base 1988 model LX turbo badging...... i recon you might like these better as they come out with red or chrome lettering very (BLING BLING) bundera badging is the same

personally i woodnt bother cos if i owned your rig i wood keep it SLEEPER just to people and keep em guessin

at Jake...Yeeeeaaarrr mate every time I saddle up beside a Bundera/Middy I wonder whats under the bonnet Sleeper can I get rice wit dat.

Prob preaching to the converted... but Aussie Desert Coolers (vic, 03 9470 4449) do awesome custom crossflow 4 core tin or alu radiators that WORK.

.
.

also I think the BJ70/73 radiator is a bolt in to the bundy, it's 4 row and tuff.

what are you going to do with the 2L-T? I *might* have a buyer for it.

I want to sell it ASAP. Do you see the bling bling chrome pipe from the turbo to the inlet manifold?

blah dumb perth, too far away.


maybe you'll be lucky and sell it over there.

Skip wrote:I want to sell it ASAP. Do you see the bling bling chrome pipe from the turbo to the inlet manifold?

How Much. If its cheap enough i would be interested. I need to ship it to Brisbane though.

I have absolutely no idea how much it would be worth. However it runs great, just clicked over 100,000 kms (timing belt needs replacing). Would come with everything from the bellhousing (including clutch and flywheel) to the fan. Ill even throw the filter/primer in , also has aircon compressor and powersteer pump.

yo skip, start up a thread - 'skips bundy engine conversion'

Looking Good Skip.

If i were u I would take the plastic headlight surrounds off and the piece of metal that has the bonnet latch off.
Makes it a hell of a lot easier to work on.

Next time u take some pics, could you please take a general photo of the turbo set up from side on... that would be great.

Keep us posted,
Regards,

BlingBlingBundy Brother

edit:

Nick; dont cry man

Im currently getting my bellhousing etc. and flywheel made up by Dellow in Sydney, and was wondering what to do with regards to the clutch department. The largest diameter clutch I can use is 8.6", should I just go for a single plate, will it be good enough for approx 400 HP? Or should I go for a twin plate?

I don't want to use a button or puck as they are really crap to drive around daily, I dont think they would be much good for pulling my boat out of the water due to a major lack of slippage.

Comments and past experiences most appreciated.

Oh yeah, BUNDERA, my trim code is FG11.

Robbie I would be really appreciate that image to be taken off, some people find that offencive and I cant have that shit popping up at work!.

You reply has nothing to do with the topic. try general chit chat area.

Thanks for the trim code skip. Could u please take a photo of the sticers on the side of ur bus.
Cheers Nick
Nick

BUNDERA: Do you mean the big graphic on the side that says "Turbo Wagon"?

yeah thats the one skip.

Thanks Robbie

Nick

Could someone please tell me what these things are and do.

Attachment A: sits on the back of the alternator. Has a banjo fitting with two lines, one of which goes into B the other goes into C.

Attachment B: sits on firewall above brake master cylinder

Attachment C: sits on firewall below and to the drivers side of the master cylinder

Attachment D: next to front drive shaft and transfer case, has two lines, both go into B.

Thanks

C and D

prolly a vacume thingie for the brake booster, helps with the breaking etc etc

educated guess:

A = vacuum pump
B = vacuum regulators/check valves
C = vacuum actuator for brake booster unit
D = vacuum actuator for 4wd select. (SR5 style)

I don't know that A has anything to do with vaccum, the line was full of oil

I need to know if I can get away with not connecting the A thingy up again as the 1JZ obviously does not have one.

It's a vacuum pump, for your brake booster (and maybe your clutch - not sure).

It has an oil supply (fed from the block at engine oil pressure - this will be the smaller line) and oil drain to the block (this should be a larger line - drains at bugger all pressure), the tank looking thing is exactly that, a vacuum tank for storing vacuum (sounds weird I know), and the line going from the tank to the pump is the vacuum hose. 'B' (two switching valves) are prolly for the 4wd actuation (as mentioned) and the other would be for A/C idle up - one of the small (3-4mm ID) hoses goes to a vacuum bellows on the Injector pump to increase the idle.

Thanks for the help. So would my best option be putting the 2LT alternator on the 1JZ and connecting everything back to how it was?

BUNDERA: Do you have the same devices on your car?

Skip the petrol engine has Manifold vacume so you dont need to conect the deisel alternator.
As long as all the lines that go to the altinator are connected to the intake manifold you will be sweat. Obviously you dont conect the oil feed or return line.

And these-



Are for your Air conditioner. They increase the idle when the AC is on.

Well skip the only bits that I have on my car are B and D.

On my bundera I have the same looking setup as B and it is activated by the H4WD button on the dash. Most of the 4wd on a bundera is operated by vacume and those little doverlackies are what control it. A Simple way to check would be to plug ur battery back in, turn the key to on and press the button on and off. You should be able to hear them clicking. If you can then it is the same setup as mine.


As for D Wendle is right it is the Vacume actuator for the 4wd selction.

Ruff on my bundera I had a different vacume solanoid for the air conditioner to bump up the revs. It was definatly not one of those. I know the one u are talking about though but that was mounted next to the battery and doesnt look like this..


Hope this helps.

Regards,
Nick

Okay so this is what I need to do:

Leave the B's on the car as they are used for actuating 4wd selection from the dash mounted button in the car, and hence leave the two vacuum lines from D plugged into B. Block up the other two vaccum lines going into B which were originally used by A. Ditch the C thingy and use my 1JZ alternator. Dont worry about aircon idle as my Haltech will control the aircon idle.

Sound right?

Cheers

Sounds good to me skip? Any other opinions?

Nick

Im beginning to get really frustrated with the amount of time it is taking for my Bellhousing and flywheel to be finished, really holding things up. Maybe I will be finished by early November.

Heres a pic of my home made surge tank with Bosch 044 Motorsport pump mounted, thought you guys might be interested. Ive got it mounted next to the transfer case on the passenger side, probably not the best location for all you hardcore 4WD's due to it being pretty low (water), but is good for my purposes. My bellhousing and flywheel will finally arrive next week, so hopefully the conversion will be complete early - mid November.

Oh yeah I ripped out "C" today and crossed over the two lines on "B". All i need to do is to plug the brake booster line into the manifold. I think I saved 300g, should go heaps quicker now