Outer Limits 4x4 Board

what about these old school big puppies

do we need a kill switch for TT?

UZJ40 wrote:do we need a kill switch for TT?

Did you read the FIRST POST??????????????????

you could run a continious duty solenoid witch will handle the current draw and just have you red switch to turn the solenoid on and off

sierrajim wrote:

These are crap. Not rated for enough current draw.

I disagree.
I've put 511 amps through mine without problems. It is rated at 500amps for 5 seconds and 100 amps continuous on 24v.

Yo can buy larger versions which have a 5 second rating of 1200amps and continuous of 150amps on 24v.

The manufacturer of mine is Menbers of italy.
Their catalogue is a 10mb download: http://www.menbers.it/pdf/cat930_226_00.pdf

KiwiBacon wrote:

sierrajim wrote:

These are crap. Not rated for enough current draw.

I disagree.
I've put 511 amps through mine without problems. It is rated at 500amps for 5 seconds and 100 amps continuous on 24v.

But the contacts are crap quality - I'm just about to replace one because of the dodgy contacts.
AFAIK kill switches have been required for the last few TTC's - the last 2 at least.
And I noticed someone above said they were looking to mount on their bullbar - that's hard for driver/navi to reach when harnessed into position
Lastly we wired ours off the negative, but so it kills EVERYTHING including the winch......basically my thoughts are if there is an electrical problem I'd like to shut everything down.

KiwiBacon wrote:

sierrajim wrote:

These are crap. Not rated for enough current draw.

I disagree.
I've put 511 amps through mine without problems. It is rated at 500amps for 5 seconds and 100 amps continuous on 24v.

Yo can buy larger versions which have a 5 second rating of 1200amps and continuous of 150amps on 24v.

The manufacturer of mine is Menbers of italy.
Their catalogue is a 10mb download: http://www.menbers.it/pdf/cat930_226_00.pdf

So how many amps would your vehicle draw with the following on at once doing a LONG winch at night:
-winch
-park lights
-thermo fan

Bearing in mind that you winch for more than 5 seconds at a time, if the switch fails your vehicle stops dead and you are not allowed to compete if you've bypassed the switch to keep going in the case of failure.

Wooders wrote:But the contacts are crap quality - I'm just about to replace one because of the dodgy contacts.
AFAIK kill switches have been required for the last few TTC's - the last 2 at least.
And I noticed someone above said they were looking to mount on their bullbar - that's hard for driver/navi to reach when harnessed into position
Lastly we wired ours off the negative, but so it kills EVERYTHING including the winch......basically my thoughts are if there is an electrical problem I'd like to shut everything down.

Just run two or three switches in series.
If any one of them gets pressed everything will still shut down.
And it wouldn't take too much more effort to run one on the b/bar as well as one in the cab as just one int he cab.

I have heard of a remote control activated kill switch. An offical gets the remote and if the car starts getting out of control (roll's or whatever) he can kill everything with a simple press of the button.
They wern't that expensive either.

Chucky wrote:

Wooders wrote:But the contacts are crap quality - I'm just about to replace one because of the dodgy contacts.
AFAIK kill switches have been required for the last few TTC's - the last 2 at least.
And I noticed someone above said they were looking to mount on their bullbar - that's hard for driver/navi to reach when harnessed into position
Lastly we wired ours off the negative, but so it kills EVERYTHING including the winch......basically my thoughts are if there is an electrical problem I'd like to shut everything down.

Just run two or three switches in series.
If any one of them gets pressed everything will still shut down.
And it wouldn't take too much more effort to run one on the b/bar as well as one in the cab as just one int he cab.

I have heard of a remote control activated kill switch. An offical gets the remote and if the car starts getting out of control (roll's or whatever) he can kill everything with a simple press of the button.
They wern't that expensive either.

They run these in Monster trucks to lessen the chance of one going over a barrier into the crowd in the case of a driver being knocked out.

sierrajim wrote: So how many amps would your vehicle draw with the following on at once doing a LONG winch at night:
-winch
-park lights
-thermo fan

Bearing in mind that you winch for more than 5 seconds at a time, if the switch fails your vehicle stops dead and you are not allowed to compete if you've bypassed the switch to keep going in the case of failure.

I don't have a winch wired through it, so it's a moot point.
If I did, I'd have chosen the bigger switch.

How many amps does your winch draw? Park lights and thermo fan would only be about 30.

I'm looking at the second or third, the prob the third on this page from narva although its a bit large for I wanted .......

http://www.narva.com.au/Switches_15.html

And I will be wiring straight from the Pos to the switch to the donk /puter etc..........winch will be hard wired to batt .......

the third one is the one that i have in my buggy Dan..and i have had no problems with it at all

dave

jst an update here,

ive decided with my rig, thati am going to run a continours duty solenoid rated at 200Amps, then have one of the red ket switchis in my cab, that way reducing the need to run 2m of extra battry cable into the cab,

i measured the amp draw on all my wiring on the battery and on start up it pulls 170amps, and running it pulls heaps less, so i shouldnt have a drama,

but i do have a drama finding 00 or 000B&S cable,

Shawn,

I ended up getting the one I mentioned above which is

250 amp continuous/ 2500 intermittent for 5 secs

But because of lack or space to mount this in easy access for driver/navi ....and also because of the exposed studs at the rear ....I have since bought another type .....

this one is rated @ 275amp continuous /1000 amp 10 secs, but is enclosed in a plastic enclosure that can be base mounted or through hole ( so the knob is only visible) ......and it was half the price of the first one I bought .......its only 70mm square x 90mm high and I can mount in a better posi .....

As for battery cable try a local welding shop and ask what size earth lead cable they keep ....this is flexible and most of the time double insulated ......Ive chased some up here 35mm2 in size for $7 a metre .......I was going to use some 70mm2 that I have @wrk but its physical size sucks ......

Dan

A1 wrote:

this one is rated @ 275amp continuous /1000 amp 10 secs, but is enclosed in a plastic enclosure that can be base mounted or through hole ( so the knob is only visible) ......and it was half the price of the first one I bought .......its only 70mm square x 90mm high and I can mount in a better posi .....

hey Dan where did you get this particular switch and is there an internet page??

Ashdown's over near the sunnyside pub @broadmeadow .........I got trade prices due to my work having an account there


I just found this link ...strange thing is they only say 250amp here where on the inside of the actual switch it has 275amp ....then when you open the spec sheet that comes with it it says 225amp lol


doesnt matter the Little Vit wont draw that much continuous anyway

http://www.matson.com.au/switch_master.html


Dan