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Suspension and body lift
Posted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 3:53 pm
by gucatpatrol
I have 2 inch suspension and 2 inch body and have ran 36 centipedes under it with some minor rubbing on the mud flaps until they ripped off but i have cooper stt 35" and thewy don't hit.
With the vibration trouble, my car suffered from it , once i put the spacers under the cross member for the trnasfer case it stopped them
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:03 pm
by Mulisha
Hi guys
Thanks for all your replys it's great doesn't make it easy to pick what i want though
Well guys i have decided that i want to lift 100% and i want to run 33's not 35's due to 35's scraping etc.
Lift wise i'm thinking 3" dobsion lift just not sure if i will need anything else.
http://www.4x4accessories.com.au/shop/i ... ucts_id=52
Not sure if i will need anything else with that sus lift like double cardin or anything or spacers etc etc etc (do i need anything else)
I don't know if i want a body lift or not becuase my 4wd gear leaver will pop out maybe and my bull bar will hang low and my rear step etc..
I'm not wanting to go mad on the car but i want to be able to keep up with my friends as there all got like 6" lifts and stuff and 35's..
Becuase mines a SWB and my friends have LWB and utes i don't want to go to high but i still don't want to be getting pulled out all the time.
So it doesn't sound like i'm beating arounf the bush all this time..
3" dobsion spring lift with 33's (not sure on tyre) with procomp shocks (not sure on what model). And then what ever else i might need ..
Here is a link to one of my friends car with a 6" lift 35's and rancho 9000's and just running castors bushs nothing else at all no panrods or draglinks nothing.. so i'm after my car to able to keep up with this...
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8212
With tyres i'm after a really grippy tire something that will grip and go well.. was thinking of a Micky Thompson Radial Claws just not sure how bad they would be on the road..
And not sure were to buy all the gear maybe that website i showed u or is there a store i can go to but this gear without being ripped off?
Also how much are those claws worth each and what else is a good tyre with good grip in a 33" MTZ? Or what about the procomp X terrain what price per tyre are they and they any good becuase i have no idea.
Thanks so much guys like i said i have really no idea but i don't want to spend huge amounts if it's not needed etc..
Thanks lots
Rick.
..
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 7:59 pm
by JemmyBubbles
33" MTR's
2" Sus, 2" Bdy Lift. (Can I stress keep the lift moderate... but whatever you choose you will deal with I am sure)
Armour everything up... you want to be able to slide over things.
Do a rear quater chop, wrap a bar around. Get some sliders on nice and high. Get a nice tube bar and tuck it up nice and high. If you feel extra keen throw a whole bunch of bash plates on underneath to further help with sliding over things.
Will be what I do if I get my time over.
Also with that lift combination you will have more than enough clearance for 35's. I run 35's with 4" suspension no gaurd chop up front and a 1/4 chop in the rear. Could even fit 36" pedes with a bit of a chop upfront.
Like I said I would never do anything over a 2" suspension lift in a shorty again.
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:09 pm
by Mulisha
Cheers mate for the reply
I kinda wish i didn't have a SWB now becuase i don't want to chop the guards becuase i don't like the look of the square cut quarters.
If i did do a 2+2 and 33" claws or something like that nice and grippy and a factory rear diff lock would i be able to keep up with my friends with 6" lifts 35's..?
I just hate to be the one stuck i want to be able to keep going through hard shit..
Cheers
Rick.
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:30 pm
by Bingham
get into it bud.... prob see you around the coast somewhere...
suggest micky t mtz's over claws if you will be doing a fair few kms commuting...........
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:45 pm
by Doggy
Mulisha wrote:Cheers mate for the reply
I kinda wish i didn't have a SWB now becuase i don't want to chop the guards becuase i don't like the look of the square cut quarters.
If i did do a 2+2 and 33" claws or something like that nice and grippy and a factory rear diff lock would i be able to keep up with my friends with 6" lifts 35's..?
I just hate to be the one stuck i want to be able to keep going through hard shit..
Cheers
Rick.
You'll end up having to cut the guards when you fark them anyway so just do it now to avoid the damage later on.
It happened to me. I didnt cut the guards, then I slid onto a rock that bashed in my rear 1/4 panel and damaged it a fair way up. Had I chopped the guards beforehand, it would have missed
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:52 pm
by orsome
HEY thats my patrol with the 6 inch
but yeah imma not really stubourn i just and a tight ass that this if i am stupid enough to put a 6 inch suspention lift with 7 inch shocks i need to make sacrifices
also i extended breather hoses unbolted the brake lines ( verry tempory thing) so it didnt snap umm 7 deg caster plates it is running -1 atm witch isnt to bad but with the panards it has put it out buy 3 cm that ill need to fix at some stage SOON but i just didnt bother for now um the uni's in the tail sharf i will prob replace every say 20 thousand or so ill have a look at the wear and i will prob go though and replace most of the rubbers but it sounds i was lucky becasue i got hardly any vibration
with me mates shorty i thought the best would be 4 inch suspention and make some nice rock slider bars to help the body i have neva been a big fan of body lifts just putting things out. but u need the panards. but with 4 inch all up what eva way u go hsoulnd need to cut the guards if ur only goin 33's
another mate with a short has 5 and a half inch lift with stock brake lines (wich push it) and he just got panards and everything is fine with 0 vibration so i guess its just luck.
and what eva u choose ill help put em in it fun and easy as i wanna see u out hear 4bien with us and pullen the toyota's out
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:52 pm
by Mulisha
Bingham wrote:get into it bud.... prob see you around the coast somewhere...
suggest micky t mtz's over claws if you will be doing a fair few kms commuting...........
Yeah mate i can't wait to get out there but i just don't know what to do
Was woundering maybe what nastytroll said would be any good?
nastytroll wrote:Best results with minimal expense would be 3" dobinson hd swb springs 2" body 15mm cross member spacers 13mm front arm spacers caster bushes drop rear bump stops 50mm may need longer slave cylinder flexable line lengthen top rear trail arms by 20mm
if you want major flex weld 4" nominal bore pipe 100mm long onto uderside of top rear spring mount n run clamp plate on diff side of spring with bump stop dropped you can run 790mm rear shocks without loosing your springs. running 33"s n difflocks you will go where ever you want
with 3" lift you can put rear flexy brake line from rear diff to front n get one made longer for rear
if you do a body lift make sure you roll the rear inner gaurd inward from under seat belt bolt hole to the rear or you will slice the tyre side wall
do you reakon if i did that above ^^^ would i be able to keep up with my friends?
Kinda wish i didn't have a swb
Some pics of my friends rig
6" lift 35's and rancho shocks. (this is what i want my rig to be able to keep up with I WISH
).
Thanks a million
Rick.
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:56 pm
by Bingham
Doggy wrote:Mulisha wrote:Cheers mate for the reply
I kinda wish i didn't have a SWB now becuase i don't want to chop the guards becuase i don't like the look of the square cut quarters.
If i did do a 2+2 and 33" claws or something like that nice and grippy and a factory rear diff lock would i be able to keep up with my friends with 6" lifts 35's..?
I just hate to be the one stuck i want to be able to keep going through hard shit..
Cheers
Rick.
decent rocksliders will be sufficient in combination with rear/tow bar and you should be fine on most stuff.... worth there weight in gold... i didnt want to chop mine either on the old gq and in 3 yrs kept them a1 and sold original clean truck to an old boy for a premium... keep them original if thats what you want and it certainly wont hurt re-sale market....
You'll end up having to cut the guards when you fark them anyway so just do it now to avoid the damage later on.
It happened to me. I didnt cut the guards, then I slid onto a rock that bashed in my rear 1/4 panel and damaged it a fair way up. Had I chopped the guards beforehand, it would have missed
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 8:58 pm
by Nelso
As I've said before I wouldn't worry about the body lift for 33's as a 2" spring lift should clear them. If you do go the 3" lift, I would go for some drop boxes or drop arms that move the front diff forward 30mm too. As for the rear quarter chop, everyone does them because your sills and rear quarters are a magnet for panel damage.
A shorty with a two inch lift, front and rear lockers and good armour (ie bars and sliders), driven well, will go as many places as a LWB with big lift and no lockers. You'll find he might do some things better but overall you will have the better car.
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:04 pm
by Mulisha
Nelso wrote:As I've said before I wouldn't worry about the body lift for 33's as a 2" spring lift should clear them. If you do go the 3" lift, I would go for some drop boxes or drop arms that move the front diff forward 30mm too. As for the rear quarter chop, everyone does them because your sills and rear quarters are a magnet for panel damage.
A shorty with a two inch lift, front and rear lockers and good armour (ie bars and sliders), driven well, will go as many places as a LWB with big lift and no lockers. You'll find he might do some things better but overall you will have the better car.
Oh ok i was planning on bolting/welding some plate or something for back end and sliders will be on as well.. also wouldn't mind putting on diff bash plates as well..
I thought just a 2" sus would be WAY to small for any decent 4wding.. IMHO That's why i thought a 4" would be the way to go but isn't by the looks of it just proves me so wrong lol...
Rick.
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:32 pm
by Bingham
keep it simple bud.... do your 3 inch lift frist and go from there...
i suggest get lovell's (normal duty) 3 inch springs (i have hd and a bit stiff in gu wagon) and whatever shocks, just bend brake brackets and get somewon to fit superior castor bushes for you..... at this height clears 33's or 305's with lots of room... and with your locker you will have no dramas keeping up with mates
then IF need be...
do your 2 inch body lift one wknd with a fair bit of patience and prob if you do a few beach runs start wd 40 ing the nuts on all body bolts now.. cab can get a bit noisy and extra heat in.... wish i had done a better job of sealing as such around gear stick boots and body bolt wells...
i never did any of that spacing sh@t and ran 35's no probs and ran 1.5 inch blocks and 4 inch spring... and as mentions particularly as pressuming rims are standard nissan offset a bit of extra rub on rear inner guards will happen... there is near the bump stop from memory about a 10 mm protruding peice of steel to grind and also tap with mallet the inner arch skin so when minimal scrub there are no sharp objects......
remember to finish it off you will need to lift bars front and back with body lift.(pain in ass unless your clever that way)
and yes body lift makes them warmer inside and noisier if not done properly and is a pain in ass then opens up water paths into car etc etc and i wouldnt do one again if money wasnt the issue but they are cheap..
plan c.......... if there is any chance you will get a big spring lift in future (say if running 35's 37's) simply spend the dollars now on panards drop boxes brakelines etc and just forget body lift and get 4 inch springs/ do it properly... then lift is simply new springs shocks and a few adjustments in future..
being "legal" then is an issue i wouldnt loose sleep over it and no one else does...
3 inch lift on mine is more than ample for what i use it for and sounds much the same as your needs.... more than capable and plenty of clearance. and yes i relise gq guards probly not as roomy but not a major issue....
prob is half the lifts we see have sagged so spring choice very impt....mine in 60k havnt moved at all..
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 9:40 pm
by Mulisha
Thanks alot for that mate!!
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:43 pm
by orsome
um i was talkin to him about tyres and a mate has brought some barja claws and they are meant to be 35 /13.5 /15 but when he has mesured then there 36.5's is this just different measuring syster and will 33 mt's be like 34's or so and comments ???
also he has some mudstar mt's atm and they say 33/12.5 on the tyre and u measure my 31/10.5/15's i have and there the same width (his are about 10.5 - 11)
so yeah is it just diff brands are measurd diff or what
Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:07 pm
by procompman
Mulisha if i was able to drive my mav i would come and get you and take you out to glasshouse and show you what a 2 inch sus + 2 inch body block will do. I bet i could go where your mate with his 6 inch lift goes and no panel damage as for tires the procomp Xterrains 33/12.5/15 cost me $350 each they are good on road and good offroad if you want to play in mud all the time forget them go the mud terrain. The Xterrain is more of a rock tyre.
When my wrist gets better i will let you know when i am going out to glasshouse.
Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 7:02 pm
by Mulisha
procompman wrote:Mulisha if i was able to drive my mav i would come and get you and take you out to glasshouse and show you what a 2 inch sus + 2 inch body block will do. I bet i could go where your mate with his 6 inch lift goes and no panel damage as for tires the procomp Xterrains 33/12.5/15 cost me $350 each they are good on road and good offroad if you want to play in mud all the time forget them go the mud terrain. The Xterrain is more of a rock tyre.
When my wrist gets better i will let you know when i am going out to glasshouse.
Cheers mate
I'm really consdering at this point in time a 3" Dobsion lift with procomp shocks and 33's of some sort.. not 100% sure yet..
Rick
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 4:24 pm
by tna racing
3 inch springsare just about the same price as 2 inch order king sping 3 inch and u will love it and longer shokkies of course
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:37 pm
by Mulisha
Cheers
Well i think i have decided ...
A 3" lift of somesort dobsion or king not sure what would be better.
Procomp shcoks not sure on what model.
And 33" tyres i was thinking the Micky Thompson MTZ's they look very mean and good looking
Can anyone tell me were i could pick this gear up from becuase i want to try save some $$$ with getting good deals to save up for a front locker then i have a front and rear factory.
Also with the 3" do i need gearbox spacers,double cardin,panrods, castors and all that stuff?
Cheers
Rick.
How much do those MTZ's cost roughly by the way?
Rick.
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:42 pm
by tna racing
nope just coils and shocks for 3 inch. id go longer brake lines 2 play it safe efs xtremes are a great shock
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:44 pm
by Mulisha
adam penfold wrote:nope just coils and shocks for 3 inch. id go longer brake lines 2 play it safe efs xtremes are a great shock
oh ok sweet mate remember it's a SWB not LWB.. so i have more problems
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:46 pm
by tna racing
yer true id still go wif wot i sed shouldnt cuase any problems
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:48 pm
by Bingham
wouldnt hurt to call big ryano at fouby's regarding all from lift to rubber pricing.... just mention o/l and see what he can come up with... looks after all the lads very well.....
0738922766
also you willl need to do castor bushes not need panards and not sure on double card- would not think so but..
mark
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:50 pm
by Mulisha
Thanks alot mate!!
Were is this guy located im in Sunshine Coast QLD near Brisbane.
Be good if i got it all off him becuase i would want 4 tyres and the suspension stuff.
Cheers
Rick.
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 8:59 pm
by Bingham
Mulisha wrote:Thanks alot mate!!
Were is this guy located im in Sunshine Coast QLD near Brisbane.
Be good if i got it all off him becuase i would want 4 tyres and the suspension stuff.
Cheers
Rick.
in marooka/brissy..... he may be able to organise freight if you desperate otherwise just call him for a chat and maybe drop down..
the resident rubber god!
my mtz's now got 35 000 on them and going strong
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:01 pm
by Mulisha
Bingham wrote:Mulisha wrote:Thanks alot mate!!
Were is this guy located im in Sunshine Coast QLD near Brisbane.
Be good if i got it all off him becuase i would want 4 tyres and the suspension stuff.
Cheers
Rick.
in marooka/brissy..... he may be able to organise freight if you desperate otherwise just call him for a chat and maybe drop down..
the resident rubber god!
my mtz's now got 35 000 on them and going strong
Do you have 33" MTZ's? and what u pay for them? They fit on 15x8 rims?
Thanks
Rick.
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:11 pm
by Nelso
Mulisha wrote:Cheers
Well i think i have decided ...
A 3" lift of somesort dobsion or king not sure what would be better.
Procomp shcoks not sure on what model.
And 33" tyres i was thinking the Micky Thompson MTZ's they look very mean and good looking
Can anyone tell me were i could pick this gear up from becuase i want to try save some $$$ with getting good deals to save up for a front locker then i have a front and rear factory.
Also with the 3" do i need gearbox spacers,double cardin,panrods, castors and all that stuff?
Cheers
Rick.
How much do those MTZ's cost roughly by the way?
Rick.
Don't need a double carden for 3 inch lift. But you will eventually have to change control arm length (better option) or space gearbox to get rid of driveshaft vibration. It's not urgent though, you will still be able to drive it around as soon as you change springs and shocks, it will just hum at certain speeds and steer more directly until you get around to changing uni angles and caster.
Dobinson and King springs are both quality, just check their rating and order the right ones for your needs.
Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 9:17 pm
by Mulisha
Nelso wrote:Mulisha wrote:Cheers
Well i think i have decided ...
A 3" lift of somesort dobsion or king not sure what would be better.
Procomp shcoks not sure on what model.
And 33" tyres i was thinking the Micky Thompson MTZ's they look very mean and good looking
Can anyone tell me were i could pick this gear up from becuase i want to try save some $$$ with getting good deals to save up for a front locker then i have a front and rear factory.
Also with the 3" do i need gearbox spacers,double cardin,panrods, castors and all that stuff?
Cheers
Rick.
How much do those MTZ's cost roughly by the way?
Rick.
Don't need a double carden for 3 inch lift. But you will eventually have to change control arm length (better option) or space gearbox to get rid of driveshaft vibration. It's not urgent though, you will still be able to drive it around as soon as you change springs and shocks, it will just hum at certain speeds and steer more directly until you get around to changing uni angles and caster.
Dobinson and King springs are both quality, just check their rating and order the right ones for your needs.
Thank you so much for that mate i'm so glad i'm getting somewere now LOL.
I just hope the 3" and 33" MTZ's (i think) will let me keep up with my friends and won't let me down.
Cheers
Rick.
Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:33 am
by nastytroll
Dobbinson do hd n extra hd, go the hd 3" rides beautiful
when i pulled out my 5 year old 6" hd dobbo's n changed to 7" kings (6" went into the girls car) after a week the 7" kings were the same height as the 5 year old dobbo's, I'll stick with dobinson on all future builds
Also have 4" kings under my gq extra cab it has bump steer on road n they are a real harsh ride n rough off road transfers all bumps n nocks through steering wheel dobbo's just soak them up n no bump steer even on bigger lift
Other people may have had different results Ive heard good things about lovells n ride pro's maybe some one has used them n can shed some light on them
Most people I know competing are using dobinson springs on patrols/mavs doing winch challenge, Tough tracks n superier alterain challenge might pay to ask aroung the comp scene for other opinions on spring brands
Hope this helps instead of confusing, I have no affiliation with Dobbinson just have had a good run out off there springs on several different trucks
Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 6:39 am
by Mulisha
nastytroll wrote:Dobbinson do hd n extra hd, go the hd 3" rides beautiful
when i pulled out my 5 year old 6" hd dobbo's n changed to 7" kings (6" went into the girls car) after a week the 7" kings were the same height as the 5 year old dobbo's, I'll stick with dobinson on all future builds
Also have 4" kings under my gq extra cab it has bump steer on road n they are a real harsh ride n rough off road transfers all bumps n nocks through steering wheel dobbo's just soak them up n no bump steer even on bigger lift
Other people may have had different results Ive heard good things about lovells n ride pro's maybe some one has used them n can shed some light on them
Most people I know competing are using dobinson springs on patrols/mavs doing winch challenge, Tough tracks n superier alterain challenge might pay to ask aroung the comp scene for other opinions on spring brands
Hope this helps instead of confusing, I have no affiliation with Dobbinson just have had a good run out off there springs on several different trucks
Awersome mate thanks for that!
Do the Dobbinson HD springs make that bouncy un stable feeling when on the road or do they sort of settle down and allow u to drive on the road with a bit of comfort? Also i was told to get soft springs so when going through rough dirt road and stuff they will suck about alot of the bumps and stuff becuase i'm not after a rough ride really and i don't tow big heavy loads only a boat everyone now and again.
How should i PM about tyres becuase at the moment i have my heart set on those Micky Thompson MTZ's 33". But i don't want to buy them and find there a sh1t tyre down the track.
Cheers
Rick.
Posted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:27 am
by nastytroll
HD dobbo"s n pro comp shocks drive very well with no swaybars on road of road the drive awsome not bouncy,
Took a corner coming home from cruiser last time sign said 60km did 120km towing trailer n throwing it through corners however tight had no problem
Rachos are not valved heavy enough for patrols n have body roll issues as there is litte restriction when they are extending
As far as ride I'd say the dobbo's ride far better then std coils n give an almost race car feel with your turbo it will be an awsome rear wheel steerer if you want it to be. For example the long style speed bumps either bitumen or paved you could hit at about 90km get about a foot of air n land like on a pillow
The lite duty springs will wallow n suffer massive weight shift offroad not what you want on side angles also they have a tendensy to flip shortys backward on hill climbs as they bounce
Go the hd NOT the extra hd dobbo's
Ive heared good things about mtz's but never owned any, tyres are hit n miss some suit some cars n not others have to tryem n c