Outer Limits 4x4 Board

overkill wrote:
This all comes back to doing the job properly the diffs do have to be rotated to get all the angles correct so you do have to rotate the front diff but you MUST spin the knuckles back to keep the right castor angle. That in with conjuction of a high steer setup will make the car drive straight and have NO bumpsteer.
SAM

Sam mine has pretty reasonable flex in the front end, with minor clearancing of the yokes I have not had any issues with the lower joint binding (If it were jumped and the entire front dropped the full length of the shock it may bind) ..

stumped wrote:

bigsteve wrote:I was generally happy with my SPOA for a few reasons:
~ It was a cheap (about $850 Prof. fitted) lift to clear the 32's I had purchased
~ I never experienced any problems on road with bump steer, in fact with the rancho's turned up & the wider rubber it handled better than stock
~ It did give me heaps of clearance (Fitted Gregs 34's)
~ It was soft & flexed Ok

was this $850 just using what you already had, or did it include springs/shocks? i'm assuming it was purely for the conversion? works out to be a decent price if you have springs that are alright, but mine are shagged

This was just the conversion:
Drop Pitman arm, spacers, Spring perches, U bolts and labour.

love_mud wrote:

overkill wrote:
This all comes back to doing the job properly the diffs do have to be rotated to get all the angles correct so you do have to rotate the front diff but you MUST spin the knuckles back to keep the right castor angle. That in with conjuction of a high steer setup will make the car drive straight and have NO bumpsteer.
SAM

Sam mine has pretty reasonable flex in the front end, with minor clearancing of the yokes I have not had any issues with the lower joint binding (If it were jumped and the entire front dropped the full length of the shock it may bind) ..

The transfer uni will bind up before the diff end. Every Zook we have measured that has a Sring over that we have fitted high steer to the castor has been out. Most of which would still drive okay as it wasn't a huge amount out but some were up to 5 degrees out which would mean that the high steer wouldn't actually fit as the tie rod will hit the spring.
SAM

I am sorta high steered .. (caster is currently stuffed due to bent spring\s) tracks a bit odd right now but is OK .. once I get a new spring pack iin there I will grab the angle finder and see where its at ..

Top uni joint is close but with some cleaanging works OK
I found I had more isue with the gearbox cross memeber I guess rotating the pinion would help with this ..

woohoo, I'm back for a day and my favourite topic is back too

The big thing with the spoa vs spua argument is the end use and ease of conversion. My big poblem with spoa is that it is preached as the be all and end all of conversions. For certain people and certain driving styles and terrains yes but it is not for everyone.

A well thought out spua is just as effective for cetain conditions as well. that is what needs to be looked at, what suits that person and their needs.

If you have the know how to do a spoa and understand the ramifications of the conversion then it is an easy and cheap mod, but it can also turn into a very expensive and ineffective one too. It used to be the case that there were more bad than good spoa being done, obviously as people have learnt from mistakes and had access to better inf they have improved.

A spua is a cheap and effective way to go as weel. All you need are some quality springs. Any backyard mechanic with an ounce of intelligence can swap some springs over in the backyard. you get a lift to fit bigger tyres, better ride from the better springs and none of the worries involved with steering etc mods.

So which is better?

Both, horses for courses.

All you people who say "Well have you driven a SPOA, because you don't know what you are missing?" I answer so have driven a well setup spua?
Mine, Gregs and LjExtreem handle and perform a hell of a lot differently than just a standard spua but also handle in a completely different way to a spoa. We are all running either 34 or 36" tyres, granted with body lifts and guard trimming, but the springs are basically just longer with no lift as we are running less leaves than a full pack. they are all flexy, can be driven on the road comfortably (well as comfortable as a Suzuki gets) and all perform pretty good offroad.

Are they better han a spoa? in our eyes for our use, yes. For everyone else, maybe not. But they aren't better or worse, just another option that shouldn't be discounted. If there was only one way to do things we would all be driving the same car with the same setup and that would be boring

Welcome back graham! We were sort of hoping you wouldnt find this topic!

grimbo wrote:woohoo, I'm back for a day and my favourite topic is back too

The big thing with the spoa vs spua argument is the end use and ease of conversion. My big poblem with spoa is that it is preached as the be all and end all of conversions. For certain people and certain driving styles and terrains yes but it is not for everyone.

A well thought out spua is just as effective for cetain conditions as well. that is what needs to be looked at, what suits that person and their needs.

If you have the know how to do a spoa and understand the ramifications of the conversion then it is an easy and cheap mod, but it can also turn into a very expensive and ineffective one too. It used to be the case that there were more bad than good spoa being done, obviously as people have learnt from mistakes and had access to better inf they have improved.

A spua is a cheap and effective way to go as weel. All you need are some quality springs. Any backyard mechanic with an ounce of intelligence can swap some springs over in the backyard. you get a lift to fit bigger tyres, better ride from the better springs and none of the worries involved with steering etc mods.

So which is better?

Both, horses for courses.

All you people who say "Well have you driven a SPOA, because you don't know what you are missing?" I answer so have driven a well setup spua?
Mine, Gregs and LjExtreem handle and perform a hell of a lot differently than just a standard spua but also handle in a completely different way to a spoa. We are all running either 34 or 36" tyres, granted with body lifts and guard trimming, but the springs are basically just longer with no lift as we are running less leaves than a full pack. they are all flexy, can be driven on the road comfortably (well as comfortable as a Suzuki gets) and all perform pretty good offroad.

Are they better han a spoa? in our eyes for our use, yes. For everyone else, maybe not. But they aren't better or worse, just another option that shouldn't be discounted. If there was only one way to do things we would all be driving the same car with the same setup and that would be boring

Very well thought out Grimbo. But SPOA is better.

Well i'm going throw another spanner in the works.GO COILS, THEY ARE EVEN BETTER ...

Jamie

mickbj42 wrote:SPOA done right is light years ahead of spua.

The problems i see are that people have a zook and get a small lift kit put in it plus a body lift so it already has about 4 inches of lift. Then they decide they want to go spoa but still wish to keep in the body lift and use the super stiff lift springs they already paid good $$$$ for. So after the spoa is done they end up with about 8 inches or more of lift and generally no widening of the wheel track. This equals a tippy pos.

Mine, Matts and Sams zooks are all SPOA, have the largest tyres by quite a few inches and are still lower, more stable and have more flex than most of the zooks on the board.

r they 80 series housings you are running

looks fat

Fourwheelin wrote:Well i'm going throw another spanner in the works.GO COILS, THEY ARE EVEN BETTER ...

Jamie

Sweet

get down low and go, go, go!

I luv reading these posts its like a comedy, where people in the nicest way tell each other they are wrong and that theirs is better.
a few take the diplomatic approach and say thet they both have advantages!

life is politics. you have to be nice to aholes

SPOA would be the go for ya(i rekon), but seing as ya rolled ya old rocky on the road (going a bit too hard possibly???) maybe keeping it low with standard height springs would be a good idea hahaha

lay80n wrote:SPOA would be the go for ya(i rekon), but seing as ya rolled ya old rocky on the road (going a bit too hard possibly???) maybe keeping it low with standard height springs would be a good idea hahaha

get back to ur diahatsu thread

would i go too hard on the road?? *looks innocent* i'm thinking 'bout lowering the zook and running 18" rims with major bling so i look good in the malls

stumped wrote:

lay80n wrote:SPOA would be the go for ya(i rekon), but seing as ya rolled ya old rocky on the road (going a bit too hard possibly???) maybe keeping it low with standard height springs would be a good idea hahaha

get back to ur diahatsu thread

would i go too hard on the road?? *looks innocent* i'm thinking 'bout lowering the zook and running 18" rims with major bling so i look good in the malls

And King St Maccas

damn straight! i want it low enuf that i have to take the driveway on an angle and still scrape. also been looking into one of those dummy BOVs where the recorded sound plays thru a speaker linked to the throttle

just get a compressor and BOV, then atatch a switch to you clutch so it will go off every gear. may sound dumb changing back but hey.

PS my zuk gets between the last post and the gutter at king st maccas. its a very funny act.