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Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 3:59 pm
by getdirty
Red Rover wrote:So the auto of the 4.5 v8 is the same as tb42 or tb45? Given the v pattern is the reason it has to be moved forward to clear the firewall?
From what I understand they are ver similar, also very similar to the box in 5 series bmw's.
And yes the V rather than I is the reason for mounting the motor forward.
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 4:14 pm
by turps
getdirty wrote:Red Rover wrote:So the auto of the 4.5 v8 is the same as tb42 or tb45? Given the v pattern is the reason it has to be moved forward to clear the firewall?
From what I understand they are ver similar, also very similar to the box in 5 series bmw's.
And yes the V rather than I is the reason for mounting the motor forward.
The auto then would it be possible to mod it to make it mate to the patrol transfer case, as I am starting to think that a half cut to get all the v8 and auto bits. + two transfer cases might be a fun thing to do. As it would leave the drive shafts standard and the shifter will just need some small mods to the relay shafts on the selector and new engine mounts. Then it's just the little things (wiring loom, accel cable, air con etc).
Also how has the fuel economy worked out to be ie how bad, thinking that it should be way better then the tb42.
Turps
Must stopping thinking cos it is only going to cost money I dont have.
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2003 4:26 pm
by getdirty
Possibly, the auto that came with mine has been hidden away at the back of the workshop since we got it. Haven't even looked at it!
Its all the little things than turn into the big things!
And yes the fuel economy is better than the TB42. Not heaps better but at least now it has the performance to match the fuel consumption. The weight in by right boot could have some effect on this too......
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 6:15 am
by Wendle
turps wrote:The auto then would it be possible to mod it to make it mate to the patrol transfer case,
you don't need to modify it as such, just bolt the patrol auto output housing and shaft to it.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 8:35 am
by MrMaxi
Another alternative is the VQ30det which is the other motor available for the infinity, it is also the same motor available in maxima's less turbo ofcourse and same family as the 350z, again no turbo on the 350z. It puts out 206kw (jap limit) so probally more than that. All alloy, in the states the VQ30DE has been voted leader in its class for the last 6 years.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 8:43 am
by getdirty
Good choice but........ will it fit? I know with the VH45 that custom manifolds and stuff had to be made to get past the chassis rails, how you gonna fit a turbo too!!!!
I spose there is always a way.......... these Canberra fools can do it...
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:35 am
by Wendle
getdirty wrote:these Canberra fools can do it...
with microns of room to spare even
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 1:14 pm
by Red Rover
what about the nissan godzilla motor with twin turbos, i thought someone would have done it by now with the 3 ltr gearbox, unless it doesn't fit. I heard they put out about 220kw! Maybe it doesn't have the torgue low down to turn 35's......
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 1:16 pm
by getdirty
That would be another good conversion and it would bolt up to the 3ltr gearbox (which is rather expensive!!!!). Only problem is the cost of the motors, $6k+ last time I checked......
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 1:37 pm
by Wendle
I don't think you can beat the VH45 for a swap. It is as simple as can be reasonably expected, if you are coo lwith runing an auto, there is no custom driveline adapting to be done, it is a comparitively cheap engine, and it has massive balls.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 1:56 pm
by getdirty
Balls get even bigger with a manual....
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 2:02 pm
by Red Rover
ok so use use the 4.5 v8 & factory auto it comes with and bolt it to the gq transfer case. Then all you do is position the motor forward to clear the firewall and remount cross member and lengthen rear tail shaft & shorten the front - have i got it right?
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 2:27 pm
by Wendle
you also need to get a patrol auto to get the output bits off. If you can get a cheap/free/fuct one you are laughing. then you need to wire all the EFI/ECU shit up, and etc, etc.. PM "hazard" on this board if you want definitive answers...
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:14 pm
by bogged
Red Rover wrote:ok so use use the 4.5 v8 & factory auto it comes with and bolt it to the gq transfer case. Then all you do is position the motor forward to clear the firewall and remount cross member and lengthen rear tail shaft & shorten the front - have i got it right?
Custom manifolds too ... its not going to be cheap as it sounds!
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 4:50 pm
by getdirty
Sandy is quoting the entire coversion at around $12k. Drive in drive out.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 7:57 pm
by turps
The exhaust manifold wouldn't be to bad I would have thought, an exhaust shop was quoted about $700 all up for custom extractors and a 2.5" system with hi-flow mufflers. When I was asking around 3yrs ago.
And since the auto bits can be bolted to it to the back of the VH45 auto, this makes this bit easy. Add in a Dual transfer case thing, and then the standard transfer case and cross member remains in the same spot (so no mods to the drive shafts).
My only reasoning to go the auto is that the half cuts come with it already, and it is already there and talks to the engine computer. Also it allows the engine to be pushed forwards into the enginge bay, with out having problems with the gear stick. As an auto uses relay rods (this is correct isn't it) which will just need to be extended.
Then if you get the dual case off marks ($1250), this should bolt up as if it is a standard GQ auto, then the standard transfer case after that and the cross member will be able to stay in the standard postions.
Which might keep the engineers and vic roads happy as not as much stuff is being modded (ie drilling bolt holes for new cross member postions).
It is starting to sound like a relative easy mod and much better than a chev conversion (cos it stays NISSAN).
Now just need to buy another car so I can pull the shorty apart. Oh also more money. Also need to take an auto for a drive off-road to see if I like that it or not (where's hetz's number)
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:13 pm
by Red Rover
Thanks guys i've got the idea - pity the firewall isnt flat - now an adaptor for the manual/auto would be cool
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:19 pm
by bogged
Red Rover wrote:Thanks guys i've got the idea - pity the firewall isnt flat - now an adaptor for the manual/auto would be cool
autos are more user friendly offroad anyway.
Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:34 pm
by Red Rover
Yeah i would like to go the auto as it picks all the gears, but i'm a lazy bastard!
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 6:03 am
by Wendle
turps wrote: Add in a Dual transfer case thing, and then the standard transfer case and cross member remains in the same spot (so no mods to the drive shafts).
I'm not sure you could move the engine forwards that much? You would need close to 200mm
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 8:51 am
by getdirty
Wendle wrote:I'm not sure you could move the engine forwards that much? You would need close to 200mm
Easy........
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 8:53 am
by getdirty
bogged wrote:autos are more user friendly offroad anyway.
This is debateable but they are more comfy!
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 8:56 am
by getdirty
turps wrote:The exhaust manifold wouldn't be to bad I would have thought, an exhaust shop was quoted about $700 all up for custom extractors and a 2.5" system with hi-flow mufflers. When I was asking around 3yrs ago.
Try at least $1000 just for the manifolds.....
turps wrote:Which might keep the engineers and vic roads happy as not as much stuff is being modded (ie drilling bolt holes for new cross member postions).
I didn't have a problem at all with moving the crossmember, just had to have all 4 bolts in.
turps wrote:It is starting to sound like a relative easy mod and much better than a chev conversion (cos it stays NISSAN).
I wish I could comfort you and say it was that easy......
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 9:39 am
by Wendle
getdirty wrote:Wendle wrote:I'm not sure you could move the engine forwards that much? You would need close to 200mm
Easy........
how would you go for clearance between the pinion and the sump?
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 9:55 am
by getdirty
My sump sits directly above the diff centre now, no clearance issues, but I have mounted the motor up really high, using the 3" body lift.
Bringing it forward even more would allow the sump to sit infront of the diff....
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 10:10 am
by Wendle
is your gearbox at standard height? hazard has his whole transmission lifted up as well, crossmember looks like ___/---------\___ sorta thing...
I would be trying to keep it low, especailly the 280kg of gearbox/t-case??
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 10:13 am
by getdirty
Mine is actually angled, front of the motor is up, back of transfer case is down. No vibe in tailshaft, but xfer case is a little more exposed than i'd prefer, ok for Vic driving though!!
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 10:15 am
by Wendle
the bottom of my t/case is ground flush with the chassis, bottom 2 bolts are now useless. Must finish that skidplate
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 3:07 pm
by Red Rover
Just a quick follow up do u thinks a twin turbo 2.6 or turbo 3ltr petrol will have the torque to turn 35 inch tyres. I know you can have motors with heaps of kw's but stuff all torque. Mine runs 4.3 diffs from a 3ltr. I read about a guy that did it, but he ran baby 10r's (how embarassing).
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 3:11 pm
by getdirty
Alison from Australian 4WD Specialist has a RB30ET (ex VL Turbo motor) in her shorty, running 35" XTerrains...... drives beautifully, and performance wise is around the same as mine.
Sure off road its not going to idle up hills but boost is around 2000rpm and its fine above that.....