Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thanks alot guys for ya help !!

PGS 4wd thanks mate for that info some i couldn't make sense of as i don't know that much about LPG really.. but a fair few things did make sense


Becuase i don't know alot i made a diagram in paint to show u is this how i ment to set these tanks up?


If my digram doesn't make sense let me knwo and i'll try make it better

Thanks alot for ya help

Rick.

The hydrostatic valve is supposed to be in the service line not the fill line, unfortunatly this is where it can present the problem to flow. The hydrostatic valve typically used consists of the "T" connector with a hydrostatic valve built in. The "T" connector consists of two one way valves that flow towards the oulet , it is these one way valves that stop the X filling of tanks, the hydrostatic part is a 3.55mPa valve like that in the gas tank that will vent the line should there be excessive pressure, this is due to the extra volume of fuel in the line.
If you can get two large one way valves this should satisfy the leagle requirement and work, try somewhere that does hydraulic equipment or air compressors, make sure the pressure rating is greater than the 3.55mPa of the hydrostatic.

Mulisha wrote:

Move the hydrostatic valve to where you've drawn the Tee piece in the line to the converter


You can get a Tee piece that will screw directly into your 'main tank ( or tank 1 in this case ) for the FILL side.
IE:
Filler neck----flexy line to Tee piec in tank 1 -----flexy line from tank 1's tee piece to tank 2.
( the way youve drawn it will work fine tho )





There should then be 2 SUPPLY lines,
one from tank 1
and
one from tank 2

These 2 supply lines should then be joined @ the hydrostatic valve......

Then from the hydrostatic valve, a single line to ya converter.




You wire it so you can flick between tanks ....... AND ........

if ya smart you can even set it up so you can select which tanks fuel level is shown on the dash guage

5core trailer flex works a treat for this.
1 wire for an earth
1 wire for lockout 1
1 wire for lockout 2
1 wire for sender 1
1 wire for sender 2

install another 3 position switch ( the same type you use to switch between tanks )
have the sender 1 wire to one terminal and sender 2 wire to the other terminal and then the centre terminal goes to the dash mounted guage.

the best way is to have the switches side by side..... & ...... when they are say both in the UP position they are working from the SAME tank !

Kingy

Well i couldn't find the thread when i was looking for it the other day anyway found it now..

I'm needing to set up this second tank ASAP..

I have a second tank that is out of date though but in good condition that i'm going to use i think.

All i need to do now is find out what fittings i need and stuff becuase that way i can order them off Viet and start getting this ball rolling.

In the pic below that PGS sent me i see how he has twin lines to the converter is that needed?

Also how do i work out what fittings i need? Do i need just the fittings that are shown in the pic below? I know with the flexiable hose i'll just grab a fair whack of it to be on the safe side..

I was looking at the fittings the other night and does that flexy hose just push inside the fitting then u just tighten the fittings which will then jam the hose tight inside?


That switch idea V8Patrol is great mate and i'll be doing that for sure!!

Running twin lines is there a gain from doing that even if there is only one line working at one time becuase i'll be switching from one tank to another.

Thanks alot guys for any help as like i said i wanna try have this done before the Expo at landcruiser park



Cheers

Rick.

You can't switch from one tank to the other, they must be simultaneous or there is no benefit to running two lines from a flow perspective.
Restriction to flow is length*Diameter so the fact that there is 4 m of twin line and 20 mm of single makes a huge difference.
You don't double flare copper(in victoria anyway), and I wouldnt use it on a 4x4 due to the vibration and the potential for the copper to crack.
The twin lines is needed if you want to make more than 180 rw kw approx. No one ever questions the need for big fuel pumps, its the same for gas the lines are like the pump, you cant fit a bigger pump as thats reliant on tank pressure, lean it out under big power and youll soon put holes in pistons.
Joel

One thing .........


the hydrostatic valve will be like a tee piece

2 supply lines IN....... one supply line OUT



if it arrives as a single in and a single out then its a one way valve only and that wont pass a RWC ( in Vic anyway ).

as I said in a previous post,
"just swap tha hydrostatic valve to where you have drawn the tee piece"

done







Kingy

V8Patrol wrote:One thing .........


the hydrostatic valve will be like a tee piece

2 supply lines IN....... one supply line OUT



if it arrives as a single in and a single out then its a one way valve only and that wont pass a RWC ( in Vic anyway ).

as I said in a previous post,
"just swap tha hydrostatic valve to where you have drawn the tee piece"

done







Kingy

Yeah mate that's what i was planning on doing untill PGS said that a single line won't be enough for a single converter as i plan to have *crosses fingers* 180rwkw or so in the near future.

I really wanted the idea of changing from tank to tank as that would so handy as i would use my 60L tank as a reserve to start heading for a servo if out in the bush.


I don't mind spending the extra $$$ to fit the extra gas line to the converter but i thought twin lines were only needed for when running twin gas converters


Also i PM'd Viet about getting hold of all the bits i need like flexi hose and fittings and hydrostatic valve etc and it seems he doesn't vist the board as much i once thought so do u know were i can get hold of these bits i need ..Online would be great ! Or even someone i can get a price list or something so i can get all the bits and get started this weekend.


Thanks alot for ya help

Rick.

Don't worry , I am still here, Just PM me for any LPG parts and I can post them to you.

viet667 wrote:Don't worry , I am still here, Just PM me for any LPG parts and I can post them to you.

Sent u a PM asking what bits i may need...


Becuase i'm guessing

1x Hydrostatic Vlave
2x T Pieces
2x Lockoffvalves

And i'll work out how much hose i need and then add a few metres on to make sure.


With the lockoff valves what do they look like i'll take a pic and see if guessed right.


Anyway i'll take a pic of my gas gauge becuase i kinda wanna find a better more accurate one if i can switch between tanks


Also running twin tanks how am i able to set up a fuel gauge becuase won't the gas be drainning from one tanks and giving the other one false readings...


Thanks alot

Rick.

Well here are some pics of the tank i want to use for a while and then chnage to a different tank in a month or 2 if i can't get it passed to be retested.

It's all surface rust and i'm going to re spray it just wanted to show u before i do so.

Also do i need some fittings to go in the tank?

With my gauge is there new type of gauge that i can use that will display what fuel amount i have in tank 1 and tank 2?










I also included a pic of how my gas lines are right now... i'm planning on putting the T pieces back a bit and running the extra lines from there up through my floor into my new gas tank.



Also is the type of fitings i will be using?




And last of all is this the lockoff valve that i need a extra one of or maybe replace both with better flowing ones

Also do i need to get a extra soliniode and all that stuff with this extra line?

I'm tossing up if it's worth running the extra line or not if i have to change and add alot more like lockoff's and stuff as i'm not a gas installer as u can tell and i'm trying to do this myself to save some $$$ to spend on other things i need like sliders and stuff.

This might not be the lockoff i have no idea..




Thanks alot everyone for ya help and addvice!!!

Cheers

Rick.

Looks like the tank is missing the Solenoid/ plunger assy and also the inlet and outlet fittings. That tank has been retested but it is possibly due for its 2nd one?
The gauge sender on that one will run a standard 90 ohm style gauge and they are available in a lot of types including Nissan in-dash types. They look a lot nicer than the ones that hang under the dash.

You have to decide whether you want to run twin lines for maximum performance and avoid possible lean out or like your first post suggests, use the 2nd tank as an emergency backup for when you run out, or to increase your range.
It is also possible to run 2 separate lines from the tanks feeding 2 lockoffs and 2 coverters, these lines will then be totally independant of each other and no need for hyrostatic Tee . Also 2 service taps can be fitted to a single APA tank for extra flow as well but how far do you want go with the high HP mods.
I suppose it depends on your driving style and what you want to achieve.

viet667 wrote:Looks like the tank is missing the Solenoid/ plunger assy and also the inlet and outlet fittings. That tank has been retested but it is possibly due for its 2nd one?
The gauge sender on that one will run a standard 90 ohm style gauge and they are available in a lot of types including Nissan in-dash types. They look a lot nicer than the ones that hang under the dash.

You have to decide whether you want to run twin lines for maximum performance and avoid possible lean out or like your first post suggests, use the 2nd tank as an emergency backup for when you run out, or to increase your range.
It is also possible to run 2 separate lines from the tanks feeding 2 lockoffs and 2 coverters, these lines will then be totally independant of each other and no need for hyrostatic Tee . Also 2 service taps can be fitted to a single APA tank for extra flow as well but how far do you want go with the high HP mods.
I suppose it depends on your driving style and what you want to achieve.

Thanks alot mate for that post...

Well not a complete pain in the bum but i'm chassing a bit of extra power as u know and the last thing i want is running my car lean.

So what i might do is try give ya ring this afternoon and order what i need so i can use that tank and then order all the other bits like extra gas line and twin lockoff valves and maybe second converter and all that stuff. What i'm trying to do is get as much out of my single converter as possible becuase isn't a big job rigging up twin converters?

Thanks alot mate for ya time.

I think i need solinoide for tank and inlet/outlet fittings, hydrostatic valve and T piece. And i'll get 5M of gas line or so.

I'll give ya ring this arvo as i was planning on doing it over the weekend so it's ready for the week end after but i might have to do it through next week after work.

Cheers

Rick.

Mulisha wrote:

V8Patrol wrote:One thing .........


the hydrostatic valve will be like a tee piece

2 supply lines IN....... one supply line OUT



if it arrives as a single in and a single out then its a one way valve only and that wont pass a RWC ( in Vic anyway ).


done






Thanks alot for ya help
Rick.

Dont confuse a hydrostatic valve with a hydrostatic ""T" connector, a hydrostatic "T" connector is a convenient replacement for a hydrostatic valve and two one way valves all combined, but they flow poorly!

Thats why you need to have the hydrostatic valve separate as in my drawing. The hydrotatic valve releases excessive line pressure (3.55mpa) just like the hydrostatic valve in the tank, it is deemed necessary due to the volume of fuel in two lines, expansion of gas etc etc. Using a valve only as opposed to a hydrostatic "T" connector is Vic LPG approved with two one way valves, effectively it is the same thing but you can select the size of the one way valves.
Joel

PGS 4WD wrote:

Mulisha wrote:

V8Patrol wrote:One thing .........


the hydrostatic valve will be like a tee piece

2 supply lines IN....... one supply line OUT



if it arrives as a single in and a single out then its a one way valve only and that wont pass a RWC ( in Vic anyway ).


done






Thanks alot for ya help
Rick.

Dont confuse a hydrostatic valve with a hydrostatic ""T" connector, a hydrostatic "T" connector is a convenient replacement for a hydrostatic valve and two one way valves all combined, but they flow poorly!

Thats why you need to have the hydrostatic valve separate as in my drawing. The hydrotatic valve releases excessive line pressure (3.55mpa) just like the hydrostatic valve in the tank, it is deemed necessary due to the volume of fuel in two lines, expansion of gas etc etc. Using a valve only as opposed to a hydrostatic "T" connector is Vic LPG approved with two one way valves, effectively it is the same thing but you can select the size of the one way valves.
Joel

Hey mate i'll send u a PM