Outer Limits 4x4 Board

If they are that expensive do you really want em on your little car anyway .. or is that more for the "bling bling chaple st factor" as they are likely to get squished anyway and once the fill with mud etc they are going to be a PITA to put back on ..

ozy1 wrote:4 tec screws per flare and a cordless drill kept in the car.

works for me !

love_mud wrote:If they are that expensive do you really want em on your little car anyway .. or is that more for the "bling bling chaple st factor" as they are likely to get squished anyway and once the fill with mud etc they are going to be a PITA to put back on ..

hense my reasoning for looking for an alternative...

awill4x4 wrote:Greg, like everything, dzus fasteners come in various styles and sizes.
Are you after removable dzus' or the spring loaded type which remain in place. We use dzus' all the time at work on the sprintcars we build and repair, if you're in the Carrum Downs area you can always call in to have a look at the various types available.
Another option, if you're drilling holes in you guards is to use nutserts or rivnuts as these will give a permanent thread you simply screw nuts into.
They are fixed to the panel using a special tool similar to a pop rivet gun.
They would probably be a cheaper option than dzus fasteners and much better than tec screws.
Regards Andrew.

I agree with this method, the nutserts (also called a polynut) are pretty cheap, you can get them in ally and gold passivate for corrosion resistance. I used to use the rivet gun style machine when I was a signwriter for installing the nutsert, but was a real pain in the long term, ended up using a modified air drill. Nowadays I don't have access to those tools, so I made up my own nutserter tool with a bolt, a few washers and the serrated nut from a dynabolt. Available in ISO metric and BSW (might be others available, but cost and stock will be a problem) so shouldn't be hard to locate some wingnut head bolts for quick release/fastening.

Ok what about making a hole like the attached pic to the body (Just realised it is upside down - the hole should be at the top with the slot pointing down). Then on the bracket on the flare have a bolt head that sticks out a couple of mms. Slot the bolt into the hole and let it slide down the slot. Easy to remove/put on, neat and cheap

grimbo wrote:Ok what about making a hole like the attached pic to the body (Just realised it is upside down - the hole should be at the top with the slot pointing down). Then on the bracket on the flare have a bolt head that sticks out a couple of mms. Slot the bolt into the hole and let it slide down the slot. Easy to remove/put on, neat and cheap

C L E V E R . . . . .

I know it's very 80's, but what about velcro?

Luis we have already discussed that on page 1 and Greg was completely underwhelmed by the whole scenario

grimbo wrote:Ok what about making a hole like the attached pic to the body (Just realised it is upside down - the hole should be at the top with the slot pointing down). Then on the bracket on the flare have a bolt head that sticks out a couple of mms. Slot the bolt into the hole and let it slide down the slot. Easy to remove/put on, neat and cheap

Great idea, but the reality of making an accurate slotted hole as pictured would be more difficult than the solution is worth. It would need to be punched, and getting the die base behind some panels might prove difficult.

I was actually thinking a little low tech. Get a big drill bit and make the large hole then use a smaller drill bit and make the slot with it. On something like Greg's or my Zuks, appearance is not the number 1 priority

grimbo wrote:I was actually thinking a little low tech. Get a big drill bit and make the large hole then use a smaller drill bit and make the slot with it. On something like Greg's or my Zuks, appearance is not the number 1 priority

Yep, I hear you. I agree, simplicity is always best.

Gaffa......

Otherwise... those thread (polynuts) would be ok, or bolts with wing nuts.

Is a 4WD not a cruise down chapel car

Remember:

appearance is not the number 1 priority

$2.35 aisle 4...

grimbo wrote:Luis we have already discussed that on page 1 and Greg was completely underwhelmed by the whole scenario

Sorry mate, jumped in a little late!

How about those "xmas-tree" plastic clips? Like what holds in place the plastic on the wheel-well etc...

AVGAS_502 wrote:$2.35 aisle 4...

Of course...and removable if only applied to one surface.

I just used some of the plastic door card clips, Drilled hole in the gaurd pushed female insert in and slid the male part on to the flare but shaved it down a little for easy removal, takes about 1 min to take off and about 2 min to but on and works great

Area54 wrote:

AVGAS_502 wrote:$2.35 aisle 4...

Of course...and removable if only applied to one surface.

...and it also 'rights' all wrongs

grimbo is the ideas man

Thanks for the suggestions guys...

There are a few good ideas in there, and at the moment the wingnut setup seems like the most ideal...

There are a few issues with the others - let me explain:

1. Velcro - the mounting surface on the car will be the actual panel - so i reckon that it won't look the best, plus after a day on the trails - the velcro is going to be choked with mud so it will be a bit of a pain.

2. press studs - this would work great if either the flare or the panel were flexible but i don't expect them to be very much so as one is fibreglass and the other is - well steel...

3. tech screws - i don't think it will work well over a period of time and will pretty quicky chew out the holes in the panel i suspect.

The other good thing with the wing nut (which was also the good part of using the dzus setup) is that they have the ability to clamp the two sufaces together a bit when mounted - this will be helpful since the panels don't tend to stay super straight for very long...

thanks for the input guys... i'll let you know how i progress.

cheers

my car is going in shed soon for a tidy up and a few changes one is removable flares because they dont last one outing its just getting costly im going to be useing press studs under return lip ive seen it done before it works fine, im doing this so when you hit something they just pop off

ok, try as i might i cant think why you would want to remove your flares. What is wrong with just leaving them on all the time?? Where i live it's also illegal to have your tyres protruding from your guards. So what's the reason for wanting to remove your flares???

greg is a rockcrawler
rockcrawlers don't wear flares
dig it?

hahaha - thanks for the compliment NAM, but i'd hardly say that i'm a rockcrawler... there's not really enough rock around here is there?

Tojo - the flares are only on the make the car more legal on the road.

They are also made out of fibreglass and in my opinion would quickly be damaged by passing logs / trees / banks / rocks... so i expect they will last longer if i remove them.

what flares do you have greg? This seems to be a new development from the floppies

Greg,

I have some modified Jeep Wrangler flares on the front of my rig and they are bolted on with the help of nutserts (rivenuts).

The Jeep flares have a sort flange on the inside that runs parallel to the body work so it's quite easy to make them fit. It might be a little bit of a pain in the arse to take them off every time you go wheeling but it wouldnt really take that long.

My recommendation is go the nutserts. (BTW, I paid about $40 for the tool and a box of nutserts (100) is about $30).

grimbo wrote:what flares do you have greg? This seems to be a new development from the floppies

I stole nam's flares when he wasn't looking - they are the ones that were on 'unsafe' at the wandin show...