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Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:36 pm
by da13ro
Haha hey no worries fellas, its fine with me, but cheers Steve for sorting that out!

It looks like ill have some money coming through in a couple of weeks, so im stoked and can get some new wheels and that lift i need + transfer case?

How do i get a transfer case? Just go down to a local reckers and take my own? Can you buy it new? Is it a day job im my garage with a mate?

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:49 pm
by MART
Do you mean transfer gears < Cheers Paul.

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:58 pm
by Gwagensteve
A decent suzuki wrecker should be able to sort you out with your choice of case. Should be around $400 for the case alone.

If you want to start with a late 1.0 case, (called a "shift light case) this will give you the lowest stock, bolt in suzuki gearing. you will gain 25% in low range, (or a whole extra gear off road) and about 12% lower on road, offsetting up to about a 31 on road.

However, these are all pretty old and will have the wrong flange bolt pattern, maning flange swaps or driveshaft issues, a drum handbrake hanging off the back, and, allegedly, there is more work in getting a lower gear set in.

A WT case will be the easiest, have the right bolt pattern, but the tallest "stock" gearing - you will drop about 8% in high and 12ish% off road, but this is the easiest case to put a lower gearset in.

Bear in mind, you will need a leaf front driveshaft - they are shorter because the chain drive coiler case is "shallower" i.e shorter, if that makes sense.

Otherwise, no big problems.

Remember, your coiler has 4.09 diff gears so you are already about 8% shorter than a WT. This is made up for by a taller 5th gear in the coiler and taller transfer ratios through the coil transfer.

Steve.

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:59 pm
by da13ro
One option is to fit a transfer from a leaf spring sierra - this is a bolt in conversion once you have all of the parts and will a) lower your gearing immediately and make 30' tyres pretty usable, and B) allow the fitment of a rockhopper later on.
The transfer...from a leafy. I assume transfer gears are like rockhoppers and is seperate from this?

Not sure what it is, but after looking under the car i assume its after the gearbox, as in just behind it, where the 4L 4H etc stick sits? [/b]

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:03 pm
by Gwagensteve
Yep, that's it.

Gotta go - Chaser's on :D

Steve.

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:28 pm
by da13ro
Haha, that was a great episode, love the bed test....that show is the best for sure!

Anyway, is it a day job to install these? And where do i pick one up?

Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2007 9:40 pm
by Gwagensteve
These- do yoiu mean transfer gears? or a replacement case?

A replacement WT case should be no more that a days work so lang as you have a replacement front shaft.

Changing over the gears in a case- I wouldn't recommend it as a DIY job. nothing super hard about it, but it is fiddly and there is a bit if a sequence to it.

Steve.

Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:19 am
by da13ro
Ok great, I would probably go with the first option then, do you reccomend I go to the wreckers for this? Or can you buy this stuff elsewhere?

Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 9:59 am
by Gwagensteve
There should be a specialist suzuki wrecker in sydney somewhere (?) who can help you with a case and shaft.

Can any sydney people help out with where to get a case?

Steve.

Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 10:45 am
by sanger
Try Suzi and mini auto spares @ seven hills. ph: 1300764176 or 96747000

Posted: Thu Apr 19, 2007 3:49 pm
by MART
Suzi Four , Dunheved , 9833 0216 , Lee , Cheers Paul.

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 10:25 am
by da13ro
Awesome, ill give them a call over the next few days. The Zook is in the shop as we speak just getting its first service.

Does anyone else agree that it is an earthing issue with the parker lights that is causing the drop of fuel on the guage?

Another question for you all aswell, what do people do about protecting the fuel tank when going offroad? Is a bash plate worth it? Or just some bent tubing around it?

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 11:34 am
by rustys
Check out ebay I got a t/case of there for $105 the wreckers wanted about $250-$300

Garth Rustys Fabworx

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 12:17 pm
by =SKB=
I wasn't going to post in this thread...

WTF do you need transfer gearing for at the moment? Go drive the thing. Have fun. You don't need nearly three pages on a forum of what you should do, you need a lot of weekends out in the bush/beach/mud to know what YOUR capable of, nevermind the Zuk. The whole idea of modding your car before you have spent at least six months driving it is, to me anyway, redundant.

Nothing personal but there are threads like this started all the time with 'OMG how do I make Zuk PWN!' and less threads about driving tech or handy tips etc.

Go driving and enjoy it. You will run rings around bigger 'hardcore' rigs with driving experience and near stock Zuk.

:D

Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2007 6:43 pm
by da13ro
Thanks for your input but these guys are giving good advice, im not doing anything drastic too my truck just yet so its all cool.

Its just somthing that will get me going, a body lift and bigger tires isnt a costly thing, and will give me a better chance offroad. Would rather have something under me before hitting dirt.

I also work around a school year timetable, still so its very time permitting, i can do it here, or i can do it in basicly a year.

Im looking forward to getting on the trails, give me 3 weeks and we might have a 4wd experience under my belt!

@ Rustys, thanks for the advice ill try there

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 9:52 am
by Gwagensteve
=SKB= wrote:I wasn't going to post in this thread...

WTF do you need transfer gearing for at the moment? Go drive the thing. Have fun. You don't need nearly three pages on a forum of what you should do, you need a lot of weekends out in the bush/beach/mud to know what YOUR capable of, nevermind the Zuk. The whole idea of modding your car before you have spent at least six months driving it is, to me anyway, redundant.

Nothing personal but there are threads like this started all the time with 'OMG how do I make Zuk PWN!' and less threads about driving tech or handy tips etc.

Go driving and enjoy it. You will run rings around bigger 'hardcore' rigs with driving experience and near stock Zuk.

:D
=SKB= I understand, but A) da13ro asked how to set up with a bit more tyre - there were poeple on this thread telling him to get two airlockers (for a coiler! :D) before he did anything, and B) Have you driven a coiler with 30's on it and stock gearing? They are pretty hard to drive as they are way too tall - normally ends in burnt clutches and trashed fuel tanks.

Sorry for encouraging a newbie to slow his car down before he thinks that having to hit everything at valve bounce in 1st low is the only way to go off road. I reckon that a couple of Vic members would have a)done far less damage and b) liked their coilers more if they the first thing they did was putting a gear case in rather than going for bigger tyres first up.

Steve.

Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 12:13 pm
by =SKB=
Yeah fair enough. My main point was get the thing off road before getting too far ahead of himself. I agree with you: Why buy bigger tyres when you can't appreciate the benefit + you have no gearing etc? Gearing would save flogging the car to death but chances are when your new to off road driving your gonna flog it anyway cos it's fun :D

I've seen people in Zuk's with crappy A/T's have more fun wheeling mild stuff then the 'serious' guys do with $$$ rigs and tractor tyres.

Just my opinion, not having a crack at anyone.

;)

Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:26 pm
by da13ro
Ok so its still down at the mechanics, it seems that the dizzy and fuel pump seals or a bit stuffed, so that gotta get fixed with a new fuel pump 400-500 there...

The other issue is that the trailing arm bushes are aparently dead an need replacing. $400 or so again.

All up $500. Is this something you think I should do? I need to get the oil leak fixed i appreciate that, but the trailing arms effect the performance of the car on the road dramaticly!

The trailing arms aparently are a bugger to get apart so im not sure if i could do this myself, anyway have any of you had these issues? What do you think i should do?

Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 11:28 am
by spamwell
trailing arms are eaaasssy, get superpro bushes from somewhere and all you need is a 17 mm ratchet and spanner possibly a breaker bar, jack stands and a jack, and a vice and a handy bit of metal to press the bushes in and out, did it myself easy as.

the set of bushes should cost you about $80.

all you need to do is jack up the car and have it supported by the chassis, remove the wheels and put something under to support the diff from falling over, then undo the bolt from the chassis mounts, then they will be easy to unbolt from the diff.

press out the bushes (you might need to go get them pressed out or just mangle them so much they fall out) then press the new ones in with your vice and lots of the white grease.(or get them pressed in while your there)

then just stick it together, i found it easy to put the control arms back in at the chassis end first then line up and bolt the diff back up.

yeaaah

Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 9:43 pm
by da13ro
Ok so iv been having a ball around the place in the zook, damn sexy car :P

I will have a crack at the bushes eventually, not sure how important they are. What I need to put in is a roll bar, and a bash plate around the fuel tank.

Just wondering what people bolt the roll bar to, and where abouts they recommend. With the bash guard for the tank, not sure what people have done in the past but i was just thinking of some bent tubeing around it, nothing fancy, mounted on and inbetween where the tank itself mounts to the chassis.

Would love any input with all that, and one more thing (And i did have a try at the search but it shows up far too many irrelivent results) my entire dash sorta wiggles a fair bit, just wondering what i tighten to fix that, where are the damn bolts :P

After removing each globe one by one, im still having that earthing issue with the fuel guage dropping but im getting used to it so its not too much of an issue!

Cheers fellas!

Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 8:04 am
by lay80n
da13ro wrote:Ok so iv been having a ball around the place in the zook, damn sexy car :P

I will have a crack at the bushes eventually, not sure how important they are. What I need to put in is a roll bar, and a bash plate around the fuel tank.

Just wondering what people bolt the roll bar to, and where abouts they recommend. With the bash guard for the tank, not sure what people have done in the past but i was just thinking of some bent tubeing around it, nothing fancy, mounted on and inbetween where the tank itself mounts to the chassis.

Would love any input with all that, and one more thing (And i did have a try at the search but it shows up far too many irrelivent results) my entire dash sorta wiggles a fair bit, just wondering what i tighten to fix that, where are the damn bolts :P

After removing each globe one by one, im still having that earthing issue with the fuel guage dropping but im getting used to it so its not too much of an issue!

Cheers fellas!

For your earths, check the earths, not the globes. :roll: As for the roll bar, if you are still struggling to find the dash bolts, maybe look at getting one built for you. Not to sound condesending, but its your or someone elses life here, not an areat o play round with if you are not sure. Also you will need engineering approval for the roll bar. For teh tank, just build a bash/slide guard out of steel plate around it, or live with it. For your dash, try looking up under it whilst moving it and see where the movement is coming from.

Layto....