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Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:31 pm
by CairnsZook
I couldn't find a relay above 40A anywhere so I got a small solenoid instead, and a circut breaker as well. Will wire it up tomorrow and report back.
I did consider turning the AC into an OBA setup, but I'd die without AC if I went back up north.

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 12:55 pm
by smileysmoke
so noone has pics or an idea where a tank will fit and what size..?
ideally 9L would be great..
maybe on end inside behind the wheel arch and compressor mounted on top of wheel arch to limit loss of cargo area? (no rear seat)
i was thinking even putting compressor on one wheel arch and tank on the other??

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 2:27 pm
by nicbeer
hey,

Just an update.

I have tested my OBA with no tank and works ok. has a turbo lag winding up to boost pressure but works good after that.

With the vertical tank, as long as the drain is at the bottom, not sure on fittings thou. be good in that spot

Nic

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 4:54 pm
by CairnsZook
I picked up a small tank from the truck wreckers today for $20. Looks like it is about 7 or 8 litres. It should tuck in nicely in front of the fuel tank. Now I just need some fittings, it has four plugs all 1/2in sized thread.

Nicbeer, where will you mount your vertical tank?

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 5:46 pm
by nicbeer
Was looking at putting it in the corner in the back opposite side to the fuel filler neck panel.

i have a cargo barrier in my zook also so protection should be ok.

Got pics of the tank, only ones i saw at the wreckers were as big as the fuel tank.

Nic

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:12 pm
by CairnsZook
Hmmm... there's less room under there than I thought.
I first tried it up in front of the fuel tank. I thought it might fit mounted across the car, but the exhaust gets in the way. If I put it in lengthways, it is right up against the right rear shocky and only clears the top of the diff by about 60mm. It also obstructs access to the fuel filter, but that can be moved quite easily.
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The next option is to mount it against the chassis rail, further forward, under the driver's or passenger side. The tank in this position hangs down the same distance as the rail, so is quite exposed. I would mount it so the drain is not the lowest point, and just loosen the straps or whatever holding it in place and rotate it to drain it.
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Or inside on the wheel arch. My rear seats do go in occasionally though, so I would like to avoid this option if possible.
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There was another tank on the same truck. It had the same diameter and about 3/4 the length of this one.

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:45 pm
by NIK
I got the same tank only cost $5 :finger:
but it didnt come with fittings and do you think I can find them. Ive tried hardware, plumbing, repco etc, truck spare parts even they couldnt help!
Its an odd thread apparently :roll: so I gave up.
Nik

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:10 pm
by smileysmoke
i like the one under the pass seat on chassis rail. a bash guard would be a good idea also.. but would make the idea of loosening brackets to drain a bit fiddly.
ill probably go the wheel arch option.. i cart crap around for work and dont like giving people lifts so the back seat doesnt go in..

Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:42 pm
by sanger
IMO i would not mount the tank so low its just asking to be mashed up. Personally i'll be mounting mine on the wheel arch inside but if u cant come to grips with doing this moaybe you should chase a smaller tank.

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:52 pm
by CairnsZook
OK, I've finally found a tank of suitable size for the Zook.
It's an old cylinder from an ELSA, like a mini scuba cylinder. 3L and rated to 207 bar - should just about do I reckon. ;)


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Now I just have to find a fitting for the neck, and drill and tap some more holes for fittings. Might need three or four for lockers, tires and drain etc.

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:56 pm
by dank
what about mounting in the engine bay? would it get too hot under there? get rid of the factory jack mount and mount it on the passenger wheel arch. The idea of mounting on the chassis rail is not great in my opinion. I mean if you don't REALLY drive your zook on hard stuff then it might be ok but it you wheel rocky rutted stuff then its just going to act as a slider....not what it was designed for... :D bloody zooks...not enough space!

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:23 pm
by Gwagensteve
The heat will have no effect - there's not really a problem with mounting underbonnet, although cairnszooks idea of lengthways between the chassis rail and tailshaft strikes me as the best idea.

Steve.

Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:45 pm
by brendan_h
ive also got one of them ebay compressors. 100bucks im not complaining. same as your. im planing on bolting my compressor in side the car behind the drivers seat. ive made up a tank out of 4inch copper pipe. go the whole length of the car on top of the fuel tank. work out it holds 6- 7L and i pumped it up to 140psi the other day. now just waiting on my pressure switch and ill bolt it all up

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:52 pm
by smileysmoke
old thread i know. but i am currently installing a 9l tank to my zook with a pressure switch and incab switch using air con compressor as pump.. just seeing if anyone has a wiring diagram that i could refer to? relay sounds like it may need to be incorporated.
will take lots of pics for you guys.

just did more searching and found the following..
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anything i have to change when wiring it up in the zook?

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:47 pm
by CairnsZook
Yeah post em up Smileysmoke.

I'll be finishing mine off soon, now that I have more time on my hands.

And when it's done I'll have an excuse to put in an air locker!


Here is a couple of diagrams I found on the net somewhere -

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Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:50 pm
by smileysmoke
yeah mate no excuse for an airlocker than.. just dont tell the missus :|
nice more wiring diagrams are good.. just need to sort out my relay pins etc... then into it.

found another post of a wiring diagram
i like this one.. may go with that and see how i go..
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pics soon to follow (tomorrow)

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 6:51 pm
by germo
smileysmoke

go with your second diagram, it has the ignition switch in the switching circuit and the pressure switch is drawn in the correct position, ie before the item it is switching. (the realay)
in the first diagram the pressure switch is switching what is effectively the negative as it is after the device and that can make fault finding difficult,

enjoy ashley

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 6:57 pm
by smileysmoke
cheers ashley thanks for the input mate. ill wire it up and hopefully have it all sorted tomorrow.
cheers
sam