OH F@$K yeah its worth it.....hehehePatrolden wrote:a bit of friggin around, but will be worth it in the end
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Holden 5.0 L EFI into a GQ
i brought a entire kit from marks adapters and was far from inpressed with there knowlage of the kit when trying to figure out problems and the price. the price seamed good for what they told you over the phone but when the kit got here nothing was as explained
400 dollads for surge tank kit. was told it was aprox 2-3 litres and very good quality with all brackets. its galvanised steel would be luck to hold a litre and a half and had a hole in it. when i rang up i was told they all get checked and it cant have to which i replied ill send you photos and you can send me a new one with postage paid on the return for the old one. they said they couldnt do that. i ended up fixing it.
fuel pump and line kit. was told a was getting a hi flow hi pressure pump and a good lift pump along with all lines. i got one of those cheap crap facet lift pumps and a vl hi pressure pump along with aprox 50cm of hi pressure line and 50cm of low pressure line.
i told the guys i was running a td42 and they told me i would need the petrol tacho
i then was told i needed a power steering conversion kit which i brough for nearly $500. and surprise my pump didnt fit. the instructions said i needed a petrol pump and when i rand marks to send the kit back( i wasnt gunna pay another 400 for a pump as well) i was told the pumps are the same and it should bolt up, i repeatedly told them it didnt and eventully got a petrol pump which does fit( thank you micheal) the kit also moves the altanator............ to about 3mm abouve the chassis rail....... and guess what it hits under deceleration. rang marks again and told them they said it must have been my car... i have since found 3 other cars with the same problem..
if i did it again i wouldnt go near marks with a 40ft pole
400 dollads for surge tank kit. was told it was aprox 2-3 litres and very good quality with all brackets. its galvanised steel would be luck to hold a litre and a half and had a hole in it. when i rang up i was told they all get checked and it cant have to which i replied ill send you photos and you can send me a new one with postage paid on the return for the old one. they said they couldnt do that. i ended up fixing it.
fuel pump and line kit. was told a was getting a hi flow hi pressure pump and a good lift pump along with all lines. i got one of those cheap crap facet lift pumps and a vl hi pressure pump along with aprox 50cm of hi pressure line and 50cm of low pressure line.
i told the guys i was running a td42 and they told me i would need the petrol tacho
i then was told i needed a power steering conversion kit which i brough for nearly $500. and surprise my pump didnt fit. the instructions said i needed a petrol pump and when i rand marks to send the kit back( i wasnt gunna pay another 400 for a pump as well) i was told the pumps are the same and it should bolt up, i repeatedly told them it didnt and eventully got a petrol pump which does fit( thank you micheal) the kit also moves the altanator............ to about 3mm abouve the chassis rail....... and guess what it hits under deceleration. rang marks again and told them they said it must have been my car... i have since found 3 other cars with the same problem..
if i did it again i wouldnt go near marks with a 40ft pole
Make sure that you check that the adapter faces are parallel, i know of 4 that have come over to NZ (1 being mine) that were not.
My dads truck had all sorts of clutch issues due to it being out.
When going back to marks we got the same answer as tufenuf, send it back and we will check it. Not so easy when you are over the ditch, easier to just get it machined.
My dads truck had all sorts of clutch issues due to it being out.
When going back to marks we got the same answer as tufenuf, send it back and we will check it. Not so easy when you are over the ditch, easier to just get it machined.
send mark the bill for the machineddoddzee wrote:Make sure that you check that the adapter faces are parallel, i know of 4 that have come over to NZ (1 being mine) that were not.
My dads truck had all sorts of clutch issues due to it being out.
When going back to marks we got the same answer as tufenuf, send it back and we will check it. Not so easy when you are over the ditch, easier to just get it machined.
work
Sadly, many businesses these days are very helpful pre-sale, and just to busy to even talk to you post-sale.cun7s wrote:send mark the bill for the machineddoddzee wrote:Make sure that you check that the adapter faces are parallel, i know of 4 that have come over to NZ (1 being mine) that were not.
My dads truck had all sorts of clutch issues due to it being out.
When going back to marks we got the same answer as tufenuf, send it back and we will check it. Not so easy when you are over the ditch, easier to just get it machined.
work
I haven't dealt with Marks at all, I've bought stuff from Dellows and I've tried to buy from Castlemaine Rod Shop, and of those two I found that the guy I spoke to at CRS was completely, utterly useless and didn't seem to know a farking thing about cars, much less about 4WDs specifically. Dellows however knew their shiat in detail. Having said that I have heard of occasional quality issues from all of these guys, so it's always a bit of a pig in a poke buying engine conversion stuff.
This is not legal advice.
Well sounds like you guys have had a bad run of luck, i bought all my conversion stuff from marks and it all fitted as it should have i got the addaptor, wiring, p/s pump kit, speed sensor kit, engine mount kit, all fitted sweet no problems, the only thing i had troubble with was the clutch set up, it took a couple of phone calls (and talking to the right guy at marks) and the engine in and out 4 times 
to sort it out..
apart from its all sweet.
if u use a H/D clutch, it has to be the same a dimensions as a standard one( Flat fingers and throw etc etc) but just a heaver diaphram sping, then u have to use a clutch maste out of a GU patrol, it has a 11/16 piston in it rather then a GQ which is a 5/8, it allows the slave to be pushed out a little further...
to sort it out..apart from its all sweet.
if u use a H/D clutch, it has to be the same a dimensions as a standard one( Flat fingers and throw etc etc) but just a heaver diaphram sping, then u have to use a clutch maste out of a GU patrol, it has a 11/16 piston in it rather then a GQ which is a 5/8, it allows the slave to be pushed out a little further...
88 GQ SWB 5''SUS LIFT 60MM BODY LIFT, FRONT LOKKA, NOW WITH 304, ...... :D
www.roverpark.com
www.roverpark.com
I was at Marks today and went through all the clutch setup. They said any GM or aftermarket clutch will work, provided it is all for GM and not mixed and matched stuff, ie one full boxed kit. No mention about the GU master though. Care to fill us in a little more? I am thinking that my master is suss at the moment, should I future proof it and get the GU one now? A little more throw cant hurt, can it? I did ask about the poor machining "rumours" and the response was, "we have only had one guy complain about his and he didn't return it for us to check and rectify, choosing to have it machined himself". Apparently no one has taken one back! I'd throw it.
What other items did you guys bootyfab? Stuff like throttle cable, ac and ps plumbing and anything else before I start mine. Would hate to get half way and realise I needed part "C" to go into part "I don't have".
What other items did you guys bootyfab? Stuff like throttle cable, ac and ps plumbing and anything else before I start mine. Would hate to get half way and realise I needed part "C" to go into part "I don't have".
[quote="bazooked"]can i use a mate to position while i screw? :twisted:[/quote]
You will need to fab up brackets to run AC as it will hit the steering box..
Im not running AC so not an issue for me.
I have the same alternator issue as well, but its not as close as 3mm.. But it is close...thinking of taking to the part that comes close tot he chassis with a grinder.
If you run the power steering adapter kit from marks the pump will sit right in the way of the air intake, so some type of 90deg bend will be needed or some shit like that..
Im not running AC so not an issue for me.
I have the same alternator issue as well, but its not as close as 3mm.. But it is close...thinking of taking to the part that comes close tot he chassis with a grinder.
If you run the power steering adapter kit from marks the pump will sit right in the way of the air intake, so some type of 90deg bend will be needed or some shit like that..
Skippy I have not heard of this issue either, care to go into some more information?skippy's GQ wrote:
if u use a H/D clutch, it has to be the same a dimensions as a standard one( Flat fingers and throw etc etc) but just a heaver diaphram sping, then u have to use a clutch master out of a GU patrol, it has a 11/16 piston in it rather then a GQ which is a 5/8, it allows the slave to be pushed out a little further...
its not information there just going to give out , like i said it took 3 phone calls till i got the information, and dont talk to the office biach who answers the phone, get one of there techs,....
SO... after fitting it all in (clutch , engine and stuff likt that....) i started it up and tested the clutch operatin, i found that it would drag and not disengage properly, so i tried a few other things like extend the push rod length, i pulled the engine back out and put the spacer in behind the throw out bearing (just incase i measured it wrong ) it made no differance to the throw, so out come the enging for the 4th time and another phone call to marks was made, this time i got one of the higher ups in the company. i told him all the information about what i have done and the cluth which i used (Excedy sports clutch) its the same dimentions as a standard one just a heaver diaphram and different friction plate, he went through his computer( and i figure thay have a trouble shooting section about there products on it) and the end result was i need to put on a master cylinder from the gu on it, he gave me the part number for the genuine nissan one, i bought one , i fitterd it, I HAPPY
with the power steering if its a TB42 you use your factory lines as the p/s kit from marks allows them to bolt back up, my ac compressor sits beside the chassie rail, but if you have the stronger panhard rod bracket on the chassie u will have to cut a little of it away so it will fit in properly,
had no other dramers with it so far every thing else fitted like it should have, had no troubbles since
Does that help u guys out any more???????????????????????????????
Skippy
SO... after fitting it all in (clutch , engine and stuff likt that....) i started it up and tested the clutch operatin, i found that it would drag and not disengage properly, so i tried a few other things like extend the push rod length, i pulled the engine back out and put the spacer in behind the throw out bearing (just incase i measured it wrong ) it made no differance to the throw, so out come the enging for the 4th time and another phone call to marks was made, this time i got one of the higher ups in the company. i told him all the information about what i have done and the cluth which i used (Excedy sports clutch) its the same dimentions as a standard one just a heaver diaphram and different friction plate, he went through his computer( and i figure thay have a trouble shooting section about there products on it) and the end result was i need to put on a master cylinder from the gu on it, he gave me the part number for the genuine nissan one, i bought one , i fitterd it, I HAPPY
with the power steering if its a TB42 you use your factory lines as the p/s kit from marks allows them to bolt back up, my ac compressor sits beside the chassie rail, but if you have the stronger panhard rod bracket on the chassie u will have to cut a little of it away so it will fit in properly,
had no other dramers with it so far every thing else fitted like it should have, had no troubbles since
Does that help u guys out any more???????????????????????????????
Skippy
88 GQ SWB 5''SUS LIFT 60MM BODY LIFT, FRONT LOKKA, NOW WITH 304, ...... :D
www.roverpark.com
www.roverpark.com
Wouldn't use a marks kit if they gave it to me. I said it before, for what you get $3500 is a rip. The slight chance that things may not fit, its not worth the farking around to get it to fit. beter off making all the parts yourself (apart from bellhousing)so its up the your standards and the alt and others things don"t nearly hit or do hit chasses on acceleration. might take longer than a week end but the end result is well worth in IMO
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... c&start=60
Good for a read
Spend the money and stick a GEN 3 in it, much better than a stinking 5l, even better than a 355
Good for a read
Spend the money and stick a GEN 3 in it, much better than a stinking 5l, even better than a 355
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Guys, I should now maybe state that I'm not doing a 5.0ltr but a SBC. Dual fuel and not Gen 3 as it is far cheaper to do. No argument against the Gen 3, but I will always run LPG, so what's the point of EFI? But I feel that's irrevelent. I'm looking for common issues, such as the clutch, engine lounts etc.
Just an update on Mark's stuff. I literaly just got off the phone to the old boy who has just done a V6 into Hilux for my brother, and the amount of shite that Mark's have stuffed up is shocking. They only got the Hilux going recently after getting it back at Easter from CRS fixing there fookups. Why the hell can't someone make make stuff that actualy works?! Brother has spoken to Mark's, as well as the auto elec playing with it, and Mark's has washed their hands of it. One last chance for them to make it all right or it goes heaps further. Sorry for the hijack, but I'm assuming lots of guys read these sort of threads looking for answers, only to find more problems. Keep any and all info coming for the sake of future transplants, including mine, as I'm going to speak to Mark himself and get some answers soon. I already have proof from a guy who has done reprogramming work for Mark's PCM's, and what Mark himself told me, can't work. Think I'm sooking? Maybe, but I too myself will start with Mark's stuff, then fix it.
Just an update on Mark's stuff. I literaly just got off the phone to the old boy who has just done a V6 into Hilux for my brother, and the amount of shite that Mark's have stuffed up is shocking. They only got the Hilux going recently after getting it back at Easter from CRS fixing there fookups. Why the hell can't someone make make stuff that actualy works?! Brother has spoken to Mark's, as well as the auto elec playing with it, and Mark's has washed their hands of it. One last chance for them to make it all right or it goes heaps further. Sorry for the hijack, but I'm assuming lots of guys read these sort of threads looking for answers, only to find more problems. Keep any and all info coming for the sake of future transplants, including mine, as I'm going to speak to Mark himself and get some answers soon. I already have proof from a guy who has done reprogramming work for Mark's PCM's, and what Mark himself told me, can't work. Think I'm sooking? Maybe, but I too myself will start with Mark's stuff, then fix it.
[quote="bazooked"]can i use a mate to position while i screw? :twisted:[/quote]
I dont know if it would suit your application, i just know that it was the fix for mineBowTieGQ wrote:Skippy, so should the GU master be what is used for all V8 conversions or was it only luck it suited your setup and th GQ is fine? Prefer to know now before starting.
88 GQ SWB 5''SUS LIFT 60MM BODY LIFT, FRONT LOKKA, NOW WITH 304, ...... :D
www.roverpark.com
www.roverpark.com
Hey Guys , Just about to buy all the stuff to do Mine 5Lt Injected and witha Marks Adaptor kit......... Just a few Questions that I hope someone can help with.
Will the Second battery tray on the passenger side still fit or will it foul on the pump?
Do you Have to go the HQ Sump ? I know it makes sense as the Commodore one is at the front..But can you use the Com one?
I see a image with 2 Fly wheels on it , Do you have to keep the Nissan one , I am going to run the 5 speed? I think?
Has any anyone done this on a diesel ? as the Conversion on the wireing side may vary?????
Can you run the Factory Holden exhaust manifold ??
I have the Diesel radiator , I guess Ill just need some Thermo fans.... Every Bit of advise helps ...
Will the Second battery tray on the passenger side still fit or will it foul on the pump?
Do you Have to go the HQ Sump ? I know it makes sense as the Commodore one is at the front..But can you use the Com one?
I see a image with 2 Fly wheels on it , Do you have to keep the Nissan one , I am going to run the 5 speed? I think?
Has any anyone done this on a diesel ? as the Conversion on the wireing side may vary?????
Can you run the Factory Holden exhaust manifold ??
I have the Diesel radiator , I guess Ill just need some Thermo fans.... Every Bit of advise helps ...
Temporary Australian
i used the Commodore power steering pump, i'm guessing that's what you are referring to. Saves another adaptor, but you will have to slightly modify the pump mount to lift it up an inch. I think i took pics when i did mine.The Big Green Meany wrote:
Will the Second battery tray on the passenger side still fit or will it foul on the pump?
yes you will need a HQ sump, or one out of an early Commodore i think is at the back?? not sure of that one. Mine is off an old 253 that a friend had laying around.Do you Have to go the HQ Sump ? I know it makes sense as the Commodore one is at the front..But can you use the Com one?
i have two on mine, but i have an auto. The starter runs off the Holden flywheel, and the nissan flex plate drives the torque converter.I see a image with 2 Fly wheels on it , Do you have to keep the Nissan one , I am going to run the 5 speed? I think?
Can't help you there sorry.....Has any anyone done this on a diesel ? as the Conversion on the wireing side may vary?????
I have factory headers on mine and they fit, but you will need to lengthen the passenger side pipe for the exhaust flange, it hits on the chassis. I got mine lengthened by 4" and it works fine. Not sure about cast iron ones thoughCan you run the Factory Holden exhaust manifold ??
You have the right radiatorI have the Diesel radiator , I guess Ill just need some Thermo fans.... Every Bit of advise helps ...
i had to buy a diesel radiator for mine because the petrol one has the outlets on the wrong side. You will either have to get the lower radiator pipe rotated, or do what i did and make a hybrid hose out of the commodore one and an EA falcon one and joined them with a bit if pipe and a couple of clamps.Hope this helps
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
Hey mate a bit more info for you.The Big Green Meany wrote:Hey Guys , Just about to buy all the stuff to do Mine 5Lt Injected and witha Marks Adaptor kit......... Just a few Questions that I hope someone can help with.
Will the Second battery tray on the passenger side still fit or will it foul on the pump?
Do you Have to go the HQ Sump ? I know it makes sense as the Commodore one is at the front..But can you use the Com one?
I see a image with 2 Fly wheels on it , Do you have to keep the Nissan one , I am going to run the 5 speed? I think?
Has any anyone done this on a diesel ? as the Conversion on the wireing side may vary?????
Can you run the Factory Holden exhaust manifold ??
I have the Diesel radiator , I guess Ill just need some Thermo fans.... Every Bit of advise helps ...
I ran the marks conversion kit for the power steering. Its just clears the body with my body lift even though they say it will hit. might still hit the motor torques up but.. I am running a 120amp alternator which comes really close to the chassis as well had to grind it down.
I am about to get a HQ sump and pick up to bolt up.
I cant run my battery in the spot I had it originally as it hits the pump.
For radiator hoses I made a holden vl v8 hose and a eb falcon 6 hoses work. for the top hose its just one f those flexy hoses with the temp sender fitting in it.
Pics of hoses up in a min.
Bottom Hose VL 5.0 V8 is the one that comes off the motor & the EB falcon 6 hose is the one that comes of the rad, I had a bit of steel laying around that reduced to bolt these together as the falcon hose is a larger diameter then the holden hose. Also had to cut certain amounts of the ends of each hose till I got it right.
Top hose is that flexy type hose with the adapter for the temp sender.
Top hose is that flexy type hose with the adapter for the temp sender.
Steer
Ok Guys half way through my conversion and run into a problem, Power steer Pump. I was going to run the Factory Holden one, however that hits on the Steer Box..... Is there another pump I should use and where abouts should I mount it????
Just another tip.
I just got VT 5.0L throttle cable and it goes right in. No mods to the throttle pedal.
Just had to get creative with the cable on the throttle body to take up a bit of slack. Looped it outside the TB instead of inside the groovy bit to take up some slack. Not a ideal fix but I need the car drivable on Sunday arvo.
And also I have full open and closed throttle.
I just got VT 5.0L throttle cable and it goes right in. No mods to the throttle pedal.
Just had to get creative with the cable on the throttle body to take up a bit of slack. Looped it outside the TB instead of inside the groovy bit to take up some slack. Not a ideal fix but I need the car drivable on Sunday arvo.
And also I have full open and closed throttle.
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