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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:41 pm
by RMP&O
Oh ya what is up with the rope/wire going from top of diff to chassis? Limiting strap?
Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:53 pm
by WICKED
RMP&O wrote:That is a damn nice Patrol you have Wicked.
Any probs with the high steer arm loosening up on you? I like you front diff guard except you have no guard covering the lower part of the pumpkin. I always seem to hit the lower part of the pumpkin.
How does the shackle reversal work? Keep bump steer down?
Your tie rod looks buff!
That a stock MQ/MK steering box?
Thanks mate.
nope.
LOL there is a piece of flat bar from the bar to the bottom 2 bolt holes, so yer it does well!
S/r great! Bump steer?
Yer its chromoly
Stock box but its been work/bored for bigger pressure.
and the cable is to a 9000 warn winch so i can pull the nose down on hill climbs and try and level out on side slops
Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:16 pm
by RMP&O
nice man nice...always loved your P-troll...it rocks!
Now that I can picture the bar for the diff skid I am more keen on it. Been trying to decide the best way to do a front diff skid and this sounds sweet. Hope you don't mind if I copy it!
how the warn line work for hills and side slopes? Keep it more stable in these situations? I know buggies using them but yours is the first I seen on a regular truck.
Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 3:25 pm
by WICKED
RMP&O wrote:nice man nice...always loved your P-troll...it rocks!
Now that I can picture the bar for the diff skid I am more keen on it. Been trying to decide the best way to do a front diff skid and this sounds sweet. Hope you don't mind if I copy it!
how the warn line work for hills and side slopes? Keep it more stable in these situations? I know buggies using them but yours is the first I seen on a regular truck.
If you want more in depth pics let me know of what and i'll e-mail them to ya dude (will need ya email)
as for the winch well if i'm doin a hill climb and the winch is in the front could bounce around to much and put me of line or lift to much in an effort to prevent endo's. Side slops it's connected to the passanger side of the chassis so if thats the high side i just winch in and it will level the car out a little. Rear 4 link has the same but mounted in the centre.
Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 10:48 pm
by dattopimp
I just got a front air locker for the diff so I really don't wanna change my front diff anymore lol.
That winch cable for pulling the front down is ingenious!
Ah, so many mods, so little money, or time...Ah day i might get there.
Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:12 pm
by Hoppy11
I just put a $25 bush kit in the Relay arm and what a huge difference it makes, the whole front end feels heaps more solid, the bump steer has gone and when I hit a pot hole the front end no longer feels like something is loose and going to fall off.
Hoppy
Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:24 pm
by WICKED
Best pics i have dudes
Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:10 pm
by RMP&O
interesting steering set up and diff guard.
Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 4:21 pm
by WICKED
look throught to the front and you can see how high the arms are
Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:44 pm
by dattopimp
Ok, so say If i still have my C200 Diff in the front of my MK and wanna convert to a single drag link from the box to the knuckle and piss off the idler arm and relay and crap, all I need is a drag link with the same length and with ends that'll suit the tapers on the knuckle and steering arm?
How does this go down engineering wise? Need a blue plate or does superior engineering or similar do up an arm that'll go in? Just wanna get pointed in the right direction quickly...Gotta make room asap!
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:14 pm
by dattopimp
Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 8:15 pm
by Patchy
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:24 pm
by Hoppy11
Is the MQ/MK pitman arm the same taper as MQ/MK tie rods?? if so could an MQ/MK steering rod with tierods be used as the draglink from the pitman arm to the original steering rod??
Hoppy
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:31 pm
by Hoppy11
It looks like it has been done in this pic
Hoppy
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:33 pm
by Hoppy11
I did read somewhere that Screwy used a 75 criuser tie rod for the pitman arm cause it was the same taper??
Hoppy
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:38 pm
by pongo
dattopimp wrote:Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
i think a reverse taper using cruiser taper can be done. mob on yak ebay sells the reamer cheap
cheers
Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:35 pm
by dattopimp
Yep the tierod and pitman have the same taper. That was my plan to use the tierod as my new drag link, just cut the RH thread size down and retap it. However it looks as though the Pitman balljoint will bind on full flex, and seeing i want more flex, this isn't gonna work. Was advised to go a GU adjustable drag link and just the the pitman sleeved and re tapered to be on the underside. BUT THEN, I duno, lookin at the pics hoppy put up it looks as though the tierod and draglink will hit.
Will look into it more after tube bar i think.
Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:49 pm
by Hoppy11
Well this thread has a few different idea's going on here, firstly everyone agrees that the MQ pitman arm is a different taper than a GQ
dattopimp wrote:Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
I then read that MQ knuckles fit GQ, same tierod taper.
WICKED wrote:MQ knuckles bolt straight on to GQ housing, same tapper and thread on the tierod ends so they'll fit fine.
I then read that MQ tie rods are the same taper as the MQ piman arm
dattopimp wrote:Yep the tierod and pitman have the same taper.
So if the MQ tierods are the same taper as the MQ pitman arm and the MQ tierods are the same taper as the GQ tierods (cause the 2nd quote says so) then why is it so hard to get a tierod to fit the MQ pitman arm ??.
Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:51 pm
by Hoppy11
Or am I just thinking too hard??
ha ha ha
Hoppy
Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 3:46 pm
by Hoppy11
Ok then, I pulled all the steering of the spare MQ and bought a new Tie rodend to check the taper against the pitman arm and where the drag link fits the tie rod, and they match.
So my plan is to put new tie rods ends on the original tie rod, then use the 2nd tie rod off the spare MQ and put a new right hand tierod end on one end, then get the rod cut to down, threaded and put another right hand tierod on that end too and use it as the draglink and run it from the pitman arm to the tierod. then stick a steering dampner on and all should be sweet
I will post pics when it's done
Hoppy
Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 5:54 pm
by BENNNO
hey mate, ive done this steering conversion on my truck, very very easy!! just wipp all the old steering arms out, get a straight arm made up to suit and fit straight in!! very easy. ill post some pics.
Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 7:36 pm
by Hoppy11
BENNNO wrote:hey mate, ive done this steering conversion on my truck, very very easy!! just wipp all the old steering arms out, get a straight arm made up to suit and fit straight in!! very easy. ill post some pics.
Awesome, post em up
Hoppy
Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:16 pm
by dattopimp
Well this thread has a few different idea's going on here, firstly everyone agrees that the MQ pitman arm is a different taper than a GQ
dattopimp wrote:
Rang up superior engineering today about the draglink and they don't have anything :( Apparently about 2 years ago they did this conversion to a comp truck and ended up using a GQ/GU steering box so the pitman arm had a taper which they could match. Seems the MQ taper on the pitman is a barstard of a size. Can't just swap pitmans either as apparently the spline is different :(
Looks like this could be a small mission.
I then read that MQ knuckles fit GQ, same tierod taper.
WICKED wrote:
MQ knuckles bolt straight on to GQ housing, same tapper and thread on the tierod ends so they'll fit fine.
I then read that MQ tie rods are the same taper as the MQ piman arm
dattopimp wrote:
Yep the tierod and pitman have the same taper.
So if the MQ tierods are the same taper as the MQ pitman arm and the MQ tierods are the same taper as the GQ tierods (cause the 2nd quote says so) then why is it so hard to get a tierod to fit the MQ pitman arm ??.
Apparently the GQ's run 2 diff tapers. The earlier leaf spring still have a relay arm. Which is poo. The later ones with a single piece drag link use the different taper. Thats according to Peddars and i'm pretty sure i heard it else where. Thinking i should just cut the RH thread side off my spare tierod, cut a new thread and be done with it. I still think the tierod will bind up abit though, unless it goes underneath the pitman, and then, if i do that, i'm thinking the tierod will hit the draglink on rh upward flex. Oh and you need to find someone who has the taper cuter to do it properly.
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:27 pm
by Hoppy11
dattopimp wrote: lookin at the pics hoppy put up it looks as though the tierod and draglink will hit.
Remember though that the draglink originally goes in the top of the pitman arm (like a GU) and the tierod ends go in from underneath, the opposite to the pic that I posted, so they should clear each other.
I have 4 new tierod ends, the engineering guy's are shortening down my spare MQ tierod and rethreading the righthand thread to be my new draglink and the new steering dampner bracket is waiting, so as soon as the draglink is done i will be ditching the MQ/MK steering junk for a single draglink, pics when i'm done
Hoppy
Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 6:33 pm
by dattopimp
how much lift/what sus setup are you runnin hoppy? Cause i was thinking of the underslung setup, but then isn't it too close the the tie rod? and on rh upward flex it'd hit
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 3:32 pm
by Hoppy11
dattopimp wrote:how much lift/what sus setup are you runnin hoppy? Cause i was thinking of the underslung setup, but then isn't it too close the the tie rod? and on rh upward flex it'd hit
I have a 3 inch spring and 2 inch body.
I got the shortened MQ tie rod back today, I put the steering dampner bracket on, so it's all ready to go, I will let you know how it goes when it's all in.
Hoppy
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 3:41 pm
by dattopimp
God that looks sexy. I think I'll end up going this way, just wanna make sure the draglink won't hit the tie rod on flex
Thinkin of chuckin longer shackles in too so that may help abit. See how we go. How much did the shorten and re thread cost you? couldn't imagine it'd be much?
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 4:17 pm
by Hoppy11
Not sure how much it was, I have an account with them, so they will send me a bill, I will let you know
Hoppy
Posted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 8:56 pm
by Hoppy11
dattopimp wrote:God that looks sexy.
I told my wife it looked hot, but she thought I was an Idiot, my kids thought it was a gun from Lego Exoforce, idiots!.
Hoppy
Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:36 pm
by Hoppy11
Fitted the new draglink today, couldn't fit the new tie rods, cause i'm still waiting on a tierod to arrive, it feels much better, with the old relay arm setup it was possible to grab the tie rod and give it a twist, cause of the nature of the setup with the 2 draglinks and relay arm, with this set up it is all alot stiffer, now the slight steering wobble i would get with the 35's has gone all together, result!!! and nothing hits
Hoppy
