Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i wouldnt cut the shaft.... id cut the outer cylender shorter and re weld...

ive decided against it now...

so am i correct in saying that if i put one 30mm spacer down the end of the cylender with the piston and shaft out, then put it all back together, that will limit my stroke both in and out?

or do i need to put a spacer on eitherside of the piston?

screwy

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:
or do i need to put a spacer on eitherside of the piston?

screwy

Yes, one spacer on each side.
Spacers under the piston will reduce the retracted stroke, spacers around the piston rod will reduce the extended stroke.

KiwiBacon wrote:

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:
or do i need to put a spacer on eitherside of the piston?

screwy

Yes, one spacer on each side.
Spacers under the piston will reduce the retracted stroke, spacers around the piston rod will reduce the extended stroke.

wont one spacer just reduce the stroke altogether :S

Its unlikely hes going to mount the two ends of the ram(if there is two ends?) directly to the steering arms, so he can make up the difference in his custom linkages between the ram and the steering arms.

1 spacer would have to be a little more convenient, and smrts.

well i figure if i put one spacer behind the piston and centre the ram correctly, the entire stroke would be reduced???

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:well i figure if i put one spacer behind the piston and centre the ram correctly, the entire stroke would be reduced???

thats what im thinking, but im no hydrologist :(

Yarno wrote:

jav wrote:

Yarno wrote:

jav wrote:I still think it will be fine just as it is. the one's on the mog have more travel them what the steering has,

No you definitely need the stroke limiter inside the barrel, this is usually just a tube that fits over the rod and inside the bore with enough clearance for the oil to go around.

At full lock your steer valve will still be putting out full pressure to your assist cylinder, and will be strong enough (if not limited) to break something.

Don't think he's going to break mog diffs with it.

You obviously don't work with hydraulics then!!!

If i've read everything right scewy's going to run hydro assist, not full hydro.
how much pressure are you going to get with a standard power steer pump? about 800psi standard i think and 1500psi with a tickle up. How hard is it to get to full lock and back of the steering wheel slightly, no more pressure. By the way, i've had a little bit of a play with hydraulics over the years. What happens if the tube is 1mm to long that he use's for the spacer and gets punched into the cylinder cap

I do belive he has a problem still, Screwy stated he has only a single acting ram ........ that mean he will only have a one inlet at the bottom of the ram so therefore only hydrualic power to extend the ram



Don't you need a double acting ram so you will have a pressure in both direction

GUpatrol wrote:I do belive he has a problem still, Screwy stated he has only a single acting ram ........ that mean he will only have a one inlet at the bottom of the ram so therefore only hydrualic power to extend the ram



Don't you need a double acting ram so you will have a pressure in both direction

its a double acting ram i think. but single throw dirction. takes 2 hoses.

keep up the good work people,


there is some guys in here who have some idea on this, but others i think just like to see their own typing, those people should stick to dress making, hydraulics is very dangerous stuff,

screwy knows what has to be done to fix this problem properly,

customhilux wrote: screwy knows what has to be done to fix this problem properly,

ill take some pics of it shortly, as ill sort it over the weekend. cheers guys

This is a very long winded topic for such a simple Q

I gather from what u are trying to say is that u have a double acting, single ended ram( just like 99.9% of the rams u see on everthing) as aposed to a double acting, double ended ram (which u see on fancy buggys steering)

What ever size space u put in there it will reduce the overall stroke by that amount. If u put your 30mm spacer at the rod end of the cylinder the chrome rod of your cylinder will pull all the way in still, but be 30mm shorter at full extension.

If u put the spacer behind the piston (barrel end) fully extended it will still be the same lenght as it is now but when full retracted it will be 30mm longer than what it is now.

Get it?? either way will work, all u have do do is get the cylinder in the center of its stroke and make sure the wheels are straight when u mount it.

jeep97tj wrote:This is a very long winded topic for such a simple Q

I gather from what u are trying to say is that u have a double acting, single ended ram( just like 99.9% of the rams u see on everthing) as aposed to a double acting, double ended ram (which u see on fancy buggys steering)

What ever size space u put in there it will reduce the overall stroke by that amount. If u put your 30mm spacer at the rod end of the cylinder the chrome rod of your cylinder will pull all the way in still, but be 30mm shorter at full extension.

If u put the spacer behind the piston (barrel end) fully extended it will still be the same lenght as it is now but when full retracted it will be 30mm longer than what it is now.

Get it?? either way will work, all u have do do is get the cylinder in the center of its stroke and make sure the wheels are straight when u mount it.

first person on here to acurately tell me wat i need to know which funly enough is wat the hydraulic joint i rang said too

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:

jeep97tj wrote:This is a very long winded topic for such a simple Q

I gather from what u are trying to say is that u have a double acting, single ended ram( just like 99.9% of the rams u see on everthing) as aposed to a double acting, double ended ram (which u see on fancy buggys steering)

What ever size space u put in there it will reduce the overall stroke by that amount. If u put your 30mm spacer at the rod end of the cylinder the chrome rod of your cylinder will pull all the way in still, but be 30mm shorter at full extension.

If u put the spacer behind the piston (barrel end) fully extended it will still be the same lenght as it is now but when full retracted it will be 30mm longer than what it is now.

Get it?? either way will work, all u have do do is get the cylinder in the center of its stroke and make sure the wheels are straight when u mount it.

first person on here to acurately tell me wat i need to know which funly enough is wat the hydraulic joint i rang said too

what JOINT was this ???

Custom hydraulics

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:

jeep97tj wrote:This is a very long winded topic for such a simple Q

I gather from what u are trying to say is that u have a double acting, single ended ram( just like 99.9% of the rams u see on everthing) as aposed to a double acting, double ended ram (which u see on fancy buggys steering)

What ever size space u put in there it will reduce the overall stroke by that amount. If u put your 30mm spacer at the rod end of the cylinder the chrome rod of your cylinder will pull all the way in still, but be 30mm shorter at full extension.

If u put the spacer behind the piston (barrel end) fully extended it will still be the same lenght as it is now but when full retracted it will be 30mm longer than what it is now.

Get it?? either way will work, all u have do do is get the cylinder in the center of its stroke and make sure the wheels are straight when u mount it.

first person on here to acurately tell me wat i need to know which funly enough is wat the hydraulic joint i rang said too

Sorry, I seen this topic when when it was only about 4 posts old and thought someone else would steer u right as it was only a simple Q. Only had a second look because i thought it was strange for this topic still to be going after 3 days.

I skip over alot of topics because i suuck at typing and spelling.

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:Custom hydraulics

next time i'll charge u if ya calling me at work, and not as a mate.

customhilux wrote:

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:Custom hydraulics

next time i'll charge u if ya calling me at work, and not as a mate.

hahahaha, no worries. ill call ya after knock off next time

how do you go if you want to shorten the rod? I assume you have to grind off the outside layer of hard chrome before you can cut a new thread on the end? how thick is the chrome? is the steel underneath machineable? anyone done this before?


Andy

andrew e wrote:how do you go if you want to shorten the rod? I assume you have to grind off the outside layer of hard chrome before you can cut a new thread on the end? how thick is the chrome? is the steel underneath machineable? anyone done this before?


Andy

The fitters at work make and repair rams. There seems to be no difficulting turning the shafts down on a lathe. But lathe tips are a lot better than they used to be.