Page 2 of 3

Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:29 pm
by hotturbo
I'm making some up at the moment, will take a shot once finished ;)

Im doing a high mount version.

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 6:36 am
by azzad
With ur highmount version are you turning the manifold upside down?

Is it possible?

What Turbo you usin Clarkie?

I reckon I will ditch the main air filter and use the stock prefilter.

Great work, what sort of dollars?

Dazza

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:01 pm
by hotturbo
A turbo is mounted on top of manifold on a high mount.

It will look the similar to this.

Image

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 7:38 pm
by Clarkie
azzad wrote:With ur highmount version are you turning the manifold upside down?

Is it possible?

What Turbo you usin Clarkie?

I reckon I will ditch the main air filter and use the stock prefilter.

Great work, what sort of dollars?

Dazza
Turbo is a Hitach HT-18(from mazda dac-dac,dont tell anyone )I brought second hand $300.Plus approx $250-350 for mandel bends,fittings,flanges,gaskets,heat tape,rubber bends for intake etc total about $700 inc 21/2 inch exhast (has 3" dump pipe)
starts to boost about 1400rpm but doesnt pull till about 1700-1800rpm.Is very responesive in low range(much more than I thought it would be anyway)

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:05 pm
by azzad
hotturbo wrote:A turbo is mounted on top of manifold on a high mount.

It will look the similar to this.
I actually thought you ment u were doing highmounts from the std manifold. :roll:

I understand what a high and low mount manifold is :D

Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 8:20 pm
by sidewayz
ok, ok. what i realy wana know is;

is the factory TURBO gu td42 (either intercooled or not) exhaust manifold turbo flange a t3 size? if not what is it?

also, is the factory rb30 turbo motor or rb25 turbo motor exhaust manifold turbo flange a t3 also?

ie; are turbo's interchangeable from a rb25det to a gu turbo td42???

those manifolds look pretty tidy, are they locally made or just a imported chineese product?

cheers

matty

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:26 am
by nastytroll
hitachi HT-18 are fitted to GU factory turbo motors water cooled and oil only depending on model, done know the difference interaly to the mazda units though. I think the gu manifold has a T25/T28 flange but not sure, maybe some else may know.

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:03 am
by Dzltec
Standard guturbo manifold has a t3 flange, garrett gt25-28 series turbos have a t25, so you need an adapter to make fit.


Andy

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:59 am
by hotrod4x4
That manifold looks like one of the Chinese imports.

If it is, its not worth the headache.

They all crack.
you'd be lucky to get 6months use before pulling it all apart to fix n
re-weld etc.

best to spend the money and get a local version

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:35 am
by Mulisha
If ur looking for any custom turbo's manifolds or turbo kits or tunning in VIC look at this guy.

I got a turbo kit from him for a Tb42 and very happy so far with what i got and made 290rwhp on 33's ..

It's better to buy once not twice.

Cheers

Rick.

http://www.cveperformance.com/

Let him know that Rick put u on to him :cool: :lol: :D

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:26 pm
by sidewayz
thanx for the info andy :)

Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:36 pm
by hotturbo
That picture is of a custom supra manifold i found on the net just to give an idea.

The reason some of the Chinese manifolds crack is they don't have enough bracing. Also a lot of vehicles have exhaust systems that are hung loosely or are not supported enough which will put pressure on the manifold.

All stainless manifolds will expand and move more than factory cast manifolds but performance is far superior. ;)

Used in a 4wd these manifolds obviously need to be tough.

custom turbo

Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2007 7:26 am
by eighty8
So what size a/r ratio turbo are people using for their set up and what results are you getting?.

From what I understand, a smaller ratio ( .48) would come on early and a larger ratio (.63) would come on at a higher rpm. ?. What is a suitable size for TD ?.

I dont want to get the wrong sized unit and then find that it won't boost up untill 4grand or something like that.. Just looking to improve its pulling/cruising power up hills like most people are.

thanks for any feed back,
alex.

Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 10:09 am
by vanbox
hope im not hijacking the thread here, but i read in one of the 4wd monthly magazines (fairly recent) of a company in mackay that exchanges your factory turbo from a gu td42t with a high flowed one. not sure of cost but i would be looking into that possibly.

paul

Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 10:22 pm
by coxy321
choppa1978 wrote:2nd hand turbo use a VL commodore standard tubo/fj20 intercooled turbo/vg30 early turbo, i have tried rb20 rb25 gt25/gt28/gt28-60 gt28-86r
and none of these work as good and as reliable as the above mentioned
Can you give me some more info on why these aren't any good? The reason i ask is cause there's an awful lot of TD42's using GT25's and GT28's without any dramas.

Coxy

Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:29 pm
by GQ4.2
RB30, RB20,RB25 turbo's are T3 flange pattern

Turbo's off RB26 and SR20's are T25 pattern

im interested in what sort of power people are making (dyno results) from their turbo installs

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 11:50 am
by coxy321
I was thinking about turbo's the other night, and thought of the following...

On my 180B, i opted for a bigger turbo (bigger exhaust turbine/housing) so that i could drive around town comfortably under 2500-3000rpm off boost, which gives better driveability, is "safer", and draws less attention.

Considering that i'm happy with the low-end "tractor" style performance that my GQ has (up till about 2000rpm), i'm stuck between the option of
a) small turbo, more power/torque at low RPM, no good for cruising at high speed
b) mid range turbo, ok accross the rev range, but not outstanding anywhere
c) bigger turbo, same low rpm performance as current, but gives it a kick up the arse from 2500rpm or so.

I'm a pretty sedate driver, however i do like the idea of being able to "drive around" the boost threshhold (ie. dont work the motor above the point at where boost starts to come on). Usually the only time i rev the motor is when i'm stuck/nearly stuck and i need some extra herbs to push it on through.

Coxy

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:33 pm
by love ke70
do none of you guys run an aneroid pump? to increase fuel with boost?

to be honest, when you look at everything you get with a kit, the 4K is very worth it.
saves alot of fucking around and will work better than all the slap together jobs.
for example, the change of air cleaner box so it flows more air, all the braided lines already made.
my workshop does the fitting for 400, so its not worth the headache of fucking up on what is essentially a 3 or 4000 dollar motor to replace...

cheers, andrew

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:25 pm
by macey
Iv got a GT-28 roller bearing turbo and its the best set up iv had. Itsd on a custom extractor high rise manifold from Race Tech in Dandenong,Vic.

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:06 am
by currentlyoffline
Maybe some of the facts from this thread should be stickied...
ie:

Standard GU Turbo Manifold has a t3 Flange and matches up to a Hitachi HT-18 turbo.

This manifold is different to that found on the rb series of motors

Garret gt25-28 series turbo have a t25 pattern flange, but an adapter will make these fit to t3

Choose your turbo before sourcing a manifold as there might be a huge number of variables in relation to different mounts for turbos, even in td/tb42 configuration.

Anyone know the a/r ratio of the stock GU Hitachi, to be able to source a similar, or better flowing setup ?

What is the best ratio for optimum daily driver in a td42and which housing/turbo achieves this with good exhaust gas temps and,

Is there a second hand turbo off a factory turbo setup, ie mitsubishi, toyota, nissan, ford xr6,etc,etc, which would be desirable as the optimum setup for a TD42, ideally with a t3 mount to bolt straight onto a manifold that would be available anywhere ?

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 8:49 am
by coxy321
love ke70 wrote:do none of you guys run an aneroid pump? to increase fuel with boost?

to be honest, when you look at everything you get with a kit, the 4K is very worth it.
saves alot of . around and will work better than all the slap together jobs.
for example, the change of air cleaner box so it flows more air, all the braided lines already made.
my workshop does the fitting for 400, so its not worth the headache of . up on what is essentially a 3 or 4000 dollar motor to replace...
My local diesel mechanic is an agent/seller of the turbo glide kits.

http://www.turboglide.com.au/index.cfm? ... duct_ID=83

$3700 fitted is a pretty good price, although i wouldn't mind doing it myself. They use a GT28 ball bearing etc. The local feller has sold about half a dozen and all are very happy, the only issue i have is that he tunes them on the road ie. he hooks up the pyro and actually road tests them. Not too sure if this is as good as a fixed dyno tune.

I think the boost compensator/aneroid setup is about $800 extra from memory (might've been changeover....)

Coxy

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 10:44 pm
by PGS 4WD
vanbox wrote:hope im not hijacking the thread here, but i read in one of the 4wd monthly magazines (fairly recent) of a company in mackay that exchanges your factory turbo from a gu td42t with a high flowed one. not sure of cost but i would be looking into that possibly.

paul
MTQ have been doing that for some time using Garrett internals. They also make a flash T3 to T25 flange adapter.


Joel

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:42 pm
by Clarkie
made some small changes to intake system,moved batterys to behind rear seats which has given me room to change air cleaner system.
Using air filter box from Ford courier(air filter approx 70% more surface area than std nissan one)
snorkel goes streight into air box then intake on turbo,not finished at this stage so cant say if theres any change in performance yate.




Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj65 ... 020976.jpg


Not sure why pics not coming up,did the same as normal.
Follow the link and go through the other pics from there...

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:36 pm
by Tony WestOZ
I thought batteries in the cab were illegal (because of fumes) unless sealed in a container and vented to the outside.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:28 pm
by love ke70
that is correct tony, should be in a sealed box...
what happens when you roll...battery acid to the face and eyes...doesnt sound fun..

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:45 pm
by NutterGQ
or when you light your ciggy and all you see from the outside is

Image

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:54 pm
by Tony WestOZ
love ke70 wrote:that is correct tony, should be in a sealed box...
what happens when you roll...battery acid to the face and eyes...doesnt sound fun..
I was not thinking of a roll-over but a very valid point.

I was thinking more of if the batteries are over charged, boiling the battery resulting in fumes and or liquid escaping from the batteries.
I saw the results of this happen with a battery mounted in the boot of a car. Messy.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:05 pm
by Tony WestOZ
Thats a cracker Nutter.

I had some big Caterpiller batteries on charge in a workshop many years ago with a big sign saying so.
What does the boss do, start oxy cutting.
He was lucky to walked away with no permanent injurys.
He complaind more about the cost of replacing the batteries than anything else.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:22 pm
by coxy321
You'd have to go fully sealed gel. Optima maybe....

Just think BIG $$$$$$

Coxy

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:35 pm
by Clarkie
love ke70 wrote:that is correct tony, should be in a sealed box...
what happens when you roll...battery acid to the face and eyes...doesnt sound fun..


Batterys are fully sealed,no caps,no vents etc I used these batterys for that reason.
Have turned batterys up side down many times,no fluid leaks(not when in vehicle)
Thanks everyone for your consern though :roll:

Subjects on turbos,lets get back on track a boyz

Shane