Outer Limits 4x4 Board

one can only try it and see what happens ill still give it a go if i can get it my zook climbs steeper then you would put it on its side as you would fall over ? before it stalled???who knows wont hurt to try i've tryed every thing else. boner :)ps. i would like to try a differant cam more lift to get the carb working right any ideas.

NIK wrote: Seriously though the way you talk about the simplicity of efi over the complexity of a carb although I dont understand
Nik

It seems that every trip I go on (or drive my carby cars on) there is someone (or me) having some sort of unknown problem with their carby/timing/something that brings the bonnet up and the heads scratching. The only EFI failures we have seen in the club have been one car that was poorly wired and one fuel pump that needed a tap to get to start. These were both conversion issues.

OK, on a basic suzuki EFI motor, there are really only a few sensors, couple of temperatures, throttle position, MAP/MAF, O2 in exhaust. That's about it.

If one of them goes down, the computer tells you. If they all work, the car will start and run as well as possible in all conditions, on all angles, in all temperatures, will all fuel.

If one (or nearly all of them) fail, the car will go into open loop mode and will get you home. It will likely use a heap of fuel and drive "piggy" but it will get you home.

about the only thing an EFI car 100% needs different to a carby car is power to the computer and a running fuel pump. fuel pumps are very reliable if an in tank pump is used as they are cooled and lubricated by the fuel in the tank.

I can't argue about the cost being higher than carby, or that some new knowledge is required, but for most of us, our EFI cars will run their whole service life with almost no attention to the EFI system, even in off road conditions.

I have wired/rewired 4 efi conversions and they have all pretty much just fired up and ran reliably in all conditions.

I know nothing about the internal workings of a carby and challenge anyone who thinks they can pull a carby apart in the bush and actually fix a problem. Unless you can do this (and I'm not having a go) you can't bash any element of EFI function, because the EFI will actually try to keep the car running, a carb doesn't give a stuff. Clearly, some people do have enough carb knowledge to fix them (and know webers very well) but for someone starting with minimal fuel system knowledge (of EFI or carby) I still say EFI is easier to get your head around.

Steve.

You know what they say a little bit of knowledge is dangerous..
I definately agree for someone not mechanicaly inclined efi would be the go.
But ask the guys in my club Im a tinkerer so if I didnt have a carb to Tweak geez then I would have to relax and enjoy the ride!
i can completely stip my carb with a srewdriver and shifter and I get satisfaction from doing it, Id be lost with efi plug in and play weres the fun in that
Nik

nothing like pulling your weber apart on the track at least you give the crew a break to have a look around

boner59 wrote:nothing like pulling your weber apart on the track at least you give the crew a break to have a look around

That's what swapping CV's is for Gives us EFI guys time to put our bonnets up and feed the envy when we can sit back and watch

Steve.

Just an update on my weber, I snet it to allcarb to get the throttle shafts rebushed as they were a bit loose. They also diagnosed a faulty power valve. While I had it apart I fixed the power valve and installed a 180 secondary air jet along with a ramflo filter. So now I have,
prim / sec
idle 50 55
main 140 140
air 170 180
aux 3.5 4.5
e tubes f66 f66
I pulles great all the way through, but if the secondaries are opened before 4500rpm there is no change but if opened at 4500rpm its like hitting power band it FLIES.
I still have to change to f50 e tubes as the f66 makes it run rich.
Nik

Pretty close to what im running. If ya sift thru the other weber post I should have my jetting up. Getting an A/F of between 12.5to 13.5:1 on a wideband o2 on the dyno.
Dan

I forgot to say I also did away with the regulater as it was causing more problems than it fixed. I hooked the return from the carb back up and jammed an old air jet in the line to restrict the return. So now it gets max fuel when it needs it but bypasses it when its not needed. This helped heaps I also set the float to 35mm-38mm and instaled a on/off switch for the fuel pump so I can turn it off down hill so it gravity feeds.
These mods got rid off 99% of the stutter on steep ledges and made it more manageble on steep drop offs (it still runs rich but as long as your using the gears for compression it still runs)
Nik