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HELP WITH PERTRONIX IGNITOR, electronic ignition,
Sad to hear your having a shitful of trouble with it.bucketofbolts wrote:now the battery is dead, its on charge,
i put an external earth from the coil to the bolt, its showing there is an earth there but little current,
so see what happens tomorrow,
Looks like youve tried everything possible already.
When I did mine, it started pretty much straight away.
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
aaahhhhhhh,rOd wrote:Sad to hear your having a shitful of trouble with it.bucketofbolts wrote:now the battery is dead, its on charge,
i put an external earth from the coil to the bolt, its showing there is an earth there but little current,
so see what happens tomorrow,
Looks like youve tried everything possible already.
When I did mine, it started pretty much straight away.
yeah it should be that easy, find out tomorrow when its fully charged if what i've done tonight has changed anything,
bloody hope so,
cheers ray
bucketofbolts is sold, :(
ok, here's where im at,
i have run the red ignitor wire to the positive side of the ballist resistor,
black wire to the earth on the coil,
fully charged battery and have got someone to wind it over while i moved the dizzy slowly from one end to the other and back,
still nothing, wtf is going on, i'm ready to ditch this idea,
i have run the red ignitor wire to the positive side of the ballist resistor,
black wire to the earth on the coil,
fully charged battery and have got someone to wind it over while i moved the dizzy slowly from one end to the other and back,
still nothing, wtf is going on, i'm ready to ditch this idea,
bucketofbolts is sold, :(
do it to try it but dont use it like that because u will fry ur coil in no time if its meant to run with a resistor, u can get a new one for like $5 from supercheap, but yeh u should have ur ignitor wire on the 12v side of the ballast resistor anyway but ur coil should stll be gettin 8V so 5.5 wont be helpin ur coil any, id say thats why its not goin
retro rockets got back to me today and give me some ideas to look at,
they said to run a wire from the neg on batt to the black wire on the multi meter and red wire from multi meter to ignitor base plate,
i should get 0.2ohms, and i had 0.8ohms,
so i cleaned up under the ignitor, under the earth in the dizzy and under the coil, and its down to 0.5ohms now,
any ideas
they said to run a wire from the neg on batt to the black wire on the multi meter and red wire from multi meter to ignitor base plate,
i should get 0.2ohms, and i had 0.8ohms,
so i cleaned up under the ignitor, under the earth in the dizzy and under the coil, and its down to 0.5ohms now,
any ideas
bucketofbolts is sold, :(
Remove the earth strap that goes from the battery or body earth to the engine block and clean it up. Also check the connections for corrosion ect.
A quick way to test would be run an earth wire direct from the battery negative to the body of the dizzy. If it starts then with a good direct earth you know where to look.
Matt
A quick way to test would be run an earth wire direct from the battery negative to the body of the dizzy. If it starts then with a good direct earth you know where to look.
Matt
When you say 11.84 volts at ignitor wires, what are you testing? I'd say you might have incorrectly hooked the thing up to start with and fried it perhaps. Was the engine running before you started playing, or did you fit this to try and fix a problem? It just doesn't make sense why you are having trouble when they are so simple to setup with the instructions they give you.bucketofbolts wrote:here's where im at,
0.00ohms at the ignitor earth, thats that sorted,
11.84volts @ ignitor wires with power on, (battery's on charge, so may go up)
5.10volts @ the coil, (with power on,)
11.77volts @ ballist resistor (with power on)
does that sound about right,
ray
where i joined the wires is where i tested it, ( i had to extend the wire sto reach the coil)lowexf wrote:When you say 11.84 volts at ignitor wires, what are you testing? I'd say you might have incorrectly hooked the thing up to start with and fried it perhaps. Was the engine running before you started playing, or did you fit this to try and fix a problem? It just doesn't make sense why you are having trouble when they are so simple to setup with the instructions they give you.bucketofbolts wrote:here's where im at,
0.00ohms at the ignitor earth, thats that sorted,
11.84volts @ ignitor wires with power on, (battery's on charge, so may go up)
5.10volts @ the coil, (with power on,)
11.77volts @ ballist resistor (with power on)
does that sound about right,
ray
the engine was running before, but ruff, so instead of sending it to ultra tune, i thought i would install the ignitor and change plugs, leads etc,
i have only set up the ignitor one way, red wire direct from the power side of the ballist resistor and black wire to earth on the coil,
i have heard so many different ways,
straight from the battery, red wire to pos on coil, and black wire to neg on coil, etc,
but i have found out that what i have done is right, just isnt working,
i did hae a bad earth to start with, but thats sorted now,
not sure what else it can be
bucketofbolts is sold, :(
depending on what brand coil u have that 5v isnt right for any normal coil that runs a ballast resistor it should be more like 8v, heres a check to do on ur coil
resistance between ur coil + and coil - should be between 1.08-1.32 ohms
resistance between ur coil + and high tension lead output 9 and 13.4 k/ohms
resistance between ur coil + and coil - should be between 1.08-1.32 ohms
resistance between ur coil + and high tension lead output 9 and 13.4 k/ohms
When you say earth on the coil, you mean the coil negative terminal don't you?, not the earth bracket that holds the coil on...bucketofbolts wrote:ok, here's where im at,
i have run the red ignitor wire to the positive side of the ballist resistor,
black wire to the earth on the coil,
fully charged battery and have got someone to wind it over while i moved the dizzy slowly from one end to the other and back,
still nothing, wtf is going on, i'm ready to ditch this idea,
had one of these in my mq. got the dizzy redone saw it working at the shop then i took it home put it in and it didnt work. the pickup shit itself on the trip i reckon lol.
just put the points in. never had a problem since.
sounds fried to me.
does not take long just put the points back in and see if it has spark. then u get a definate answer.
just put the points in. never had a problem since.
sounds fried to me.
does not take long just put the points back in and see if it has spark. then u get a definate answer.
Hi Bucketofbolts, you seem to be having a big problem with the Pertronix. Sounds as if you might have fried the unit. I would test it like mikesmith said.
I put a Pertronix in my MQ several years ago and it has never missed a beat. Certainly beats points (provided it works) - engine revs much more freely at the higher end.
During the conversion of my carburetted truck to Efi I made drawings of the wiring as I went so I could keep track of everything and put it back the way it was if necessary. Below is the drawing of the Pertronix installation and the original Points installation. It shows both connected together but obviously I only have one setup at a time. Ignore the relay box, the tach connection and the extra fuse box which were part of my efi modification. And ignore the radio suppressor which is not relevant. The Pertronix does NOT need a capacitor (condenser) either.
The sole purpose of the red lead is to supply 12V to the Pertronix unit. The coil is just a convenient place to take it from as it is switched on and off by the ignition. The Pertronix is just a switch which earths the negative coil terminal just as conventional points do. This is the black lead.
]
I hope this is of some help in clarifying things.
I put a Pertronix in my MQ several years ago and it has never missed a beat. Certainly beats points (provided it works) - engine revs much more freely at the higher end.
During the conversion of my carburetted truck to Efi I made drawings of the wiring as I went so I could keep track of everything and put it back the way it was if necessary. Below is the drawing of the Pertronix installation and the original Points installation. It shows both connected together but obviously I only have one setup at a time. Ignore the relay box, the tach connection and the extra fuse box which were part of my efi modification. And ignore the radio suppressor which is not relevant. The Pertronix does NOT need a capacitor (condenser) either.
The sole purpose of the red lead is to supply 12V to the Pertronix unit. The coil is just a convenient place to take it from as it is switched on and off by the ignition. The Pertronix is just a switch which earths the negative coil terminal just as conventional points do. This is the black lead.
]
I hope this is of some help in clarifying things.
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
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