Page 2 of 3

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 8:38 pm
by bogged
Bitsamissin wrote:Well the GQ is here now at my place, no serious issues I believe.
Dizzy, leads, plugs are all fine but it wouldn't idle (just stalls) so we cranked the idle screw up a bit and it now seems ok. The main idle screw seems very loose and may have moved with a lot of offroad thumping (Vic Range).
The radiator looks fine to me so I'm not sure about the overheating bit.

Frank.



I would do the R&R on the radiator anyway, if he has been out a few times, would be worth it. Then you know its clean at least.

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 9:47 pm
by hottiemonster
it stalled again a few times on the way home frank. so after work tomorrow i am going to increase the idle revs a little becasue maybe 1000 is too low, i might try 1200 or maybe 1300 to see what gives.

thanks heaps for tonight, you determined the problem! :)

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:11 pm
by robbie
1000 rpm too low?

dude, most cars idle under 1000rpm..

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:13 pm
by chimpboy
hottiemonster wrote:it stalled again a few times on the way home frank. so after work tomorrow i am going to increase the idle revs a little becasue maybe 1000 is too low, i might try 1200 or maybe 1300 to see what gives.

thanks heaps for tonight, you determined the problem! :)


My 1993 petrol maverick idles at about 550 rpm. That's on the low side but it's fine with me.

Never stalls, and nor should yours. If you fix things by cranking the idle up that high then you'll just be masking the real problem.

Jason

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:14 pm
by robbie
chimpboy wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:it stalled again a few times on the way home frank. so after work tomorrow i am going to increase the idle revs a little becasue maybe 1000 is too low, i might try 1200 or maybe 1300 to see what gives.

thanks heaps for tonight, you determined the problem! :)


My 1993 petrol maverick idles at about 550 rpm. That's on the low side but it's fine with me.

Never stalls, and nor should yours. If you fix things by cranking the idle up that high then you'll just be masking the real problem.

Jason


I agree, bandaid fixes dont solve the problem.. they just make them worse over time..

sounds to me like its a carby problem..

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:20 pm
by bogged
robbie wrote:
I agree, bandaid fixes dont solve the problem.. they just make them worse over time..

sounds to me like its a carby problem..



if its a cracked head or something serious, patching it will cost you $1000's in the end.

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:33 pm
by landy_man
bogged wrote:
robbie wrote:
I agree, bandaid fixes dont solve the problem.. they just make them worse over time..

sounds to me like its a carby problem..



if its a cracked head or something serious, patching it will cost you $1000's in the end.


true dat...if you or none of your mates can fix it, pay someone....cranking the idle past a grand is not the way to fix the problem...

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:34 pm
by robbie
this is going to go on for 30 pages... look at page 1, I posted a nice pic :lol:

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:45 pm
by chimpboy
chimpboy wrote:Never stalls, and nor should yours. If you fix things by cranking the idle up that high then you'll just be masking the real problem.


robbie wrote:I agree, bandaid fixes dont solve the problem.. they just make them worse over time..

sounds to me like its a carby problem..


bogged wrote:if its a cracked head or something serious, patching it will cost you $1000's in the end.


See, the point of all this is that you need to diagnose this shit methodically or you are going to waste time (yours and other people's) and money (yours most likely) dicking around with it.

Unfortunately it's not impossible that you have a fairly serious problem as you may have gulped in some water or cracked something due to heat - getting it as hot as you did shouldn't wreck a sturdy motor like this, but getting that hot then dousing the thing in cool mud could.

If Robbie's right and it's a carby problem then I can't personally advise you on the diagnostic process as I am only really familiar with EFI.

Leaving that aside, I still think that your problem could be electrical. I suggest checking what kind of spark you've got - pull the coil lead out of the distributor and position it so that the electrode at the end is about 10mm from a grounded metal part such as the engine itself. Then turn the motor over and watch what kind of spark you get. Is it fat and blue? Then your coil is probably okay. Is it weak and yellow? We may have a coil or coil lead problem.

If the coil looked okay, move onto the spark at each cylinder. This is basically the same test but you disconnect each spark plug lead at the plug end instead (and of course you have the coil connected to the distributor again.) Fat blue sparks or weak yellow sparks?

Even if all that looks good you still have to check the plugs themselves unless you and Bitsamissin already did all that.

If you get to the end of all that then you can probably eliminate spark as your problem.

So then what? Well, since you're now familiar with the process of pulling out all the spark plugs you should probably take a deep breath and do a compression test. If that checks out then to Bogged's great disappointment you can probably conclude that the engine is okay internally.

That leaves the carby and someone else is going to have to advise you there - I will read with interest.

Was this a long post? Yes. But I really encourage you to be very methodical about this. Even mechanics who should know better are sometimes prone to just swapping in the part they think is most likely to be stuffed and to continue that process until they've blown a massive wad of cash. It really irritates me because if you just take your time and think and check each thing in sequence you can usually diagnose the problem and fix only the one thing that's stuffed.

Good luck, and don't wait another 1200km before you replace that ridiculous air intake. I swear I assumed you had taken the cover off before you took the photo, and that's why I didn't suggest the carby as a possible issue. Playing in mud with that on top of the engine seems... unwise.

Jason

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:49 pm
by robbie
chimpboy: good helpful tips for H-MO there..

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 10:59 pm
by bogged
chimpboy wrote:See, the point of all this is that you need to diagnose this shit methodically or you are going to waste time (yours and other people's) and money (yours most likely) dicking around with it.



but how else will it get to 10+ pages :armsup: :?: :armsup:

Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2003 11:01 pm
by robbie
bogged wrote:but how else will it get to 10+ pages :armsup: :?: :armsup:


like this..

PAD! :finger:

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 5:21 am
by Bitsamissin
Yeah the carby needs to be looked at then.
It just would not idle under 800rpm and would just stall.
It's not a spark issue nor is there a blown head gasket, it seems to run ok just has this idle problem.

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 7:29 am
by bazzle
If it wont idle on PETROL below 1000rpm then idle jet is blocked. Blow out carby with airline thru idle screw hole.

If on LPG then idle mixture will need adj.
It changes with aircleaner getting dirt in it.
Piss off that one youve got and fit a proper covered one with a sealed skirt.

Bazzle

my question

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 11:37 am
by mav
my question is does it actually idle on gas/run alright on gas??
what is the fuel filter like pull it off and blow thru it backwards to normal flow into a glass jar what comes out ???

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 12:03 pm
by landy_man
boring....................

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 1:04 pm
by getdirty
hottiemonster wrote:* at the moment it is running on petrol which is shell optimax with a container of spit fire in the fuel tank


Be very careful here..... standard TB42's really don't like running extra high octane. Unless you advance the timing and do something with the ignition.

I've seen it before on a friends car, plugs burning out and all sorts of other weird problems. All caused by running optimax with octane booster, way overkill.

Re: my question

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 1:38 pm
by hottiemonster
mav wrote:my question is does it actually idle on gas/run alright on gas??
what is the fuel filter like pull it off and blow thru it backwards to normal flow into a glass jar what comes out ???


gas is fine.

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 1:39 pm
by hottiemonster
getdirty wrote:
hottiemonster wrote:* at the moment it is running on petrol which is shell optimax with a container of spit fire in the fuel tank


Be very careful here..... standard TB42's really don't like running extra high octane. Unless you advance the timing and do something with the ignition.

I've seen it before on a friends car, plugs burning out and all sorts of other weird problems. All caused by running optimax with octane booster, way overkill.


just thought i might clean the car out once with the spitfire.

is it allright to run the car on optimax all the time (shell) cause i seem to get better economy and a little more power, but not that much.

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 2:13 pm
by bazzle
Did you read my post??????????????????????????


Bazzle :roll:

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 2:16 pm
by hottiemonster
bazzle wrote:Did you read my post??????????????????????????


Bazzle :roll:


yes i did

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 2:19 pm
by Bitsamissin
I think Bazzle nailed it.
I don't know much about Patrols but was happy to have a look in case it was something obvious but in the fading light we couldn't do to much.
It's definitely carby related, my old Sigma used to do the same thing, blow out the idle jets and it was ok.
It's definitely a simple fix I reckon.
I do think a snorkel would be a very wise investment.

Also I think some of you are being a bit hard on the young bloke, he's just got the thing and is still learning (he's 19) I think he needs our help and encouragement.
I'd rather see young blokes invest in fourbies than duff duff ricer-mobiles anyday.

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 2:37 pm
by landy_man
Bitsamissin wrote:I Also I think some of you are being a bit hard on the young bloke, he's just got the thing and is still learning (he's 19) I think he needs our help and encouragement.
I'd rather see young blokes invest in fourbies than duff duff ricer-mobiles anyday.


ofcourse...... but it is all in jest obviously...he has obviously learnt a very valuable lesson....i.e. thrashing around in bogholes is a quick way to destroy your car..easy does it

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 2:43 pm
by hottiemonster
Bitsamissin wrote:I think Bazzle nailed it.
I don't know much about Patrols but was happy to have a look in case it was something obvious but in the fading light we couldn't do to much.
It's definitely carby related, my old Sigma used to do the same thing, blow out the idle jets and it was ok.
It's definitely a simple fix I reckon.
I do think a snorkel would be a very wise investment.

Also I think some of you are being a bit hard on the young bloke, he's just got the thing and is still learning (he's 19) I think he needs our help and encouragement.
I'd rather see young blokes invest in fourbies than duff duff ricer-mobiles anyday.


thanks Frank. i dont know much about the car and at the moment dad is interstate on a fishing / wheeling trip, he comes back the 5th

If he was here he would be able to help but he aint. thanks everyone for their help on this.

Now i have no idea on how to blow out the idle jets, is it easy to explain? or shall i just wait till dad comes home. casue i can still drive the car fine, but have to have the hand throttle on.

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 2:57 pm
by Surfin Alec
Did anyone think that it could be a blocked fuel filter? All that back and forthing in the mud may have stirred some crap off the bottom of the tank and sucked it up the lines to the filter and partially blocked it.

Worth a look into.

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 3:04 pm
by Bitsamissin
Maybe best to wait for your Dad to get back and he can show you how it's done so next time you can have a go at it :D

Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2003 7:22 pm
by bazzle
OK
I hear you.
Try this

Swap no 3 and 4 plug leads over.
Start engine ON PETROL

Engine should cough.
Turn off
Swap leads back

See if prob fixed.

Bazzle :)

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 2:22 pm
by hottiemonster
bazzle wrote:OK
I hear you.
Try this

Swap no 3 and 4 plug leads over.
Start engine ON PETROL

Engine should cough.
Turn off
Swap leads back

See if prob fixed.

Bazzle :)


at both ends?

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 4:14 pm
by bazzle
No, that would keep them the same. At the plug ends.
It "should" create a backfire that will blow back thru carby and clear jet..

Bazzle ;)

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2004 4:50 pm
by hottiemonster
sweet i will try that when i pick up my car later today and let you know