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Where to get a cv??

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

Posts: 152
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:21 pm
Location: Wollongong NSW

Post by gman79au »

want33s wrote:
gman79au wrote:whats a TT doubletough cv? all bar 1 cv that i've broken has been the cage and I ive always wondered why!!
Just over halfway down the page... http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samaxles.htm
thanks fo that i like the backing plate for rear axle.
Posts: 264
Joined: Tue Aug 31, 2004 4:57 pm
Location: New Zealand

Post by Rotazuk »

A bit off topic but the best way I have found to remove te cv's is to get a piece of pipe that fits over the axle and is longer than the axle . put a block of wood on the floor and slide the axle into the tube and drop the lot onto the block . Axle slides down the tube and the cv hits the pipe . All going well the axle drops out the bottom , hence the wood on the floor . Better than beating them in the vice and keeps the force square etc .

Chris
Posts: 7345
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:29 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Gwagensteve »

I'll just post a quick expl. here -

Trail Tough Double Tough front axles are replacement inner axles, CV's and Stub axles for wide track sierras.

The inner axles are 26 spline, the same as vitara and sierra rear, so they require rear side gears to be fitted (or a rear third member) to the front diff. They are Chromo throughout.

The replacement CV's are far larger, and have to be fitted before the knuckle is installed rather than installing through the spindle hole like stock.

I don't know where the CV's are sourced from, but they are very nicely finished. they do not look like a modified or remanufactured part.

The inner axles are now made by CTM and are very high quality.

I really like the concept of the Doubletough axle - it keeps all stock components and just fixes the weak area. they are invisible, require no other modifications, and in the car we are running them in in the club at the moment, they are been reliable (91:1 1st/Q78swampers/ARB front/spool rear)

I am putting a set in mine and there are another couple of sets going to be going into cars in Vic.

Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Posts: 152
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:21 pm
Location: Wollongong NSW

Post by gman79au »

they sound like the goods thats for sure and im sure there worth the dollars and time.
Posts: 7345
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:29 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Gwagensteve »

I think so.

This seems to be about as controversial as my views on SPOA, but I'd rather have the smallest lightest diff under my car built for strength rather than a heavier diff with low strength components in it.

I am confident that a doubletough CV is around as strong as stock MQ, maybe hilux, allowing that sierras almost never fail ring and pinions, nor do they break airlockers, putting hilux diffs or something under a sierra to fix a problem with breaking weak CV's just doesn't seem very smart.

I accept though that for the cost of a new centre and doubletoughs, a resourceful person can fit hiluxes.

Rear axle strength also becomes an issue, which is why I am building full floating rears- I can keep improving axleshaft material (fairly cheaply)until they don't give trouble.

In victoria, a Q78 or 36 seems to be the point that sierra rear axles get marginal. CV's seem to be able to go pretty easy at anything above 32.

I'd much rather have a 35 on sierra diffs than hilux from a weight and clearance point of view. I'll add that at the same time I'll be going 100mm over WT width so the idea is to have hilux axle width, deep rim backspacing for wheelbearing life and good scrub radius, servicable wheel bearings all round, discs on the rear, and about 1/2 the axle weight of hilux with comparable shaft strength. (and massive clearance with shaved housings)

Yes, it's a lot of work, but those that kow me know I never like to do things the easy way :roll:

Yes, I know that hiluxes can step up to longfields and beat what I have built by miles, but I don't think a sierra needs that much strength for recreational use and 35" tyres.

I plan to have the diffs built by November. I need three shafts made and the airlocker centre - can't see it being a problem.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Posts: 152
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:21 pm
Location: Wollongong NSW

Post by gman79au »

I'm with you steve I can completly understand your insanity. there are so many more issues you need to consider with complete diff replacments, as my passion is with jimny's its been hard to find solutions to brakage problems so its good to see some products being developed for the new suzi's too I found www.dgtuning.com to supply many different HD commponents including axles and CV's, rear disk brake conversions and leading and trailing arms too all for the jimnys theres a jimny on 38's very extreme but well built.
Posts: 3940
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 1:09 pm
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld

cv's

Post by want33s »

New cv's arrived this morning. Put the right hand side back together no worries. (Lucky I had some spare kingpin shims) Test drive and it still :bad-words: clunks.
So I pulled the other side (lh) apart and found this. The cv is smashed and the spline on the axle is chewed at cv end and twisted at diff end.
I bought a whole front diff, so I now have all the bits I need.
Image
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Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 8:25 pm
Location: SE Melbourne

Post by dank »

I've been exploring axle/cv issues lately due to the 34s going on and im going to try heat treating a set of OEM WT fronts to see how they go. I've broken 3 cvs with front lockrite on 31s with 4.9 transfer and lots of traction. SO i'm guessing the jump to 34s won't make life any easier for the cvs.

bigmick was running heat treated 1.3NT cvs on 35s/36s? with front and rear MIG lockers/lockrites? and he said that after heat treating he hadn't had any issues.

If the heat treating price is right it might be the go. I'm sick of the weak link in the front. A modifcation of my driving style helped to slow down the breakages but I want a zook that has a solid no nonsense drivetrain...hence the 4.9 tranny and 4.57 diff gears.... we'll see how it goes.

After a quick serach i found these three companies in melbourne:

Furnace Engineering Pty Ltd
50 Howleys Road
NOTTING HILL VIC 3168
Tel: 03 9544 2922
Fax: 03 9544 2723

DRIMetal Treatment Services Pty Ltd
8 Sarton Road
Clayton VIC 3168
Tel: 03 9543 1661
Fax: 03 9544 1568
(these guys do automotive industry and motor sport work it states on the web)

Ace-Heat Treaters Pty Ltd
148-150 Murphy Street
Richmond VIC 3121
Tel: 03 9427 7233
Fax: 03 9427 7224

If anyone has any other local melbourne contacts for heat treating let us know. I'm going to give geelong diffs a go but somewhere in melbs would be good.
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Posts: 2297
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:23 pm
Location: Melbourne-Australia

Post by MightyMouse »

DRI heat treated my front shafts and seem to be the goods.

However they were not cheap, and charged a hefty fee to get them done in what I considered was a reasonable timeframe.

Consider getting a few sets done at the same time as this spreads the setup costs.
( usual disclaimers )

It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Posts: 3722
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2003 7:32 pm
Location: perth wa

Post by bazooked »

just get a set of the us axles u will never look bak, best investment i ever did on the zook.
buggy time............
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