Outer Limits 4x4 Board

michael a wrote:I read the web page the new style module must be dirrerent to mine. All I have is a map sensor to read boost pressure. There are no other sensors fitted to mine. Wether I got ripped off or not I dont know.

I would still reccomend getting a pyro gauge anyway. It is alway better to be safe than sorry. $300 is cheap insurance.

Michael, crikey I'll say there's a difference, with mine there's bloody sensors all over the place, even the alternator,(something to do with load I was told)

I am aware there are TWO LPG fumigation systems available in Australia.
I suspect the one you have fitted may be the "other" ?
But then, if it was fitted by DIESELGAS AUSTRALIA, it becomes confused, I would've thought they'd only sell the one unit, unless yours is an earlier version ?

Regards the burning holes into pistons, IMHO, there is a little more involved in the cause of such incidences then simply exhaust temperatures, specificaly OIL condition/quality/quantity/pressures/unrestricted flow ect.
The cooling system IMHO would also come into question, after all, the old humble temp gauge, (despite some claiming once it registers HOT on the gauge, the damage's done) is there to let us know when things are happening out of the ordinary.
My own experiences with engines over 57 years, has told me the temp gauge will give ample warning IF everything else is in good working order.

Just as off side topic, when the Cam belt was replaced on my Patrol, the radiator was removed and I was blown away by the state of the radiator.
Previous owners must have done numerous river or mud crossings as the bottom half of the radiator was TOTALY BLOCKED WITH MUD.
At this stage, I had the car only 4 weeks and had no idea of what the NORMAL setting should have been on the temp gauge.
Luckily the Mech carried out the job in my driveway, thus allowing me the time to clean the whole bloody thing out before reinstalation.
Now I wonder, whether a Nissan Dealer would do that ? Somehow I seriously doubt it, they'd just whack the thing back in just as is, then hope I'd come back with a blown engine as a result, rubbin their hands together in anticipation of receiving all that lovely Moola.
To ALL diesel or petrol drivers, I'd strongly recommend you ALL keep a bloody good watch on your cooling system, ensuring it's in top notch condition, change it out every TWO years without fail, make sure the proper amount of inhibitor is added, use only distild water, keep your drive belts adjusted proerly and most of all,(I know many of you LUV mud bashin) keep that radiator C.L.E.A.N.
Wishing you all, many happy trouble free kilometres.

MJP wrote:Hey Gazza,

Where do they put the gas tank in a GU? Do you have any pics of where it is under the truck that you can post?

Ta,
Mark

Yeh gooday Mark, mate sorry no pictures, but i can tell you my guy put the gas tank in starts about , between the front and back doors and goes towards the back axle . Its about 1 mtr long and drops down approx. 20 mm below the chasis (thats the stone guard around the tank)
Cheers Gazza

Sorry I do have a wire from the alt yhis is a tacho pickup. the use one of the windings to do this it is easier than using the cam sensor so I have been told.

Its a deisel gas system , penrith fitted mine. Also my car is still on there web page as I wrote before.

I have a autometer temp gauge in mine as the oem one is crap. it never climes over 190f

michael a wrote:Sorry I do have a wire from the alt yhis is a tacho pickup. the use one of the windings to do this it is easier than using the cam sensor so I have been told.

Its a deisel gas system , penrith fitted mine. Also my car is still on there web page as I wrote before.

I have a autometer temp gauge in mine as the oem one is crap. it never climes over 190f

Gooday guys , went for my first run today, and i know its a bit early to say to much but i did just over 450 kls and used 41 lts of diesel and 20 ltrs of gas. cost of diesel $1.32=$31.06 and gas .46 =$9.20 total=$40.26 to do 450 kls. Befor the conversion it would have cost me approx. $57.00
average kls per litre was around 7.5-8. The gas has to be tuned at 1500
kls . I should have only used about 10-12 ltrs of gas. The temp gauge did not move above the normal position prior to conversion.
I will keep in touch Cheers Gazza

Gooday guys , Have been for a second run with the patrol and have got very simialar results as the first drive. Did just on 495 kls and used 55 lts of diesel and 20 ltrs gas. Cost $71.50 for diesel @ $1.30 and $10.80 for gas @ .54. Total $82.30. If i had just had the diesel to do the same kls at average of 6.5 to 6.8 a ltr = $95.00 not a great saving ,some $12-$13 per half tank, but less fuel stops generally. Touch wood so far so good. Keep in touch
Cheers Gazza

gazza 1 wrote:
Great to hear someone has some good news, and i think 2-3 k's is fantastic, thats about 20-30 % increase in fuel economy. And ocourse the extra power is great as well.There doesnt appear to be a lot to be critical of, the quieter ride. better fuel economy, more power, less servicing, better for the enviroment, better for your motor, less fuel stops,
thanks for you comments Itchyvet
Cheers Gazza

You would still be out of pocket at least $2000 including the rebate, that is a dam allot of diesel there.
Cant see where it would help out in the servicing? Oil changes, tappets and filter. They are all determined by Ks.
Extra weight and space of tank setup as it all adds up.
Takes longer to fill up, fill the diesel tank then the gas tank and how many times have you seen the pumps both togeather?
With gas it will more than likely run hotter, cant be good for your motor.
Power, get the car tuned and you will make more power.
What is the point of making 50% more power when you cant use it?
eg Under load going up a hill, temps will go up and the bloody thing turns the gas off, No 50% there.
Easy to get 50% gain on dyno but in the real world, heat soak, temp,
load from a tralier and a big hill will play havoke with your exhaust temp.


How many of you guys have a before and after readings of boost and exhaust temps?

Spend the money on a exhaust and tune and make some real power and dont worry about saving $10 per tank as you will spend more on piss for getting to the camp site quicker than your mates

Mate i too was very sceptidal, it took me over six months of research and talking to guys on forums such as this one for advise. Yer @$2000. is a lot of diesel, and it will take ages to recoupe the out lay. You only change the oil so frequently because the gunk build up which turns the oil black very quickly.After only approx. 1000 kls my oil is like brand new (clean).After speaking to Nissan at Dandenong Victoria, changing oil only needs to occur when the oil becomes contaminated (black)or becomes thin and looses consistencey. I am lucky the sevo at Hampton Park has a gas bowser right next to the diesel pump so can fill up with both at the same time. I dont know where you got the saving of $10. per tank from, i get about $20-$25.00 a tank so i can get to the camp at the time as the other guys and have slab of beer for free to share. And since i acheive about 150-200 kls extra per tank means less times for fuelling.If the temp ever gets that hot (and i hope it never does),the gas will automatically cut back or cut off ,it will just revert back to diesel only , until the temp. drops back enough to, auto. come on with diesel/gas again. But thanks for your comments
Cheers Gazza

Hey Guys,
Another system that is offered is my system, eCoshot. Don't worry, i've ok'd that i can tell you guys about it with RUFF. Gas on diesels isnt new, my grandfather first made his own system in the 60's!

it's a variable diaphram system that draws from a vapour tank and injects LPG pre turbo. Very simple type of kit.

We're seeing around 25-35% fuel savings, and about 30-40% increase in torque and power.

I got some new dyno sheets, and some video etc going up onto the website.

get onboard and check it out www.ecoshot.com.au

The beauty of our system is that we dont use converters, we dont tap water systems, we dont remap computers OR use computers chips. It is fundamentally a boost driven system.

11 years in the US, not a single warrenty

First, we use vapour tanks, done specifically for us! we also use UL regulators to pull the tank pressure down to 12psi. If you havent heard of UL, im sure you've heard of TEXAS INSTRUMENTS! We tap into the intake post turbo, take a boost reference and send it to the bottom of the ecoshot unit. There is a diaphram inside that gets driven up with the rising pressure, and allows more gas through. The delivery method of the gas is where the patent lies, not the unit itself.

We got guys doing competitive offroad, and they feel it is really giving them the edge!

One thing we haven't experienced that others have is extreme EGTs! we had a bloke just out of Ballina fit one up to his Patrol. Fully loaded this thing weighs around 3.5 tonne! it;s got all the gear!

The hottest his EGT got to was 550 degrees, but that was up through a huge hill, that he usuallly has to tackle in 2nd, in 4th!

There is savings and power to be had, believe you me. And i was very skeptical when we bought the first unit in nearly 5 years ago, but i've swung around very quickly after feeling the difference.

With you're $2000 rebate (3K in WA!?!) it's only gonna cost you $1500-$2000. But it WILL pay for itself.

We fitted a C12 CAT with it, and in one round trip Melbourne - Townsville, he's saved $1023. Money in his pocket! Oil changes have gone out from 10k to 20k! Driver is splitting less gears, and hes got an extra 115hp at the back wheels!

Just putting another option out there for you guys looking for alot more punch, and better economy, out of your Turbo diesel. Any questions, just drop me a line and i can give you my contact number! we have over 120 fitters australia wide!

Thanks for reading

Kane

eCoshot wrote:
One thing we haven't experienced that others have is extreme EGTs!

How do you keep Egts down if there is more fuel being burnt?

What is the warrantee period on the systems.

How long does fit up take?

eCoshot

Obviously it must be safe to inject gas pre turbo (if you guys have been doing it for so long without problems) but it just doesn't seem right to be putting something flammable into something that can heat up so much. Why is it so safe? Can anything go wrong here?

If your system is so much simpler why does it cost as much as the others? It seems with a simpler design you should be able to charge much less and outsell them.

The cost of the unit is in the price of the patent. We pay alot of money to get this unit and the patent outside of the US, which is partially held by the US defence force. This system was initially designed for the big aarmy ducks when they hit the beach.. they ran out of grunt, and a computer driven system couldnt be used because of its inability to get wet!

Our units could be fully submerged in water, if you were river crossing or the likes, and it would NOT be affected in any way!

EGTs: Most diesel gets burnt back half, towards the rear of your car. By increasing the efficiency from 75% to around 93%, we are burning much of the "fuels" where they are supposed to be burnt, not out the exhaust!

Injection: We are injection 1 part gas to around 45 parts air, as a vapour, at a ratio of around 10%. There is so little gas that it is actually not even combustable by itself!

Warrenty: Lifetime warrenty on our unit

Install time: A decent fitter, that has a look under your car when you discuss the fitment etc with him, can knock it over in a day quite easily... my 75 y.o grandfather did an install on a light truck in 7 hours

Thanks for the interest guys If any of you are interested, just drop me a message and i can organise a test drive for you... if you're in any state other than VIC, we have fitters who have fitted units all over AUS that are willing to take customers for a drive!

Thanks

Kane