Outer Limits 4x4 Board

As far as pre or post turbo, I asked my boss in the workshop here and he has only ever seen them post turbo, as close to the turbo as possible.

phippsy wrote:As far as pre or post turbo, I asked my boss in the workshop here and he has only ever seen them post turbo, as close to the turbo as possible.

Keep in mind the post turbo pyro read at least 150 degreess less temp than a pre turbo pyro ..

The problem with post turbo, is that as load on the turbo varies, so does inlet pressure and flows. This means the temperature drop can vary being almost nothing at low boost, and large at high boost.

Paul

phippsy wrote:As far as pre or post turbo, I asked my boss in the workshop here and he has only ever seen them post turbo, as close to the turbo as possible.

What industry is that in?
Roughly 50% of the pyro installation photos I've seen are pre turbo. Mine is pre and there's no way I'd rely on a post turbo one.

In the near future I plan to install a second probe post turbo to see what the drop actually is. I'm running up to 19psi and 750 deg c at the moment so it'll be interesting.

I'm about to go down this road myself. Having just had a full recoed engine and brand new turbo and intercooler put in, I don't intend to take the risk of damaging it.

I like the idea of pre-turbo from what I understand of the system.
What temps are in the "safe range"

There's a gauge in the US that has green/yellow/red sections which is probably simpler for my wife to understand when she drives it.

That gauge is in Fahrenheit (probably find a Celsius version somewhere if I look a bit longer), but on the F version the yellow starts at the equivalent of 480C and the red starts at the equivalent of 593C
Is that the sort of range to keep it in, or should it be kept in the green range that goes from the equivalent of 90C to around 480C ?

What range should a 4.2 Nissan be kept in?

Thanks in advance

Ezookiel wrote:I'm about to go down this road myself. Having just had a full recoed engine and brand new turbo and intercooler put in, I don't intend to take the risk of damaging it.

I like the idea of pre-turbo from what I understand of the system.
What temps are in the "safe range"

There's a gauge in the US that has green/yellow/red sections which is probably simpler for my wife to understand when she drives it.

That gauge is in Fahrenheit (probably find a Celsius version somewhere if I look a bit longer), but on the F version the yellow starts at the equivalent of 480C and the red starts at the equivalent of 593C
Is that the sort of range to keep it in, or should it be kept in the green range that goes from the equivalent of 90C to around 480C ?

What range should a 4.2 Nissan be kept in?

Thanks in advance

750 deg C is stated in several factory publications (so I've been told, I haven't seen them with my own eyes). I've heard of people running up to the equivalent of around 1000 deg C for short bursts. I don't recommend that.
Your personal safety factor will vary.

My preferred method is to set it up so you can't reach unsafe temps, then like your water temp gauge, it's more of a "what's wrong" meter.

My personal safe mx number in F it's 1250 when I reach it .. I pull my foot from the skiny pedal .. just simple as is ..

Never shutdown my engine before 350F ..

Well I have started to pull the center gauge cluster apart and i am pulling out alt meter. I had to take out the radio to get the probe though past the air vents. It's turning out to be more fiddly them I thought I not sure where I should curl up the extra probe cable any thoughts?

My VDO pyro specify that you can not ! ( under any condition ) cut the cable .. but they said you can curl, wind up or let it plain ..

Tapage wrote:My VDO pyro specify that you can not ! ( under any condition ) cut the cable .. but they said you can curl, wind up or let it plain ..

I recently had a failure where the pyro probe meets the compensating cable (all VDO). The eyelet crimp fittings they supplied fretted the red wire from the probe, resulting in an on/off reading (one bump would turn it on, two bumps would turn it off).

I cut those off, stripped the wires back and crimped them together, back to a good connection. But for accurate readings you have to make sure you crimp the two wires together, not having them bridged by the crimp sleeve. Otherwise the dissimilar metal junction works as another thermocouple probe and distorts your reading as it's temp changes.

But I'll shortly be replacing that connection with a K type mini plug (those little yellow plugs with two prongs) so I can fit a second pyro and plug and play. One line will go to my dash gauge, the other to a handheld reader in the cab.
I'll be putting my 3mm probe pre-turbo as my VDO 6mm one reacts too slowly for the EGT levels I'm currently pushing.

do you think gathering in the engine bay or behind the radio

frp88 wrote:do you think gathering in the engine bay or behind the radio

I did the engine bay, just make sure it's in a cold corner away from sharp edges and hot bits.

Now for a really stupid question.
Who do you get to FIT a pyro?
Is it a sparky ?
And exhaust place ?
A mechanic?

It's kind of a number of those factors all rolled into one I'd imagine.

Exhaust place will fit the probe no worries, the gauges are fairly easy to wire up yourself, or get a sparky I guess.

Fit it yourself

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/?p=489

what is everyones thoughts on pre turbo without removing the turbo? As stated in the above guide...will the shavings cause problems?

cheers

PAUL

lubed and magnetic drill bit, and I imagine that the filings should be pretty negligible. But it's certainly an issue when you've just spent $7K for new turbo and Intercooler, to risk damaging a turbo with metal filings.

The guide above seems to think it's not a problem, but then it's not his $7K that I've just spent.

vanbox wrote:what is everyones thoughts on pre turbo without removing the turbo? As stated in the above guide...will the shavings cause problems?

cheers

PAUL

Small shavings wouldn't be a problem, but they'll probably live for eternity in your muffler.
I'd be more concerned about spirals of swarf which could get caught in the turbine.

I take it off.

hmm....this is really getting to me now. i dont have the ability to remove the turbo.....some bolts/studs seem impossible to reach, let alone how tight they are, im worried ill snap them.

is a patrol td42 manifold cast iron?

cheers

PAUL

If you drill cast you don't get the spiral cast grinds and if you do from the bottom there would not be alot.I am going after turbo and I will be recording the as above. I don't know what they are now from factory with 5-6psi once I know I can see .

If you drill cast you don't get the spiral cast grinds and if you do from the bottom there would not be alot.I am going after turbo and I will be recording the as above. I don't know what they are now from factory with 5-6psi once I know I can see .

???

vanbox wrote:

If you drill cast you don't get the spiral cast grinds and if you do from the bottom there would not be alot.I am going after turbo and I will be recording the as above. I don't know what they are now from factory with 5-6psi once I know I can see .

???

when you drill cast iron it basically turns into a powder. You dont get spirals of swarf like steel does.
By the sound of it he is putting his probe in from the bottom of the manifold, so most of the powder will simply fall away with gravity.

The rest I dont get either