Outer Limits 4x4 Board

+dj_hansen+ wrote:
Is the x-link giving you straight line trouble, or cornering..? (i assume roll on corners) try refitting the sway bar rather than trying to engineer a lockout system for the x-link, factory parts that you know work.

Good to hear you got it sorted tho!

just tilting when cornering bud. its really not that bad.i think making a lockout for the xlink is as easy as making quick release pins for the swaybar..

cheers mark

80's_delirious wrote:

mud4b wrote:so after the wheel alignment it is driving way better, need a lockout on the xlink though, but it is still very drivable.

post up results of locking xlink, I am considering xlink but have concerns about reducing onroad handling. IMO pin the xlink and keep the sway bar with quick pins through the ends so when going offroad pull the pins and pin to a bracket on the chassis so sway bar is up out of the way

mate if your looking at buying a xlink id say go for it..
it is perfectly fine in a straight line but very slight roll in the corners, this is with no front or rear swaybars and shocks set on midway.its honestly not that bad.but offroad....WOW... i would never go back..

i dont want to stuff around with sway bars, imo they should never have come out on a proper 4wd.

cheers mark

bj on roids wrote:the standard sway bar shouldnt be a heap of effort to mod to a quick releaser etc

its easy as, i just disagree with them on a 4wd..

Mark
If you pin the link, it will have to be something substancial...because the link moves thesame way as the diff...it will also need to be a neat fit...You know, it wouldnt be too hard to make a pneumatic cylinder do the pinning for you but KISS comes to mind...and its not too bad to drive...would probably be alot better on hard shock setting http://users.tpg.com.au/adslqhab/Cruiser/ has some piccies of a home made swaybar disconnect...

all the new bits, what about steering damper?

still have to get a steering dampner.

well the caster was set to 1.5 degree. it needed more so i chopped off the xlink and rewelded it. it made it worse.

so we chopped it off again and gave the 80 positive caster, it now drives fine (to a point)... i figure because of the drop arms (must have about 5deg)are made to suit a 5 to 6" lift then adding more for a 4"lift it must have had way too much negative caster..

still sussing it out for now but it is driving better.

cheers mark

this never ends..


after sussing it out and adding positive caster it drove ok but still not like it should.

over the weekend it got worse and worse and started to shake the steering wheel out of my hands again.

it all came down to the panhard mount on the chassis being cracked right the way around (my old 80 series done this too). so we welded it up and once again it drove fine.

now i think for absolute driving feel i need to chop the xlink off once again and add negative caster and get rid of the positive...

but it is so much better to drive again.

cheers mark

Hey Mark, your havin all the fun !!!!!
My truck cracked around that same point,its a very busy part of the chassis with panhard and steering box,let me guess, your truck, Is it a early GXL ?????
Check that chassis rail it could be more welding yet !!!!!

taps wrote:Hey Mark, your havin all the fun !!!!!
My truck cracked around that same point,its a very busy part of the chassis with panhard and steering box,let me guess, your truck, Is it a early GXL ?????
Check that chassis rail it could be more welding yet !!!!!

its a sahara but yeah same as gxl. 90 model..

must be common as my last one done it too.

Mud4b, I no two dudes that went to the cape both drivin early gxl's,one of them heard this almighty CRACK and pulled over straight away,to find the only thing holding the entire chssis rail in that spot together,was about one inch of metal on the bottom of the rail. The steering box had completely come out of the rail !!!!!
He rang me and told me to check mine,sure enough monday i was making laminate plates for the rail,when we buffed the chassis to clean it up and have a look it was like lighting bolt fatigue all around that area,both sides,we fixed it and straight after that the vehicle developed a small shimy in the wheel ????????????
fixed it with a adjustable steering dampener and adjustable panhard,the truck drives fine now

taps wrote:Mud4b, I no two dudes that went to the cape both drivin early gxl's,one of them heard this almighty CRACK and pulled over straight away,to find the only thing holding the entire chssis rail in that spot together,was about one inch of metal on the bottom of the rail. The steering box had completely come out of the rail !!!!!
He rang me and told me to check mine,sure enough monday i was making laminate plates for the rail,when we buffed the chassis to clean it up and have a look it was like lighting bolt fatigue all around that area,both sides,we fixed it and straight after that the vehicle developed a small shimy in the wheel ????????????
fixed it with a adjustable steering dampener and adjustable panhard,the truck drives fine now

interesting. i have checked the chassis as i heard it does crack also but everything is fine there, it was just the panhard mount that goes onto the chassis that cracked.still have to buy a steering dampner and get rid of the old one, but it is still running positive caster so i want to change that to negative then get another wheel alignment done.

cheers mark

cheers mark

This may have been an upgrade for the later year model, but my 1997 has a brace coming back off the panhard mount to the opposite chassis rail

bj on roids wrote:This may have been an upgrade for the later year model, but my 1997 has a brace coming back off the panhard mount to the opposite chassis rail

nar they all got that. must have done something to fix the problem though.