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v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
60serius wrote:Tonka the free spool out runs in the same direction as if the brake was engaging if it did'nt the brake would not hold when engaged So the clicking should be on the reteave direction
That is what it is doing! The thing is when i pull the clutch to freespool I can only spin the drum the retreive direction and not the cable out direction which is what you would want...
Now I am making some sense..........
I think.
Last edited by ToNkA on Tue Jan 20, 2004 7:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
big red wrote:the ratchet arm hangs below the pivot facing forward and springs upwards.
Ok mine is doing all this.....
I think I have been confuzzled as when I try to freespool it and turn the drum by hand (no cable on it yet) it only spins in the retrieve direction and not the spool out direction... (this is free spool)...
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
ToNkA wrote:Ok. . This allows me to (with some force) spin the drum while the brake pawl click. This spinning goes in a direction that would have the winch rope comming from the top of the drum and not the bottom. . What the fork am I doing wrong here?
Think about it tonka if its pulling out from the top it's retreaving from the
bottom while the brake pawl is clicking
so what is wrong? absulooooootelly nothing
Just put it in, wind the cable on from the bottom wire it up and all will be good.
ToNkA wrote:Ok. . This allows me to (with some force) spin the drum while the brake pawl click. This spinning goes in a direction that would have the winch rope comming from the top of the drum and not the bottom. . What the fork am I doing wrong here?
Think about it tonka if its pulling out from the top it's retreaving from the bottom while the brake pawl is clicking so what is wrong? absulooooootelly nothing Just put it in, wind the cable on from the bottom wire it up and all will be good.
The fact it only free spools in and not out when the clutch is out. Wanting to know why this is happening.
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Tonka
I reckon the cam inside the gearbox is sticking!
you'll need to take the top of the gearbox off with the motor
remove the brake mech
the spindle the brake mounts to moves in and out this is how the brake functions, inside the gearbox you'll see a cam that slides on the brake mounting shaft, if this doesn't move freely the drum will not freespool easily if at all,
Mine was really well siezed and required lots of penetrating fluid and gentle tapping with a drift.on the cam itself hitting it towards the brake rotor.
once free and the free spool now functions freely, I carried on and stripped the shaft out from the gearbox and cleaned the surface of the shaft lubed it reassembled and it has worked fine since.
ok, my himount is on garage floor as dont have bar yet. if i disengage clutch then i can pull cable out and wind cable back on by manually turning drum. so it sounds like something is wrong with the winch, not with how u are putting cable on.
didnt you have winch serviced/modified Tonka, may need to take back to them.
tony cordell wrote:Tonka I reckon the cam inside the gearbox is sticking! you'll need to take the top of the gearbox off with the motor remove the brake mech the spindle the brake mounts to moves in and out this is how the brake functions, inside the gearbox you'll see a cam that slides on the brake mounting shaft, if this doesn't move freely the drum will not freespool easily if at all, Mine was really well siezed and required lots of penetrating fluid and gentle tapping with a drift.on the cam itself hitting it towards the brake rotor. once free and the free spool now functions freely, I carried on and stripped the shaft out from the gearbox and cleaned the surface of the shaft lubed it reassembled and it has worked fine since.
This seems to be the problem!
I have taken it appart once, to change seals etc... Looking through this site......
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Bluey wrote:if i disengage clutch then i can pull cable out and wind cable back on by manually turning drum. so it sounds like something is wrong with the winch, not with how u are putting cable on.
See tonka - i tried to tell you
Bluey wrote:didnt you have winch serviced/modified Tonka, may need to take back to them.
I think this would involve taking it back to himself and making complaints in a 3rd person role (i.e. Constanza style - "Tonka is getting angry!")...
Bluey wrote:ok, my himount is on garage floor as dont have bar yet. if i disengage clutch then i can pull cable out and wind cable back on by manually turning drum. so it sounds like something is wrong with the winch, not with how u are putting cable on.
didnt you have winch serviced/modified Tonka, may need to take back to them.
Cheers Lance
I did it myself...... lol...
My clutch works... But the Brake is still engaging on free spool out so it aint freespooling........
Have that now worked out.
Just need to fix it now re: tonys post...
Just not sure how to actually do it without ripping everything appart, which I dont want to do.
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Tonka.
you will need to strip it down again but it'll be worth it.
the brake assembly is easy to deal with when the winch is on the floor as yours is as you can lay the winch on its side for the ball bearing bit.
The pirate article is good but doesn't cover this part.
the brake works by th cam gear moving on the shaft that the brake is mounted to, this pulls the shaft inwards(towards the motor side) this compresses the discs either side of the toothed ring in the centre of the brake
mech.
take the top cover off drain the oil the cam gear will most probably wedged/stuck against the brake mech side to the point it looks like a single piece, but it will move!
if it is really stuck firm then it is best to remove the entire shaft after removing the brake.
Mie took a while but has been fine since.
I'll try and find a pic for you
back soon
47 is designed to slide inside 46 but theuy stick together when 47 gets corroded or crud gets in there.
once you have the pics let me know if I can help more.
lastly it really isn't difficult once it frees up your there!
far easier to freespoll now, iused to power out all the time
till I cooked the motor and ran the battery doen at a winch challenge last yr.
ToNkA wrote:Ok. . This allows me to (with some force) spin the drum while the brake pawl click. This spinning goes in a direction that would have the winch rope comming from the top of the drum and not the bottom. . What the fork am I doing wrong here?
Think about it tonka if its pulling out from the top it's retreaving from the bottom while the brake pawl is clicking so what is wrong? absulooooootelly nothing Just put it in, wind the cable on from the bottom wire it up and all will be good.
The fact it only free spools in and not out when the clutch is out. Wanting to know why this is happening.
all high mounts are hard to spool out.
eat your weet bix.
dont worry about it, it spools out faster than anyone can run up a hill carrying it.
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
High mounts pull from bottom.
Can be hard to freespool esp if not torqued up in bar.
HM suffers from twist, bracing bar and ears welded on rear of ally drum mounts helps here. (This is why ARB bars you have to redrill roller fairlead to get relationship right.)
Hawse should be lined up by looking thru letterbox hole and having in line with approx middle of rope depth.
Use a full layer on drum not 4 or 5 turns to hold rope.
(boat step tape works well on drum to give friction to hold rope)
Low mounts come off either side depending on 9 or 10k or as to what side you mount motor end.
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
Ok pulled it appart this evening and soaked everything in penetrine to get everything moving again. Took the circlip off the outer brake but nothing else wanted to budge. So got the hammer out and gave the shaft that the brakes on a couple of whacks and everything loosened up and it freewheels fine now.
v840 wrote:
[Not a shot at Tonka] It's like saying, hell I've got two nuts, I may as well cut one of them off for the hell of it. I ain't using it.[/NAS@T] It's ridiculous!
ToNkA wrote:Ok pulled it appart this evening and soaked everything in penetrine to get everything moving again. Took the circlip off the outer brake but nothing else wanted to budge. So got the hammer out and gave the shaft that the brakes on a couple of whacks and everything loosened up and it freewheels fine now.