Page 2 of 2
Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:08 pm
by TOY-08V
just looking at the pics u posted and noticed the angle of ur panhard rod and the steering arm, i bet the car wonders every bump u hit, am i right? the greater the angle from horizontal (the steering arm) the more bump steer u get, i found with my lux (4in lift springs and cross over steer) that when i changed to a pitman arm with a bigger drop it straightened out my steer arm and it felt HEAPS better on the road.
Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:03 pm
by Z()LTAN
a GU steering box and GU to GQ draglink would fix that somewhat
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:46 pm
by sniper
dont you have to keep the panhard and steering arm at the same angle? So it really has to stay on that sharp angle...correct
?
It handles a heaps load better after its wheel alignment. But still not 100%
And yep my rear steering arm hits the radius arms on some turns.
Would flippin my radius arms correct this. Or hi-steer is the only option?
With my castor plates im still -2 degress out in my castor
so need snake arms or flipped arms. Which would be the best option to go for in that?
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 5:55 pm
by lewy
sniper wrote:dont you have to keep the panhard and steering arm at the same angle? So it really has to stay on that sharp angle...correct
?
It handles a heaps load better after its wheel alignment. But still not 100%
And yep my rear steering arm hits the radius arms on some turns.
Would flippin my radius arms correct this. Or hi-steer is the only option?
With my castor plates im still -2 degress out in my castor
so need snake arms or flipped arms. Which would be the best option to go for in that?
Get Superior Engineering arms cheeper than snake and r just as good.
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 7:48 pm
by MissDrew
and the on going costs start
Flipped arms would be the way I would go, but they are a lot of work.
I'll say it now, in about a years time you'll pull it out and drop back down to a 4 inch lift as you'll be sick of it.
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 8:24 pm
by STUMPY
lewy wrote:dogbreath_48 wrote:lewy wrote:STUMPY wrote:
. There simply isn't any need to go the high. My experience is that the lower the truck, the better it is off road.
Well u must not do very hard off roading then...
Steve
LOL shit hay ooppss
I disagree. I don't have clearance issues, my tyres don't scrub and i'm alot more stable than an 80 with 5" lift, same tyres and lockers. How then do i drive it harder??? Point and shoot???
Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:02 pm
by DIRTY ROCK STAR
what brand is the lift?
i have coils which are 4"lifted apparently, and they are the same colour thats all. i picked them up 2nd hand so not sure on brand??
i agree with Guts unless you spend the coin and change everything its going to be a sacrifice onroad.
my 4inch lift kit has cost me $50 (i got lucky) and i am too lazy to put the castor bushes in my 80. and it wanders pretty bad but hey it keeps me awake and alert.
Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:48 pm
by sniper
springs - dobinsons
shocks - pro comp
panhards - superior
castor plates, lower trailing arms - snake racing
Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:06 am
by 80's_delirious
sniper wrote:dont you have to keep the panhard and steering arm at the same angle? So it really has to stay on that sharp angle...correct
?
It handles a heaps load better after its wheel alignment. But still not 100%
And yep my rear steering arm hits the radius arms on some turns.
Would flippin my radius arms correct this. Or hi-steer is the only option?
With my castor plates im still -2 degress out in my castor
so need snake arms or flipped arms. Which would be the best option to go for in that?
Panhard and steering arm should be kept as close as possible to parallel
a wheel alignment can only change toe in/ toe out unless they changed caster bushes. 80series caster and camber angles are built into the diff housing and are not adjustable without using caster correction bushes.
snake drop arms only have 5deg caster built into them, I would say with 6"lift you would still need caaster plates as well.
Did the wheel alignment place give you a print out of all your alignment angles as they are now?
I modified my diff housing so my caster angle is +4deg. (King pin leaning back at the top.)
Factory spec is from +2deg to +4deg.
flipping radius arms will allow you to correct caster because brackets on the diff have to be modified, so you need to modify them to suit your lift.
fitting 3deg caster bushes with you caster plates will at least give you some positive caster.
Positive caster is what keeps the car tracking straight ahead and automatically returns steering to centre after cornering