Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Nev wrote:I too agree there is no need to be laying shocks over if your still using sierra leaf packs...you just don't need them. I have done the measurements both with my current setup and how I used to run (2" spring, 2" shackle and 2" body) and the travel just isn't there to require a longer shock. I think some people are getting a bit confused when chosing their shocks. You may be using a certain amount of travel on droop but then hardly compressing the shock at all under up travel. The best way is remove all the shocks, flex it up, measure front and rear and consult a shock guide to chose the most appropriate length and valving to suit your needs. I got procomps front and rear and they are spot on the right length and offer a very balanced and quite comfy ride.

^^what he said^^

I find my calmini shocks (part of a fully comprehensively designed suspension kit made to work together) have a small amount of compression but a large amount of extension from where they sit on level ground. The suspension system as a whole (spring hieght, bumpstop hight etc) is disigned around this and it works effectively and never extends or compresses to the limits of the shock.

My OME shocks at the rear, are at full extension when sitting on level ground and no load. I have EFS springs.
I now have Gabriel shocks (Hi Ace) which allow the spring to fully extend. I need to add about 20mm to the bump stop to protect the shock on compression. OR , I can move the top mount in X amount.
Ill be doing the later, because I don't need to lay them over at 45deg (maybe 50mm) and slightly slower shock speed will be a good thing.
I also have 30mm longer shackles.
And its a Maruti.
You don't need to flex it to find the lengths. Just remove shocks and jack the body, letting the axle fully droop ( with wheels on) measure the length between shock mounts.
The Rear shocks mount inboard and full flex will make little difference to the length.
If your shackles point straight down while doing this you will need to look at extra length on them to stop them flipping (less is best ). And then you'll need to remeasure the shock lenght.
Finding the right length shock is another story.

Gospel according to Zute. [/i]

Hey, I always thought inverted shocks, meant the body of the shock is at the top, instead at the bottom as standard. example Motor bike racing forks.

Could be construed as both really.

Situations like yours is when inverting the shocks comes in handy, but only beacause you don't have the right shocks for the application and you are making them work.

And I imagine that one wheel would tavel down a little more when fully flexed then just dropped.

Hi i have a rear shock mount for my wt from a superior engineering kit for a NT i think. Does anyone know if this will be a problem being a nt? do u have to remove old sub member old mounts are on to fit it ?etc i have drop shackles. will need some more cheap shockies too.

Oscars wrote:Hi i have a rear shock mount for my wt from a superior engineering kit for a NT i think. Does anyone know if this will be a problem being a nt? do u have to remove old sub member old mounts are on to fit it ?etc i have drop shackles. will need some more cheap shockies too.

I beleive the shocks are mounted slightly different spots on the crossmember as the axles are 2" wider on the WT.

iam looking at getting some procomps for the rear. 140pair.

are these shocks good?

What application are they for? Most generic shock absorbers are far too stiff for suzukis - they only run around 150lb/" spring rate - 1/2 of what a lot of cars run.

Steve.

rear shock mount bar(superior eng) with drops.

I actually meant what application were are the shocks designed for? Ideally, you'd be looking for shocks designed for twin shock applications as they have softer valving and will work better.

A lot of US suspension suppliers run there springs very stiff to hold height and need correspondingly stiff shocks.

Absolutely the last thing you would want are shocks for a coil sprung car.

Steve.