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Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:30 am
by MightyMouse
Thanks David - have emailed them re freight costs.
I'm working on the system that with a fan of this size, I wont need the engine - put it in Neutral and turn on the fan and away we go...
Yes the PWM controller is good stuff - its not proportional though, it runs slow/fast and then both... as I recall. Can't understand why not....
Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:08 am
by murcod
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Pity we don't live closer as I've just done the same. I like that controller, I was looking at trying to make something similar up myself. Jaycar have a kit that will just switch a fan on/off, but IMHO my Feroza set up would have worked a lot better with a two stage fan and variable speed control.
I think the freight on the dual 11" fans will be a killer but I'll most likely buy the controller. I need to do some more measurements but the usually favoured Falcon fans are slightly too wide and not high enough.
It was a similar situation with the Feroza- the radiator surface area is small and it doesn't leave much choice. IIRC I had only 60mm depth to play with too. I've got miles of depth with the xl-7.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:04 pm
by MightyMouse
Shipping $55 for the 16" high performance fan - exy but I need that fan - so its on its way.
As I wont need the engine after its fitted, I might sell it and make a profit. Anyone want a Detomaso 1.6 HD-E ?
Just kidding
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:29 pm
by murcod
![Confused :?](./images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
I'm still waiting for them to get back to me with freight prices. We should have combined orders to one address and then split and forwarded on the separate order via Aussie Post and split the savings!
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 12:02 pm
by murcod
You did better than me
![Confused :?](./images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
$37 just for the controller
![Exclamation :!:](./images/smilies/icon_exclaim.gif)
or $88 for controller and dual 11" fans.
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:15 pm
by MightyMouse
Why not do something yourself - after all PWM isn't hard to do....
Thats' the way I'm heading - have a small ATMEL MEGA 8535 board, analog in and 2 channel PWM etc... Will drive some Motorola driver IC's good for 100A ( don't underestimate the inrush current )
Will go for staged proportional... might even toggle the "leading" fan to average out the wear.
Of course analog would aldo work - but I'm into digital....
The codes actually not at all complex
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:04 pm
by murcod
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
I'm an electronics tech too....
I'd just prefer something that I know is going to work/ be reliable and not look dodgy. IMHO for the price you can't go wrong on that one. Plus it's waterproof and dead easy to set up. I downloaded the instructions and basically you run the engine with fans disconnected and push a button when the lower start point is reached. Then push it again when the full speed temp is reached- job done!
I can't work out that freight price- $37 just for a tiny controller
![Confused :?](./images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
but only an additional $51 for a dual 11" fan assembly that measure roughly 595 x 420 x 100mm not including the box.
I'm thinking a single fan would be better... a lot less max current drawn and not a huge CFM drop.
Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:40 pm
by MightyMouse
Yes I know your a tech - otherwise wouldn't have bothered mentioning it.
Still as I read it its not proportional..... you get low/high and both - much better than on off but I think full proportional operation would be better.
And you do remember the Feroza's ECU temp sender voltage wanders by enough to cause problems ? Its supposedly between 400 & 600mV @ 80C, mine was 375mv with very little delta and wandered enough to give very erratic switching.
On our generation engine the ECU coolant temperature sensor is used almost exclusively for cold start control - its biased towards resolution at lower temps and little resolution when hot.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=128660
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:39 pm
by MightyMouse
My 16" high flow SPAL fan turned up today
Put it beside the "no Brand" 16" fan I currently am running and these seem to be the differences.
Blades are stronger and much sharper on the edges
Blades are fitted with a tip shroud. ( a ring on the blade ends )
Motor is heavier and "cogs" when you turn it by hand
Clearances between blades and shroud are closer on SPAL.
The SPAL shroud sits flat - the no name has a buckle - but to be fair that could have happened over time.
Its not fact just yet ( will fit it over the weekend ) but it supports everything I have been told about SPAL fans.
Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:48 pm
by 1600dave
just had a look on the DaviesCraig website, and they have an actual listing for cars, and the feroza is listed
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/documents ... _guide.pdf
and here is the fan guide with specs (feroza fan is the last page)
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/documents ... _specs.pdf
approx 13" fan, and as you can see, a rather different design to the other fans, unsure if it would make that much of a difference though, seems to flow a bit more than the 12" too, uses 2A more, and has more of a shroud surround, looks like it'd maybe be a good replacement for the mech fan, and keeping the feroza shroud. only problem i can see is 80mm depth, howver it is listed (then again, so are lots of things for certain cars, and they never seem to fit)
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:50 am
by MightyMouse
Murcod has had success with his conversion and he used a shroud ( and Fan ? ) off something else - PM him.....
I still am not confortable with a smaller fan, I do a lot of low speed off road driving and I just can't see them coping. Don't underestimate how much load you can generate in low gear for sustained driving.
Its just not the same as sitting at the traffic lights or cruising around town... you have airflow or aren't making any real power. Hard, slow off roading is VERY different.
And I still don't like the Davis Craig units..... I've had my SPAL for around a year now and apart from the NOISE when it kicks in - its been effective.
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2009 12:02 pm
by murcod
NO!!!
Don't use a Davies Craig fan..... For a start I think I only had around 65mm clearance on my'92 F300 (with old style front end). I actually originally used their 12" fan on my first attempt and it was a dismal failure.
If you're going to do a conversion then don't be a tight arse because it will only cause you problems in the long term. And I'm speaking from experience here!
I ended up using a Daewoo factory fan (Nubira I think?) from a wrecker. That worked OK (note careful wording.....) with the A/C on 40 degree days. Ideally something with more flow would have been better- or possibly switching the fan on earlier might have helped???
I've just finished converting my XL-7 and used a Spal twin 11" fan assembly. It is nothing short of awesome and survived a "baptism of fire" with a 46 degree C day and regular days over 40 in the last three weeks. It actually performs better than the viscous hub fan (verified by monitoring the ECU temp sensor feedback.)
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2009 7:19 am
by MightyMouse
SO there you have it.... from two people who have tried the easy way and had to go back and do it properly.
Once again save a few bucks on something else - a damaged engine duw to overheating is going to cost big time.
Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2009 11:16 am
by nebivedu
Same here! I also used a daewoo nubira fan and 84 degres celsius thermoswitch (just -) fited on back of the machine. i also mounted switch inside the car, that i could switch it manualy.