Outer Limits 4x4 Board

One question. What type of 4wd are you trying to drill the chassie of? Some are heat treated.

Prado.

I wonder why I had no trouble with all the smaller steps up to 10mm with my cheap set of drill bits

Regarding the possibility of weakening the chassis, I'd put a lot more thought into it if I were drilling anywhere important, but I'm drilling right at the ends where it isn't supporting much so I'm pretty sure it's safe.

Prado will be fine.

[quote="awill4x4 Just be glad your not doing this on stainless steel as you generally have to use reground carbide tipped masonry bits to get through an overheated drill hole in stainless.
Regards Andrew.[/quote]

Yeah theres nothin worse, you really gotta know what your doin with stainless. I would doubt very much if you weakened your chassis at all

Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.

stepping from 10 to 12 is a bit 2 small of a step i normally go a 5 or 6 pilot then step up to the 12 , gives the cutting face a lil more support but the web is still free to turn.

BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.

You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?

I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:

BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.

You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?

I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.

Steve.

drill bits cheap? if you buy good ones, there not cheap enough to just toss them out when the get a bit dull.

I keep my eyes on bunnings prices if I need new bits, they sell sets off cheap as chips occasionally. I always seem to wear out the same sizes though, so I buy common sizes in packs from engineers supplies

A bit of practice on the bench grinder you can touch up a drill bit in about 60 seconds and keep it sharp, that way they dont get so blunt it becomes a chore to sharpen them.

Gwagensteve wrote:

BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.

You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?

I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.

Steve.

Ill be happy to take all your old drill bits off you then thanks.

There's lots of vids on youtube about commercial drill sharpeners.. but none for doing it with a bench grinder.. does anyone who knows the right technique wanna do a quick vid ?

just to be a bit more precise sueface speed is 318V/D. It does make a difference when talkin high speed machines.

314 x V (velocity of cutting tool ) / D (diameter of Tool or cercumference of rotating part )

5mm to 6mm for pilot hole unless its goin to be a big hole

cobolt stub drills are good all other cobolt are over rated in my opinion, better off sharpening standard HSS

Treforlex should not be used for machine tapping or cutting or drilling

Tap magik is great for tapping holes n drilling small holes 0.2mm to 2mm

Rocol is good but messy, make sure you clean all surfaces that come into contact with Rocol well or it will cause it to rust.

Soluble oil in good in a spray bottle for drilling holes

Artu drills are cheap drills with a braized in carbide insert good for drilling hard steel, I have drilled 71 rockwell dies with them, a file is 57 to 58 rockwell. It takes a Cubic Boron Nitrite (CBN, artificial diamond) grinding wheel to sharpen masonary drills properly to cut steel


If you want drills sharpened n dont know how, most saw n tool sharpeners will do it for you

anyone else gettin a techno chubby from this thread?

RUFF wrote:
Ill be happy to take all your old drill bits off you then thanks.

Me too!

The Bosch sharpeners that go on the end of your drill sharpen bits ok. Skip the cheap one's though.

Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.

Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:The Bosch sharpeners that go on the end of your drill sharpen bits ok. Skip the cheap one's though.

Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.

Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.

But a bench grinder does a lot more than just sharpen drill bits!

You can do double/triple cut bits on a bench grinder for large bits (e.g. 15+ mm or so)

ISUZUROVER wrote:

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:The Bosch sharpeners that go on the end of your drill sharpen bits ok. Skip the cheap one's though.

Tradetools has a nice little 240v sharpener that will do it for you.

Personally, I love the double or triple cut bits liek a plit point, but have never found a way to do it myself.

But a bench grinder does a lot more than just sharpen drill bits!

You can do double/triple cut bits on a bench grinder for large bits (e.g. 15+ mm or so)

its called web releif, it can be done on 3mm + drills with a bench grinder but the wheel needs to have a sharp edge. In my opinion bench grinders are only used for sharpening tools.

The smallest drills I have sharpened by hand was 1.4mm using a surface grinder wheel, I was tapping the end of brazing rods with an 0ba tap.

nastytroll wrote:Treforlex should not be used for machine tapping or cutting or drilling

Why?

It is casnogenic as a vapour, can be absorbed through nasal pasage n cause growth on frontal loabs.

It used to have written on tin "hand tapping only", I havent read one in a long time though. It does work well though

pickle past for stainless is another to watch out for, it is marked as corrosive but does not burn, it breakes down calcium in your bones as it get absorbed through skin, Hydroflori acid.

nastytroll wrote:It is casnogenic as a vapour, can be absorbed through nasal pasage n cause growth on frontal loabs.

It used to have written on tin "hand tapping only", I havent read one in a long time though. It does work well though

I knew you were going to say this. Thats why i asked. This is no longer true they changed the make up of this product years ago. It is now safe to use as a drilling compound and tapping compound. Have used it for at least 5 years now for both.

nastytroll wrote:pickle past for stainless is another to watch out for, it is marked as corrosive but does not burn, it breakes down calcium in your bones as it get absorbed through skin, Hydroflori acid.

Same as most decent aluminium cleaners. I worked as a powdercoater for a few years and was in contact with a lot of Hydrophloric Acid. Im not looking forward to life when i get older.

2" drills are fun to sharpen on a 1" wide wheel ...
















ps post me ur blunt drills aswell

2" drill = 1 and abit inch either side! easy.....Try a 4" with a 1" with outer edging burnt away and cutting tip chipped by noobs at work that aint got a fookin clue.

GRPABT1 wrote:You can use WD40 just to lube the drill bit but it wont work as good as trefolex or the like to aid in cutting.

wd40 is shit ( even for uses that it was designed for, use INOX INSTEAD)

but for drilling, use treoflex, its top stuff!

Jes

Hi all...If your pistol drill doesnt go slow enough,pull and release on the trigger as fast or as slow as needed to get the rite speed,you will feel it cutting on the rite speed.

Gwagensteve wrote:

BlueSuzy wrote:Throwing out drill bits! Ah what a waste of money! Just re sharpen them. If you have a bench grinder makes it so much easier, Where abouts u situated? Send me a pm. I may be able to sharpen them for you.

You own a 4WD and you're doing an engine swap and you think throwing out drill bits is a waste of money?

I think drills are cheap and if I'm doing a new job I buy a new drill as part of getting things ready for the job. I've had a go at sharpening drills but I don't think it's very effective as a DIY job and drills can last a long time if they're not abused.

Steve.

yeah i put my hand up for your old drill bits aswell.

its a waste of money throwing out a bit you can re-sharpen on a bench grinder in about 20 seconds flat!

JEs