Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i no that the patrol diffs for instance running 35s the tyres will stick out of the guards around a incha nd a half. which will increase your wheel track and give you more stability.

Yep thats true

Have to admit the standard 4.11 gears and wider track are a plus.

In fact my turning circle is alot more tighter with the GQ in the front running standard offset

Pros-
4.11's
wider track
tougher and cheap axles
easy to get decent wheels
can go the new pro lockers

Cons-
need mod plate for diffs $800
Have to mod front and rear shafts
hastle compared to just upgrading axles/CV's

all in all I wouldn't bother changing diffs again..my next rangie will run maxidrives

Camo

As i said before it is all about budget, time and being able to do it yourself as if you got someone else to do it it would cost alot more than maxis.

Another Pro
Better brakes by so far it aint funny.

Oh ye dont mod the tailshaft it is cheaper and easier to mod the pinion flanges.

does anyone have a step by step write up on fitting gq diffs into a s1 disco. i would like to print it and see exactly how hard its going to be and wether i can do it in house instead of taking somewhere.

Wasnt as hard as i expected the rear was realy just cutting off the spring mounts and all the little bits not required. I used the existing mounts for the radius arms cause they were only about 20mm off the rangy and the arms fit them only had to make washer to reduce bolt hole and weld in place i used the top machined part of the A frame mount and fabed up new sides, I used the original shock mounts cause i was alread using 80 series shocks for the long travel with a pin to eye adaptor so just removed the adaptor. That was the rear done except brake lines of cause.Oh and the load leveler needs to be removed as it doesnt fit (diff housing to big)
The front was all patrol except the spring mounts and the steering arm and the panhard have to be modded.
The pinion flanges on both need little bit of machining and new holes drilled to fit the rangy shafts but all in all was pretty easy.
And at 450 for front GQ with lockright locker and 400 for rear 80 with LSD and all 4.1 ratio way cheaper than maxis or anything.
The brakes were pretty easy i used the master of a disco the one with 2 outlets instead of four, putting one line to the front and using the gq flex line and brake setup. The other i put to the proportioning valve and blocked off the other outlet that is usualy for another front line in the proportioning valve.All of the steel lines i made new ones up that are rover one end and gq or 80s the other. This seems to work very well as the breaks are great by itself a massive upgrade.
Good luck if ya decide to go with it just be patient i made couple of costly mistakes but ya live and learn if ya need any help give us a yell i will try to help if i can.
Also here are some pics







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Great write-up

just started on fitting GQs under a Disco 1 (F & R) so keen to hear from anyone who has tackled the rear (the front is covered above). Trailing arms and shocks are not a problem but a bit worried about getting a good compromise on the geometry with the A-frame above the diff and the risk of vibration on the offset diff. ..

All hints gratefully received

this better brakes thing has me intrigued.
better than Disco brakes ?
anyone done a 'fender ?

Jumping from the Defender to the GU on a daily basis, the Defender stops better and has a better pedal than the GU ever has.
The GU should be better at resisting fade as the discs are incredibly wide.

Admittedly the Defender has braided stainless lines which help the pedal feel....

eay fix, fit the defender calipers to the disco fronts - no more brake issues and much longer lasting pads.

Urbanredneck

What arms did you use rangie or nissan/toyota?

What where the other mods you did, to the spring mounts, the panhard, etc?

I have just bought my first Rangie and have never done a conversion like this. I need as much help as I can get.

Thanks in advance

With the front it is all nissan arms (i know they fit mine 89 not sure about ealier as they have different size arms) the spring and shock mount were cut off the rangey diff and the little hats off the nissan diff then fitted the rangey items on the nissan diff(last photo above).
the panhard and steering arm are half and half as the solid (rangie) stuff fits inside the patrol tubes and make sure to get good strong weld has worked well so far.
The rear is rangie arms in original cruiser mounting with washer made to reduce the bolt hole size.And rangie spring mounts cut off and welded on cruiser diff.
Cheers Damo

rick130 wrote:this better brakes thing has me intrigued.
better than Disco brakes ?
anyone done a 'fender ?

Jumping from the Defender to the GU on a daily basis, the Defender stops better and has a better pedal than the GU ever has.
The GU should be better at resisting fade as the discs are incredibly wide.

Admittedly the Defender has braided stainless lines which help the pedal feel....

I just put it down to the diameter difference and also using the rangie/disco stuff to run them. So you actualy are increasing the rotor size but still utilizing a sytem that works ok with the smaller discs.
But definately stops much better now with the 35's

That makes it clearer, thanks

Getting a strong weld shouldn't be hard, I'm a welder.

Now I just gotta find some diffs.

Corgie Carrier wrote:That makes it clearer, thanks

Getting a strong weld shouldn't be hard, I'm a welder.

Now I just gotta find some diffs.

Ye it helps being a welder or fabricator as is my trade also I ended up using a stick weld (on the panhard and steering arm) as only had small mig at home.
I used my caddy and the welds came up mint.
Good luck with it.

i just started this conversion all the info really comes in handy. i might have a set of front and rear gq diffs complete up for grabs if anyones interested

How much for the front diff?

I think I'll go for the lc 80 in the rear.

if your intersted in the front diff give us a call only prob is im in sydney and your in victoria if postage isnt an issue for you than it ill be ok i no the ratio is 4.1s i cangive you the complete front diff from disc to disc including the front radius arms as youll need this for the conversion for maybe round 300. well let us no. cheers

Also forgot to mention that the front tailshaft actualy needs to be shortened but is not all that expensive around $100 bux at driveshaft place was done in a day.

if your intersted in the front diff give us a call only prob is im in sydney and your in victoria if postage isnt an issue for you than it ill be ok i no the ratio is 4.1s i cangive you the complete front diff from disc to disc including the front radius arms as youll need this for the conversion for maybe round 300. well let us no. cheers

How far are you from Smithfield? Could you get it there?
I'll have a talk to a mate, tomorrow, who works for a transport company and see what freight will cost.

Also forgot to mention that the front tailshaft actualy needs to be shortened but is not all that expensive around $100 bux at driveshaft place was done in a day.

Did you use the rangie tailshaft?

brianp1109 wrote:i just started this conversion all the info really comes in handy. i might have a set of front and rear gq diffs complete up for grabs if anyones interested

Have you given up on the conversion or did you just have a spare set?

Did you use the rangie tailshaft?

Yes i used both the front and rear tailshafts from the rangie.

no im just about to pull my diffs out and start the fun part. but yes i do have a spare set of diffs

urban red neck. how big a lift did you go as im thinking of using my existing 3inch lift springs and adding 50mm coil spacers. what would be the best way to correct driveline angles and castor. is there anyway i cngive you a call and discuss a few things that are troubling me.

Started mine yesterday. Cut off old perches and welded the rover ones on. 98cm centres for the shock mounts if anyone is interested. I actually widened the Nissan perch by 6mm each side to make the rover mounts fit at correct width! Need to crack off the pinion flange and gwet my mate to redrill to Rover PCD for the driveshaft. Looking at the diff nose I think the Rover shaft will need to be shortened by about 15-20mm. Does this sound about right?

I will post some pics as soon as I get them onto photobucket.

Cheers

mark

Please Do.

Are you using the GQ rear diff as well?

Cheers
Dave

Welsh_farmer wrote:Started mine yesterday. Cut off old perches and welded the rover ones on. 98cm centres for the shock mounts if anyone is interested. I actually widened the Nissan perch by 6mm each side to make the rover mounts fit at correct width! Need to crack off the pinion flange and gwet my mate to redrill to Rover PCD for the driveshaft. Looking at the diff nose I think the Rover shaft will need to be shortened by about 15-20mm. Does this sound about right?

I will post some pics as soon as I get them onto photobucket.

Cheers

mark

When you do the pinion make sure to make the hole in the centre for the locator smaller.
if you are using 80s rear the hole needs to be machined bigger which is a bit easier.
When getting the tailshaft shortened you just need to give them the distance from pinion flange to pinion flange.

brianp1109 wrote:urban red neck. how big a lift did you go as im thinking of using my existing 3inch lift springs and adding 50mm coil spacers. what would be the best way to correct driveline angles and castor. is there anyway i cngive you a call and discuss a few things that are troubling me.

I just used my original 2" spings front and rear but gained a bit more in height due to the larger diameter housings and if anything the front now sit a little higher than the rear (very little).
with the caster i have just used the offset bushes.

PM sent

Another thread running in the Uk

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=21706&st=0

Pics of my LR spring mount relocation can be found on page 3 (saves me photobucketing them!)

smithfields not very far at all maybe 15-20 mins if that helps you out.

If anyone is interested i think i may be selling my rangie minus the bits i am putting on my other project/ or wrecking out so if anyone wants conversion i am open to offers.
I am building a touring rig for the family and need cash.

I KNOW THIS SHOULD BE IN CLASSIFIEDS BUT THOUGHT PEOPLE READING THIS THREAD SHOULD HAVE HEADS UP FIRST

Cheers Damo

UrbanRedneck wrote:If anyone is interested i think i may be selling my rangie minus the bits i am putting on my other project/ or wrecking out so if anyone wants conversion i am open to offers.
I am building a touring rig for the family and need cash.

I KNOW THIS SHOULD BE IN CLASSIFIEDS BUT THOUGHT PEOPLE READING THIS THREAD SHOULD HAVE HEADS UP FIRST

Cheers Damo

Details?!?

What year? 2 - 4 door? What parts are ya keepin and how much?