Outer Limits 4x4 Board

tna racing wrote:wehave this set up




2x180mm roo lights(35w hid) and 110 night stalkers (100w). put them on when on night drives or camping. they have great range too

you see the problem with this set up is when you roll over the lights will push your roof in further than it should ... an i have seen it happen

yeah so have i. but is protective in ways. no differnt from a roofrack i.e a roof cage though

tna racing wrote:yeah so have i. but is protective in ways

I can only see that doing more damage, your gutters are gawn, and then everything else goes too...

no differnt from a roofrack i.e a roof cage though

fair call.

tna racing wrote:wehave this set up
2x180mm roo lights(35w hid) and 110 night stalkers (100w). put them on when on night drives or camping. they have great range too

nice workmanship.
Peter.

what u mean pete?

tna racing wrote:what u mean pete?

Exactly what I said, it looks very well made, I am not commenting on whether it works or not, just that someone has put a bit of thought and trouble into making it look professional, nice work.
Peter.

bogged wrote:

tna racing wrote:yeah so have i. but is protective in ways

I can only see that doing more damage, your gutters are gawn, and then everything else goes too...

no differnt from a roofrack i.e a roof cage though

fair call.

So what if the light bar makes things worse. The cars upside down. It aint going to buff out either way.

With the lights mounted under the light bar it might cause the roof to cave in more right over the driver's and front passenger's heads in a roll over because instead of shearing off like they would if they were mounted on top the light bar they will probably be forced into the roof by the light bar.

I have put 130w in my head light which has made a big diff I want to mount the extra spot lights in my roof rake. This will give me some better protection against theft damage. If you have enough $$$$$ then do it

droopypete wrote:

tna racing wrote:what u mean pete?

Exactly what I said, it looks very well made, I am not commenting on whether it works or not, just that someone has put a bit of thought and trouble into making it look professional, nice work.
Peter.

cheers mate

and spongerx why would it?. either way u roll ur cars stuff imho

tna racing wrote:
either way u roll ur cars stuff imho

Not necessarily. I rolled mine and the roofrack hitting the ground stuffed the roof, writing it off. Without the roofrack it would have been okay.

so ur thinking wen ur car smacks its roof in any roll over nothings going 2 bend

I have two LF170's on my GQ Bonnet trying to do the jeep thing.

Works well.

tna racing wrote:so ur thinking wen ur car smacks its roof in any roll over nothings going 2 bend

i've seen trucks roll that were easy to just pop the roof out, and keep driving it. the rack concentrates the weight of the truck onto the mounting legs of the light bar. causes more damage to the roof than if that load was to be spread right across the roof.

if you tied that light bar into an internal cage, then we wouldn't need to have this conversation

oh well.any thing on a roof can damage it !

-Scott- wrote:I'm not knocking the concept of roof lights, but do they need to be that bright? For the applications described it sounds like they're most useful for short range stuff, not seeing 500m down the track.

I've ran roof lights in the past, although haven't put them on anything in recent times. Two small 70mm Narva Compac Fog Lights (clear lens) with 55W globes (ricer lights). More then enough to light up directly in front of the vehicle when for whatever reason the headlights couldn't shine to far forward or to fill in shadows directly in front. So from my past experience, no they don't have to be that big or bright.

tna racing wrote:so ur thinking wen ur car smacks its roof in any roll over nothings going 2 bend

There's damage and then there's DAMAGE.

how cares if it is a comp truck