Outer Limits 4x4 Board

if it is any help, I put a long range tank intended for a Rangie straight into the Disco.....should go, and if not, hack it in!

OK I'll grab the tank, but can I use an external pump to run the EFI and what fuel pressure do I need?

Corgie Carrier wrote:OK I'll grab the tank, but can I use an external pump to run the EFI and what fuel pressure do I need?

cloughy wrote:Yes, but EFI pumps are high pressure 30-40psi, carb pumps are low pressure 4-6psi

You'll need an external EFI pump, best are just VL commodore bosch or equivelant, then depending on a tank, maybe a surge tank/swirl pot

UPDATE!!!

And the news is bad.

The RACV guy said the vacuum/compression seemed good, well yesterday I took it to the auto elec to check the ecu and injection. the pulse is fine, spark is great so he did a compression test.

Left bank varies from 105 to 120, but the right bank has one cylinder at 35, one at 60 and the other two at 80. OUCH!!

Hey Matt, do you really want that 4bd1? Wish I'd kept my mouth shut about that one.

ive got a 4.4 with manifold spacers that your injection will bolt straight to and ill even throw in a injected 3.5 that was using oil oil so you can set the 4.4 up before pulling other out pm me for price

Corgie Carrier wrote:UPDATE!!!

And the news is bad.

The RACV guy said the vacuum/compression seemed good, well yesterday I took it to the auto elec to check the ecu and injection. the pulse is fine, spark is great so he did a compression test.

Left bank varies from 105 to 120, but the right bank has one cylinder at 35, one at 60 and the other two at 80. OUCH!!

Hey Matt, do you really want that 4bd1? Wish I'd kept my mouth shut about that one.

I might be selling the one I just bought, you want details?

I'm buying an even betterer one

How about a 4.4 already on gas, with reco heads, new convertor and stuff

Corgie Carrier wrote:UPDATE!!!

And the news is bad.

The RACV guy said the vacuum/compression seemed good, well yesterday I took it to the auto elec to check the ecu and injection. the pulse is fine, spark is great so he did a compression test.

Left bank varies from 105 to 120, but the right bank has one cylinder at 35, one at 60 and the other two at 80. OUCH!!

Hey Matt, do you really want that 4bd1? Wish I'd kept my mouth shut about that one.

nasty mate nasty that aint good news at all

Corgie Carrier wrote:UPDATE!!!

And the news is bad.

The RACV guy said the vacuum/compression seemed good, well yesterday I took it to the auto elec to check the ecu and injection. the pulse is fine, spark is great so he did a compression test.

Left bank varies from 105 to 120, but the right bank has one cylinder at 35, one at 60 and the other two at 80. OUCH!!

Hey Matt, do you really want that 4bd1? Wish I'd kept my mouth shut about that one.

Check the head gasket, it seems strange the right bank is only affected.
even with those bad readings it should still start and run Badley, but it should still run, and seeing as it was running fine the day before I doubt this is the casue of it not starting now.

I am asuming as it s an 89 its still got the flapper airflow sensor, which can be quite troublesome. It has a printed circuit inside wher a needle sweeps across, providing the ECU with the relevent airflow reading. These printed circuits wear out, and so the ECU isnt getting the righ info, it wont start. It is possible to readjust these, by prying off the black cover, But unless yo have the equipment to reset it if it all turns to poo, I wouldnt recomend it.
Remove the multi plug to the airflow meter and use a fine wet and dry paper to clean all the conections, same as the muti plug to the ecu found under the drivers seat. check every single conection under the bonnet, to make sure they are all conected.
The Airflow meter, could be suspect as can the ECU itsself, If you can swap them with known good ones to find the problume try that.
The ignition amplifier will also be a part to check.
The fuel injectors are ECU controled and are either fully open or fully closed and are not timing related they open in banks of four, but the ECU will stop puping fuel after a 3 seconds to stop the engine flooding, so the fuel presure regulator may need checking as well. If the ECU isnt getting all the information it wont run

Good news!!

Low compression could be attributed to excess fuel washing the bores.

Turns out that rangies use resisted spark plugs and mine was fitted with non-resisted version.

New plugs fitted and she is alive!

It is still flooding so I think it needs a good tune up and as you said the air flow meter adjusted.

It is still hard to get started, occasionally flooding and I have to hold the accelerator to the floor to get it started.

Corgie Carrier wrote:Good news!!

Low compression could be attributed to excess fuel washing the bores.

Turns out that rangies use resisted spark plugs and mine was fitted with non-resisted version.

New plugs fitted and she is alive!

It is still flooding so I think it needs a good tune up and as you said the air flow meter adjusted.

It is still hard to get started, occasionally flooding and I have to hold the accelerator to the floor to get it started.

check the cold start is not the issue, it will proberly be the problum with it running rich and flooding. You can pull of the hoses, on the side of the plenham chamber and put the relevent size bolt in the hose and clamp it up, if there is a noticable diffrence, then id say the coldstattrts playing up, but great news you got it going. Spark plugs are an issue with Rangies And i forget the recomended ones for them.

Faulty temp sensor will fool the ecu into supplying more fuel, unplug the cold start injector and see if it runs better.

Corgie Carrier wrote:Good news!!

Turns out that rangies use resisted spark plugs and mine was fitted with non-resisted version.

New plugs fitted and she is alive!

Resisted spark plugs Never ever heard of that before. Any further explanation?

Simo63 wrote:

Corgie Carrier wrote:Good news!!

Turns out that rangies use resisted spark plugs and mine was fitted with non-resisted version.

New plugs fitted and she is alive!

Resisted spark plugs Never ever heard of that before. Any further explanation?

Maybe confusing it with suppression ?

From NGK website

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: When should I use a resistor spark plug?

A: NGK "R" or resistor spark plugs use a 5k ohm ceramic resistor in the spark plug to suppress ignition noise generated during sparking.

NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.

They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.

In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion.