Outer Limits 4x4 Board

turbo105 wrote:hey, just finished my turbo kit on my fz105 landcruiser, got the boost response and much better fuel economy i expected, but i am suprised at how much power ive got at a low boost setting. (11psi) it made 281kw at the wheels through 315's and an auto! and that is on injected gas. thats enough to beat most wrx's in a 3 tonne 4x4. i have pictures and video's but dont know how to post them yet.[/url]

Have you got a proof of this reading? Because to me, thats massive power out of a stock motor. I have a built motor in my patrol, and it has about 220+ at the wheels...... (37's)

Reddo wrote:

turbo105 wrote:hey, just finished my turbo kit on my fz105 landcruiser, got the boost response and much better fuel economy i expected, but i am suprised at how much power ive got at a low boost setting. (11psi) it made 281kw at the wheels through 315's and an auto! and that is on injected gas. thats enough to beat most wrx's in a 3 tonne 4x4. i have pictures and video's but dont know how to post them yet.[/url]

Have you got a proof of this reading? Because to me, thats massive power out of a stock motor. I have a built motor in my patrol, and it has about 220+ at the wheels...... (37's)

Have a look at the head on your TB42 and the head on a 1FZ

cloughy wrote:

Reddo wrote:

turbo105 wrote:hey, just finished my turbo kit on my fz105 landcruiser, got the boost response and much better fuel economy i expected, but i am suprised at how much power ive got at a low boost setting. (11psi) it made 281kw at the wheels through 315's and an auto! and that is on injected gas. thats enough to beat most wrx's in a 3 tonne 4x4. i have pictures and video's but dont know how to post them yet.[/url]

Have you got a proof of this reading? Because to me, thats massive power out of a stock motor. I have a built motor in my patrol, and it has about 220+ at the wheels...... (37's)

Have a look at the head on your TB42 and the head on a 1FZ

twinky...... Just a more advanced motor i supose

have a look on ebay turbo glide sell manafolds for these motors, about 800 bucks from memory. there is one on there atm, just search landcruiser turbo.

before the turbo conversion i made 140 kw at the wheels, but that was with standard tires not 35's, big difference on a chassis dyno.

im going back to get a dyno print out and final tune soon, i agree it is a massive output from a stock motor, especialy with 250,000k's, but the turbo on it is rated at 700hp (3582r) and the stock injectors (petrol) are supose to be good for nearly 500hp with a o44 pump, and the're out of flow at 270kw at the wheels, i needed the injected lpg to get to 281kw so the engine must be getting to nearly 500hp.

Safari kits wer 240kw/540nm on 6 psi...11 would be that increase over std again....its not the injeters that limit the 4.5, but the fuel management...early 80's needed an extra injecter because the oxygen sensor would then rear rich and trim the injecter duty cycle, as the flow meter was maxed out after 1 psi....later 80's use a mass meter so no extra injecter, it didnt max out at 6 psi but would at higher than that...the 105 series runs a map sensor, which you would need to change to a positive pressure one and then put another computer in there to interpret it like a unichip and x box...incidently, i saw one of these on ebay last week....go for it...the 4.5 with turbo has to be drove to appreciate how much the rear wheels want to overtake the front ones....i had to do a part time conversion to keep steering in the dry, let alone wet.
Andrew

hey, i used a greddy emanage ultimate piggiback computer in mine, i capped the output voltage of the factory map sensor to stop it cutting out at more than 4 psi, then tuned the emanage from there, it is pretty good to drive! it spins the tyres (35's) on dry tar (auto) constant 4x4.

Are you on straight gas turbo105? ATX's website mentions it can do dual fuel...

I have had my 80 series for years . i turbocharged it in 1995 . max out on standard was 225rwhp on 6 psi and that was tuned . ran at 11psi and ran 281rwhp then blew the diff and that is with the safari kit which they dont make no more . u have to remember u put these on than think its a race car u break sh!!!!t.

turbo105 wrote:hey, i used a greddy emanage ultimate piggiback computer in mine, i capped the output voltage of the factory map sensor to stop it cutting out at more than 4 psi, then tuned the emanage from there, it is pretty good to drive! it spins the tyres (35's) on dry tar (auto) constant 4x4.

MMMM hearin you there...mine was auto aswell...part timed....the real tight trouser part is overtaking semis doing 80km/hr kicking straight back to second, and doing 140 as you pull back infront....i miss my petrol dow50r

Reading this post I want to Turbo my 105 1FZ-FE. It is giving me a chubby.

MS-75 wrote:I'm happy to answer any questions on turboing 1FZ that I can guys.

I'm not particularly competent on the ins and outs of the factory EFI system as I've only ever run a full programmable ECU, but can answer prettymuch anything regarding standard engine component strengths, series 1 to 2 differences, aftermarket parts availability + cost, HP potential and turbo sizing.

Cheers
Sean

So how strong are the internals in the 1fz? I want to race whinch challange, and you've got to be able to keep up with the v8s to compete. The wreckers are telling me 2500 for a "good" secondhand 1fz with all the accesories, loom and computer. If I wanted to turbo it and make enough power to stay with the 8s, would I have to rebuild it? Use forged internals? What internals would I need, and who makes them? I want some sort of longevity I don't want to go to all the trouble only to build a hand grenade.

For those that have had a turbo What size turbo were u running

Nuts - just lost a huge post -

Quick rundown on engine strength

block - up to 2000hp
Crank - up to 2000hp
head - stock casting is fine for 600+++ hp, and 100 series is the better of the two
Pistons, 80 series are the strongest - up to 600+hp
Conrods - 600+hp
Valvesprings - replace with upgraded ones for anything over 12-15psi
Valves - stockers are just fine unless you want 700+hp
Cams - leave std unless humting for 700+hp
Head bolts - replace with ARP Supra 2JZGTE ones
Head gasket - Cometic now do MLS ones

Turbo - Garrett GT35/40 at minimum.

Anyone doing a comp truck should go aftermarket ECU (Autornic, Motec etc etc)

Basic setup - stock motor apart from valve springs, head gasket and head studs, GT35/40, frontmount intercooler, afternarket ECU, bigger injectors and fuel pump will deliver in excess of 300rwkw on 35 inch tyres on medium boost and do it all day long.

While I'm at it, here's a pic of the set-up I'm working on currently.

Custom intake manifold, custom exhaust manifold, head ported as far as it will go, pistons, rods, 2100hp turbo, methanol etc etc etc.



GM powerglide transmission to 1FZ bellhousing adaptor.

Willy Hilux wrote:Reading this post I want to Turbo my 105 1FZ-FE. It is giving me a chubby.

me too!
cheers mick

what about the sprintex kit?
is it any good?
supercharger
cheers mick

It won't make anywhere near the hp of a turbo setup, although it is easier to install.

I'm currently putting a turbo on my 1fz petrol 79 series
I mounted my cooler last week and put my turbo drain bung into my sump , I tapped an threaded into the alloy half o the sump. I hear I can use a STD computer which I will obviosluy try I'll be running gas also so I'm in the process o hunting a gasturbo throttle bodi.
I bought my mandifold from US posted to my door was $100 cheaper than and manifolds from east aus , I'm bought and will be using a garrtet ball bearing turbo from a xr6 there a good size match for the 4.5 ltr. My oil feed line I got made up and will t into the oil pressure sender etc. Any more ? Just ask

When you begin running it, make sure it is tuned on a dyno with a knock sensor.

As long as you keep the boost down to under 10psi you should be okay on the gas. Anything over that and you will need to retard the spark (usually by 1 degree per pound is a good rule of thumb.

If you want to run it on petrol over 6-7 psi you mauy need a piggyback type computer.

As for the oil line, make sure the oil pressure sender is in the 90 degree port on the t piece and the oil feed goes straight through.

Drill out the adaptor male/male fitting that allows the T piece to screw into the oil press port in the block so it has a nice big passage. (one of my turbos had slight oil starvation issue when we pulled it down, so I re-jigged my oil feed as above and it was sweet from then on)

Where in the US did you grab your manifold from?
Is it a single piece casting, or 2 piece casting?

EDIT
I see you say gas throttlebody.
If that means you are not going to run petrol at all, the std computer will be fine as you'll only need spark. Just add a Crane Hi-6 ignition box with a boost retard module (your ecu will trigger the crane to fire, but the boost retard unit has a pressure port, and the crane will fire with the amount of retard you set via a dial according to amount of boost it is seeing) and you'll be good to go.

MS-75 wrote:When you begin running it, make sure it is tuned on a dyno with a knock sensor.

As long as you keep the boost down to under 10psi you should be okay on the gas. Anything over that and you will need to retard the spark (usually by 1 degree per pound is a good rule of thumb.

If you want to run it on petrol over 6-7 psi you mauy need a piggyback type computer.

As for the oil line, make sure the oil pressure sender is in the 90 degree port on the t piece and the oil feed goes straight through.

Drill out the adaptor male/male fitting that allows the T piece to screw into the oil press port in the block so it has a nice big passage. (one of my turbos had slight oil starvation issue when we pulled it down, so I re-jigged my oil feed as above and it was sweet from then on)

Where in the US did you grab your manifold from?
Is it a single piece casting, or 2 piece casting?

EDIT
I see you say gas throttlebody.
If that means you are not going to run petrol at all, the std computer will be fine as you'll only need spark. Just add a Crane Hi-6 ignition box with a boost retard module (your ecu will trigger the crane to fire, but the boost retard unit has a pressure port, and the crane will fire with the amount of retard you set via a dial according to amount of boost it is seeing) and you'll be good to go.

cheers for the good tips n info mate keep it comming as a lot of its all new to me and my turbo project
The manifold is a 1 piece hi mount and come from treadstone performance it has a life time warrenty so hope it should be okay
When i was turbo hunting a lot of good things were said about the xr6 turbo and forums and people say there a T4 turbo, so i order my 1fz manifold with to suit T4 When i got it i new the maniold flange was much bigger than the turbo , so missleading information from people and forums and my turbo inexperience lead me to a little problem but i found a adapter plate to go T3 -T4 for $50 so its not to bad but would have been nicer with out it
.As for the turbo oil line it seems garret turbos shouldnt have any more than 60psi of oil pressure through it
heres a few pics enjoy


You can see the adapter lifts the turbo up a bit, so if anyone is doing a conversion make sure the turbo's flange is correct and not just go by word of mouth

Yeah - the XR6 turbo does use T4 size shaft, but the flange is a T3. A trap for young players.

If you want to glean some turbo tech information, http://www.performanceforums.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is a good source. Join up and ask away/search.

As for the oil pressure, just hook it up to your oil supply, and only begin choking it down with a restrictor if the turbo smokes.

MS-75 wrote:Yeah - the XR6 turbo does use T4 size shaft, but the flange is a T3. A trap for young players.

If you want to glean some turbo tech information, http://www.performanceforums.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; is a good source. Join up and ask away/search.

As for the oil pressure, just hook it up to your oil supply, and only begin choking it down with a restrictor if the turbo smokes.

Thanks for the link mate
the oil fittings

You can see the male-male thread closes the flow hole a bit

The factory xr6 turbo fitting welded to the conection bit and then joined to braided line hole is same dia as factory


I guess i should really make a build thread?

Put a build thread up on PF too mate - you'll get lots of help.

One thing - before you fire it up, change the standard torque-to-yield head bolts with ARP supra 2jz gte head studs. You can get them from VPW, Rocket etc etc. Vastly improves the integrity of the cyl head seal. Only $250 or so and absolutely critical.

MS-75 wrote:Put a build thread up on PF too mate - you'll get lots of help.

One thing - before you fire it up, change the standard torque-to-yield head bolts with ARP supra 2jz gte head studs. You can get them from VPW, Rocket etc etc. Vastly improves the integrity of the cyl head seal. Only $250 or so and absolutely critical.

okay I haven't heard or read that one , how "critical" is it for a low 8ish psi ,I take it you replace one stud ( take old out put new one in move on to next stud )at a time or just take them all out and start putting all new ones in . What the difference bettween touqing the STD head stud to the same tourq of the surpa stud if there both the same tourque setting mate ?
I did have to also change my exhaust manifold studs to longer ones only because the nut didn't have quite enough thread so I used supra ones . Not sure what supra the auto Shop told me about em, what supra motors are there

Std head bolts are a torque to yield fastener and have a maximum clamping force dictated by the material.

ARP studs are a much stronger material and can be torqued to a significantly higher torque (not a torque to yield fastener - the specified torque is approx 75% of the fastener yield strength) - giving a greater clamping force obviously.

If you're only going to run 6-7 psi though it then you'll probably be fine however. Just remember that XR6 blower is good for 400+hp. I guarantee you'll get the bug and start winding boost into it!

Yes you can swap the bolts/studs over like that. The cams need to come out to do it, but it's not too difficult.

MS-75 wrote:Std head bolts are a torque to yield fastener and have a maximum clamping force dictated by the material.

ARP studs are a much stronger material and can be torqued to a significantly higher torque (not a torque to yield fastener - the specified torque is approx 75% of the fastener yield strength) - giving a greater clamping force obviously.

If you're only going to run 6-7 psi though it then you'll probably be fine however. Just remember that XR6 blower is good for 400+hp. I guarantee you'll get the bug and start winding boost into it!

Yes you can swap the bolts/studs over like that. The cams need to come out to do it, but it's not too difficult.

okay cool that makes a bit more sense about the studs
yea I think that's why it's hard to find a xr6 turbo becuase most performance shop don't sell them because they generally don't need to upgrade the turbo.
I keep telling my self I'll just be happy with low boost but I know that bug isn't to far away

GO79 wrote:

MS-75 wrote:Std head bolts are a torque to yield fastener and have a maximum clamping force dictated by the material.

ARP studs are a much stronger material and can be torqued to a significantly higher torque (not a torque to yield fastener - the specified torque is approx 75% of the fastener yield strength) - giving a greater clamping force obviously.

If you're only going to run 6-7 psi though it then you'll probably be fine however. Just remember that XR6 blower is good for 400+hp. I guarantee you'll get the bug and start winding boost into it!

Yes you can swap the bolts/studs over like that. The cams need to come out to do it, but it's not too difficult.

how much roughly would it cost to pay someone to turbo my 4.5 it has 280000 klms on it
i dont want 20 psi or anything just a bit more pulling power
cheers mick

mick80 wrote:

GO79 wrote:

MS-75 wrote:Std head bolts are a torque to yield fastener and have a maximum clamping force dictated by the material.

ARP studs are a much stronger material and can be torqued to a significantly higher torque (not a torque to yield fastener - the specified torque is approx 75% of the fastener yield strength) - giving a greater clamping force obviously.

If you're only going to run 6-7 psi though it then you'll probably be fine however. Just remember that XR6 blower is good for 400+hp. I guarantee you'll get the bug and start winding boost into it!

Yes you can swap the bolts/studs over like that. The cams need to come out to do it, but it's not too difficult.

how much roughly would it cost to pay someone to turbo my 4.5 it has 280000 klms on it
i dont want 20 psi or anything just a bit more pulling power
cheers mick

From what I've been told about $7000 drive in drive out
Cheers Dan