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Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:20 pm
by joeblow
steves right. chat with rowan or eric at head office if your doubtfull.
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:30 pm
by want33s
Settle down fellas...
I'm not saying an accelerator pedal pad is required or is even available in Australia but Joe said "they don't exist" when CLEARLY they do as I can find it listed and CJ can find one in a wreckers.
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:32 pm
by CairnsZook
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 8:40 pm
by zook4fun
pull that off before we all have to get 1!! :-)
if you have 1 great but if you don't thats even better. maybe only some models came with them or the last owner got it of a swift or some thing to shut the rta guys up.
thought this was a no crap thread?
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 9:14 pm
by want33s
Ha Ha Ha Ha
Here's mine that I didn't even realise I had!.
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:08 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
Gwagensteve wrote:Most GPS units don't have speed as a default page. i.e when you turn the car on, you have to go "looking" for speed. Also, you'll get no reading in tunnels and under bridges etc.
haha we dont have any tunnels or bridges in Darwin so thats not a problem for us lol....
But I use my GPS as my odometer and Speedo sometimes its far more accurate than the one in the car... I used it on my Motor bike cos the digital speedo stops at 299km so I took it out for a run as the GPS records the top speed you do.....
want33s wrote:This thread isn't about my car though.. bring on the stupid questions!
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:08 pm
by spamwell
i was under the impression SJ410's did not have the pad but the newer ones did
my pedal was floor cammo lol
Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:21 pm
by lexplay
your accelerator pad, floor bungs and carpet are just like mine.
non existent. lol
so another question what floor material do some of you have? i wish i just had the original rubber matting but i have nothing plus a few empty bung holes.
any one got checker plate or something like that?
Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:51 pm
by muz_ook
my 1l 1982 ute has an accelerator pedal pad..............weird how the old cars have em
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:37 pm
by lexplay
i sent a e-mail to calmini the other day and they said they are not doing their flares any more.
this really sux in my eyes as i was keen to buy some.
as for the tj flares im not really keen on the shape unless i use rears all round.
sent a e-mail to mudbusters only to never get a reply.
bushwackers are too expensive.
i still dont know why its soo hard to get some some simple big flares for our cars.
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:26 pm
by GRPABT1
Go to a wreckers and find a VW beetle, rip the flares off it and cut them to suit
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 1:45 pm
by lexplay
ha ha they would be hell bubble arches.
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 3:59 pm
by raqmup
lexplay wrote:
as for the tj flares im not really keen on the shape unless i use rears all round.
i still dont know why its soo hard to get some some simple big flares for our cars.
Why use rears all round and what's the issue with the look? Bang for buck really, approx $250-400 for a whole set second hand. TJ drivers that upgrade to the super wide 6" flares usually want to flog 'em cheap.
The front and rears actually look neat when done right in my opinion- all be it a lil' bias...
Need to mod rear right with a heat gun to shape it for the fuel inlet and also shape the rear corner of the fronts to contour nicely by trimming the inner wall a bit. End result...
Mike
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:05 pm
by grimbo
the issue with the look is that they look goofy without the guards cut to match. They just look tacked on when you can see body panels underneath. What's the point may as well just use Bunnings garden edging to cover the tyres unless you do it properly and cut the body to actually gain some benfit of fitting the guards
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:34 pm
by raqmup
Interesting comparison Graeme, TJ flares and garden edging... One is significantly cheaper, but I think quite agricultural in appearance and will just rip out on moderate contact with a rock or embankment
Mine don't appear 'tacked on', I've actually sprayed the previously visible arch black so it hardly even shows that it's there and they've been shaped properly as well. My tyres don't touch the arches at full flex and the other benefit is that they cover my tyres that stick out of the body by approx 5 inches. Perhaps you've generalised with other examples you've seen that do look, well, tacked on- as you say. I'm not a fan of how they usually look either and wouldn't bother doing it if mine looked like that. Garden edging though bud, c'mon...
The benefit to not chopping the guard is, as far as I know, retaining what very little panel strength sierra's have to start with. I have leant the side weight of my rig on those flares with nothing to worry about and can happily scrub embankments all day without tearing flares off or dinting/scratching side panels in the process. They've been fixed on with nut-certs as opposed to tek-screws, so they won't just tear out of the panels.
Each to their own though, I think Allans (pirhana) flares look nice, as do some 'home jobs' I've seen. Allans are a lil' heavy on the $$ side though.
Mike
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 4:39 pm
by grimbo
I'm talking about yours, I realise you have tried to hide it with flat black paint but the guards are still plainly visible, hence the tacked on appearance. But as you say each to their own. Otherwise I like your Zuk
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:34 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
raqmup wrote:
I have leant the side weight of my rig on those flares with nothing to worry about and can happily scrub embankments all day without tearing flares off or dinting/scratching side panels in the process.
I know what you mean I end up resting on the guards often not that Im too worried about the panels but they just pop back into shape after they have been squashed.
That said my Sierra being a NT the front needed to match the front guards when it flexed the tire would be all over the fire wall.
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:37 pm
by joeblow
grimbo wrote:the issue with the look is that they look goofy without the guards cut to match. They just look tacked on when you can see body panels underneath. What's the point may as well just use Bunnings garden edging to cover the tyres unless you do it properly and cut the body to actually gain some benfit of fitting the guards
can't believe i'm sayin this for the first time.....shut up grimbo. your lwb was such a stunning thing to look at because?.......
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 6:38 pm
by GRPABT1
Ok Grimbo's LWB was fawken hot in it's final incarnation and I agree with him here (and I hate agreeing with Grimbo just cause it's fun not to :p ) the blue one above is shat on by the white one below it in the looks department all because of the gaurd chopping.
That said I don't like them, I prefer bushwackers if going down that route.
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:19 pm
by grimbo
joeblow wrote:grimbo wrote:the issue with the look is that they look goofy without the guards cut to match. They just look tacked on when you can see body panels underneath. What's the point may as well just use Bunnings garden edging to cover the tyres unless you do it properly and cut the body to actually gain some benfit of fitting the guards
can't believe i'm sayin this for the first time.....shut up grimbo. your lwb was such a stunning thing to look at because?.......
never said mine was good looking, that was never its intention, for gods sake I painted it orange. All I'm saying the flaresl ook goofy without the guards being cut. The white one works for me because the guards have been trimed as well. That's all.
Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 6:20 pm
by crackatinny
new question...
i have left my sway bar in the front. does this make me 'Silly'? i am debating to myself weather to make it quick disconnect or remove it completley.
i do drive it 70 kays one the road a day.
Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 6:35 pm
by GRPABT1
Yes you are silly, sell it for scrap metal
Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:57 am
by Gwagensteve
crackatinny wrote:new question...
i have left my sway bar in the front. does this make me 'Silly'? i am debating to myself weather to make it quick disconnect or remove it completley.
i do drive it 70 kays one the road a day.
Take it off, go for a drive, if you don't like it, put it back on or make disconnects.
Steve.
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 7:28 pm
by Pixie-LWBZOOK
Similar question to above, but regarding the steering dampener...
has anyone noticed any adverse effects with out a steering dampener fitted??
I have had mine off for about a month, and steering feels much lighter/more responsive, turning circle feels much tighter, the only issue is the front left now rubs on spring at full lock.
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 8:16 pm
by GRPABT1
Bump steer.
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 8:28 pm
by Gwagensteve
Bump steer is a function of suspension and steering geometry and has nothing to do with the steering damper.
What you're referring to is kickback through the steering wheel. This will be mostly affected by rim offset - less offset = less kickback.
Power steering boxes are very good at eliminating kickback. On power steering equipped cars, there's very little to pick with the damper on or off. With a manual steer car, yes, the steering will be lighter without the damper on.
Steve.
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:59 pm
by GRPABT1
I've always known bump steering as: you hit a bump and the wheel wants to rip out of your hands and steer where the tyres wanna go. I know my RTC steering dampner (Yes yes I know) helped combat this somewhat.
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 11:06 pm
by fool_injected
bump
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:53 am
by GRPABT1
Pixie-LWBZOOK just crashed....
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:20 am
by Pixie-LWBZOOK
GRPABT1 wrote:Pixie-LWBZOOK just crashed....
?? Hrm... NO...
I can understand what you are saying about bump steer...
but i have tried to induce it, but i am yet to find it...
GRPABT1, Aren't 5 inch shackle reversal kits supposed to induce bump steer in zooks to...