Outer Limits 4x4 Board

The main reason ARB don't do a front locker for the 7.25" diff is lack of market.
The 8" front diff covers the majority of the Pajero model range.

Don't weld the front. As Scott said, they are terrible to drive with locked fronts.

VHPirie wrote:The other week when we went up through the hills, there were a few spots it had trouble getting up. It was rocky, and coz of the IFS and leafs, it would spin the opposite wheels on the front and back and go nowhere. Figured if we weld the front diff, it will atleast give us some traction when we're in a position like that again.

So will freeing up the rear travel, and/or a decent LSD. Both of these will help in "crossed up" situations, and have negligible negative impacts.

When I took my rear swaybar out I was amazed how less often it cocked a leg - I keep four wheels on the ground much more often, and I'm guessing I have better traction at the rear in most three wheel situations. And I don't have to wrestle poor steering all the time.

-Scott- wrote:

VHPirie wrote:The other week when we went up through the hills, there were a few spots it had trouble getting up. It was rocky, and coz of the IFS and leafs, it would spin the opposite wheels on the front and back and go nowhere. Figured if we weld the front diff, it will atleast give us some traction when we're in a position like that again.

So will freeing up the rear travel, and/or a decent LSD. Both of these will help in "crossed up" situations, and have negligible negative impacts.

When I took my rear swaybar out I was amazed how less often it cocked a leg - I keep four wheels on the ground much more often, and I'm guessing I have better traction at the rear in most three wheel situations. And I don't have to wrestle poor steering all the time.

I suppose I could remove the front swaybar and see how it goes, but the rear doesn't have one, don't think they come out with one. Apparently they come out with LSD's in the rear tho, but it seems to be an open centre, the wheels rotate opposite ways when sitting up on the jack....even has a sticker in the door jam about using special oil to suit the lsd.

VHPirie wrote:Apparently they come out with LSD's in the rear tho, but it seems to be an open centre, the wheels rotate opposite ways when sitting up on the jack....even has a sticker in the door jam about using special oil to suit the lsd.

If you had the gearbox in gear then the output shaft was unable to turn, so the wheels had no choice but to turn in opposite directions.

Personally, I don't think removing the front swaybar makes a huge difference off-road - certainly not as much as the rear.

Leaf springs can be "freed up" with a little work, and some greaseable shackles. Inter-leaf friction can limit the flex of the springs, so I would start there. Do a little research on getting flex out of leaf springs - I'm not sure what other options you have.

mj triton 4x4 definately will have a LSD.
Problem i have with mine is the same as you - easy to lift opposing wheels and lose all drive. only way i have found that helps is to pull the handbrake on. This helps stop the wheel in the air spinning and direct drive to the wheel with traction. It usually helps me when i am going uphill and have to drive over the humps graded into tracks to direct water away. (or i get up more speed )
The long 3000mm wheel base does not help either. If you are not going to carry heavy loads you could soften the rear springs by getting a leaf taken out.

REgards

Epitrochoid

epitrochoid wrote:mj triton 4x4 definately will have a LSD.
Problem i have with mine is the same as you - easy to lift opposing wheels and lose all drive. only way i have found that helps is to pull the handbrake on. This helps stop the wheel in the air spinning and direct drive to the wheel with traction. It usually helps me when i am going uphill and have to drive over the humps graded into tracks to direct water away. (or i get up more speed )
The long 3000mm wheel base does not help either. If you are not going to carry heavy loads you could soften the rear springs by getting a leaf taken out.

REgards

Epitrochoid

Which brings me to my next problem.....my handbrake doesn't work lol.

Jumped under and had a look the other day, and pulled the lever on with my hand (the lever which gets pulled from the first cable, and it pulls the 2 rear cables) and yeah I could still roll it with one hand (other hand was on the lever ). I rekon it's either stretched rear cables, or sumfin wrong in the brakes.....still sumfin I gotta investigate further.

Me little bro works at our local Holden/Mitsi/Nissan dealership as the parts guy, and he looked up the cables, the front one is $173.25, LH rear is 117.81, and the RH rear is 174.24......and that's 'HIS' price lol. So definitely not gonna get new cables lol.

VHPirie wrote:Which brings me to my next problem.....my handbrake doesn't work lol.

Jumped under and had a look the other day, and pulled the lever on with my hand (the lever which gets pulled from the first cable, and it pulls the 2 rear cables) and yeah I could still roll it with one hand (other hand was on the lever ). I rekon it's either stretched rear cables, or sumfin wrong in the brakes.....still sumfin I gotta investigate further.

Me little bro works at our local Holden/Mitsi/Nissan dealership as the parts guy, and he looked up the cables, the front one is $173.25, LH rear is 117.81, and the RH rear is 174.24......and that's 'HIS' price lol. So definitely not gonna get new cables lol.

Disassemble & inspect the brakes (I presume it's rear drums?) before you replace the cables. There's could be an adjustment inside the drum which needs some attention, or some other failure - when was the last time your rear brakes were serviced?

-Scott- wrote:

VHPirie wrote:Which brings me to my next problem.....my handbrake doesn't work lol.

Jumped under and had a look the other day, and pulled the lever on with my hand (the lever which gets pulled from the first cable, and it pulls the 2 rear cables) and yeah I could still roll it with one hand (other hand was on the lever ). I rekon it's either stretched rear cables, or sumfin wrong in the brakes.....still sumfin I gotta investigate further.

Me little bro works at our local Holden/Mitsi/Nissan dealership as the parts guy, and he looked up the cables, the front one is $173.25, LH rear is 117.81, and the RH rear is 174.24......and that's 'HIS' price lol. So definitely not gonna get new cables lol.

Disassemble & inspect the brakes (I presume it's rear drums?) before you replace the cables. There's could be an adjustment inside the drum which needs some attention, or some other failure - when was the last time your rear brakes were serviced?

Thx mate, it's on the list of things to do. Not sure when they were last checked, I only bought it about 2 weeks ago.

pull off the rear wheels, and with the hand brake off, remove the drums and look at the shoes as there may not be much lining left on them.
Being a farmers vehicle it may well be fairly dirty in there and need a good cleaning up and lubricating.
Do this first before suspecting stretched cables.

REgards

Epitrochoid