Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Yep - pretty much correct with the setup... as far as grinding went there wasn't very much... just some hammering under the guards, and a little bit off the rear bumper, remove the front chassis toob (where the old bumper mounts) and cut a hole in the inner guard behind the headlights (about 200mm x 250mm) to make room for the tyres when at full compression.

home made shackles = $20 bucks in materials
home made shock towers = $30ish bucks i guess
tyres were 350 each - you can get them cheaper than that now though
rh3 - don't forget installation cost (200) plus (maybe) new bearings (200ish)
ext brake lines = $40 to $60
shock = 190 each - rancho 99112's (9112x's) they were.
springs = 4 x 175 (if you know people) = 700

hope that helps mate

bigsteve wrote:You will also need rims and seeing though you are WT they will need to be ofset or the tyres will majorly hit the springs, my rims are 2.5 inch back spaced and I still touch the springs just before full lock.

I originally ran those tyres on 15x6's with normal offset. just had to change the steering stops to reduce steering lock - this avoided touching the springs

(easy mod - just involves 2 bolts)

I originally ran those tyres on 15x6's with normal offset. just had to change the steering stops to reduce steering lock - this avoided touching the springs

(easy mod - just involves 2 bolts)

That sounds good, at the moment I have 15x7 will it be the same?
Also do you have a diagram of the shock extention, I can see in the pics that it is straight and I assume that the shock pin runs parallel to the chassis.

It looks like I'm more temped to run 34" then 31's, I've already bought one set of wheels before which will be useless to me. I figure if i'm gonna do a build I might as well do it right the first time

DeWsE wrote:

I originally ran those tyres on 15x6's with normal offset. just had to change the steering stops to reduce steering lock - this avoided touching the springs

(easy mod - just involves 2 bolts)

That sounds good, at the moment I have 15x7 will it be the same?
Also do you have a diagram of the shock extention, I can see in the pics that it is straight and I assume that the shock pin runs parallel to the chassis.

It looks like I'm more temped to run 34" then 31's, I've already bought one set of wheels before which will be useless to me. I figure if i'm gonna do a build I might as well do it right the first time

Search Newbie - i've drawn mine before for Damo (who then whinged when it wasn't worthy of being chromed)...

Yes - the shock pin runs parallel to the chassis / ground (the difference will be neglegable (sp) and will be allowed for due to the rubber bushes on the shock)..

Tell me what the offset on the 15x7's is - i reckon it will be pretty close (i think the offset for 6's and 7's is the same)...

Tell me what the offset on the 15x7's is - i reckon it will be pretty close (i think the offset for 6's and 7's is the same)...

Now your asking me to think, and i'm not sure I can do that!
What is the difference between standard rims and the F100 rims?

Search Newbie - i've drawn mine before for Damo (who then whinged when it wasn't worthy of being chromed)...

Bet he chromed them anyway! And I can't be bothered seaching and you have the scketch already so what do you say

This fairy bread had better be the best ever fairy bread

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=mount%2A




get a flat piece of wood or something - put it across the rim so it touches the beads of the rim (not the tyre), then mesaure the distance from that piece of wood to where the nuts are holding the wheel onto the car. take that measurement and subtract it from 7" and tadah - there is your offset

Hey Dewse,

Nicbeer and myself are body lifting our zuks not this weekend but the next. Shouldn't cost anymore that $40.00 for nuts & bolts, box setion and some crush tube (if all goes well!!!!!!!!!)

Nice cheap and easy start to your project. Your welcome to come and join us if you want and we can all meet up and get stuck into it.

We can then all share some brain grenades (beer) and exchange ideas!!!!!!

Pm me if you are interested.

Well okay greg I'll do something like that tonight and let you know.

Hehe fairy bread.........yeah

Okay wolverine I'll pm ya later, how many cars do you think you can do in on weekend? J/J

Greg that tube off the chassis looks the go, but what size tube and how far do you angle it off the chassis. From the pics I've seen of yours it doesn't seem like much, but the diagram shows about 5-10 degrees

DeWsE wrote:Greg that tube off the chassis looks the go, but what size tube and how far do you angle it off the chassis. From the pics I've seen of yours it doesn't seem like much, but the diagram shows about 5-10 degrees

The toob is the same stuff that the roll bar is made out of - i think it's 42mm something-a-rother... Same as big steve's shock towers too..

The angle is all about setting it up for your shocks to allow for the shock to do the full travel (swing) of motion with the axel and still not come into contact with the chassis. You can angle it however you want really - so long as it misses the chassis, and the tyre misses it.

Note: the more angle you run the shocks at - the less shocking they do (i.e. they are softer).

greg wrote:

DeWsE wrote:Greg that tube off the chassis looks the go, but what size tube and how far do you angle it off the chassis. From the pics I've seen of yours it doesn't seem like much, but the diagram shows about 5-10 degrees

The toob is the same stuff that the roll bar is made out of - i think it's 42mm something-a-rother... Same as big steve's shock towers too..

The angle is all about setting it up for your shocks to allow for the shock to do the full travel (swing) of motion with the axel and still not come into contact with the chassis. You can angle it however you want really - so long as it misses the chassis, and the tyre misses it.

Note: the more angle you run the shocks at - the less shocking they do (i.e. they are softer).

Also if you mount it at a "slant" toward the firewall you get a bit of extra travel outa it .. (though it may not damp as effectively)

Okay wolverine I'll pm ya later, how many cars do you think you can do in on weekend? J/J
[/quote]

Depends on how much piss you bring

Wolverine wrote:Okay wolverine I'll pm ya later, how many cars do you think you can do in on weekend? J/J

Depends on how much piss you bring [/quote]

Well what do you drink as long as its not EB!

I'm up in hillarys area dewse.

Don't want sell the 15x7's do ya ??

Don't mind what beer brought as I am not a big beer drinker, mostly spirits myself.

Hopefully should at least be able to do 1 car.

I am also redeciding on bodylift?? Don't know yet. Will think will need rag joints and brake lines when doing it but will find out.

cheers

nicbeer wrote:Will think will need rag joints and brake lines when doing it but will find out.

Only going 2" i assume? if yes - then brake lines are fine...

Rag joints?

Don't want sell the 15x7's do ya ??

Not to sure yet will see how I go, what size tire are you planning on running. As for the BL are you planning on doing it the same as OTIS coz if you are i'll bother to read the artical again and find out what was needed.
Do you guys know of any tire supplier in the perth that sells swampers or will I need to get them sent over from the eastern states?

DeWsE wrote: As for the BL are you planning on doing it the same as OTIS coz if you are i'll bother to read the artical again and find out what was needed.

Assuming you don't have an apple, please have a search in here for the bodylift how-to's - because i think you'll find that the Otis bodylift was (debatably) the dodgiest piece of bodylift writing i have ever read

Check out the "Buying a Suzuki" sticky - there's a few good links in there with everything you need to know.

Cheers

Thats okay greg I think I might just get someone to do it for me, From memory the guys at suziwest in perth do it for 200 bucks and thats supposed to be a good kit that they use.

Its the server not the apples, or maybe it is the same for the nec's. Isn't it funny how the seach nazi can't even use the seach tool!

DeWsE wrote:Thats okay greg I think I might just get someone to do it for me, From memory the guys at suziwest in perth do it for 200 bucks and thats supposed to be a good kit that they use.

Its the server not the apples, or maybe it is the same for the nec's. Isn't it funny how the seach nazi can't even use the seach tool!

i don't need to use it to enforce it

Dudes the body lift should only take about 2 hrs each and thats with some mucking around aswell. If theres a few of us we could get it done pretty quick, especially with all the blocks cut and pre-drilled ready to go.

Just unbolt/unattach everything, lift, putblocks in, lower and bolt and then maybe a few fiddly things.

Brake lines won't be an issue and there are a couple of ways to get around the sterring extension. One of my mates used a rag joint (rubber pad) on a three inch lift the other day of an escort but we can sort that out easy.

That sounds good wolverine it just so happens that I've got a spare "rag joint" from an escort at home. from what I can tell their very easy to make.

Greg the offset of the 7" rim is 2 1/4".

Outer rim to inner plate= 120mm
7" rim = 177.8mm
177.8 - 120 = 57.8
57.8 / 25.4 = 2.27 blah blah
2 1/4

Does that sound about right?

DeWsE wrote:Outer rim to inner plate= 120mm

Assuming this measurement is correct - i guess so - but they are already dished out like a mo-fo... I don't reckon you'll be needing to get the offset changed (i.e. i think big steve and myself had our rims recentred to get 2.25" of backspacing)...

Now i'm confused, the rims were for a CJ-5 but they don't seem to be to dished out and from the look of bigsteves they seem very deep.

I'll have to measure again then.

The appearance of being dished out will also be affected by how much angle is on the centre of the wheel - i.e. is it near verticle, or very sloped towards the centre.

springs = 4 x 175 (if you know people) = 700

Sorry greg I think you may have already answered this but are these medium or heavy rate springs?

DeWsE wrote:

springs = 4 x 175 (if you know people) = 700

Sorry greg I think you may have already answered this but are these medium or heavy rate springs?

i'm running the mediums - they retail for 195* each i think... big steve is running the heavy duties - i think they are 225 each...

* - but i got them (second time around) for 175...

Factor in new bushes (OME's didn't come with any)

Who's using what?
Placky or rubber

Rubber bushes.. though mine need replacing

DeWsE wrote:

Factor in new bushes (OME's didn't come with any)

Who's using what?
Placky or rubber

Rubber here too mate

Well getting back to the build now that this thread has made it to page five.

I've looked at what I can afford and at present i've got about $5k.
Now after thinking for a while I have decided that spoa is not suitable (unsafe and unstable ) and my existing springs are crap anyway.
Also it has to be a DD with the ability to almost reach 100kmh.
Max size tire 32" to keep brakage down kinda.
Thinking of a 3/4 setup on the rear using ome and the existing spring cut for the half.
Up front i'm not to keen for the chassis extention mainly because its obvious and I will be living in hope. So I will see how the rro kit goes in wolferines rig first. Any other idea's front or just the normal ome front springs?

DeWsE wrote:Well getting back to the build now that this thread has made it to page five.

I've looked at what I can afford and at present i've got about $5k.
Now after thinking for a while I have decided that spoa is not suitable (unsafe and unstable ) and my existing springs are crap anyway.
Also it has to be a DD with the ability to almost reach 100kmh.
Max size tire 32" to keep brakage down kinda.
Thinking of a 3/4 setup on the rear using ome and the existing spring cut for the half.
Up front i'm not to keen for the chassis extention mainly because its obvious and I will be living in hope. So I will see how the rro kit goes in wolferines rig first. Any other idea's front or just the normal ome front springs?

If done properly, there is no need for a chassis extension to be obvious at all .. matter of fact if it is done well you would not know it was not factory unless you knew zuks really well , nor is a SPOA vehicle unstable.
There really is no need for a 3/4 rear either you can get alot of flex from a normal semi eleptic leaves, with fewer hassles as far as roadworthys etc go ..