Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Posted: **Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:31 pm**

fester2au wrote:Expanding foam in your sills is a good idea because the sills will rust out saving you the hassle of cutting them out.

don't put expanding foam in your sill it will just be a magnet to attract and trap water.

youll probably find that was a joke after the pop riveted winch install

Posted: **Wed Aug 13, 2008 9:00 pm**

NutterGQ wrote:
fester2au wrote:Expanding foam in your sills is a good idea because the sills will rust out saving you the hassle of cutting them out.

don't put expanding foam in your sill it will just be a magnet to attract and trap water.
youll probably find that was a joke after the pop riveted winch install

Missed the winch joke so I hope this definaely was.

Posted: **Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:06 am**

GRPABT1 wrote:
atari4x4 wrote:
cj wrote:I've had sliders attached to the body that were shaped to the sill profile. They kept all my clearance bar for a few mm, couldn't get hooked up on anything and coped with dropping onto rocks and sliding along rocks but they need to be steel imho. Very
Hey CJ,
I like the sound of your sliders, were these on a Vit?
A vitara ways a hell of alot less than a 105 series cruiser and hence would not need as hardcore sliders.

Yes, the Cruiser weighs more but the principle is the same, just adjust the materials and design to suit. Even Jeep think this is ok, have a look at their sliders on an Unlimited.

Posted: **Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:51 am**

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:
98lux wrote:The sliders on my 105 series

Are there any angle braces on those bars coming out from the chassis?
I have considered this design, and I like the flat skid plate, but others I have seen have bent up when the car dropped heavily onto them (ARB SII Disco). Couldn't open the passenger door.

It's a long arm = lots of leverage and easier bending.

If I did this I would be putting 4 nylon or poly blocks between the step and the body, so if it started to come up - the sill would assist in supporting the load.

The bolts dont hang up too much? (then again - the rear lower control arm mounts hangs right down and hangs me up often too - used my bodgy winch twice for that and once for hung up on the diff centre.).

Paul

Yes there is a guset on each chassis mount that goes all the way up to the top of the mount and out to near the sill (triangle shape)

Posted: **Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:08 am**

Here's a pic of my low profile rock sliders:

they're attached to the chassis by bolts so there's no welding/riveting etc. I've jacked off them during recoveries with no problems as they're steel. I can take a pic of them off if you like because i've removed them atm to repaint them. That's the best thing about them, a couple of bolts and off they come if i want.

Posted: **Thu Aug 14, 2008 12:37 pm**

Id like to see a pic of them off.

what size and wall thickness of steel would you use for sliders/steps? mine in a single cab hilux.

Posted: **Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:40 am**

I tried to build my sliders lightweight, but I think I made them a bit too lightweight and they have started to break the welds near the chassis (where the bending stresses are the highest)... Besides design shortcomings, this was my first welding project since school!

Here are some pics (before anything broke)

So I've pulled them off, and I'm watching this topic for new ideas. I like the idea of directly armouring the sills, if that would work! I want the protection for the accidental drop, not for intentional sliding.

Posted: **Fri Aug 15, 2008 10:58 am**

I reckon if you refine that design of yours carrot, you'll be onto a real winner. I'm going to have a similar design (ie sandwich) but using thick walled round pipe.

Four mounting points each side for my LWB GQ i think.

Coxy

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ideas for sliders please