Outer Limits 4x4 Board

its not hard to do it your self, it takes a few hours.
$1000 is a fair price to pay considering the work load, just to access the diff

how come an air locker is cheaper to install?

Zook_Fan wrote:how come an air locker is cheaper to install?

I would think fitting an air locker would be dearer.
The labour is the same to fit the actual locker into the centre but there is also an air line hole that needs to be drilled and tapped and the switch/wiring and compressor.
Jas.

Hey.

Ok I'm now in the middle of installing this lock right
according to step 32 of http://www.kenbeach.com/sammy_lock_right_install.htm
I'm suppost to have 0.012 inch's play in the side gear... now i dont think i have that and i cant measure it due to not having a dial meter....

Anyway i continued on... only to realise why i needed that play...
got to Step 38... Springs and all feel good the side gear can move abit thats fine. but when i put the top on in step 40... the top of the case compresses the side gear into the lockright and causes it to be be permanently bound... Now on each side gear there are thrust washers i believe.
can these be ommitted on the reassembily to get my 0.012 inch (0.3mm) play so i can actually unlock?

Thanks

Adam

by the sounds of it your doing everything correctly.
both of mine have gone together locked.. i needed alot of force to get it to unlock, from mem it was more than i could do with my hands.
i think it all good as long as you can lever the lock rite towards the pin and it frees up the side gear to turn (hope that makes sense)

Ok... I just got back home, i've being thinking about it and i realised while i was out that the side gear isnt ment to move anyway.... hence the spacers between the lockrights and pinion carrier... the lockright plates are suppost to move, but not the side gears..

SO i think your right about doing it right just needs alot of force to unlock.
i'll get back to it and make sure my lockrigh has a little more spring travel before i continue but i was looking at the wrong part to move
THanks

Adam

it took me a bit to get my head around how it works.. very simple really..
not alot that can go wrong, works every time (with or without a good earth )

as long as you took care of step 2 your in for an easy install

Is the spacer pictured here (in the guys hand) included in the lock right kit or is it in the diff already?

My Kit did not come with any spacers

yes that spacer is in the kit and is important, its what is used to hold the side gear away from the lockrite gear

My Richmond Lockrite's had the following in each kit:

- 1 x left driver gear
- 1 x right driver gear
- 1 x long pinion shaft
- 2 x short pinion shafts
- 4 x stop pins
- 2 x spacers / washers
- 4 x large springs
- 4 x small orange springs

Moph wrote:My Richmond Lockrite's had the following in each kit:

- 1 x left driver gear
- 1 x right driver gear
- 1 x long pinion shaft
- 2 x short pinion shafts
- 4 x stop pins
- 2 x spacers / washers
- 4 x large springs
- 4 x small orange springs

Yeah my kit has all of the above apart from the spacers/washers...

That sux because i was going to install it this weekend

My kit came with all that as well which was everything needed.

But didnt use the long pinion shaft. When we installed it i retained the standard pinion shaft as it was grooved and we thought it would be a good idea to have to let oil pass through the whole lot easier.

But rear lockrite got painful so now its going in the front in the next week or so

mick85 wrote:But rear lockrite got painful so now its going in the front in the next week or so

Why so? Interested because I've got one front, one rear sitting here waiting to go in. Muchas gratias want33's for the NT front diff

Well i e-mailed the guys i bought the lock rite from and they assured me my kit was complete..

It is for a 1lt diff center is there any difference in the kit between the 1lt and 1.3lt?

I just don't want to fit it and then find out its not right!

Moph wrote:

mick85 wrote:But rear lockrite got painful so now its going in the front in the next week or so

Why so? Interested because I've got one front, one rear sitting here waiting to go in.

It was adjusted, readjusted, and set up more than a few times and around town its just painful, it clicks (want33s heard it the first time i rolled into matilda) it bangs when parking and locked up when i didnt want it to

no matter how much i tried to adjust my style of driving in the end i couldnt stand it. there is no doubt offroad it makes the car unstoppable and if it wasnt registered id of left it in but i need the car to runabout so its out now.

Hows the front??

mick85.
when you got your lockrite was it with or without coulpings????

11_evl wrote:mick85.
when you got your lockrite was it with or without coulpings????

Without couplers mate, howcome?

Crazynic, you're talking about a Lockright 1520 right? I've done 4 of them and they definitely should include the spacers! It's also important to take your time with step 3 where they refer to the block which the cross shafts fit into. Each time it needed to be filed. You can test it on the bench with a vice and 2 axles, clamp 1 axle in the vice,put assembled hemisphere on the axle,fit a 2nd axle to it. Load up the axle in the vice by rotating the hemisphere by hand and with a brake drum on the other axle you should be able to rotate it by hand in the same direction that you load the hemisphere (you're simulating 1 wheel going faster in a corner while the inside 1 drives). At least if you test it it'll save you taking it back out if it doesn't work or worse it smashes because it's too tight!

Yeah it is part no. 1520-LR

I e-mailed the guys i bought it from and they assured me the kit was complete but its hard to explain stuff in an e-mail so I will ring them and see what they can sort out.

I was really looking forward to fitting it on the weekend

I will take my time to set it up when i finally do the install, Cheers for the advise!

How important are these washers? Sounds like i will have to send this kit back

I wish the kit came with a parts list/count (with part no's for each part)to make it easy to check you kit on arrival!

mick85 wrote:

11_evl wrote:mick85.
when you got your lockrite was it with or without coulpings????

Without couplers mate, howcome?

ive had both type kits now in the front of my car and found the 'without' to be SLIGHTLY better clicking wise than the other, both were quiet but the 'with' seem to bite in a bit more, lockin, in the bed in peroid (about 2 circles of a roundabout)

The spacers are VITAL and so are good side gears. The 1520 is the only locker I could track down to fit 1 litre diffs. I am running 2 in my 2 stroke LJ50. You can phone Richmond direct (8 o'clock in the morning) on 001118648439275, maybe they'll send you 2 spacers.

i rekon i might aswell just weld the rear,seeing as im gonna have it locked evretime i apply power.i tthink im just gonna weld it,spend the $500 on the front or sumwere else.

CBF reading all posts, but i fitted mine with no problems, just follow instructions. It drives on the road with no problems at all too, i run 31" simex

zookkid wrote:i rekon i might aswell just weld the rear,seeing as im gonna have it locked evretime i apply power.i tthink im just gonna weld it,spend the $500 on the front or sumwere else.

Ever seen a full spool or welded rear car pulling into a car park? The whole car can shake and the dash vibrates so much you think it's going to fall off. Auto lockers can at least corner slowly off the power.

I put my first Lockright in the front with welded rear and thought I was pretty clever and although it drove ok on the open road it was a real head turner in servo's and carparks and only a matter of time before it drew the wrong type of attention! All this I could tolerate but I broke a lot of gearbox and transfer mounts and even twisted 2 Stockman axles (same spline as Sierra) with a 2 stroke motor.No such problems so far with Lockright in the rear and it binds a lot less in really tough rocky situations so it stalls less.

want33s wrote:

paid_hitman wrote:For the people who have installed them themselves,
how hard is it to fit, you say it isnt hard, how much involved?EASY if you have basic hand tools
And what style? I.e. Lockright Rear with/without couplers?


Whats required after taking the centre out? Removing the ring gear (and spider gears if without couplers) ?YEP, thats it. what about back lashes and all other details involved in fitting?Backlash will need to be reset. or is most of that irrelevant with the lockright?

It's easy enough because you don't do a full relash. You don't have to adjust the pinion shims or preload. When I do a diff I wind the ring gear side adjuster up until there is Zero lash and then wind the other side in until the lash is the same as it was before disassembly.
Jas.

So do you put the 2 adjusters into the same position (eg same amount of turns) as it was before dis-assembly first. Then make it zero lash using the ring side adjuster, then re-adjust lash with other adjuster? What does this do for pre-load? Sorry can't fully understand it

Also, why is this method better than the method described on: http://www.kenbeach.com/sammy_lock_right_install.htm

Mike