Outer Limits 4x4 Board

-Scott- wrote:
I believe this is why owners of heavy vehicles ('Cruisers and Patrols) are happy with them, while owners of light vehicles (like Suzukis) don't like them - heavier vehicles are more likely to have enough traction to force them to unlock.

I agree, however you will find alot of sierra owners have them because owning a sierra means you don't care much about onroad manners and they are suited to the budget of most sierra builds.

GUte wrote:Maybe you should have done this before looking like a fool insulting people who do know better.

Al.

Obviously not.

Apparently us hacks dont know the first thing about repairing our cars.

All i can say to that is

4x4 guy wrote:so to all the internet mechanical experts out there that think building diffs is easy,answer this.
how did you setup and check that you had correct preload on the carrier bearings?
did you bother to measure the backlash with a dial indicator and how did you adjust it?
did you torque up the bearing cap bolts and ring gear bolts with an accurate torque wrench?
if so what are the specs?
did you use the correct locktite on the ring gear bolts?i hope so!!!
and i suppose you all used your years of experience examining the old bearings and gears,looking for damage or wear?
yes,any d!ckhead with a toolkit can physically dismantle and rebuild anything,but there is a lot more to building diffs than just undoing a few bolts and slipping a locker in.
if you can't answer all of these questions then you should not get on this forum and tell others that its so easy to fit them yourself,because you are clueless.

You're a nutter.
Setting up a new centre is challenging - yep - all teh above I pay for.

Lokka doesn't need any of the above set - go read the manual. It's a dream to install, any idiot could do it.

Paul

4x4 guy wrote:so to all the internet mechanical experts out there that think building diffs is easy,answer this.
how did you setup and check that you had correct preload on the carrier bearings?
did you bother to measure the backlash with a dial indicator and how did you adjust it?
did you torque up the bearing cap bolts and ring gear bolts with an accurate torque wrench?
if so what are the specs?
did you use the correct locktite on the ring gear bolts?i hope so!!!
and i suppose you all used your years of experience examining the old bearings and gears,looking for damage or wear?
yes,any d!ckhead with a toolkit can physically dismantle and rebuild anything,but there is a lot more to building diffs than just undoing a few bolts and slipping a locker in.
if you can't answer all of these questions then you should not get on this forum and tell others that its so easy to fit them yourself,because you are clueless.

So how do YOU check the preload on the carrier bearings?

Any dickhead with a puta can post on the internet

2 mates ran them for a long time, we set one up in a lux, when he switched to a 9" rear, he bought another LOKKA to suit, the other was an MQ shorty with chev and 36" simex, they are great for the price and I'd run one in the rear any day, I wouldn;t put on in the front, as others have noticed, cross slopes when locked are a pain

GRPABT1 wrote:

-Scott- wrote:
I believe this is why owners of heavy vehicles ('Cruisers and Patrols) are happy with them, while owners of light vehicles (like Suzukis) don't like them - heavier vehicles are more likely to have enough traction to force them to unlock.

I agree, however you will find alot of sierra owners have them because owning a sierra means you don't care much about onroad manners and they are suited to the budget of most sierra builds.

bullshit, care lots about onroad manners...is the owners that are the problem.

joeblow wrote:

GRPABT1 wrote:

-Scott- wrote:
I believe this is why owners of heavy vehicles ('Cruisers and Patrols) are happy with them, while owners of light vehicles (like Suzukis) don't like them - heavier vehicles are more likely to have enough traction to force them to unlock.

I agree, however you will find alot of sierra owners have them because owning a sierra means you don't care much about onroad manners and they are suited to the budget of most sierra builds.

bullshit, care lots about onroad manners...is the owners that are the problem.

There is no problem. And it should be known that you Joe are not the typical zook owner, you're completely backward.

cloughy wrote:

4x4 guy wrote:so to all the internet mechanical experts out there that think building diffs is easy,answer this.
how did you setup and check that you had correct preload on the carrier bearings?
did you bother to measure the backlash with a dial indicator and how did you adjust it?
did you torque up the bearing cap bolts and ring gear bolts with an accurate torque wrench?
if so what are the specs?
did you use the correct locktite on the ring gear bolts?i hope so!!!
and i suppose you all used your years of experience examining the old bearings and gears,looking for damage or wear?
yes,any d!ckhead with a toolkit can physically dismantle and rebuild anything,but there is a lot more to building diffs than just undoing a few bolts and slipping a locker in.
if you can't answer all of these questions then you should not get on this forum and tell others that its so easy to fit them yourself,because you are clueless.

So how do YOU check the preload on the carrier bearings?

Any dickhead with a puta can post on the internet

2 mates ran them for a long time, we set one up in a lux, when he switched to a 9" rear, he bought another LOKKA to suit, the other was an MQ shorty with chev and 36" simex, they are great for the price and I'd run one in the rear any day, I wouldn;t put on in the front, as others have noticed, cross slopes when locked are a pain

dad runs one in the front, he loves it

Ive had them and put lots of miles on them.
The 1st was in the front of a GQ.
It did work great and improved the vehicles ability greatly.

I removed it at the time due to the following issues, some were on the dangerous side.

1. When traversing real slippery tracks it wanted to run off the road on corners.
2. Driving down steep terrain with sharp turns it just wouldnt (turn).
No way you want to get out, unlock a hub, back up, turn if possible, lock hub, off you go again.
3. When driving in convoy along main windy mountain roads (where being in 4wd is an advantage on gravelly rds) it would steer with the throttle badly, ie, on throttle OUT hard turn in, relax throttle, IN run wide.
Just made it too uncertain to remain safe. I could of put in 2wd but then lost the advantage 4wd gives and I wasnt driving a commodore.

I believe if money is a real issue AND you drive on bitumen to your favourite track that runs uphill only covered in loose rocks/ruts then OK.
If you drive around and come to a slippery corner whilst driving briskly... Good Luck too you!

I saved and waited for an Airlocker and fitted that.

Very similar effects were noticed on the rear of another vehicle too. Push on in slippery conditions just didnt do it for me, esp when you were fighting a hard bit and it just ploughed on.

Each to their own but.. Just my take on it. A lot easier to just pop a switch to select driving conditions.

bazzle wrote:Ive had them and put lots of miles on them.
The 1st was in the front of a GQ.
It did work great and improved the vehicles ability greatly.

I removed it at the time due to the following issues, some were on the dangerous side.

1. When traversing real slippery tracks it wanted to run off the road on corners.
2. Driving down steep terrain with sharp turns it just wouldnt (turn).
No way you want to get out, unlock a hub, back up, turn if possible, lock hub, off you go again.
3. When driving in convoy along main windy mountain roads (where being in 4wd is an advantage on gravelly rds) it would steer with the throttle badly, ie, on throttle OUT hard turn in, relax throttle, IN run wide.
Just made it too uncertain to remain safe. I could of put in 2wd but then lost the advantage 4wd gives and I wasnt driving a commodore.

I believe if money is a real issue AND you drive on bitumen to your favourite track that runs uphill only covered in loose rocks/ruts then OK.
If you drive around and come to a slippery corner whilst driving briskly... Good Luck too you!

I saved and waited for an Airlocker and fitted that.

Very similar effects were noticed on the rear of another vehicle too. Push on in slippery conditions just didnt do it for me, esp when you were fighting a hard bit and it just ploughed on.

Each to their own but.. Just my take on it. A lot easier to just pop a switch to select driving conditions.

Just curious, did you ever run it with just one hub locked (on the gravel roads etc)??

I'm a big fan of 4wd on almost ANY unsealed roads, and find having one hub unlocked makes the world of difference.

Coxy

i used to do that trick and found it put too much strain on that one cv and i had a couple of breakages because of it, plus its a pain to keep getting out and locking that hub. now with an airlocker i've had no cv dramas.

Twin sticks would be a benifit with a front auto locker

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

4x4 guy wrote:so to all the internet mechanical experts out there that think building diffs is easy,answer this.
how did you setup and check that you had correct preload on the carrier bearings?
did you bother to measure the backlash with a dial indicator and how did you adjust it?
did you torque up the bearing cap bolts and ring gear bolts with an accurate torque wrench?
if so what are the specs?
did you use the correct locktite on the ring gear bolts?i hope so!!!
and i suppose you all used your years of experience examining the old bearings and gears,looking for damage or wear?
yes,any d!ckhead with a toolkit can physically dismantle and rebuild anything,but there is a lot more to building diffs than just undoing a few bolts and slipping a locker in.
if you can't answer all of these questions then you should not get on this forum and tell others that its so easy to fit them yourself,because you are clueless.

You're a nutter.
Setting up a new centre is challenging - yep - all teh above I pay for.

Lokka doesn't need any of the above set - go read the manual. It's a dream to install, any idiot could do it.

Paul

That depends on the centre .. some (with a full case) do need to be completely dissasembled to install a locker .. Sierra diff springs to mind.

As long as your measurements come within the tolerances provided in the installation manual, you'll be right. They're pretty generous tolerances anyway.

does any one know the difference between the lokka, lockrite and detroit and wats better, air is out of the question

SIMMO84 wrote:does any one know the difference between the lokka, lockrite and detroit and wats better, air is out of the question

if the "detroit" is a full replacement centre, i.e. the "soflocker", then it is much smoother engaging and disengaging due to clutchpacks and ramped gears etc.

they are much more expensive than the "lunchbox" locker.

the lokka and lockright are the same, except for branding. i've been told by some that lokka's are tuffer than lockrights, and i've been told lockrights are tuffer than lokka's. i think they're pretty much the same.

bad_religion_au wrote:

SIMMO84 wrote:does any one know the difference between the lokka, lockrite and detroit and wats better, air is out of the question

if the "detroit" is a full replacement centre, i.e. the "soflocker", then it is much smoother engaging and disengaging due to clutchpacks and ramped gears etc.

they are much more expensive than the "lunchbox" locker.

the lokka and lockright are the same, except for branding. i've been told by some that lokka's are tuffer than lockrights, and i've been told lockrights are tuffer than lokka's. i think they're pretty much the same.

thats wat i wanted to hear

4x4 guy wrote:so to all the internet mechanical experts out there that think building diffs is easy,answer this.
how did you setup and check that you had correct preload on the carrier bearings?
did you bother to measure the backlash with a dial indicator and how did you adjust it?
did you torque up the bearing cap bolts and ring gear bolts with an accurate torque wrench?
if so what are the specs?
did you use the correct locktite on the ring gear bolts?i hope so!!!
and i suppose you all used your years of experience examining the old bearings and gears,looking for damage or wear?
yes,any d!ckhead with a toolkit can physically dismantle and rebuild anything,but there is a lot more to building diffs than just undoing a few bolts and slipping a locker in.
if you can't answer all of these questions then you should not get on this forum and tell others that its so easy to fit them yourself,because you are clueless.

In Landcruiser rear diffs you only have to remove the spider gears , pins,etc and fit the Lockright bits inside the centre. NO need to touch any bearings at all.

On the later Cruisers(high pinion front diffs)you must remove the crown wheel and bearings to fit the bits in the centre.

SIMMO84 wrote:does any one know the difference between the lokka, lockrite and detroit and wats better, air is out of the question

The original "replacement of spider gears" type auto diff lock is the Lockright-designed and manufactured by Powertrax. It was originally distributed in Australia by 4WD Systems-Adelaide in the early to late 90's. Also available at that time was a mechanical diff lock by Detroit, which everybody knew as the Detroit Locker. In 1998 4WD Systems was canned by Powertrax as the Australian distributor of Lockright due to being poor payers and conducting some dodgey business practices. However, by this time in the US Detroit had basically come up with their own version of the Lockright which was known as the EZ Locker and in Australia 4WD Systems had copied all of the Lockright auto lockers and created the Lokka name. 4WD Systems also used the principle design to come up with versions for vehicles that Powertrax hadn't yet designed or manufactured such as Pajero, Triton etc. Though initially 4WD Systems still packaged their copied versions in Lockright packaging and passed off their Lokka as being a Lockright.

In the US, Detroit and Powertrax did go to court over the patent aspect of the auto locker because Detroit had essentially copied the Lockright. I don't know the exact outcome from the courts on the dispute but Detroit are still producing an auto locker.

In recent times, Richmond (as in Richmond Gears) took over the Powertrax business and Lockright is now distributed here by BBMotorsports, though TJM was the distributor for a while. In Australia today all three are still on the market. In my experience the Lokka is a very cheap and nasty copy of the Lockright. The EZ locker is a good product but still not as good as the original Lockright. In all vehicles bar a Sierra, the Lockright is the best performer of all three units. In a Sierra the EZ Locker works the best out of the three. In the front of Patrol, the Lockright is bloody good. If you're talking any diff lock, I think it's hard to pass an Air Locker.