Outer Limits 4x4 Board

RockHopper wrote:

GRPABT1 wrote:
I have the same spec rims and no rubbage. tis the pristine firewall that is the problem.

Move the diff I say, this wil help in more ways than one.

Same spec as what?? Mine or what Steve recommended.

Same as yours 15X8 -24 cept mine are speedy.

What Steve said about moving the rubbage from firewall to the front is something to think about, my setup is shackle reversal so I don't compress forward like you do.

my shocks started rubbing on the bumpstop plate when I moved my axle 25mm forward hmmmm mabe 22 mm would have been better

I did mine 25mm.
Alot of people i guess do 22mm?

Mine are commo shocks, the covers dont hit..But alot depends on size of shocks etc...Big bore=no good..

My experimenting is normally.... Have a good thorough close look, Modify thing what i wanted too, Go oh fark forgot that , oh well cut off. Done..

I've got calmini bootom shock mounts/Ubolt plates in the front but I managed to space the shock but a bit with washers when I moved my diff forward.

Did moving your diff forward affect any of the steering linkages at all?
Made up a template I can use today to drill the holes. Just gotta find some time to do it

A template?

Just mark the centre line that the hole is in, Measure say the 22mm back.

Centre punch and drill!

Probably if using a hand drill, Drill a pilot hole 1st(5mm), makes life alittle easier.

Also the linkages should be fine

depending on how far you move the diff, the links might be close. bumpstop spacing will prevent them from touching though.

Steve.

BlueSuzy wrote:A template?

After that f@#$ up I called a ruf for my first front suspension, I decided to take no chances and make up a template. I've never ever made any mistakes like my last one when when drilling holes, but after I measured and drilled the holes for my ruf I realised one side was out compared to the other. Don't know how I did it, but I did. Once that was all sorted, realised my rear springs that I put up front were shagged, and is why I've gone with OME fronts instead.

Problem fixed. I got home from work today and the missus let me play with the car Disconnected shocks and dropped springs, used template to drill out new holes, had it all done in a little over an hour. Took the car to the same tree stump that is in the photo I posted, and drove it all the way to the top. The shock was fully compressed and I could still get my open hand in between the tyre and the gaurd. Nearby there's a very steep causeway that I drove down and up again, and again, the tyres got nowhere near scrubbing. All I have to sort out now is a 25mm tailshaft spacer, some longer brake lines and some bumpstop extensions. With the shock fully compressed, there is still 3/4" - 1" of daylight between the bumpstop and the diff so I was thinking of putting about a 1 1/2" - 2" bumpstop extension in.
Thanx for the advice guys

www.locktup4x4.com.au for tailshaft spacers

GRPABT1 wrote:www.locktup4x4.com.au for tailshaft spacers

Yep. Priced them last night and found them to be the cheapest.

RockHopper wrote:... the car is in really good nick and am trying to keep it that way (almost cried when I knocked the seams flat).

:pats rockhopper on back:

now now... let it all out... you'll feel much better once you have caved in your rear quarter panels and front guards.

google acme adapters you can almost get two drive shaft spacers for that price

tanshi wrote:google acme adapters you can almost get two drive shaft spacers for that price

what price?

greg wrote: :pats rockhopper on back:

now now... let it all out... you'll feel much better once you have caved in your rear quarter panels and front guards.

I can handle it if I damage it driving, but not if I have to purposely damage it to fit something. Just a bit bodge in my opinion.

RockHopper wrote:

tanshi wrote:google acme adapters you can almost get two drive shaft spacers for that price

what price?

From acme website:-

"Driveshaft Spacers (Front and rear driveshaft) – Samurai, Sidekick & Geo Tracker
Spacer: Single, Red: $31.99 "

That is an american website so I assume that price is in US dollars and doesn't include any postage.

Locktup is way cheaper.

RockHopper wrote:

greg wrote: :pats rockhopper on back:

now now... let it all out... you'll feel much better once you have caved in your rear quarter panels and front guards.

I can handle it if I damage it driving, but not if I have to purposely damage it to fit something. Just a bit bodge in my opinion.

I'm not having a go at you at all Rockhopper - you're build is pretty much on track, but that's the same attitude that sees suzuki's lifted 7" or more to run a 32" tyre.

There's not a car that's ever been made you can fit a 5" over stock tyre on without working the guards somewhere, with only 4" of total lift.

You might get away with it - but I'd bet you'll end up with a little bit of guard work.

Steve.

@ GRPABT1. That's what I thought.

@ Gwagensteve. I know where you are coming from, but having been a little naive with Suzuki's (as I've always had Patrols) I got the impression from reading numerous threads that 31's was as easy as a bodylift and springlift. When I got my wheels and tyres home and compared them to what was already on the car I realised it was not going to be that simple. Had I known then what I know now, I probably would have gone a smaller tyre. Having said that, by moving my diff forward 22mm's made a huge amount of differance. Not only do the tyres not scrub anymore, but the car drives as good as, if not better than it did on stock tyres and suspension. I couldn't be happier with it. Now I just have to sort out the gearing.

RockHopper wrote: I got the impression from reading numerous threads that 31's was as easy as a bodylift and springlift.

It is - with 7" rims with 4"+ of backspacing. We've had cars in the club with the 31's with no suspension lift at all, just a 2" BL.

As discussed, it's your 8" -24 rims (So 3" of Backspacing) that's caused the problem.

If the axle relocation has done it, great.

Steve.

my bad, they have gone up alot. when i got mine 6 months ago they were only 20 each and 5 postage

I noticed the much better ride with moving my front diff forward too. Can't wait to move the rear backwards.

RockHopper wrote:

greg wrote: :pats rockhopper on back:

now now... let it all out... you'll feel much better once you have caved in your rear quarter panels and front guards.

I can handle it if I damage it driving, but not if I have to purposely damage it to fit something. Just a bit bodge in my opinion.

Fear not grass hopper... that phase will pass.

I think the phases are:

1. buys car thinking it is in good condition
2. resists permanantly modifying car thinking if they ever sell they will get back money
3. makes modifications thinking that if they ever sell they will get back money they bought car for plus modifications cost
4. realises they have a car that is now worth more as spare parts than as a car
5. modifies and dents car freely knowing the money is lost so they might as well enjoy it.

You appear to still be at phase 2... my suggestion - drive you car onto its side - then you can quick step to phase 5 where all the fun happens

personally I would rather modify the gaurds, and make a mess of them then detroy my shiny new tires. That said my suzi isnt exactly a pristine example. Im running 31" inch tyres with 3inch lift, springs +shackles. no bumpstop spacing. plenty of hammering. they do rub and cut the tyres up on the odd occasion when it gets really crosd up, ie a wash out. Im not to worried though cause they are only retreads. eventually plan on 33" without a body lift. however ruf bumpstops and substantial gaurdwork would be required.

Muppet man if you ever want a hand on your zook i'm only in Bentleigh, more than happy to bring over the grinder and have a muck around.

I should be working on my own car but its out near gembrook (storage issues) so I can only work on it during the weekends.