Outer Limits 4x4 Board

murcod wrote:Bosch make a set to suit part number B4355i; or if you want the best look here:
http://www.magnecor.com.au/download/lea ... 0index.pdf (Be prepared to pay lots of money though!)

Rang them... the new number is 02 9897 3777.

7mm - $130.00
8mm - $135.00



I personally got a set of Magnum performance leads for $80.00 from a local Auto 1 shop. Work a treat.

Gettin' the cats out of the gearbox tomorrow as well as a service/lube and some new brake shoes... gonna go like a bat outta hell on Saturday!!!!

BRING IT ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hmmmm.... cheaper than I thought they'd be. Magnecor is supposed to be the best, so that's not too bad a price.

Mrt leads are the best available according to their old catalog, I wouldn't know. I've had on for about 2 years and the feroza hasn't skipped a beat. I've found that MRT were OK to deal with and their product of high quality, whereas Murcod obviously has issues with them?
As I said I have a perfectly good set of feroza leads which can be sent COD if required.

Thanks so much for the help everyone, appreciate it!!! Hey...I got my new lead on today cost me $15. from toyota and she's running puurrfect again.... I am so glad it's running again...like a kid with a new toy.

I sent a friend down who knows the guys in there and he made a deal for me...............
So now all up it has cost me $465.
Must be a girl thing...all this suffering and pain..

Heath I will be ready for the trip on Sat.......

Hey Paul lets drag! HAHA YA dont stand a chance....I will be the fastest and the bravest and the cutest!!!!!!!!!! just let me take the seats out and the roof off WHOhooo! make it a $10. bet !

Go FEROG hehehehe..

Dave, I will replace all leads when I have finished my snork...priorities..hehe caus now I have a hole and no snorkle...it would have been done if the car didnt die...oh well, I might take JimmyL up on that offer!!! but let me organize the snork!!! Cool, thanks

Jimmy L wrote:Mrt leads are the best available according to their old catalog, I wouldn't know. I've had on for about 2 years and the feroza hasn't skipped a beat. I've found that MRT were OK to deal with and their product of high quality, whereas Murcod obviously has issues with them?
As I said I have a perfectly good set of feroza leads which can be sent COD if required.

Jimmy, I think you'll find MRT sell Magnecor. I bought a set of leads off them for my old Charade (fitted with a Jap import motor that MRT knew about....) anyway the leads didn't fit and I had to send them back.

MRT would probably be marking up the leads again over the price direct from Magnecor(?) Their prices are not usually cheap.

A few people have had problems with MRT's Feroza extractors too, due to poor quality welding.

No worries matey, your proberly right. Come to think of it those leads were quite pricey.

murcod wrote:Hey Em!

Go to this link and look at the third bottom alternator :

http://www.aea.com.au/shopping/index.ht ... Denso.html

Try contacting them for a price- they may even be able to supply a more powerful alternator that will bolt straight on.

If anyone is wondering the nippon denso alternator -ALT6290- is $259.00 frieght extra.

That seems like a very good price- is it on an exchange basis, or is it a brand new alternator?

I sent a quote for a brand new one...I dont recall it saying for exchange, but i might be wrong.

Hey Murcod,

What is your problem with MRT ??

I have dealt with them for nearly 10 years with both my Feroza & my Charade & have always found their prices to be competitive, their products to work well & be of good design & with the only problem I did have they did everything they could to help me out.

For a long time they were one of the few companies out their who actually send "yep, we make parts for them" instead of "Daihats-WHO ??"
Their parts actually had a bit of thought go into the engineering - like adding a Flex-Joint into their Extractor design.

MRT are NOT ripoff merchants - they are a decent family owned Aussie Business.

Please note: I have connection with MRT other than being a satisfied customer - feel free to buy with confidence from them.

Later, Mike H.

Hi Ferog,

Actually leads are one of the few parts where I would recommend going genuine. They are not bad in price & seem to be the only ones that last & also the only ones that the rubber seal at the top of the engine seems to seal properly. My mechanic has seen a lot of problems with Daihatsus over the years & after trying numerous different plugs will only install genuine Daihatsu ones now.
The aftermarket leads themselves seem OK but the plug section that goes through the cylinder head is the weak part, they always seem to break down quicker than the genuine ones - usually a pin hole through the side that shorts with the metal shroud in the head.
Another trick I have found that works is to smear a little Silastic around the rubber boot at the top of the engine & then press them on - then a little around the outside edge - this works really well in keeping moisture out of the spark plug chamber - & is also easy to remove when you need to get them off.

Just my $0.02 - Mike H.

MJHsurfin wrote:Please note: I have connection with MRT other than being a satisfied customer - feel free to buy with confidence from them.

Not to interfere but did you mean you DON'T have connection...?

Just sounds like thats what you mean to say... but maybe I'm seeing things...

MJHsurfin wrote:Hey Murcod,

What is your problem with MRT ??

Once again, we agree to disagree. Glad you're happy with their service though.

There were some pics posted a while back of the welding on their extractors- it went a long way to explain why some people in the USA have had holes develop in them. Their Feroza extractor price is good, but there's not much point buying them if the quality isn't up to scratch...

I also tried to buy a disc brake rear end for a G11 Charade off them a few years ago (it was listed in their catalogue) only to be told they've never done one and couldn't supply it- yet they had it listed for sale!? How many other parts in their catalogue are like this?

I rang them asking tech questions on a Charade engine conversion and discovered they knew stuff all about it- parts they said wouldn't work together did etc.

I always found their parts for Charade GTti engines expensive. Their GTti ignition leads wouldn't fit on my GTti engine........

Croz wrote:

MJHsurfin wrote:Please note: I have connection with MRT other than being a satisfied customer - feel free to buy with confidence from them.

Not to interfere but did you mean you DON'T have connection...?

Just sounds like thats what you mean to say... but maybe I'm seeing things...

Umm.....yeah, that's what I meant It is kinda hard to type these days with a 6 month old trying to grab your fingers as you tap the keyboard Thanks for picking that up Croz.....

Just to recap .....I Have NO connection with MRT.....

Later....Mike H.

G'Day David,

I don't think of it as disagree......more like "reach the same destination by different roads" Be pretty boring around here if we all did agree though wouldn't it

Sorry to hear you had hassles with them....without making excuses for them I think they did have trouble keeping up with demand early on - they were trying to run a full time Rally Team & a Performance Shop at the same time with minimal staff. It really did depend "who" you spoke to at the time as to how good your info was. The mechanics & tech guys were always pretty cluey.....as usual, the sales guy was...well.....a sales guy Was pretty convenient for me to just "drop in" & talk to the Head Mechanic as well.

I was equally surprised to hear the US guys Extractor problems. It was really rare from the Aussie buyers. Notice also that the US guys have a lot more problems with cracked stock manifolds than us as well. I put it down to a few things. The extreme cold weather these guys get - bad snow & temps well below freezing. Combine this with the extremely high extractor temps & the metal fatigue would be a lot higher. Also the use of salt on the roads over there can cause corrosion a lot quicker....& any sort of rustproofing is tough enough with high temp items - add salt & water.....
I didn't run the MRT Extractors on mine.....I didn't know about them when I bought the Genies & Sports Exhaust. After the whole sports exhaust fell apart on the 1st Outback trip I did ( lasted exactly 8 months in total ) the only thing that survived were the Extractors. MRT fitted a Flex Joint, High Flow Cat, & their Sports Exhaust. Very solid & well designed - lasted another 5+ years of everything I could throw at it.
At 100k km when I needed the Timing Belt down I decided to put one of their Camshafts in at the same time. They didn't have one in stock, but as my Feroza was sitting in the mechanics with the engine in bits I needed it ASAP - they had one made up & at my mechanics in under 24 hours - pretty good service if you ask me.....

Obviously we both had different experiences.......as with everything in life, "Your milage may vary"

Later - Mike H.

A lot of MRT's stuff AFAIK isn't actually made by them. Their leads are (or were) made by Magnecor; the Feroza cams are available from Ivan Tighe Cams and are no doubt the same.... Unifilter will sell you the same air filter to fit..... Their are at least six companies here in Oz that make extractors to fit...

It's all just a matter of finding the original supplier and cutting out the middle guy.

As you said it's a lot easier when you can call in at their workshop- it's a PITA ( and expensive ) when you buy stuff via mail and it won't fit!

ferog wrote:Damn petrol engines.. I should trade it in and get a diesel

thats right and it should also be a toyota.....

XXXL80 wrote:

ferog wrote:Damn petrol engines.. I should trade it in and get a diesel

thats right and it should also be a toyota.....

A Toyota Diesel with a Turbo !! mated to an Auto Box as well

[It's all just a matter of finding the original supplier and cutting out the middle guy.
[/quote]

Sometimes that works....sometimes not. Often the price the original supplier sells it to the public for is actually more expensive than the price they sell it to their distributers for + the distributers mark up
Other times, the original Supplier sells the "generic" product to the public, but the one the Distributer sells is a custom model ONLY supplied to the Distributer under licence. UniFilter is one - the Rampod MRT sell is basically identcal to the generic Unifilter one - but the model specific brackets etc are made seperately for MRT.
This applies to ANY supplier & any distributer - not just MRT. For example: OME shocks are not made by ARB - they are made by Monroe for ARB. Sure you can by a "Monroe" shock that is cheaper.....but they are NOT the same even though they came from the same supplier.

MRT don't actually "make" anything: they are the Performance arm of Middleton Rally Team. They used to run the Daihatsu Rally Team hence their expertise in the Daihatsu range - & their parts & designs were outsourced from various different companies. They haven't done any new Daihatsu stuff for years now as they are heavily into WRX's now....

It is great for you new Daihatsu people that you now have such great choice - ONLY supplier of Extractors when I was looking in 1995 was Genie - then MRT. That was it. Lap it up.....choice is a great thing

Lesson to be learned from this: RESEARCH !! When you are looking for anything it pays to shop around ALL the suppliers & the product they are suppling - CHEAPER is NOT ALWAYS BEST. What you get for your dollars is.

Later - Mike H.

MJHsurfin wrote:

XXXL80 wrote:

ferog wrote:Damn petrol engines.. I should trade it in and get a diesel

thats right and it should also be a toyota.....

A Toyota Diesel with a Turbo !! mated to an Auto Box as well

autos are for fags

MJHsurfin wrote:Sometimes that works....sometimes not. Often the price the original supplier sells it to the public for is actually more expensive than the price they sell it to their distributers for + the distributers mark up

This is true. I can names things that the company i work for manufacters that are cheaper to buy at K-Mart then it is to buy directly of us. General public are not major business, so price reflects that because of the small turnover.

MJHsurfin wrote:

XXXL80 wrote:

ferog wrote:Damn petrol engines.. I should trade it in and get a diesel

thats right and it should also be a toyota.....

A Toyota Diesel with a Turbo !! mated to an Auto Box as well

Sounds good but not auto...

ferog wrote:

MJHsurfin wrote:

XXXL80 wrote:

ferog wrote:Damn petrol engines.. I should trade it in and get a diesel

thats right and it should also be a toyota.....

A Toyota Diesel with a Turbo !! mated to an Auto Box as well

Sounds good but not auto...

Believe me people - once you go Auto in a 4wd - you NEVER go back
I used to think the same....but now
Auto does EVERYTHING better except really steep decents - & then this can be fixed with gearing as well.....

Later - Mike H.

i'm not so sure mike..... i've wheeled with both autos and manuals and i prefer manuals to autos... more control... i can decide when i want to spin my wheels.. i decide how much toqrue is applied.... etc etc etc.... its alot more control.... and it shows you have skills!

I have to agree with Mike here, Autos are superior over a number of terrians especially where momemtum is required. An automatic allows constant power to be delivered to the wheels and you don't have the lag between changing gears. This isn't too much a problem for light vehicles such as a feroza but I've seen hiluxs and pajeros bury the diff through loss of momentum.
In the old days Autos consumed up to 30% more fuel and were very sluggish poor performers off-road. Of course you still have purists who swear by a manual and ultimately it comes down to personal choice. However, once you drive a automatic in soft sand you won't want to go back to a manual, guarenteed.

Cheers

well the new altenator has lasted 5 years.... but on monday it ground me to a halt... not sure 100% if it's the altenator itself or a bolt that has snapped. but either way the belt has half come off one of the pullys and that pully has broken off it's bolt that holds it on. all good fun while going 100k's up the highway!
but atleast it wasnt out in the bush..

go to mechanic for a real diag on thursday.

Do it yourself.

It's a bit of a shitty job as you have to lean over into the engine bay.... worse if you have any half-serious lift, but easy enough to do in an afternoon.

-Drain radiator

-Remove top hose

-Remove radiator shroud

-Slacken off adjuster and unbolt power steering pump and push to one side

-Disconnect wiring from alternator

-Slacken adjuster, then unbolt alternator

-Reverse process to re-assemble.



To get to the radiator drain plug, remove the front bash plate.

yeah it's not so much just putting the belt back on, i'd for sure give that a go.
but it's a snapped bolt and a broken pully that i a) dont have the tools. and b) the skilz to fix.
thats why it's now sitting out the front of the local mech... hopefully some bastage steals it and writes it off...worth more insurance right now lol.

Isn't that the power steering pump that's got the broken mount bolt (with the tie strap holding it?); and is that pulley just sitting there jammed next to it???