Outer Limits 4x4 Board

GRPABT1 wrote:I find it funny that all the americans are fitting 36" splus tyres on SPOA and people here feel the need to do it to fit 33's...

I don't like wet feet, it's wet in tassie also. I still have rub marks on the inside of the gard.... so i could have more up travel out of my setup, but I'm not lifting it any higher! still can't understand why ppl can't see something as a good thing if they haven't dun it lol.. there are spua taller then mine, other thing is mine rides nice with flat pack leafs

Do it with wide track diff... if u don't like it, id go back to spua an sell the spoa diff's.

Adam

And the high steer, and the driveshafts, and the brakelines, and the bumpstops, and the shocks......

I've put two SPOA cars back to SPUA and it's a heap of work. That might be why people want to go coil after they've given up on SPOA.

Steve.

i used standard shocks, i use standard leafs SPOA with the SPUA pads still on welded on the bottem incase of mr plod, it drives like it used to, flexes better as for extendard lines, being drums all around hilux standard fronts fit in perfect front and rear, $15 for 3 from the wreckers, i bought my diffs already done, but i was going to do it and it would have worked out at about $50 worth of steal and $100 of lazer cutting and a carton of beer for my mate who is a tickted welder to put it together, SPOA is a good convert!!!!

just lux diffs have bigger diffs, witch means bigger tiers to get the same clearence, rember zook 1ltr diffs have the same clearence on 31's as a lux have on 35's.

rustyzook wrote:i used standard shocks, i use standard leafs SPOA with the SPUA pads still on welded on the bottem incase of mr plod, it drives like it used to, flexes better as for extendard lines, being drums all around hilux standard fronts fit in perfect front and rear, $15 for 3 from the wreckers, i bought my diffs already done, but i was going to do it and it would have worked out at about $50 worth of steal and $100 of lazer cutting and a carton of beer for my mate who is a tickted welder to put it together, SPOA is a good convert!!!!

just lux diffs have bigger diffs, witch means bigger tiers to get the same clearence, rember zook 1ltr diffs have the same clearence on 31's as a lux have on 35's.

no idea what any of that means. So you have drums but then you mention something about hilux fronts (front what's) and then that you only need 3 of them (can't think of anything that you would need only 3 of on a 4wd) then you mention that the diffs have both spua and spoa diff pads but then say they are hilux ones which never came out as spua.

So as you can see clear as mud

Umm... Brake hoses !! BTW mud is not a bad thing

oh wrecker brake lines, thats big no no if you ask some


i had spoa rear. worked for what i wanted, lasted about 2 months, i got sick of replacing spring packs and mucking aroun with anti warp bars. end result was a big hole in my diff and a rear coil conversion. flexes like a mofo now. i wish i didnt waste my time with spoa on zook diffs, the metal is not strong enough to handle the warp bar.
on a bigger diff (lux) trying to achieve a cheap lift than id say spoa is great. otherwise follow the group an go 2" body, 2" spring, extended shackles, lockers, gears, bar work and drive the shit out of it. stuff will be easy but still challanging.

yeah sorry grumpo it was a quick babble, hilux brake lines you need 3 of, cause my 1ltr diffs are drum all round, and i was trying to say the size of lux diffs compared to zook diffs, you need 35's on lux diffs to get the same amount of diff clearence as 31's on zook 1ltr diffs.

make more sence???

Gwagensteve wrote:And the high steer, and the driveshafts, and the brakelines, and the bumpstops, and the shocks......

I've put two SPOA cars back to SPUA and it's a heap of work. That might be why people want to go coil after they've given up on SPOA.

Steve.

Then he can sell the hole lot drive in drive out, someone will snap that up lol.. if u want the fast an easyer to drive way... spua, longer shackels, ruf and cut stuff to suit. OR u just buy a lux i will next time

Adam

only gen1 runners with the live axle are cool, the rest of the luxs are half gay.

BlueSuzy wrote:
This type of thing will make you "thank fark your not SPOA"!!! Because depends if you or not drive hard, you will end up in this position in a suzuki!!

As said by the other guys in the know, done correctly SPOA axle is good, my Sierra drives and handles fine, I also run a Panhard bar on the front and a rear slap bar like the Snake racing hilux one. Where I find the SPOA better is on approach of 90deg or so ledges and what not, my mates ends up hitting on the springs or front shackles, where as because my springs are sitting up higher I can get a better approach angle. We both go out wheeling together, both crawler gears and locked front back with 31"s and you couldn't pick much advantage of either.

Heres a small youtube vid on hill climbe with a 1.5m or so rock ledge step up at the top. Both SPOA and SPUA get up no troubles..

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=wP8ovrrrbtA

SPOA I could put my arm out the window and touch the ground on this hill climb and it still never tipped over....

verry nice! so whats the panhard? how is it setup?

MUD-PIGSIERRA wrote:

BlueSuzy wrote:
This type of thing will make you "thank fark your not SPOA"!!! Because depends if you or not drive hard, you will end up in this position in a suzuki!!

As said by the other guys in the know, done correctly SPOA axle is good, my Sierra drives and handles fine, I also run a Panhard bar on the front and a rear slap bar like the Snake racing hilux one. Where I find the SPOA better is on approach of 90deg or so ledges and what not, my mates ends up hitting on the springs or front shackles, where as because my springs are sitting up higher I can get a better approach angle. We both go out wheeling together, both crawler gears and locked front back with 31"s and you couldn't pick much advantage of either.

Heres a small youtube vid on hill climbe with a 1.5m or so rock ledge step up at the top. Both SPOA and SPUA get up no troubles..

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=wP8ovrrrbtA

SPOA I could put my arm out the window and touch the ground on this hill climb and it still never tipped over....

Things never look hard on a video.

It didn't look like the blue zooks tyres were bagging all that well though. Hard to tell again in a video.

sierrajim wrote: Things never look hard on a video.

It didn't look like the blue zooks tyres were bagging all that well though. Hard to tell again in a video.

Things never look hard on video and the giant hill you just climbed up always looks like a flat road on camera... Was a late afternoon trip, I think we were still running highway tire pressures or that of 25psi or so.

rustyzook wrote:verry nice! so whats the panhard? how is it setup?

Panhard was taken from a VK Commodore rear diff as well as the bracket that is welded to the VK diff. Two U bolts over the chassis with a plate and brackets for the bolt to go through. The first one I made was only adjustable off the 4by I now have a Pedders sports panhard bar of another VK Im modding to fit which can be adjusted on the 4by which makes things easier. The bracket I chopped of the VK diff was then welded below towards the bottom of my diff. Its worked out quite well as well as the capture washer protects the nut and thread from being bashed around as well. I also have P/S but the steering is nice and turns the wheels instead of pushing the springs around and cause quite a bit of shackle movement which is alot more noticeable in a SPOA vehicle.

so tuffzook why are you selling up now? What sort of diesel are you looking at?

was looking at a bundera today that was turbo diesel and there already on coils and still a shortie

was looking at a bundera today that was turbo diesel and there already on coils and still a shortie

Had a Bundera quite a few years back now, Turbo Diesel LX with all the good gear in it Electric windows and it had Recaro suspension seats in it as well. Keep a good look out for rust in them around the seem joins especially around the back of them.

oh ok cheers anyone interested in the sierra

how much?

i was hoping to get around
$2800

i would but its outta my price range, ill tell me mate he is lookin for one.

awk sweet my number 0411220805 if he wants to give us a ring or txt

tuff_89zook wrote:was looking at a bundera today that was turbo diesel and there already on coils and still a shortie

They aren't a particulalry good 4wd. The suspension design on them is pretty limited in the flex department and you woul dhave to spend a fair bit of $$$ to get them to perform any better than a Sierra

Really it depends on what you want in a 4wd grimbo. As far as towing and long distance comfort are concerned then I am sure the Bundera is a better 4wd than a sierra. But from a zook owners perspective where hardcore tracks are all that matter than year zook pwns a bundy

ok everyone is saying a correctly done SPOA has advantages, but no one has said what is a correctly done SPOA?

That's because it's all been covered before and is in the bible.

ill shut up nos

And whenever people start saying Snake histeer, new brakelines, Bonz-eye springs, bumpstops, shocks, driveshafts etc the peanut gallery pipes up with the "did it in an afternoon with a mate and a slab" and "it flexes unreal, never falls over, drives like a sports car youse lot don't know anything"

So, a correctly done spoa has springs designed for the application, with a higher rate and a military wrap to help control axlewrap.
bumpstops correctly placed
correct length driveshafts and caster angles,
shock absorbers that are the correct length and valving for the new, higher rate springs.
It has commercially made or properly engineered hi steer that does NOT attach to the brake caliper, or use hogged out holes in stuff from 30 year old road cars.

It has new brake lines.

It does not use long, floppy, whacky, folder, scissor or otehr dumb shackles.

There... that's a start.

Now watch for the responses with "mine doesn't have any of that and it will sh1t all over your dumb SPUA victorian junk....

Steve.

GRPABT1 wrote:Really it depends on what you want in a 4wd grimbo. As far as towing and long distance comfort are concerned then I am sure the Bundera is a better 4wd than a sierra. But from a zook owners perspective where hardcore tracks are all that matter than year zook pwns a bundy

well at the start of this thread you were saying you wanted a 4wd to tackle hard core tracks, hence the SPOA questions.

If you are now changing direction and wanting a tow and long distance tourer then the Bundera still isn't a good 4wd. They are gutless, slow and uncomfortable. they have a short wheel base and crappy suspension design so will be uncomfortable for long distance driving. If you want comfort then you need a lwb, the further you sit from the axles the more comfortable the ride.

gettting back to the original topic i put new raised front springs in this afternoon and would now agree that u can get good height , flex etc out of spua and best of all they on cost me $50 each side