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Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 7:17 pm
by its aford not a nissan
NutterGQ wrote:
vanbox wrote:
NutterGQ wrote:
vanbox wrote:Where abouts can one find an Air cleaner like that?

Do they have 4in in and 4in out? dual 4in in/single 5in in :twisted:

PAUL
if your willing to pay contact donaldson filtration they specialise in it.
Just looking at their specs and it states that to work out flow rate, its

cfm = HPx2.5

could that be right, it sounds so simple and yet with my future plans i may need something that will flow 1500cfm plus based on those calculations. Air filters to flow that much are HUGE.

cheers

PAUL
not accurate in terms of throttle body\carby you can easily run 500hp on a 6 litre motor with 700-750cfm N/A, the formula to work it out more accurately requires max rpm, VE (volumetric efficency) and CD (cubic displacement)
yeah i went through the same dillema when i was looking for the replacement for the pre filter i was using and i came up with figures of around 1000 cfm :shock: but i took a gamble as the donaldson was 2 1/2 times the size of what i had ,plus i was running a K&N i figured it couldnt be any worse and it would filter better
so i fitted it up and it made a huge difference , before it would start to die out at 3500 rpm and start to billow out black smoke at 4000 rpm , now it pulls hard right through to 5000 rpm , still a bit of smoke from 4500 rpm up but hey , the efficientcy went out the window before 4000 rpm , oh and it hold max boost for longer as well , plus i gained a couple of psi :D , and egts dropped a bit aswell , which means more fuel was added :twisted:

so the bigger air filter combined with the 4 inch snorkle made me a happy chappy

edit; i also utilized the original air filter indicator light ( vacume sensor )which originaly sat under the main air cleaner , it screws strait into the white plastic bung at the outlet of the donaldson :D

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:08 pm
by vanbox
Could you then base consumption (air) on capacity (in litres) combined with its max rpm, then being a 4 stroke divide by 2?

eg: 5L motor to 6000 rpm

5 x 6000
30000

30000/2
15000 Litres per min

530 cu/ft per min?

would that be right? Even if its not, if its more, it wont hurt.

I could have just made a big di*k of myself :oops:

PAUL

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:21 pm
by NutterGQ
vanbox wrote:Could you then base consumption (air) on capacity (in litres) combined with its max rpm, then being a 4 stroke divide by 2?

eg: 5L motor to 6000 rpm

5 x 6000
30000

30000/2
15000 Litres per min

530 cu/ft per min?

would that be right? Even if its not, if its more, it wont hurt.

I could have just made a big di*k of myself :oops:

PAUL

your right but due to most motors not being 100% efficient in N/A form your figure will typically be 20%+- too high, its a good thing though.

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:26 pm
by vanbox
NutterGQ wrote:
vanbox wrote:Could you then base consumption (air) on capacity (in litres) combined with its max rpm, then being a 4 stroke divide by 2?

eg: 5L motor to 6000 rpm

5 x 6000
30000

30000/2
15000 Litres per min

530 cu/ft per min?

would that be right? Even if its not, if its more, it wont hurt.

I could have just made a big di*k of myself :oops:

PAUL

your right but due to most motors not being 100% efficient in N/A form your figure will typically be 20%+- too high, its a good thing though.
okay, but does that figure change dramatically with turbo motors? say there was 100% efficiency (because the more free flow air the better) could there be a method to add boost pressure to the sums i stated above?

Im lost now, but if it was simple, that 530cu/ft multiply by 10psi boost :D (for example only)

PAUL

Posted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:50 pm
by its aford not a nissan
i think 1 atmosphere equals about 15 psi so if you ran 15 psi of boost you double the amount of air flow , 30 psi you triple it etc etc
i worked on a 4.2 at 22psi at 5000 rpm and came up with a filter i had to mount in the back of the car
then i figured most of the time the engine would be at 2200 rpm and at 4 to 6 psi just crusing along the hwy , so the smaller one should do fine , i just mau be loosing a bit of power at high rpm and full boost

Posted: Thu Dec 25, 2008 6:52 pm
by nastytroll
its aford not a nissan wrote:i think 1 atmosphere equals about 15 psi so if you ran 15 psi of boost you double the amount of air flow , 30 psi you triple it etc etc
i worked on a 4.2 at 22psi at 5000 rpm and came up with a filter i had to mount in the back of the car
then i figured most of the time the engine would be at 2200 rpm and at 4 to 6 psi just crusing along the hwy , so the smaller one should do fine , i just mau be loosing a bit of power at high rpm and full boost
1 bar is 14.7psi, and if you compare a standard td42t/zd30 or 60/80 series cruiser filter it will give you a rough varification to your theiry.

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 2:39 pm
by big bundy
pic sof the 2nd batt and cooler piping, the cooler piping is 2.5" mild steel and i used donuts to do the bends, will be done in alloy eventually tho.

can't see big heaps in the pics tho.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Greg

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 5:25 pm
by marin
big bundy wrote:pic sof the 2nd batt

SNIP

Image

SNIP

Greg
Thanks greg, that's almost what I'm wanting to do, except I want to turn it 1/4 of a turn and run 2 batteries there, 1 for second battery linked directly, and 3rd battery through a controller as deep cycle for fridge, stereo etc

Great idea with the hard plastic grommets to go through the floor, might have to ask the sparkies at work, or just raid the sparky container lol

marin

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:24 pm
by nastytroll
marin wrote:
big bundy wrote:pic sof the 2nd batt

SNIP

Image

SNIP

Greg
Thanks greg, that's almost what I'm wanting to do, except I want to turn it 1/4 of a turn and run 2 batteries there, 1 for second battery linked directly, and 3rd battery through a controller as deep cycle for fridge, stereo etc

Great idea with the hard plastic grommets to go through the floor, might have to ask the sparkies at work, or just raid the sparky container lol

marin
They are cable glands and have a rubber innerthat grips the cable, they are cheap as from electrical wholesalers, haymans, ideal, l&h ect.

Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 8:28 pm
by nastytroll
big bundy wrote: Image
This is exactly what i have been looking at doing, does the pipe go staight back through the rad support panel? I will be making a plenum inlet though, but will have the inlet in the same position..

Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 9:52 am
by big bundy
yeah come back up from under the batt tray, its pretty simple once ya start doing it. a chippy can work it out :lol: :lol:

Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:05 am
by nastytroll
awsome, thanks mate.

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:31 am
by DaveS3
Greg,

Whats the diameter of that airbox??

Need a new one, and this would suit but it may be too big.

Cheers
Dave

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:35 pm
by tomahawkracefab
DaveS3 wrote:Greg,

Whats the diameter of that airbox??

Need a new one, and this would suit but it may be too big.

Cheers
Dave
FYI....filter element is F250 7.3 turbo diesel, bolted together for durability, optional inlet and outlet positions and sizes...can do 4" all the way to turbo you have relevant turbo...i dont stick my head up in here much...i have 20 yrs exp as a diesel tech, 5 of that in engineering with a major U.S truck diesel brand...been there and done that with diesel mods...i have very few peers when it comes to tig welding/fabrication, happy to answer any enquiries..time permitting

Image

Image

Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:45 am
by YB.LOW4
looks smick as always tomahawkracefab, good stuff. kieran